Mazatlan's Urban Side

A travel journal to Mazatlan by El Gallo Best of IgoUgo

Cliff HangerMore Photos

Mazatlan is miles of beach, bikinied spring breakers, tacos'n'tequila, and big, booming beach bars, right? Well, okay, yeah. But it also has an old downtown section that's more like Europe than Mexico.

  • 11 reviews
  • 4 stories/tips
  • 30 photos
Olas Altas Cove
Best bets in Mazatlan: walk around the Paseos, take the Stone Island tour, go down to Olas Altas and the Old section of town.

Quick Tips:

Mazatlan has a jillion hotel rooms, most of them cheap.
Unless it's Holy Week (the week before Easter) or Carnival (the week before Fat Tuesday) you don't even need reservations. Best deals are along the Malecon--across the street from the boardwalk and beach, Lots of hotels in the -35 a night range. North in the Golden Zone, hotels on the beach charge five times that much.

Best Way To Get Around:

You can walk around the downtown/Olas Altas. There are buses running frequently between the Golden Zone and downtown for a quarter, right along the beach. Taxis are like . But the cool way to motate is the 'pulmonia'--little open cars with canopies (which is why they're called 'pneumonias') and usually a huge stereo (playing 'Macarena' or 'Mambo #5' or worse). Cheap, airy, fun, dangerous for drunken idiots--they're the perfect vacation transportation.
The Beach
Well, it's not exactly a hostel, but it's not exactly NOT a hostel. Lots of people think of it as a community, a Robinson Crusoe place on a tropical beach, where life is about as cheap and carefree as it gets. You can camp, or stay in the unique hammock-floored rooms, or just laze around like a cat. Cooking is communal (though there are plenty of restaurants around). You can beachcomb, swim, do arts and crafts, kick back at bonfires, or meditate at the Zen Center next door. This place is an experience you will remember for years. Twin Towers . . . A Tropic Island Of The Mind
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by El Gallo on August 17, 2003

The Twin Towers
Stone Island Beach Mazatlan, Mexico

Best Western Posada Freeman ExpressBest of IgoUgo

Hotel | "Hotel Posada Freeman"

Reborn and Refurbished
In 2002, the old Freeman was reborn as the historic district experienced a renaissance. The round windows allow it to claim a sort of art-deco image, and the rooftop pool bar is an icon of the lifestyle of Olas Altas cove...which WAS Mazatlan back when Lee Marvin, John Wayne, and Jane Fonda romped there.
The painstaking restoration gave the new version the look and feel of modern hotel convenience with a touch of the old days: the old design and colors have been retained: the cheerful blue/white/yellow tile, the lobby dome, even the pattern of the carpet. Glass cases in the lobby display artifacts from the old days: a bronze DC3 clock, blue logo plates, invitations for Carnival and rooftop concerts...subtle accents from a period art that recalls the Cunard Line, PanAmerican Clipper, and Ford Trimotors.
What stands now is solid comfort and service: efficient, clean living just steps away from the museums, clubs, opera house, and narrow old streets of the Historic Downtown. And, of course, the view: a commanding, 360 view of the territory, the downtown, and the wide sweep of ocean. Porches on the West side of the building hang dramatically over the beach, and the continual play of backlit water against rock.
Rates run from around $75 USD for a small but comfy singles with king bed, cable TV, coffee maker, strongbox, air-conditioner, private balcony and enough drawers and closet space for a change, to $130 for a suite with kitchenette, sitting room, and sea view deck. It's not the typical Mexican resort hotel and caters more to Mexican business and tourism than foreigners (though English is spoken). The beach is not just out the door, it's across from a real boardwalk where real residents congregate on the seawall to fish, party, and neck. The beach is there, but secondary to the Mexican city that edges up to it. This isn't exotic third world adventure, but neither is it exactly the Holiday Inn.
There is a "business center" offering free computer/internet use, and room rates include a free buffet breakfast in the lobby café where tables overlook the street and sur (and the bacon&eggs and beans&chiles are served from spherical stainless chafing dishes--more of that Titanic-class decor). But the real payoff is up on the ninth floor, where a spacious bar and rooftop pool with lounging deck offer a killer wraparound view. The pool is small, but just leaning up on the edge of it gives you the picture of the downtown layout, the surrounding hills and lighthouse, and a big bright chunk of horizon. Looking down at flying pelicans gives a feeling that is hard to describe, but all roof visitors mention it. During the summer electrical storms the roof pool is one of the world's most exciting places to have a drink.
Click here for WEBSITE
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by El Gallo on June 1, 2004

