The RationaleIn the past I traveled from New Mexico to California by plane and by bus.
Greyhound was a doubtful experience, while traveling by air within the US has turned to be crash course on human rights violations. I was recently awed by the sight of American citizens standing in lines and waiting to be patted or scanned by the new humiliation: L-3 peepers allowing the guards to see below the passengers clothes. Having been called, I would probably have refused. If there are security doors within the planes and air marshals hiding in plainclothes during the flights and metal detectors and mass spectrometry tests before the passengers are allowed to board, then why are the passengers also patted? Why the private parts of some of them are visually scanned? Unless - of course - it answers for the secret desires of the professional, institutional human rights violators working there.
Having traveled extensively on Chinese railroads, I was excited at the chance to compare between the lines.
The RouteAmtrak's Southwest Chief connects Chicago with Los Angeles, passing in the way through Kansas City, Topeka, Dodge City, Raton,
Lamy(Santa Fe), Albuquerque and
Flagstaff.
Why Lamy?By the end of the nineteenth century a dramatic event shaped the future of
Santa Fe; Amtrak decided to skip the city in favor of Albuquerque. Consequently, the last is the biggest city in the state, while
Santa Fe kept its status as the state's capital. Currently a direct railway is being constructed between Santa Fe and Albuquerque - the first Amtrak station south of Lamy.
In an attempt to counterbalance the decision, early in the twentieth century it was decided to create a tourism industry by building Santa Fe mainly of adobe in the Pueblo Revival style. The hamlet of
Lamy - roughly eighteen miles southwest of Santa Fe - houses the nearest Amtrak station to the capital; from there, the Santa Fe Southern Railway brings passengers and cargo to the city. Lamy was the name of Santa Fe's first bishop; the quarry from where the stones for the cathedrakl were taken is next to the Amtrak's station.
In Lamy, I joined Amtrak's Southwest Chief in its way to Los Angeles. The whole line is 2256 miles long in total, while from Lamy to Los Angeles it is 991 miles long.
The NameIn his railway trip from Boston to the Patagonia, Paul Theroux inquires several times regarding the non-existing names of local railways in other countries. I read that book before having visited the US and couldn't understand his preoccupation. Once there, I learned all the main lines have names; the train from Chicago to LA is called the Southwest Chief.
Timing"The train will be late," I commented to the friends who accompanied me. It was an amazing insight, especially so because the train was already five minutes late.
"Don't worry, it will later compensate for that."
"No chance, delays build up," I countered with what turned to be an exact description of the trip.
We left with a delay of eleven minutes and next morning arrived at Los Angeles Union Station fifty-four minutes late.
At Albuquerque's entrance we were delayed for thirty minutes and spent a similar amount of time at its downtown station. The elevator of the dining car got stuck and thus food could not be loaded.
At Fullerton Station in California, we were delayed for almost an hour. A woman in the train had intoxicated herself and a fire-truck was called to take her to a hospital. Strangely enough, the steward looked at me with horror when I inquired why isn't she allowed to wait for the improvised ambulance at Amtrak's offices.
BoardingThe ticketing process turned out being an excruciating experience, and not due to Amtrak's fault. Buying the ticket was a breeze, checking in the luggage took seconds. The problem was the line, or to be more exact the people forming it. Some of them chatted, talked and argued for more than ten minutes with the clerk. They needed to be chaperoned: they were shown time and again how to look at the ticket, the itinerary, the human history of the place in the last thousand years, the wonderful geological formations of the area, fast food cooking techniques and other important survival tips. Just in case.
Daylight Saving TimeNew Mexico is one hour ahead of California; there is no real chance of getting a jetlag here, but the way offers an interesting encounter with a southwestern idiosyncrasy. The railroad from New Mexico to California crosses Arizona, which is a kind of renegade state on issues of Daylight Saving Time. That means that part of the year it keeps in time with Santa Fe, while others with Los Angeles. Appropriate announcements are made during the trip.
Other AnnouncementsThe way between Lamy and Albuquerque crosses several Pueblos - indigenous settlements of the high-desert. One of the attendants kept informing us of the sights along the way through the speakers system. At times the announcements were strange:
"The church would be facing this way," she proclaimed, apparently unaware we couldn't see her hands.
"Diner, diner, how much ice do you need, diner?"; was another anxious message I enjoyed listening to.
The TrainThe train was rather compact. The locomotive was at the front, two sleeper cars followed, the diner car and the lounge marked the center; afterwards another three sitting cars ended the brave formation. The main difference between Amtrak and its
Chinese counterparts was the lounge car, which does not exist in China. Secondary issues were the quality of the surroundings (carpets, comfortable seats) and the space allocated to each passenger, both were better at Amtrak despite the American cars being obviously much older. I felt like having landed in the 1950s.
All cars had two floors. The lower one provided access to the stations, toilets and other facilities, while the upper one was the living space and provided connections between the cars. The lounge car provided seats facing the windows and long windows opening part of the ceiling to sky watching. Wonderful idea and awesome experience.
The FoodFood was available in the dining car and in the lounge. At the lounge car it was in the form of a snack bar at its bottom level. Unlike most of America, the prices here included taxes, saving thus the need to deal with nickels and pennies. However, the choice was mainly of comfort and fast foods. the service did not operate between 10:30PM and 5:30AM.
The dining car was set up as a mid-range restaurant; tables were shared with other passengers. Access was granted through a reservations system, and the stay was limited to thirty minutes. Prices were as of typical restaurants in American cities. The menu included vegetarian, meat and fish dishes. Despite the portions' size being humble the food was of excellent quality.
The ViewsJuly is New Mexico's high desert rainy season. Henceforth, the way was surprisingly green, with low grass filling the space between the scattered bushes and trees. Mesas (table-shaped rock formations) provided interesting views and the Sandia Mountain was especially beautiful.
We crossed Gallup after sunset, the main sights in this New Mexican town were a mosque and extensive mining operations that lighted up the desert's night. We woke up to a Californian morning, thus not much could be appreciated of
Phoenix; however, the sunrise on the downward slopes toward the Pacific Ocean was spectacular.