Mazatlan

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Some choice picks in Mazatlan

A May 2004 trip to Mazatlan by El Gallo Best of IgoUgo

La Jolla MazatlanMore Photos

Mazatlan offers are clear-cut choices for backpackers and penny pinchers, and some obvious spots for the price-is-no-object crowd. For the average vacationer, it can get confusing or just the result of random picking. Well, here's a local's list of some good "in between" places that stand out for various reasons.

  • 8 reviews
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Some choice picks in MazatlanBest of IgoUgo

Overview

Olas Altas Cove (With view of Hotel Freeman)
Mazatlan, tourist-wise, is more like three separate cities. The Golden Zone is a sprawling, raucous strip of tourist traps and overpricing (still cheaper than U.S. or even other Mexican beach resorts, though). It also has a long beautiful beach, tropic islands just offshore, nice hotels with cool pools, flashy restaurants, and nice shopping. And, of course, thousands of other people just like you.
The Historic Zone, downtown, is rising from ruins and has a couple of hotels on Olas Altas beach, lots of great, cheap restaurants, museums, cafes, jazz and R&B joints (along with crazy Mazatlan music), a real public market, art galleries, symphony concerts and opera . . . and a laid-back lifestyle.
The Malecon, miles of boardwalk that connect the two areas, features dozens of cheap hotels across the beach and a bus ride from anything else. Few of these hotels appear on the Internet or travel agent radar, but are perfect for anybody who drove in.

Quick Tips:

The best times to go -- which are also, of course, the best times to avoid -- are Carnival, which starts 40 days before Palm Sunday (which I sure you can quickly trace back to the first Sunday preceding the first Pascual Moon before the Spring Equinox) and ends in a total drunken train wreck -- and Bike Week, which is arranged to fall between Carnival and Semana Santa and features the biggest conglomeration of bikers in Mexico, sort of a Baja Sturgis. The best bet is to hang out in the bars along Olas Altas or the cafes on Plaza Machado and get the vibe before doing anything stupid or expensive. If you go to timeshare presentations, there is no help for you and there is NO point in reading any tips from anybody. That about covers it, Pilgrim.

Best Way To Get Around:

Transportation is snap in the hotel strip (known here as the Golden Zone). There is only one main drag, Camaron Sabalo, and a short offshoot called Loaiza (named after an assasinated govenor, not the baseball star). Sabalo Centro buses headed south go along the boardwalk, stop at tourist traps like Senor Frogs, enter the downtown, pass by the public market, and end up at the ferry terminal. Running north they take you back to the Zone. Heading north along Sabalo, Sabalo Cocos, and Sabalo Cerritos take you out to pretty beaches beyond the building sprawl. All other buses go to horrible places.
Taxis are extremely cheap. Slightly less cheap, but more fun are Mazatlan's gift to leisure transport -- the pulmonia. These open cars, usually with monstrous (in every sense) stereos, offer wind in the hair, easy upchucking, flashing at opposite sex, and as their name suggests . . . pneumonia. If you have a big bunch of fun-lovers, try an auriga, a Japanese pickup truck with rails and benches in the back for a true cattle-drive sensibility. "EcoTaxis" are cheaper, faster, and safer. You will ignore them, right?

Costa De Oro Beach HotelBest of IgoUgo

Hotel | "Costa de Oro"

Coolest Pool in Town
The Costa de Oro isn't the oldest, newest, or biggest hotel on Sabalo, and it doesn't drip with luxuries and pampering: what it offers is comfort, barefoot beach access, a great pool area . . . and a lower price than its neighbors. Cheaper rooms with two double beds start at about $65 USD a night with air conditioning, cable, balcony and coffee makers...a cut above Holiday Inn and a sort of beach cottage feel. Goes well with the sound of surf you get in every room. The suites run up to around $170 US a night and are everything you could want in a beach retreat. The living room and kitchen are very nice, with access to lawn or balcony and the sleeping areas are ingeniously stepped up almost like lofts, with dividers to allow open feeling or privacy -- the TV swivels from living room to bedroom.

The Costa has very neat lobby shops. No little tobacco kiosk here: they have a complete convenience store that sells six packs, groceries and liquor. And instead of the usual tacky gift shop, they have Rubio Jewelers, who show work by Segio Bustamante, Mexico's premier atist in ceramics, bronze, and fine metals. By the way, even locals flock to an across-the-street neighbor, Mazatlan Book and Coffee Company. Get your beach reading or sell what you brought down. The restaurant, Adobes, is just feet above the sand and waves and gives killer sunset views. Prices are about par for Golden Zone for a very well-prepared selection of seafood, steaks, and Mexican specialties. Try arrachera -- tender marianated steak.