Best Western Posada Freeman Express
Olas Altas 79 Mazatlan, Mexico 82000
526699856060

Taco HiwayBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "'Taco Hiway'"

The most famous landmark in Mazatlan is technically called the 'Monument to the Fisherman' but the locals call it the monos bichis (naked statues) because it's these two huge naked people seemingly less concerned with fishing than flashing their pudenda to the public. So just tell your pulmonia driver to go to the monos bichis.

Turn away from the beach and you will immediately start passing taco stands. La Luna, La Carreta, San Martin...this is THE place to eat. They open about 4 PM and run until 4 AM. And they're cheap--you can pork out for $3-4 per person. And they're pretty damn yummy. Just pick one; most have inside tables and sidewalk seating as well. Most have the menu painted right on the wall. Tacos are easy to order (remember that in Mexico ALL tacos are 'rolled tacos'). You probably don't want to start out with the brains, intestine, head parts, or tongue ones, so stick to carne asada which is thin beef charcoal broiled and chopped up, or al pastor which is the stuff you see being cooked on a 'giro'--pork with a pineapple and onion to drip down over it, roasted by flames, sliced off, chopped and wrapped in a tortilla. A Mazatlan specialty is the 'gringa' (originally called the 'gringa loca') but it's not a crazy yanqui girl, it's a tortilla of al pastor meat with melted white cheese. Whoa! If you prefer meat to pork, get the mixta. Same deal, different dead animal parts. Order a few and try them out, keep eating until your full, then ask for the check. If you're at the San Martin, leave room for flan, the caramelly custard made Mexican style. If not, mosy on over by the Municipal Market. It'll be closed, but out front are several stalls that sell NOTHING but deserts, fruit smoothies, and fresh squeezed juices.

Other than beer and soft drinks, these taco places serve aqua fresca which is like koolaid in fruit flavor, or horchata a rice flower drink that is better than it sounds, sort of a thin milkshake. Another goody you only find in Mazatlan is Toni-Col, a soft drink originally marketed as a patent medicine tonic (as were Coke and Dr. Pepper) but now an odd, fruity non-cola. Try one, you'll either really like it or really hate it; nobody's neutral on Toni-Col.

After eating, walk a block or two towards the bichis and you're at the beach for a stroll. The bus to downtown or the Golden Zone hotels goes right by until about 10 PM. After that, don't worry, the EcoTaxi's and pulmonias will cruise for you like sharks scenting blood.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by El Gallo on August 12, 2000

Taco Hiway
Mazatlan, Mexico

Altazar'sBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "The Altazor Cafe"

Altazor Cafe
The first of the Machado cafés, the bohemian, artsy Altazor is still a magnet for art students, musicians, ballerinas, journalists, and academics. There is live music almost every night, ranging from alternative rock to blues to acoustic trova (Mexican protest/folk), and the Altazor has birthed some local stars. Generally a young and lively crowd: there are cheap eats and cappuccino along with the beer--sandwiches start at 18 pesos. Or get steak or chicken cordon bleu for under 60 pesos. Breakfast and lunch under the sidewalk umbrellas is a tradition for many, and in the winter lots of foreigners lunch while playing chess or mooching magazines and papers--in English and Spanish--off the newsstand.

On weekends, especially Saturday when the Artizans Bazaar is across the street and fire dancers perform in front of the tables, this is a good place to see a lot of good-looking young women and some interesting guys into dance and music. Listen inside, or out at the sidewalk tables. Wednesday nights they show movies on a projection screen inside.

Open 9am-1am Sunday-Thursday, 9am-2am on weekends. Movie club Wednesdays at 8pm. For schedule and menu check the Internet at this site.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by El Gallo on August 30, 2003

Altazar's
Mazatlan, Mexico

Pedro and Lola'sBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Pedro and Lola"

Pedro and Lola
Named for local stars Pedro Infante (Mexico's Golden Age Movie Star) and Lola Beltran (The Queen of Ranchera Music), P&L is one of Mazatlan's landmark, destination restaurant, and is often the only one visited by tourists from the hotel zone.

