San Antonio - A Multi Cultural Walk

Located in the King William District this beautiful Inn was my first choice as soon as I learned that Susan serves dessert with breakfast. Life is too short she told me not to have dessert. You gotta love an attitude like that.

Our room is the Bluebonnet Room with A king size four poster bed carved with wheat, a beautiful antique veneer dresser set, watered silk covered chair we were off to a great start. Our bed is so tall we have a set of stairs to climb up. We chose this room because it has a soaking tub as well as a separate shower, this way I can soak and Al can get a shower. The bathroom is large and very comfortable.

The bedroom has a soft blue wall cover and the bed is set into an alcove that has three windows. There is a ceiling fan and light over the bed as well as lamps on both night stands. We have a Tv with HBO, WIFI and an alarm clock. The bedding was silky and the sheets were soft the pillows were king sized and we each had two. Joe has the Magnolia Room and he was a four poster bed as well with a picture of Robert E Lee displayed prominently behind it but no tub in his bathroom. He however shares access to the second floor veranda and it is a very pretty veranda with wicker furniture.

On the landing outside of our room there is a round table and a desk and computer. There is also a refrigerator with complimentary soft drinks and water and a cabinet filled with games, we however had brought our own dominos with us and this was the ideal place to play.

The parlor and dining room are lovely and done in a Victorian style. There are two fireplaces that are back to back in the dining room and the living room and the warm fire was greatly appreciated when we were there.

We were delighted to find the Mad Hatter Tea room was located right across the street and there are many different restaurant within an easy walk. It is an easy walk to the Riverwalk however to get where the action is takes quite a while. We walked down to La Villita on the Riverwalk and then walk back up Alamo, it was a lot easier if less scenic.



Breakfast on the weekends is served from 9am to 10am. On Saturday morning we had a baked egg dish for the main course, fruit salad, juice, coffee and dessert. On Sunday we had oatmeal and apple pancakes, with fruit salad, juice and coffee and pineapple sherbet. Monday it was chicken and green chili quiche with fruit salad, juice, coffee and I am going to guess on this one gingerbread bread pudding, Susan and John are very warm and friendly hosts and we met three very nice couples at breakfast whom we shared a table with.

What a great name for a tea shop and café. It is every bit as interesting as it’s name would imply. There are three dining areas in this café though the back room was closed when we were there.
The idea is quite simple. You get a menu from one of the employees and find a table. You then decide what you are going to try and go to the cashier and order. If you are having hot tea, then stop by and pick up your cup and saucer. When you food is ready it will be delivered to your table.

We were debating the pros and cons of ordering the high tea and the afternoon tea. Both are $18 for two people. The high tea gives you three types of sandwiches, a scone to share and 2 petit feures. The afternoon tea has cream cheese and smoked salmon sandwiches and cream cheese and cucumber sandwiches , 2 scones and two petit feures. I don’t like salmon and Joe didn’t want to share a scone. Al didn’t want to eat so we twisted his arm.

We decided it was every man for him or her self. Al got the club sandwich, I ordered the cream cheese and cucumber sandwiches from the tea menu and Joe got a cup of pumpkin soup and half of an egg salad sandwich. Joe and I both got a pot of English breakfast tea and we also both ordered the 4 berry cobbler served warm with ice cream.

We went happily back to our table to wait for our feast. It wasn’t long in arriving. First the teas in very different and eclectic pots arrived. Then came Al’s sandwich, I have never seen the like, it was huge, I mean two man huge. Even Al who is a good eater was intimidated by this behemoth. Ham, turkey bacon, tomato lettuce and huge slices of bread and excellent flavor to boot. My sandwich were served crustless with a sliced strawberry in the center of the plate, these were not only pretty but very delicious sandwiches. Joe’s half an egg salad sandwich was also huge but the cup oif soup was normal size.

The four berry cobbler was served in small cups very warm with a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream. It was perfect, not too sweet with loads of berry flavor.

If having tea is not your idea of a good time don’t despair their menu offers plenty of other options. As I have stated the sandwiches certainly are generous, there are salads and burgers and lots of vegetarian choices as well. The dessert case was also loaded with pies and cakes and all sorts of very delicious looking items. They open early in the morning and served breakfast as well. I am almost sorry that we will be getting breakfast at our B&B because I would have liked to try some of the things that they offer here.