But what counts is the water, and the Costa has that all over: The pool area is highly cool: a freeform lagoon job with rocks and waterfalls and the whole neverland scene, and a big shallow apron area for smaller kiddos -- but wide enough for actual swimming. The bar is close at hand, or course, and a stairway down to the beach for real swimming or walking. Sunsets are pure Mazatlan from the deck, the copper sky filtered through the Three Islands.

The beach also offers enhancement for those who being on a tropical beach with swimming pool is not entertaining enough. They rent parasail rides, kayaks and Hobie Cats to explore the islands offshore, boogie boards, even jet skis if you are the type of obnoxious moron who uses jet skis. If you are seeking nothing more than mindless tanning, wave hopping, and sand in your toes, the "Gold Coast" definitely fits the bill.
For more information, see their WEBSITE.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by El Gallo on June 15, 2004

Costa De Oro Beach Hotel
AVE CAMARON SABALO S N Mazatlan, Mexico 82110
52-669-913-8021

Royal Villas ResortBest of IgoUgo

Hotel | "Royal Villas"

Seaside Beehive
I've been staying in a suite in Royal Villas for two days and I have decided to live here. It's the kind of life I was born for. I'm not coming out. You'll never take me, coppers. Send up some ice cream.

Locals consider Royal Villas one of the best bargains in the area for luxury accommodation. A lot of the credit belongs to the architects and planners: the Royal Suites' design is very smart. The twelve stories look sort of squat, like a beehive, with a mass of angles that give all the suites a great view. Sea breeze wafts through the lobby and up through the hollow core, gently waving the hanging gardens and cooling the place through Mazatlan's brutal summers. The layouts are more like fashionable apartments . . . there are even bathtubs (a rarity in Mexico let me tell you) with lacy cloth curtains.

For that matter, there are all kinds of things you swells might be used to, but I am not used to seeing in hotel rooms. Okay, double door fridge and microwave and range and all the meal serving stuff are probably normal in something called a "suite", but a toaster? A BLENDER for crissakes? It's a traveler's oasis with ironing boards and steam irons, sewing kit, washer/dryer on every other floor. Mine had a couch/bed and TV's in both living room and bedroom and THREE balconies with lounges and little tables. I refuse to leave. It's not just the height and width of these balconies: it's they are perfectly positioned in front of the Three Islands for maximal sunsets and daylight eyefeasts. The pelicans like the building and are always swooping about.

The lobby sports a salon and day spa, a sprawling restaurant with breakfast buffet, an art store, but you'd really rather be out on the water, right? A great little pool with waterslide, and a big wide beach with big combers, yellow sand, and plenty of toys. Rows of chaise lounges embrace and soothe the sun-deprived. They must not have balconies, poor souls. I don't want to go back to not having a balcony. Or a living room with artistic lamps and nice furniture and a sparkling kitchen. I need a bathtub, dammit. I'm not leaving.

I couldn't ordinarily afford this place. But for you it's not that much. You could pay more for much, much less right up the beach. In the U.S. or Europe you would not be living like this for under $200 USD a night, I think. And they have rooms for under $150 a night. No kitchens, but nice balconies. But think of this: above me there is a PENTHOUSE! Sleeps eight, 360 view (including the mountains you see coming up in the nifty glass elevator) for under $600 US a night. It’s less than $75 a person. You know what that buys in San Francisco? A box on the motorway, that's what. Forget it. I shall not be moved.

For more information, see their WEBSITE.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by El Gallo on June 15, 2004

Royal Villas Resort
AVE CAMARON SABALO 500 Mazatlan, Mexico 82110
52-669-916-6162

Bw Posada Freeman ExpressBest of IgoUgo

Hotel | "Hotel Posada Freeman"

A Modern Landmark
In 2002, the old Freeman was reborn as the historic district experienced a renaissance. The round windows allow it to claim a sort of art-deco image, and the rooftop pool bar is an icon of the lifestyle of Olas Altas cove. . .which WAS Mazatlan back when Lee Marvin, John Wayne, and Jane Fonda romped there.

The painstaking restoration gave the new version the look and feel of modern hotel convenience with a touch of the old days: the old design and colors have been retained: the cheerful blue/white/yellow tile, the lobby dome, even the pattern of the carpet. Glass cases in the lobby display artifacts from the old days: a bronze DC3 clock, blue logo plates, invitations for Carnival and rooftop concerts. . .subtle accents from a period art that recalls the Cunard Line, PanAmerican Clipper, and Ford Trimotors.

What stands now is solid comfort and service: efficient, clean living just steps away from the museums, clubs, opera house, and narrow old streets of the Historic Downtown. And, of course, the view: a commanding, 360 view of the territory, the downtown, and the wide sweep of ocean. Porches on the West side of the building hang dramatically over the beach, and the continual play of backlit water against rock.