A main anchor of the historic zone's rebirth, P&L pleases aesthetics as well as palettes. Across from the cultural heart and famous theater it's a natural "afterwards" where the artists themselves are entertained. It´s romantic-- sitting at sidewalk tables with flaming drinks and dishes flambed at your table. It's a legitimate musical center with live music every night in the winter season, including dinner jazz by Jock when he's not playing in Antibe. Luxury fare here, but always save room for their famous banana pie. Check their website where you can also make email reservations.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by El Gallo on August 17, 2003

Pedro and Lola's
Carnival and Constituccion Mazatlan, Mexico

CanucksBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Canucks
The old Fregata, a gigantic palm-thatch watering hole right across from the water on Olas Altas, went from the embodiment of Mexico to the local capital of Canada when pianist Phil Nevile moved in and turned it into a showcase for the best rock and blues band in the city. It's the spot to be on Canada Day, but all nationalities find the food good, the music fantastic, and the view splendid.

The seafood tradition continues even under the Maple Leaf, but the new chef also does a great job with Mexican food and North American chow. (Is there such a thing as Canadian cuisine?) Sunday is a good time for barbecued-rib specials and romantic Mexican music by top local groups. But Friday and Saturday are when the place really rocks, with Phil's great quintet pouring out rock, R&B, blues and Santana stuff. One of the more professional sound systems in town, and some of the top musicians.

In addition to the music, we really recommend the chicken cordon bleu, seafood platter, or even just the quesadillas. In addition to the main dining room, a huge tropical seaside space, there are smaller, more intimate spaces out back with a view of the cliffs and jungle trees. If you want a nice place to dine by the breakers and watch the locals parade by...or want to dance your butt off on the weekend, just say, "Canucks, eh?" 10-10 on Sundays and Tuesday-Thursday. Until 1am on weekends, closed Mondays. See their WEBSITE
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by El Gallo on August 30, 2003

Canucks
Mazatlan, Mexico
981-5916

Stone IslandBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

The Beach
The island is mostly vacant--you can walk 20 miles up an empty beach lined with coconut palms. Skinny dip, but nude tanning might get inspected by farmers driving by on tractors. The near end of the beach is a cluster of thatch 'palapa' restaurants. To give you the idea, most of them have hammocks so you can have a beer lying down. The best is probably 'Victor's' down at the end--great fish and a beautiful garden. You can rent inner tubes, take 'banana boat rides', rent horses, play volleyball, para-ski--or just sort of mellow out in that hammock, or walk up the beach and get away from the craziness and just be by yourself on an empty beach. The official tour is on catamarans with a bunch of other idiots, and lunch and a few margaritas are thrown in. You'll come back to this place.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by El Gallo on August 8, 2000

Stone Island
Main port Mazatlan, Mexico

Walk the PaseosBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Monument to the Deer
There are two 'paseos', walkways constructed along the cliffs over the pounding waves. They have little plazas, benches, narrow paths that lead out to tiny perches over the surf, and some really nice bronze statues. (Most with fine tits). Olas Altas beach is between the two paseos, and a good place to swim or to grab a drink at several view cafes.
The Paseo Centenario, south of Olas Altas, is less traveled, and for serious walkers. Just walk south--the sidewalk heads up through a neighborhood before breaking out to stone railed views of waves and islands. At the far end, it descends to the ferry dock--take a right and you can climb a corkscrew footpath to the top of the lighthouse hill--the highest lighthouse in the hemisphere and a cardiac challenge--but also a heart-stopping marine view. North of Olas Altas is the more camera-friendly Paseo Claussen. There are several high promotories to sit on, including one bench on a high tower that is kind of scary, but seats two very comfortably. Sometimes divers do torch dives off this lookout, but Acapulco it ain't quite. You'll see the lovely bronze nude Mazatleca , spirit of Mazatlan rising from the spray, the mermaid showing her son the land, and the dramatic 'Continuity of Life' fountain--a dozen life-sized bronze dolphins leaping in the water while a heroic (and anatomically correct) man and woman trail behind them in a huge conch shell. At the other end, you arrive at the Malecon, where you can catch a bus downtown or out the beach.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by El Gallo on August 8, 2000

