Mazatlan's Urban Side

Best bets in Mazatlan: walk around the Paseos, take the Stone Island tour, go down to Olas Altas and the Old section of town.

Quick Tips:

Mazatlan has a jillion hotel rooms, most of them cheap.
Unless it's Holy Week (the week before Easter) or Carnival (the week before Fat Tuesday) you don't even need reservations. Best deals are along the Malecon--across the street from the boardwalk and beach, Lots of hotels in the -35 a night range. North in the Golden Zone, hotels on the beach charge five times that much.

Best Way To Get Around:

You can walk around the downtown/Olas Altas. There are buses running frequently between the Golden Zone and downtown for a quarter, right along the beach. Taxis are like . But the cool way to motate is the 'pulmonia'--little open cars with canopies (which is why they're called 'pneumonias') and usually a huge stereo (playing 'Macarena' or 'Mambo #5' or worse). Cheap, airy, fun, dangerous for drunken idiots--they're the perfect vacation transportation.

Well, it's not exactly a hostel, but it's not exactly NOT a hostel. Lots of people think of it as a community, a Robinson Crusoe place on a tropical beach, where life is about as cheap and carefree as it gets. You can camp, or stay in the unique hammock-floored rooms, or just laze around like a cat. Cooking is communal (though there are plenty of restaurants around). You can beachcomb, swim, do arts and crafts, kick back at bonfires, or meditate at the Zen Center next door. This place is an experience you will remember for years. Twin Towers . . . A Tropic Island Of The Mind

In 2002, the old Freeman was reborn as the historic district experienced a renaissance. The round windows allow it to claim a sort of art-deco image, and the rooftop pool bar is an icon of the lifestyle of Olas Altas cove...which WAS Mazatlan back when Lee Marvin, John Wayne, and Jane Fonda romped there.

The painstaking restoration gave the new version the look and feel of modern hotel convenience with a touch of the old days: the old design and colors have been retained: the cheerful blue/white/yellow tile, the lobby dome, even the pattern of the carpet. Glass cases in the lobby display artifacts from the old days: a bronze DC3 clock, blue logo plates, invitations for Carnival and rooftop concerts...subtle accents from a period art that recalls the Cunard Line, PanAmerican Clipper, and Ford Trimotors.

What stands now is solid comfort and service: efficient, clean living just steps away from the museums, clubs, opera house, and narrow old streets of the Historic Downtown. And, of course, the view: a commanding, 360 view of the territory, the downtown, and the wide sweep of ocean. Porches on the West side of the building hang dramatically over the beach, and the continual play of backlit water against rock.

Rates run from around $75 USD for a small but comfy singles with king bed, cable TV, coffee maker, strongbox, air-conditioner, private balcony and enough drawers and closet space for a change, to $130 for a suite with kitchenette, sitting room, and sea view deck. It's not the typical Mexican resort hotel and caters more to Mexican business and tourism than foreigners (though English is spoken). The beach is not just out the door, it's across from a real boardwalk where real residents congregate on the seawall to fish, party, and neck. The beach is there, but secondary to the Mexican city that edges up to it. This isn't exotic third world adventure, but neither is it exactly the Holiday Inn.

There is a "business center" offering free computer/internet use, and room rates include a free buffet breakfast in the lobby café where tables overlook the street and sur (and the bacon&eggs and beans&chiles are served from spherical stainless chafing dishes--more of that Titanic-class decor). But the real payoff is up on the ninth floor, where a spacious bar and rooftop pool with lounging deck offer a killer wraparound view. The pool is small, but just leaning up on the edge of it gives you the picture of the downtown layout, the surrounding hills and lighthouse, and a big bright chunk of horizon. Looking down at flying pelicans gives a feeling that is hard to describe, but all roof visitors mention it. During the summer electrical storms the roof pool is one of the world's most exciting places to have a drink.