Rates run from around $75 USD for a small but comfy singles with king bed, cable TV, coffeemaker, strongbox, air-conditioner, private balcony and enough drawers and closet space for a change, to $130 for a suite with kitchenette, sitting room, and sea view deck. It's not the typical Mexican resort hotel and caters more to Mexican business and tourism than foreigners (though English is spoken). The beach is not just out the door; it's across a real boardwalk where real residents congregate on the seawall to fish, party, and neck. The beach is there, but secondary to the Mexican city that edges up to it. This isn't exotic third world adventure, but neither is it exactly the Holiday Inn.

There is a "business center" offering free computer/internet use, and room rates include a free buffet breakfast in the lobby café where tables overlook the street and sea (and the bacon&eggs and beans&chiles are served from spherical stainless chafing dishes -- more of that Titanic-class decor). But the real payoff is up on the 9th floor, where a spacious bar and rooftop pool with lounging deck offer a killer wraparound view. The pool is small, but just leaning up on the edge of it gives you the picture of the downtown layout, the surrounding hills and lighthouse, and a big bright chunk of horizon. Looking down at flying pelicans gives a feeling that is hard to describe, but all roof visitors mention it. During the summer electrical storms the roof pool is one of the world's most exciting places to have a drink.

Here is the FREEMAN WEBSITE.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by El Gallo on June 15, 2004

Bw Posada Freeman Express
OLAS ALTAS NO 79 SUR Mazatlan, Mexico 82000
526699856060

Hotel Playa MazatlanBest of IgoUgo

Hotel

The First Golden Zone Egg
The Playa was the first of the Golden Zone hotels, and remains everybody's recommendation for lodging value. Back in 1955 when Ulysses George built a low-lying motel with one killer stretch of beach, nobody thought much of the idea. Today the Playa is the grandaddy of the row of hotels that stretch north: there are bigger, cheaper, posher hotels, but there is something very Mazatleca about the Playa.

For one thing it is resolutely un-highrise. One of the new wings is five stories, but it doesn't project that attitude . . . it just seems to be a sprawl of bedrooms right off the Pacific with pools everywhere you turn. Those rooms don't try to be anything more than hotel rooms, for the most part. They are comfortable, roomy, and functional without pretention. The idea is that you won't be spending that much time in your room, and it seems to work that way. There are at least three pools and a nice gym that tends towards aerobic kinds of things like spinning and stair-staring, but also has weights and sweatables available. Kids can paint ceramics or take place in organized kid-wrangling programs to get rid of them. There is 24-hour internet available. There are shops, including a knockout furniture gallery.

But mostly, if predictably in a place called Playa Mazatlan, the big deal is the beach. You step out onto a stretch of sand you can walk for miles, waves that are the perfect size and attitude--neither too far nor too close to the Valentinos point break. Hobie Cats or kayaks take you straight across to the unpopulated beaches of the Three Islands. Any way of laying around on the beach can be handled expeditiously. The Playa is a 50s beach bum, essentially.

But there is no need to take off for the slavering maw of the Golden Zone nightlife district once the glorious sunset fades. Lots of locals come to the Playa for entertainment. Grownups, that is. Springbreakers and twits are, thankfully, better accommodated elsewhere. The seafront restaurant is a mecca for romance, actually. It's a huge place that seats hundreds, probably the biggest stand of tables within yards of sand in the whole town. And the cooking is way above average, with prices that are quite reasonable compared to most of the hotel places along the strip.

But mostly what the Playa offers at night is tropical romance by the hibiscus-full. The center of the restaurant is open to the stars, and contact dancing is encouraged by the sound of waves, the warm tropic bouquet, and the highly experienced bands that can cook our salsa or meld bodies with sensual bossanova or Santana instrumentals. On Sundays, the view of the stars is augmented a little . . . a fireworks show lights up the skies and stitches the beach with "castillos" or sparkle, dazzle, and Ole!

You can stay at the Playa for under $100 a night. It's as Mazatlan as it gets. It's a deal. PLAYA WEBSITE

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by El Gallo on June 15, 2004

Hotel Playa Mazatlan
PO BOX 207 Mazatlan, Mexico
669-989-0555

Mazatlan Lodging RegistryBest of IgoUgo

Hotel

La Jolla Mazatlan
The scene in Mazatlan has been shifting towards the historic downtown in recent years, and is now attracting a whole new kind of individual. The days when tourism in the Land of Maz was all about MTV twerps drinking their way from discos to highrise hotels in the Golden Zone is becoming passe. The new profile favors people who appreciate older buildings with attractive architecture, small restaurants and jazz clubs, and the quieter atmosphere of narrow streets and sidewalk cafes. People, in other words, who would like staying in comfortable, elegant surroundings and can get around the world without "package deals".