Walk the Paseos
The cliffs on the beach by Olas Altas Mazatlan, Mexico

Puerto ViejoBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Puerto Viejo
This open-air seafood spot is a favorite of locals and expatriates, especially at the ritual sunset "green flash watch." The sea view and breeze make it a great place for lunch or dinner--check out the ceviche playera--as well as cocktail hour. The "PV" is like a tropical beach palapa moved up onto the street. Live music from 8pm on the weekends tends towards soft rock in English and Spanish. Corner of Sixto Osuna and Olas Altas (same block as Freeman Hotel). Noon to 11pm Sunday-Thursday, until 1am on weekends. 982-1886
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by El Gallo on August 30, 2003

Puerto Viejo
Olas Altas by Freeman Hotel (Corner Sixto Osuna) Mazatlan, Mexico

Club MurallaBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Club Deportivo La Muralla
As unique and historic, in its way, as the more famous Edgar's, the Muralla is an athletic club founded in 1920 and recently opened to the public. A step inside the courtyard of the 19th-century building shows almost a century of trophies and their rowing shell. The Muralla is also a bit of Carnival history, having hosted the Carnival Monday Ball and Coronation of the Queen of the Pacific for several decades. To the right is a dark, air-conditioned bar with some of the cheapest beer in town (and great tamales from 3-6pm on Thursday, Friday and Saturday), but most foreigners prefer the Old-World courtyard in the evenings, where there is usually a band, either cowboys or romantic/pop. If your idea of "the real Mexico" is a bunch of guys in red satin cowboy clothes playing polka-based shitkicker ballads about treacherous women and the narcotics business--and that's actually about as real as Mexico gets in many ways--this is the spot.

Bar service from 10am to midnight Monday to Saturday. There is no phone, and the courtyard occasionally closes due to club events--but it's only steps away from Olas Altas, so you won't have to go thirsty.

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by El Gallo on August 30, 2003

