San Antonio

I enjoy the Riverwalk, and the endless entertainment it provides with restaurants, shopping, bars, and cafes.

The Alamo is very close to the Riverwalk as well. There are open markets (not on the Riverwalk) that provide a great local flavor.

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

If your plan is to stay in a hotel on the Riverwalk, you can walk to attractions, shop, and eat in different places and not run out of places, and use taxi's or hotel shuttles to get to/from the airport.

If you want to see area attractions such as Sea World, Fredriksburg, or New Braunfels, it would probably be practical to rent a car.

La Mansion del Rio Hotel resides partially in The Old St Mary''s College that was built in the 1850''s. La Mansion opened in 1968, for the San Antonio World''s Fair. The interior is Spanish style with mission-style floor tile, arches and columns.

Now, La Mansion has 357 rooms and suites on 7 floors. Rooms either have a courtyard view or a view of the Riverwalk. Either view is nice, but the Riverwalk may be noisy (on ground floor) as the world goes by from the area bars, cafes, restaurants, and shopping (see Riverwalk journal entry).

Rooms have mission-style decor like the common areas, but are comfortable and well appointed. My room had one unpainted brick wall, 3 plastered walls, and a wood-beamed ceiling. The entry to my room was through nice wood French doors. There were 2 phones, and each supported computer modem connections. I had no problems connecting at 33kbps, but be careful...I incurred $85 in long distance charges for about 2 hours connection.

The furniture was modern, the bed comfortable, and the room spotless. Television with cable is included, and there is a mini-bar and coffee maker. The bathroom was clean, and there were plenty of hand and bath towels and washcloths. There were even a couple of bathrobes hanging on the back of the bathroom door.

They have the Las Canarias Restaurant and Bar that have views and even patio seating on the Riverwalk. The bar is great for a quiet drink and private conversation, but may be too tame for some. If so, don''t worry....there are many lively places nearby. I ate breakfast twice here during my stay, and it is a nice quite place to read your morning paper.

They have drinks ($2.50-$8.50) including basic and fancy coffees, juices, and breakfast cocktails. Specialty Breakfasts ($8.50-$12.50) were different variations of traditional breakfast items. Eggs and Omelets ($9-$12) are created by their chef and have definite southwest and Mexican influence. Side Dishes and Cereals are also available.

My first morning there, I had their La Mansion breakfast of 2 eggs, bacon, grapefruit juice, white toast, and coffee. It was fine, but next time, I will see if breakfast is available somewhere else on the Riverwalk. My second morning, I tried their Mesquite Smoked Chicken and Potato Hash. It was great! It was served with 2 eggs. The eggs and has were mixed with onions and jalapenos and topped with salsa.

They have many meeting rooms. I was part of a business meeting of about 70 people, and they accommodated us with no problem.

They have a beautiful courtyard with plants, fountains, chairs, and a heated pool. It was cool enough during my stay to see steam rising from the heated pool in the mornings. Nice place.

This Marriott is adjacent to the Rivercenter Mall (see other journal entry). It is a 25 floor property. Floors 1 through 5 have the lobby, restaurants, bar, fitness center, pool, and meeting facilities, and the guest rooms and suites are on floors 6 through 25.

This Marriott (both Marriotts) are in immediate proximity to the Riverwalk, and all downtown sites.

Rooms are available with rates with or without breakfast in the second floor Garden Restaurant or via room service. We opted for a rate that included breakfast, but changed our minds when we saw that there were 100 people waiting to be seated for breakfast. They really should have separate seating/dining for all their conventioners. After we checked out, we got another unwanted surprise.....parking was an additional $11 a day. The $22 doesn''t bother me as much as not being informed of it.

Aside from those things, the property is nice, and the rooms are fine. You may want to visit during the week to avoid the crowds (at the hotel and the attractions).

The Hilton Palacio Del Rio is a 21 floor hotel in downtown San Antonio at the corner of Alamo and Market Streets. The rear entrances and rooms in the back of the hotel face the San Antonio Riverwalk. You can take elevators down to the Riverwalk and its restaurants, cafes, pubs, and shops.