The renaissance of the Historic Center has been fueled by restoration of old buildings. Many of those restorations have become bed and breakfasts, which shows a variety that could appeal to a wide range of tastes. And all of them are just blocks from Olas Altas Beach and the cultural heart of Plaza Machado, where you can get espresso with jazz piano across from the opera house and ballet in the open air.

Places like Casa Romantica and La Jolla Mazatlan are designer showcases crammed with charm, art, antiques, and sheer luxury. You tend to get fancy baths, posh furniture, and pianos at places like this. Some, like Casa Bonita, mix that feel with a casual feel and swimming pool. Luxuriant new places like Loro De Oro and Bahia Brisas offer beauty at every hand. Garden of Eden and Finca de Paraiso opt for cool retreats into calm solitude.

Another option for those who prefer the old quarter is the recent crop of furnished suites that have sprung up around the downtown. These apartments feature the comfort and economy of kitchens in suites that you can move into immediately with all linens, cookware, towels, and appliances in place and ready to go. Rentable by the week, month, or season, these suites are becoming a popular way to "do Mazatlan".

The easiest way to check out the possibilities is the Mazatlan Lodging Registry, which lists eight to ten B&B's and suites in the downtown, with pictures, descriptions, and links to the website of each accommodation. Great for people who are capable of handling their own "packaging". For a quick scan of homestyle stays in Old Mazatlan, see the Registry WEBSITE.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by El Gallo on June 15, 2004

Mazatlan Lodging Registry
Online Directory Mazatlan, Mexico

CanucksBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Up Against the Wall
The old Fregata, a gigantic palm-thatch watering hole right across from the water on Olas Altas, went from the embodiment of Mexico to the local capital of Canada when pianist Phil Nevile moved in and turned it into a showcase for the best rock and blues band in the city. It's the spot to be on Canada Day, but all nationalities find the food good, the music fantastic, and the view splendid.

The seafood tradition continues even under the Maple Leaf, but the new chef also does a great job with Mexican food and North American chow. (Is there such a thing as Canadian cuisine?) Sunday is a good time for barbecued-rib specials and romantic Mexican music by top local groups. But Friday and Saturday are when the place really rocks, with Phil's great quintet pouring out rock, R&B, blues, and Santana stuff. It has one of the more professional sound systems in town, and some of the top musicians.

In addition to the music, we really recommend the chicken cordon bleu, seafood platter, or even just the quesadillas. In addition to the main dining room, a huge tropical seaside space, there are smaller, more intimate spaces out back with a view of the cliffs and jungle trees. If you want a nice place to dine by the breakers and watch the locals parade by, or want to dance your butt off on the weekend, just say, "Canucks, eh?" 10am to 10pm on Sundays and Tuesday to Thursday. Open until 1am on weekends, closed Mondays. See their WEBSITE

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by El Gallo on October 13, 2004

Canucks
Mazatlan, Mexico
981-5916

Old Broadway CafeBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "The Old Broadway Cafe"

Lorenzo at the Piano
Ladies seem to like taking slinky dresses and dancing heels on vacation, even to a sandals, shorts, and sunburn locale like Mazatlan. Well, suddenly there's a reason to bring along that glitter gown--there is now a Manhattan night club in town. The Old Broadway Cafe is a bright splash of urban glitz on the Maz night: a big room with red leatherette booths, concert lighting, hardwood dance floor, grand piano, and everything that goes with the big photos of Frank and the Rat Pack on the walls. The decor, linens, and waitstaff signal sophistication and the menu continues the feeling: expensive but not exorbitant, lush, rich, and with that elusive scent of spoiling one's self.

But basically the Broadway is a music venue, and the music steps right up to the standards set by the ambience. Jazz musicians in Mazatlan? Better believe it. Gayle Lee has a pile of "Best Vocalist" awards from her San Diego years, while Lorenzo Gariga was a classical prodigy before studying on three continents and switching to the challenge of jazz. The guy will amaze you--just don't try to understand his Paris-accented English. Manhattan Beat shows you that Latins also know a thing or two about comping and syncopation. But the nights to go are Tuesday and Thursday, when a superbly talented jazz dance troupe called Night Steps creates a cleverly choreographed caberet reminiscent of adagio in a Riviera cellar.

Whether you want to eat like a king, drink like Deano, hear top musicians, or hell, just watch a basketball game from the big bar, the Old Broadway is NOT what you expect on a Mexican beach.

For details and music calendar, to go their WEBSITE.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by El Gallo on June 15, 2004

Old Broadway Cafe
418 Camaron Sabalo Mazatlan, Mexico

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El Gallo
El Gallo
Monkey Junction, Afghanistan

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