Club Muralla
Sixto Osuna (two blocks in from Olas Altas beach) Mazatlan, Mexico

I took one look at her and thought, 'Snow White'. She had skin whiter than mine (though her sister was a dark as the average Mexicana) and a cap of curly black hair: dead ringer for the Disney Version. Except the costume was off. I mean almost totally off. She had a G-string, maybe I'd even call it G sharp, some six inch heels with teensy straps, and this guazy thing. I sat down and waved her over to my table--she looked upset and split. Go figure. I asked the waiter what was up and he smiled, 'It's her first night. I'll tell her you're buying her a drink.' I got her story--some urgent need for cash before Christmas, her sister had told her about El Caballito, she herself had suggested dancing here, her sister had doubled up laughing, then helped her pick some clothes. No buttons, no hooks, no friction. Easy on, easy off, breakaway if grabbed. And sexy, of course.
Drinking with me calmed her down a little, an older guy not panting for her (not on the outside, anyway) and watched the other dancers, picking up moves, asking my advice. I was about falling in love when her sister called her up to dance. She walked towards the stage then turned to me...I wished her luck.
Judged as a dancer, even as a naked dancer, she sucked. She had mentioned that she was worried because she never went dancing and didn't know how. She had that right. But with her body how bad could she do? She would do a few moves for awhile, then glance to her sister, who would pantomime another lick, laughing loudly.
Her sister, by the way, was the boldest dancer in the place. And let me point out that El Caballito is a pretty raunchy place. It's full of lower class Mexican men and even classlesser tourists, all baying for a touch of female flesh. The girls dance on garishly mislit runway to show off the goods, then are up for bids for table dances. Which are catch as catch can. The typical is to alternate some hootchie cootchie on the table top, glancing off the bolder hands stabbing up along thighs, maybe kicking a beer into the lap of the overly familiar. Then there's the lap segment, in which the dancer drops into a lap and does some gyrations, or straddles or...hell, you know. This can get pretty wild. It can also get crowded, you see a girl go down under as tossing sea of hands. The bouncers aren't interested in anything that isn't causing harm--the rules are, you can do whatever the girls allow, or whatever you can get away with. That's the scene Snow White was about to walk into, and the one her sister dominated like a puppet mistress.
Her sis took chances out there, flashing it right in faces, then flicking it away, spurning clinches like a matador, always twisting just out of reach of a hand, a hooking arm. I saw one guy just lose it and dive across a table trying to tackle her. She spun off it and kicked him off the table onto the floor. His mates went wild, so she jumped off onto his chair, then his chest, did a few grinds and was back on the table before anybody laid a glove on her. On the other hand, in a man's lap she was pretty clingy and definitely industrial strength erotic, even affectionate. Most fun a guy can have with his clothes on. One night she even gave me a nice kiss before sliding off me and back onto the table. At the end of the song, she steps through a broken field of grabbies onto the runway and vanishes. Until somebody ponies up the next $3.
I doubt Snow White will ever make into that league. She couldn't figure out to handle the table stuff, so she'd just plot in a guy's lap, pull his face into her bosom, and start doing a rocking horse winner. But first she had to get through her first dance. She handled what a lot of girls say is the tough part, stepping out of panties wearing big shoes. But she obviously had no gift for movement or rhythm, in spite of her sister's coaching.
What she didn't know was--and this is significant--that right over her head was a big television, which was showing a soccer game as she danced. She was looking at her sister, the other girls, reading the men's reactions, a new kid trying hard to do good. She did a little locomotion step her sister had telegraphed to her, and there was a quick titter (if you will) or excitement in the room. Finally, a clue. She kept doing the move, but it never worked as well. Mostly because the enthusiasm had been for a daring drive towards the Guadalajara goal on the screen above her head. So she looked at her sister, who suggested leaning over. Which, game to please, she did. And immediately the room erupted in angry boos and curses--largely due not to the sight of her, but a heinous foul on the on-screen striker. She jerked upright in a sort of panic and stepped back, wide-eyed. Well, no more of that stuff. She kept rigidly erect for the rest of the dance. So did I. Her sister was helpless with laughter, rolling on the stage--no hope from that quarter, so she toughed it out. I was busily writing an article in my head on the subliminal impact of media on performance arts. Actually, this is it.
As soon as she finished there was a hubbub of action for her--new kid in town. Beautiful, built, young, and naive--what could be better. So she stepped up on a table surrounded by totally drunk working class ruffians and started dancing. She was immediately waist deep in a sea of rough hands. They were all over her and it looked like she was sinking. I was feeling a little downcast myself. Then she looked up, to escape the reality of it, I think, and saw the soccer game. Light dawns over MarbleHead. She seemed to just sort of transcend, glanced down at the guys and just sort of drew herself up out of it, at the same time letting them have her. Sorry if you were expecting some movie rally, where she kicks them all in the face or jumps down and leaves.
They didn't treat her as bad as the next table, a bunch of American tourists who I immediately thought of as 'the Seven Dorks' and had me about on the point of going over and kicking butt. 'Hands off that maiden!' would I have said? 'She's mine to exploit!' perhaps? What? She lost a little something at that table, I think, and went to the next one ready to do her job, let guys handle her for money. I don't think she really had the picture before that. The next table she came to was mine. She brightened up a bit, asked me how she'd done. I told she was doing just fine. She just slid onto my lap, leaving me suddenly holding a tight, padded, white torso of a beautiful dancer in my arms, feeling beautiful breasts against me, looking right into the eyes of Snow White. She didn't even get on the table, just sat there and rocked up against me, alternating lying back against the table, her breasts tumbling before her, and wrapping her self around me, warm breath and sweet nipples right in my ears. Then the song was over. I told her she'd done just fine. She knocked me over with a smile and went over to do something disgusting with some other jerk. On the screen, a goal shot was narrowly deflected. The place went wild.

MAZ LINXBest of IgoUgo

Story/Tip

Creston Lighthouse
Some informational and recreational links to "Maz".

LOCAL RESOURCES

RADIO FREE MAZATLAN
The top local website, with message forum for questions.

MAZTRAVEL
Mazatlán's best visitor site
NOROESTE
Major local newspaper (in Spanish)
Carnaval in Mazatlán
Including schedule of events
Mazatlán On Line
General info.
All About Mazatlán
Read all about it...
Official Page of Municipio de Maztlán
(In Spanish)
Mazatlán Area MAPS
To print or download
Local TIDE TABLES
Courtesy of Pacific Pearl
Mazatlán WEATHER
Very complete and accurate
26&Mes=6&Ano=2002" TARGET="_new">Local WEATHER MAP
Spanish, Temperature in Celsius
FERRY SCHEDULES and information
From Maz to La Paz by water!
CURRENCY CONVERTER
Dollars to Pesos, etc.
Maztlán Reading Library
In Olas Altas area
Centro de Idiomas
Learn Spanish downtown
Earth View
See Mazatlán from space!