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The most famous landmark in Mazatlan is technically called the 'Monument to the Fisherman' but the locals call it the monos bichis (naked statues) because it's these two huge naked people seemingly less concerned with fishing than flashing their pudenda to the public. So just tell your pulmonia driver to go to the monos bichis.

Turn away from the beach and you will immediately start passing taco stands. La Luna, La Carreta, San Martin...this is THE place to eat. They open about 4 PM and run until 4 AM. And they're cheap--you can pork out for $3-4 per person. And they're pretty damn yummy. Just pick one; most have inside tables and sidewalk seating as well. Most have the menu painted right on the wall. Tacos are easy to order (remember that in Mexico ALL tacos are 'rolled tacos'). You probably don't want to start out with the brains, intestine, head parts, or tongue ones, so stick to carne asada which is thin beef charcoal broiled and chopped up, or al pastor which is the stuff you see being cooked on a 'giro'--pork with a pineapple and onion to drip down over it, roasted by flames, sliced off, chopped and wrapped in a tortilla. A Mazatlan specialty is the 'gringa' (originally called the 'gringa loca') but it's not a crazy yanqui girl, it's a tortilla of al pastor meat with melted white cheese. Whoa! If you prefer meat to pork, get the mixta. Same deal, different dead animal parts. Order a few and try them out, keep eating until your full, then ask for the check. If you're at the San Martin, leave room for flan, the caramelly custard made Mexican style. If not, mosy on over by the Municipal Market. It'll be closed, but out front are several stalls that sell NOTHING but deserts, fruit smoothies, and fresh squeezed juices.

Other than beer and soft drinks, these taco places serve aqua fresca which is like koolaid in fruit flavor, or horchata a rice flower drink that is better than it sounds, sort of a thin milkshake. Another goody you only find in Mazatlan is Toni-Col, a soft drink originally marketed as a patent medicine tonic (as were Coke and Dr. Pepper) but now an odd, fruity non-cola. Try one, you'll either really like it or really hate it; nobody's neutral on Toni-Col.

After eating, walk a block or two towards the bichis and you're at the beach for a stroll. The bus to downtown or the Golden Zone hotels goes right by until about 10 PM. After that, don't worry, the EcoTaxi's and pulmonias will cruise for you like sharks scenting blood.

The first of the Machado cafés, the bohemian, artsy Altazor is still a magnet for art students, musicians, ballerinas, journalists, and academics. There is live music almost every night, ranging from alternative rock to blues to acoustic trova (Mexican protest/folk), and the Altazor has birthed some local stars. Generally a young and lively crowd: there are cheap eats and cappuccino along with the beer--sandwiches start at 18 pesos. Or get steak or chicken cordon bleu for under 60 pesos. Breakfast and lunch under the sidewalk umbrellas is a tradition for many, and in the winter lots of foreigners lunch while playing chess or mooching magazines and papers--in English and Spanish--off the newsstand.

On weekends, especially Saturday when the Artizans Bazaar is across the street and fire dancers perform in front of the tables, this is a good place to see a lot of good-looking young women and some interesting guys into dance and music. Listen inside, or out at the sidewalk tables. Wednesday nights they show movies on a projection screen inside.

Open 9am-1am Sunday-Thursday, 9am-2am on weekends. Movie club Wednesdays at 8pm. For schedule and menu check the Internet at this site.

Named for local stars Pedro Infante (Mexico's Golden Age Movie Star) and Lola Beltran (The Queen of Ranchera Music), P&L is one of Mazatlan's landmark, destination restaurant, and is often the only one visited by tourists from the hotel zone.

A main anchor of the historic zone's rebirth, P&L pleases aesthetics as well as palettes. Across from the cultural heart and famous theater it's a natural "afterwards" where the artists themselves are entertained. It´s romantic-- sitting at sidewalk tables with flaming drinks and dishes flambed at your table. It's a legitimate musical center with live music every night in the winter season, including dinner jazz by Jock when he's not playing in Antibe. Luxury fare here, but always save room for their famous banana pie. Check their website where you can also make email reservations.

