At $20, plus tax, this ascent needed to be worth it. In the morning it was overcast and I noticed that the top of the tower was disappearing periodically behind low clouds, so we waited for the weather to break, fearing we'd see nothing if we didn't. In the afternoon, the sun came out and we toddled along to the tower for a trip to the top of the world.
The first thing you're confronted with is your choice of options, starting at $20 for your basic trip to the observation deck, a bit more if you want to go up a few more stories to Sky Pod, and options to buy 5-day tickets, which are a good value if you're staying a few days and plan to take in more of these attractions. After checking on the length of the queue (10 minutes at 2pm), we went for the basic observation deck option. We'd heard the Sky Pod wasn't worth the extra money.
These days you get searched whenever you go to attractions like this, as though you were catching a plane, and the CN Tower is no exception. So, we got in line, passed the checks, posed for the customary rip-off photo (which we didn't bother to even look at, never mind buy), and pretty soon were packed into the alarmingly swift (22mph apparently) lift to the observation deck.
I must say that views on a clear day are impressive, and there are a few ways to appreciate them at that level. First is a panorama, where you're hemmed safely in by windows on all sides, but there's also the famous glass floor that you can stand on and look down, which is actually quite hard to force yourself to do. At this level there's also a restaurant that I noted attracts some ropey reviews so we left it alone. Go down a flight of steps and the panorama is open-air, but you're hemmed in by mesh, so your photo-taking is a bit more restricted, but it gives you more of a "feel" for what it's like to be so high.
Anyway, there are great views in all directions, out over the lake and islands, city, etc., and that's about it I suppose. When you're ready to do something else, you stand in line for the next elevator down (every couple of minutes) and you're out directly into the reasonably priced and well-stocked souvenir shop.
The final delight is the elevator operator. In his defence, he must have to say it 200 times a day, but his spectacular mastery of the indifferent closing summary was something I could only wonder at.
Here's the website that gives you all the boring facts and statistics about the tower in two languages.