What a difference a day makes. We took off on Saturday afternoon from our B&B in the King William section of San Antonio. It was about three blocks to the Riverwalk. It was about 35 degrees and rainy and the walk was a bit slippery. There were ducks swimming up the river and very few people walking. Frankly I was at a loss after at least a half hour to see what it was that makes this such an attraction. We left the walk at La Villita, a historic arts village and spent about an hour checking out all the eclectic shops located there. This is a very interesting place to shop with local artists and crafters intermixed with the more mundane souvenier and tee shirt vendors. I bought some small stained glass pieces to bring home as gifts.

Sunday the weather was in the 60's and the sun was shining. Linda and Harry took us to eat at Casa Rio. It was established in 1946 and was the first restaurant on the River walk. We didn’t realize what a historic location we were visiting. We don’t know much about Mexican food but with Linda Kaye’s help we all ordered delicious meals. The views are amazing and it is really in the center of everything that is going on at the Riverwalk.

When we had finished lunch we went on a river cruise. The boat moved slowly through the canals with a running commentary from the driver. He pointed out the historic locations and gave us some interesting facts about the buildings. We enjoyed every minute especially watching all the people walking, shopping and eating along the banks of the river. You will cruise by a riverside theatre, The Hard Rock Café, A Mall and a whole lot more.

What today seems like the perfect balance of commercial endeavors and natural beauty was a long hard battle that even the Alamo is hard pressed to overshadow. In the early part of the nineteenth century it became apparent after a devastating flood that the River needed to be controlled. How this was accomplished and how this became what it is today is owns a great deal to the foresight and persistence of a group of very dedicated people. It wasn’t until the 1960’s that the River Walk that we know today began to take shape. It is hard to imagine San Antonio without it and yet there were many who fought to have the river built over. San Antonio has done an amazing job of keeping some areas park like and making the rest an area filled with lively entertainment, food and shopping.

Growing up in the fifties, Davy Crockett was a hero we all revered. I think in my mind he will forever look like Fess Parker but that is another story all together. I have always dreamed of being able to visit the Alamo and to actually be here is a dream come true. I think Al summed it up for us when he said he had goose bumps just being here.

Maybe we were lucky that we came on a slightly rainy cool January day because I have read other peoples comments about how commercial it all is and don’t get me wrong there certainly was Ripley’s believe it or not across the Street not to mention a new attraction Davy Crocketts adventure or something like that but on the Alamo side of the street I found it to be reverent and I think everyone who was there felt the same thing, we were walking on hallowed ground.

Having visited the San Jacinto Monument and having learned about the fate of the men at Goliad only makes this a more poignant place to visit. We know what the outcome is going to be and yet we still root for the 189 men who held out for thirteen days again a force of 3000 Mexican soldier. When the end came the mission was over run in under 90 minutes. General Santa Ana’s orders were no quarter so those men who were not dead when they breached the walls were slaughter shortly thereafter. Fourteen woman and children survived and were sent on their way with 2 silver pecos and a blanket and told to spread the word that the rebellion would be crushed. It had the opposite affect that they anticipated. When the Texans heard how they had dismembered and burned the bodies of the brave defenders they were more resolved than ever to gain their independence.

What is left here at the Alamo is a lot of artifacts including two guns , a leather vest, a knife and a lawbook that belonged to Davy Crockett and a silver spoon that belonged to Jim Bowie. In the main hall of the Mission there are flags from all the states where the defenders were born. We had one man Gordon C. Jennings from Ct. There were men from just about every state in the Union, even little Rhode Island. I was surprised at how many were Europeans from England, Ireland, Scotland, Germany, Wales and Denmark. There was John, the freed Slave. The age of the men ranged from 15 to 55 and of the 189 7 were doctors and 6 were lawyers. An interesting group of men. Col. Travis was 26, Jim Bowie was 40 and Davy Crockett was 49.

Beyond the Mission Building there is a very beautiful garden area and also a museum in the long barracks. A video is shown in the long barracks but the last show of the day was just ending when we got there.