This Hilton, like many things downtown, was built for the 1968 World''s Fair. The common areas of the hotel are decorated in Spanish/Mexican style decor, including fancy wood floors, and mission style lighting, and lots watercolor paintings and glass crystal.

We got a great room rate of $89 per room per day, including continental breakfast. Watch out for parking. At $23.50 a day (plus tips), valet parking was disproportionately high. Self parking is available for about half the price of valet service.

Guest rooms and suites are decorated in Southwest decor, including stucco walls. All rooms have private balconies that either have views of the Riverwalk or the city. Our 17th floor adjoining rooms facing the front of the hotel had a view of the Rivercenter Mall, the Tower of the Americas (see other journal entries), and the Alamodome (home to San Antonio Spurs basketball)....it also had a view of the huge roof of the Convention Center across the street, so you might do better with a room with a Riverwalk view.

Rooms have either one king bed or two full-size beds, a writing desk and chair, an iron and ironing board, hair dryer and coffee maker. One and Two bedroom suites are available. There is a small outdoor pool and hot tub on the fifth floor.

In the lobby, is the Rincon Allegre bar and lounge, with comfortable furniture, quiet relaxing environment, and views of the Riverwalk. Also in the Hilton is the rowdy Durty Nelly''s Irish pub (no children after 7:30pm), and sing-a-longs, all you can eat peanuts, beer, and food. They also have Tex''s Sports Bar (did not visit) with TV, microbrew, and food.

My favorite is the Ibiza Patio Bar and Restaurant, where you can sit right on the Riverwalk, or inside where it is cool. It is a contemporary southwest bar and restaurant, open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, or you can get just drinks if you like. They have colorful tile mozaic and neon. We went on 2 visits...one for drinks (their margaritas are great) and the other for their breakfast buffet. The buffet was very good and complete, with scrambled eggs (no eggs cooked to order), ranchera sauce, bacon, sausage, potatos and onions, grits, waffles, and lots of breads, fruits, and cereals. They accepted our complementary continental breakfast vouchers and deducted the amount from the price of buffet, making the price of the buffet about $2 a person.

To get to the Hilton Palacio del Rio from Dallas or Austin, take I-35 South, to I-37 South/I-281 South, exit at Commerce Street, and turn left at Losoya, and it turns into Alamo Street.

Rio Rio Cantina is a large, colorful, lively (loud), and very popular bar and eatery on San Antonio's Riverwalk (street entrance is on East Commerce). Inside, is a small bar called the Naked Iguana ("where nobody knows your name, but everyone's willing to learn").

Rio Rio has a Mexican decor, and Mexican/Tex-Mex cuisine, including beef, chicken, seafood, and vegetarian dishes. Appetizers ($7-$15) include nachos (severals ways), quesadillas, flautas, guacamole, and more; Specialty dishes ($10-$16) include chimichangas, enchladas (many ways), and others; Specialty meat dishes ($12-$16) are baby back ribs, fajitas, and more; Seafood dishes ($16-$19) include shrimp and fresh fish; and they also have Combination plates ($11-$12) that mix it all up.

We started with drinks, and some of us had frozen top shelf margaritas, which were outstanding. The rest of my group had beer or soft drinks. Based on the huge plates of food being carried past our table, we skipped the appetizers, and had chips and salsa (Tip: that red sauce on the table is not ketchup!).

We followed with lots of food. I had their Burrito Fajita De Res, which is a huge burrito stuffed with beef fajita meat, refried beans, bell peppers, onions, and cheese, rolled up and covered in their enchilada sauce. As if that weren't enough, it has sides of rice, beans and even a salad. My wife had baby back ribs (she said they had too much BBQ sauce), and another family member had beef fajitas (excellent I'm told).

Rio Rio is as popular as the Riverwalk, so it is crowded and loud. We were seated immediately indoors at peak times on a Saturday night, which was great, because it was too hot (late June) to eat outside, even with a view of the Riverwalk.