The old Fregata, a gigantic palm-thatch watering hole right across from the water on Olas Altas, went from the embodiment of Mexico to the local capital of Canada when pianist Phil Nevile moved in and turned it into a showcase for the best rock and blues band in the city. It's the spot to be on Canada Day, but all nationalities find the food good, the music fantastic, and the view splendid.

The seafood tradition continues even under the Maple Leaf, but the new chef also does a great job with Mexican food and North American chow. (Is there such a thing as Canadian cuisine?) Sunday is a good time for barbecued-rib specials and romantic Mexican music by top local groups. But Friday and Saturday are when the place really rocks, with Phil's great quintet pouring out rock, R&B, blues and Santana stuff. One of the more professional sound systems in town, and some of the top musicians.

In addition to the music, we really recommend the chicken cordon bleu, seafood platter, or even just the quesadillas. In addition to the main dining room, a huge tropical seaside space, there are smaller, more intimate spaces out back with a view of the cliffs and jungle trees. If you want a nice place to dine by the breakers and watch the locals parade by...or want to dance your butt off on the weekend, just say, "Canucks, eh?" 10-10 on Sundays and Tuesday-Thursday. Until 1am on weekends, closed Mondays. See their WEBSITE

The island is mostly vacant--you can walk 20 miles up an empty beach lined with coconut palms. Skinny dip, but nude tanning might get inspected by farmers driving by on tractors. The near end of the beach is a cluster of thatch 'palapa' restaurants. To give you the idea, most of them have hammocks so you can have a beer lying down. The best is probably 'Victor's' down at the end--great fish and a beautiful garden. You can rent inner tubes, take 'banana boat rides', rent horses, play volleyball, para-ski--or just sort of mellow out in that hammock, or walk up the beach and get away from the craziness and just be by yourself on an empty beach. The official tour is on catamarans with a bunch of other idiots, and lunch and a few margaritas are thrown in. You'll come back to this place.

There are two 'paseos', walkways constructed along the cliffs over the pounding waves. They have little plazas, benches, narrow paths that lead out to tiny perches over the surf, and some really nice bronze statues. (Most with fine tits). Olas Altas beach is between the two paseos, and a good place to swim or to grab a drink at several view cafes.
The Paseo Centenario, south of Olas Altas, is less traveled, and for serious walkers. Just walk south--the sidewalk heads up through a neighborhood before breaking out to stone railed views of waves and islands. At the far end, it descends to the ferry dock--take a right and you can climb a corkscrew footpath to the top of the lighthouse hill--the highest lighthouse in the hemisphere and a cardiac challenge--but also a heart-stopping marine view. North of Olas Altas is the more camera-friendly Paseo Claussen. There are several high promotories to sit on, including one bench on a high tower that is kind of scary, but seats two very comfortably. Sometimes divers do torch dives off this lookout, but Acapulco it ain't quite. You'll see the lovely bronze nude Mazatleca , spirit of Mazatlan rising from the spray, the mermaid showing her son the land, and the dramatic 'Continuity of Life' fountain--a dozen life-sized bronze dolphins leaping in the water while a heroic (and anatomically correct) man and woman trail behind them in a huge conch shell. At the other end, you arrive at the Malecon, where you can catch a bus downtown or out the beach.

This open-air seafood spot is a favorite of locals and expatriates, especially at the ritual sunset "green flash watch." The sea view and breeze make it a great place for lunch or dinner--check out the ceviche playera--as well as cocktail hour. The "PV" is like a tropical beach palapa moved up onto the street. Live music from 8pm on the weekends tends towards soft rock in English and Spanish. Corner of Sixto Osuna and Olas Altas (same block as Freeman Hotel). Noon to 11pm Sunday-Thursday, until 1am on weekends. 982-1886