FUN, GAMES AND CULTURE

Carnaval in Mazatlán
Including schedule of events
Jose Limón International Dance Festival
Spanish, but includes schedule of Festival
Mazatlán Film Festival
English language page
MOVIE SCHEDULES
Cinepolis Theaters
Cinemas Gaviotas
MM Cinemas
Events at Angela Peralta Theater
The Theater's own website
Schedule of Civic Events
Marathon, baseball, arts festivals, theater...
Sand Castle Contest
Dig and delve with "Don Beto"
Municipal Center for Cinemagraphic Arts
Spanish, but has schedule for free film series

Diving and Water Sports

Hudson Snorkeling Tours
One of the better operators
Hudson Spearfishing Tours
Freedive spear hunting.

Wall Flower
Olas Altas beach is a good start. Have a beer at the Copa de Leche (or better yet, ceviche at the Viejo Viento at the south end of the beach), then head straight inland through a section of two-hundred year old buildings, many falling to ruins. Four blocks in is the Plazuela Machado, a little square that has been the center for Carnaval, including crowning of the Queen for a hundred years. Sometimes people who enter the Plazuela suddenly have the sensation that they've suddenly warped to Europe--the sidewalk cafes, the cobbled streets, the intimate plaza with its old balconied buildings.
There are always events, usually musical, and usually a little odd for foreigners, in the Plazauela, but there is ALWAYS music in the evenings. The tree-lined sidewalk has a half-dozen sidewalk cafes. Be sure to check out Cafe Pacifico on the corner--it reeks rough history and looks like Pancho Villa will step out of the head at any minutes and dry his hand on the bear skin wall hanging. Don't let the rustic looks fool you, they have nice live jazz on weekends. The other corner has Pablo & Lola's, where there is jazz sax every night, followed by a variety of great local musicians. The art and dance students from the state music colleges around the plaza hang at Cafe Altazor, which also has bohemian music when they get it together. At the end of the Plaza is the theater, which also hosts music at times.
Continue inland after a stop at the cafes, and you come to the central plaza by the cathedral, two blocks west and you're at the big central Market, where the buses all stop.
Valentinos
Moderate Priced Mazatlán Hotels


Mazatlan has a great many charms, but to many the main ones its relative close access by highway and its low costs. Everything seems cheaper in Mazatlan, especially to travelers used to prices in the Baja and border areas. And it has so many nice, inexpensive hotel rooms that they never fill up except during Semana Santa and Carnival, so car travelers have an excellent chance of finding rooms with no reservations. Better yet, unlike hotels in places like Cancun, these hotels have parking lots and accommodate drivers. Most fly-in package-deal visitors to Mazatlan end up in the "Golden Zone" strand of high-rise hotels directly on the beach. Golden Zone rooms tend to start at around $90 a night and head up steeply.

But between the Zone and the downtown is Avenida Del Mar, a curving street four miles long with a broad seaside promenade studded with statues, steps to the sand, and small surfside seafood shacks. It’s along this stretch, called the Malecón, that you are likely to find bargain lodging without giving up comfort or ocean views. Malecón hotels might require you to cross the street to hit the beach, but they also offer access to cheaper dining and relief from the tourist trap atmosphere of the Zone. Access to the Zone or downtown is cheap and quick: "Sabalo-Centro" buses pass directly in front. Besides, car travelers can use their hotel pool as a base, while driving to nicer beaches and villages in the outskirts.

Taking the Malecón hotels from north to south, the first is Bungalos Dany, directly across from Valentino’s, the white "Disney Castle" that sticks out into the ocean and marks the beginning of the Golden Zone. It’s a motel-style layout with a secure parking lot and a small pool out front. Rooms for one or two people run around 360 pesos on the beach side, 300 in the back. At the current exchange rate of 9.20 Pesos to a dollar that amounts to $32 and up. For 480 pesos (around $52) you get a suite with kitchenette. The shops, restaurants, and discos of the Golden Zone are just a short walk . . . and there’s even a McDonalds across the street!

Suites Los Fuentes is an odd duck, but could be a great deal. It can’t quite decide if it’s a hotel or an apartment building, and you can rent here for day, month, week, or the duration. A suite with two bedrooms costs 390 pesos for one or two people (kids are free here . . . so that would also be $42 for the whole family) and include kitchen and parking. The Los Fuentes is situated in a commercial complex that includes a cocktail lounge that is only open at night, and a sushi bar.