If you are more hearty than I when it comes to the heat, Rio Rio has tables outdoors on the Riverwalk, and on a second floor outdoor patio. The Riverwalk makes them very inviting, and very popular indeed. Indoors and outdoors, servers are dressed in traditional Mexican dresses.

Rio Rio is a short walk down the Riverwalk from the Hilton (see other journal entry). From the rear of the Hilton, cross the Riverwalk and turn right....you can't miss it. You will walk pass many restaurants, cantinas, and shops. Have a blast!

I really like the colorful cool decor and art they use. The architecture and layout are neat too.

As with the decor, the menu is contemporary southwest cuisine. The Zuni Grill serves a small breakfast menu and buffet ($5-$8) that is very hearty and good. Lunch and Dinner Appetizers ($4-$10) included soups, nachos, salads, and seafood dishes. Lunch Entrees ($7-$9) included sandwiches, pizzas, and quesadillas. Dinner Entrees ($14-$25) were a wide mix of beef, veal, seafood, and pasta dishes.

I have visited the Zuni Grill numerous times for breakfast, dinner, or just drinks, and the service and food are consistently good. You are always given fresh chips and salsa after you are seated. Order some of their guacamole to make them even better, and try one of the specialty margaritas...they are great.

I also like their Corn Chowder soup, whose presentation (see picture) and flavor were terrific. My dinner entree was an "Angus Rib-eye" steak with a southwest twist, served with grilled potato-onion quesadillas, blue cheese cole slaw, and steak sauce. I didn't care for the unusual cole slaw, but enjoyed my meal overall.

For me, the draw is the neat southwestern colors and art. The setting of Zuni Grill on the Riverwalk is very nice.

Our visit to Mi Tierra was the high point of a recent visit to San Antonio where nothing seemed to go right. We were expecting large crowds and long waits (like the rest of our weekend), so we were very impressed and pleased when we were seated right away at 10am on a Sunday morning....and next to the Mariachi band no less. The crowd soon followed....this place is enormously popular....for good reason.

There are colorful decorations everywhere, including fiesta flags/banners, fiesta lights, pinatas, and more. They have 2 large dining rooms and one smaller one, which had a birthday party going on. There is also outdoor patio seating, but it was a bit cool for that. In the rear dining room, there is a large bar covered in tile mozaic, which is popular in San Antonio.

Although they serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner...in my many visits I have had only breakfast, which is terrific. Breakfast can be had for $5-$7 per person. I enjoy Huevos ala Mexicana, which are scrambled eggs with diced jalapinos, tomatos, and onion, with refried beans, bacon, and tortillas on the side. My wife likes their Muenudo, which is a spicy soup with beef tripe and hominy, also served with tortillas. Our 4-year-old is not as adventurous, and gets scrambled eggs and sausage.

We almost always buy sweets from the bakery on the way out. They have a huge selection of fresh baked goods. Take a number, and while you are waiting for your number to be called, you can decide what goodies to buy.

They also sell numerous souvenir T-shirts, post cards, and small gifts at a small counter.

One of the first things you notice is that there is a FULL SIZE white Cadillac automobile hanging on the outside of the building, on the street entrance.

Not to be outdone, the inside has a FULL SIZE black Cadillac hearse hanging upside down from the ceiling, with video monitors where the windows belong. There is also a large guitar-shaped bar inside.

This location also has an entrance and large patio facing the Riverwalk. In January they have/use space heaters outdoors.

As with other Hard Rock Cafe's, they have lots of Rock memorabilia, in the form of countless guitars, gold records, and outfits or other articles owned/used/worn by Rock stars. They also have a gift shop for the popular logo souvenirs.

They have a large neon sign that warns patrons not to enter carrying nuclear weapons.....I guess you are supposed to check them at the door.

The Riverwalk was designed and constructed in the 1930's to control flooding in downtown San Antonio. It wasn't until several years (decades even) later that businesses stopped using the Riverwalk as their back door, and the potential realized to restore the basement levels of these building at Riverwalk level to become an entertainment area. This potential was first widely realized and showcased during the 1968 World's Fair in San Antonio.