This is one of the best things that you can do in San Antonio. It’s free, okay there is a collection but compared to most musical events this is a real bargain. Least you think this is for Catholics only let me point out that when we went among other things I saw a man in line wearing a yarmulka. People of all denominations are welcome but please keep in mind that this is a religious service with music not a concert in a church. The Mass is held at noon and it is best to be here at least a half hour early. If you want to tour the mission then make it an hour.

The Mission of San Jose was known as the Queen of the Missions because even though it is not as old (it was built in 1720) or as famous as the Mission on San Antonio known as the Alamo, it was the largest mission in this area. It was also the strongest with an almost impregnable presidio. It proved its strength against many attacks by the Apache and the Comache. After a rough spell the Federal Government and the San Antonio Conservation Society combined to save and bring it back to its former glory.

We were lucky to have local Igougo guides Linda Kaye and Harry to give us the deluxe tour. We did arrive early and walked the grounds and the buildings before getting into line to enter the church. Be sure to look for the rose window.

The interior of the church is simple adobe. Before Mass begins the priests asked where everyone is from. There were many states represented and even some foreign countries. The church was packed to capacity and beyond, it was definitely standing room only.

The acoustics are very good. The sound of the guitars and horns added an amazing aspect to what was in most other ways a very typical Catholic Mass. There are missals available so that you can follow along. At the end of the Mass the priests asked for people who were celebrating birthdays and anniversaries to stand up and the Congregation clapped. I was very impressed with the way this Mass was handled, it was not at all like the Vienna Choir Boys singing at the Mass in Vienna, here there was no doubt about what the main focus was, the mariachi band just enhanced the experience, they weren’t the experience.

After Mass the Band came out into the courtyard and entertained the crowd for at least a half an hour. A very good time was had by all. We continued to wander around the grounds for a few minutes and then we were given a tour of the other Mission Churches in the area. There is nothing that can compare to having your own personal guides. Thanks Linda Kaye and Harry.

In order to understand this museum you need to understand the woman who created it. Jessie Marion Koogler was a woman born before her time. She was the only child of a Doctor who became wealthy when oil was discovered on his land. Jessie attended the University of Kansas then the art school of the Art Institute of Chicago, it was during this time that she began to use her middle name. In 1917 she fell in love and married the great love of her life Don Denton McNay. Tragically he died in the influenza epidemic of 1918 less than a year after their marriage. Marion married and divorced several times but she always returned to the name McNay and also gave it to the Museum she left which was the ultimate tribute to Don.

In 1926 Marion commissioned a house in San Antonio which she called Sunset Hills. Built in the Spanish Colonial Revival Style it is the home which holds her collection today. Around this same time she became a serious collector of Art, at one time there was even a school of art on the property. The first painting she purchased is entitiled Delfina Flores.

When she died in 1950 she left a collection of over 200 items and it was opened to the public in 1954. She also left an endowment and together with further donations the collection has grown to over 1600 items about 900 of which will be on display at any given time. The McNay is primarily about modern art but you will be amazed by the wonderful medieval items. You walk into recreated rooms that take you to back to the middle ages complete with paneling and furniture and works of Flemish art. There is no guarantee about what will be on display but we saw a Mary Cassatt head of a young girl, Degas,Seura, Pendergast, Homer, Picasso, Klee, Chagall and a monumental Monet of can you guess, lily pads. There is alos a nice collection of Galle vases.

The Interior courtyard, The Blackburn patio is worthy of a tour. The tiles were made especially made for the patio. It is the home to several very beautiful sculptures done in bronze and one in aluminum. It was used as an outdoor artist studio in Mrs. McNay’s day and is still a favorite spot to sketch today.

We began our visit by watching a short orientation film that introduced us to Marion and the museum. Don’t pass on this, it really sets the stage for your visit. The museum is set on two levels but there is an elevator and is wheel chair accessible.

There is free parking in their own parking lot and take the time to walk in the grounds. There are sculptures and even in January the gardens were worth a look. The gift shop as expected was quite well stocked with a variety of eclectic items. Entrance is free but you are strongly encouraged to donate $5 per person.