The Sands/Arenas may have a bilingually confused identity, but is very popular with Mexican families and excursion groups, probably because they are efficient, pleasant, clean, and friendly. Their double rooms run around 450 pesos, $48 at the moment, and include telephone, cable TV (meaning channels in English), and even air-conditioning. Their lobby restaurant is very nicely set off with stained glass and marble floors. But the most fun is outdoors, where a decent-sized pool surrounded by a large apron with dining shelters is always full of kids having fun. There’s a waterslide and even a jacuzzi. Abutting the pool is a fountain that sports bronze statues of dolphins leaping out of the water in front of a smiling statue of Jesus. Walls and hedges cut street noise to the point you can't hear it over the kids.

The Acuario is pretty much a generic motel, on the downside of "lived-in" but not quite "shabby". No frills for 250 pesos single or double. (By the way, for the real bargain freaks who don’t mind a purely Mexican hotel, there is also the Perla, a block back from the Avenue. Rooms here start at under $15 and run up to around $25 with TV and AC. It would have a nice ocean view if only somebody had thought to put in the necessary windows. Anybody comfortable with this level of accommodation and price, by the way, should look in the Playa Norte area (south of the Fisherman’s Monument), where hotels like the Del Rio and Mexico are under $10 a night. Best is the Lerma, commodious, English-speaking, with a large secure parking lot-the best budget hotel in town.

Between the Perla and the Del Sol is the famous, if not ubiquitous, Senor Frogs restaurant and, for the sports-minded, a batting cage where kids or aging ballplayers can step up to four levels of pitching machines. The Del Sol itself is a frequent choice of people who are going to be around awhile, but don’t want the bother of rental contracts, or those who want a place with a few amenities right across from the beach and an easy bus ride to downtown or Golden Zone. The basic room is 380 pesos, but the suite, at a hair over $50 comes with two beds, telephone, cable TV, air-conditioning and a kitchenette.

The PlayaMar is a bit of a bargain for families or people who want to stay awhile. Their rooms start at $350 for a double -- around $38. But that's a room with two beds, a little refrigerator, and a dinette set -- a sort of mini-suite. Rooms have telephones and color TV, and in the back by the parking lot is a very cute pool with a little bridge over it and picnic shelters around the apron. Pool-front rooms are probably better than seafront ones, actually . . . they are quieter, shadier, and give handy access to the pool from their porches.

The last of the Malecón hotels is the Cabinas Al Mar, where a single room is just $200 pesos a night, doubles at $400. So around $20 for a couple. And you can upgrade to an apartment with kitchenette (and all the savings on meals and drinks that come with it) for only $600 a night, around $65. The Cabinas is a humble "efficiency" type place, but has a secure parking lot, and even a teensy pool.

Before the Zone, before the Malecón, was Olas Altas, a curved cove by the historic district, just blocks from downtown and the central market. The two old hotels there are well-known to bargain hunters, who can be seen on their ocean-view patios or body surfing on the beach. When the Belmar was built in 1918, it was the most elegant thing on the coast, but these days it's grandeur is faded and a bit scuffed. It still has the position across from Olas Altas Beach, still has the polished tropical hardwood paneling in the halls, still the huge hardwood front doors and traces of the old wooden artwork. But these days it can seem a little gloomy to some. To others, it's a fun place and a major bargain. Don't worry about the ping-pong room or the old rocking chairs, or the tile pool with its bridge and fountain, don't sweat the creaky elevator or flaky service...just take a sea view double on one of the upper floors, and walk in past the gleaming old hardwood doors and closet. Don't bother with the cable TV or the two comfy beds. Just step out on your balcony and look out over Olas Altas, with the hills and islands flanking the view. Then tell yourself that you are only paying only $28 a night for this. If you insist on two king beds, and a refrigerator take a suite for only $50 and change. Secure parking lot, too.

Two blocks down, the La Siesta is another Mazatlan tradition that has been shuffled aside by "progress". It's better kept and better run than the Belmar, at similar rates. The Siesta gets a mix of young people and older travelers who have been coming back for years. Sometimes these prices get bumped up a bit during high season, and of course the peso fluctuates, but the Malecón and Olas Altas will always be top value in hotel rooms, especially for those arriving by car.

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El Gallo
El Gallo
Monkey Junction, Afghanistan

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