Since the 1970's, the popularity of the Riverwalk has grown, evidenced by the current large number of top hotels and restaurants located on the Riverwalk, and the popular (and large) Rivercenter Mall.

The Riverwalk is decorated for each season....at Christmas with beautiful lights, dyed green for St Patrick’s day, and it is drained each February for some King and Queen of Mud festival (which I have not witnessed).

You can take a boat ride on the San Antonio river. Although it is a very touristy thing to do, it is fun and informative. You will see corners of the Riverwalk that you might not have otherwise found.

The Riverwalk is very accessible from all over downtown. There are over 30 stairs to/from the downtown street level at major downtown intersections (wherever there are bridges for the most part).

I couldn't imagine San Antonio without the Riverwalk. In addition to having all the places to stay, eat, drink, and shop, it is also very beautiful, and is lined with fantastic palm and banana trees, and lots of other flowers and plants.

Admission ($1-$3 based on age) is charged for the long scenic glass elevator ride to the observation deck. However, you can avoid the admission charge by taking the elevator to the lounge (one floor/level below the observation deck) and enjoying the view with a drink and/or appetizer. Then, you are welcome to take the elevator up to the observation deck at no cost.

They also have a restaurant one floor/level below the lounge that is open for lunch and dinner. Our visit was between lunch and dinner and the restaurant was closed. The restaurant is said to rotate in a complete circle about once an hour, but it must not rotate when the restaurant is closed.

The view is fantastic from the lounge, even with all the construction currently downtown. It provides a tremendous vantage point of the Rivercenter Mall, downtown hotels, Hemisfair Park, and the entire area.

Go for the view. The tower is an easy walk from the Rivercenter Mall area.

There are markets indoors and outdoors, selling mostly souvenirs and gifts, in private booths and stands. Food and refreshments are available everywhere. There are also musicians, bands and constumed dancers that are always putting on a show somewhere in the area.

Among its shops is the "oldest pharmacy in San Antonio," which is an apothecary-style relic. Restaurants include Mi Tierra (see other journal entry), La Margarita, and many street vendors, and market stands.

The Market is a short drive from the Rivercenter Mall and nearby Marriotts. There is public (fee) parking around the Market, and many merchants validate parking.

The Yaraguana Boat Cruises ($5.25 for adults and $1 for kids) provide about a 40 minute complete tour of The Riverwalk. The driver (?) provided light narraration that was informative, funny at times, and surprizingly thorough.

They also provide dinner cruises, but it was too cool for that. Plus with all the great restaurants around, they likely provide better options.

Today, The Alamo is much different than in 1836. It is much smaller. In fact, the original Alamo extended well across present-day Alamo Street and Alamo Plaza in front of the Alamo, and beyond present-day Houston Street. There are 11 different buildings/areas to visit today. Most of the indoor areas are considered sacred/shines, and photos are not allowed.

There is a large museum and gift shop that has reproductions and actual relics from the Alamo ruins, such as weapons, medals, uniforms, personal effects, and more. I wasn't impressed with the gift shop, but then I didn't go there to shop.

You can also visit the long narrow barracks, rebuilt from the remains of the original barracks. In the rear, there is a small waterway built where the remnants of the original community irrigation system that served the area were. The waterway now contains colorful fish, that are well-fed by the tourists.

There is also an informative wall of history that provides detailed timelines of the history of The Alamo.

Like other popular tourist destinations in San Antonio, The Alamo receives hoards of tourists on weekends, so be prepared for crowds, or plan to visit during off-peak times. I couldn't believe the number of people and tour buses in the area.

La Villita was developed as a settlement adjacent to the Alamo. After the Alamo was abandoned in the late 1700's (before it became a military fortress), La Villita was a village of huts for Spanish soldiers, which were replaced with adobe style houses after a flood in 1819. La Villita is said to have been fairly large in the 1830's before the fall of the Alamo, and late in the 19th century was home to European immigrants who became became successful business owners in San Antonio. By early in the 20th Century, La Villita declined into a high crime slum area. In 1939, San Antonio Mayor Maury Maverick initiated restoration projects to preserve La Villita.

Today, La Villita is a monument, with historic buildings including adobe structures, early Victorian, and white limestone buildings. In addition to its historical significance and charm, La Villita has many arts and crafts shops and studios where you can purchase art (pottery, glass, paintings, etc), clothing, souvenirs, and jewelry, or dine in casual to very nice (Little Rhine Steak House) restaurants. Additionally, La Villita's nice landscaping and large shade trees provide an escape from the Texas heat.

In addition to the shops and studios, there are public restrooms, and a non-denominational church.

La Villita is located right next to the Hilton (see other journal entry), and can be reached from the street or Riverwalk levels. Walking out the front of the Hilton, turn right (or turn left if exiting to the Riverwalk) and you can't miss it. It is right across Alamo Street from Hemisfair Park and the Tower of the Americas (see other journal entry), where San Antonio hosted the 1968 World's Fair.

As long as you are already at the Riverwalk, why not?

I was amazed. This is one of the best botanical gardens and conservatories I have ever been to. The San Antonio Botanical Garden and Lucile Halsell Conservatory (operated by San Antonio Parks and Recreation Department) are on 33 acres that opened in 1980. The botanical gardens have many native, floral, and exotics gardens, and the conservatory has incredible futuristic glass structures with a tropical lake/pond in the middle of them.

You enter the grounds through the Daniel Sullivan Carriage House, which was built in 1896 (and is now a historical building), and moved from its original downtown location stone-by-stone. There is a small gift shop and a restaurant inside. After our early July visit, the carriage house provided much needed relief from the Texas heat.

The grounds have many fountains and beautiful places to rest, and escape the Texas heat. The 33 acre gardens contain gardens with native plants and landscapes from all over Texas, called the "Walk around Texas". This area has wild flowers, plants and trees native to the Hill Country (Central Texas), an area with plants native to East Texas with a lake, and a southwest Texas garden.

Among the other permanent gardens, is the "Garden for the Blind" to challenge senses of smell and touch, and there is an absolutely perfectly groomed and maintained Japanese Garden with a sparkling clear pond. There are other gardens that are ever-changing.

The gardens looked good to me (a visiting family member is the expert), but the highlight for me was clarly the incredible conservatory with different climate controlled simulations of regions of the world, to feature plants from all over. The glass buildings were futuristic looking. Some were pryamid-shaped, and other larger ones were round/cone shaped. Each building was controlled for different climates, including a tropical house, desert house, palm house, fern room and more.

Most of the conservatories had neat misting machines (watch your cameras) that provided very humid environments to great effect on the awesome plants. In one of the large buildings, they have a walk that is almost like a spiral staircase that provides great vantage points. Between the conservatory buildings is a tropical lake with many water plants, tropical plants, and birds and butterflies everywhere.

The San Antonio Botanical Gardens and Lucille Halsell Conservatory is located at 555 Funston Place in an out-of-the-way neighborhood close to downtown San Antonio. To get there from downtown, take Broadway Street (it turns into Broadway Avenue and back into Broadway Street) north to Funston, and turn right (there will be signs). Their phone number is 210-207-3255.

If you would like a break from the tourist crowds of the Riverwall, Alamo, and other attractions, this place is perfect.

The mall has entire walls of glass facing the Riverwalk.....a very beautiful scene. There are bridges and walkways to a small island in The Riverwalk where dancers put on shows in colorful and beautiful Mexican outfits. Although it is a small inlet of The Riverwalk, the boats (water taxis and tours) go in as part of their route.

Unexpectedly tucked away on the street between the Dillards and Commerce Street parking garage is the obviously historic St Joseph's church, but I did not visit it. It looks like they built the mall right around the church.

Rivercenter Mall is worth a look, even if only to see the colors and hear the music.