Last night I dreamed of La Isla.... Madonna I'll watch the sun go down and hear the sea roll in I'll be thinking of you and how it might have been Hear the night birds cry and watch the sunset die I hope you understand I just had to go back to the Island Leon Russell Eight years ago I moved off La Isla. Must have been out ofmy mind. I came back dreading what I've seen in so many charming little coasts inMexico and my fears seemed realized as I walked off the ferry. To the right, anew 7-11--he only one I've ever seen in Mexico. To the left, worse, a SeñorFrogs-- about as omnipresent imperiali
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I'll watch the sun go down and hear the sea roll in
I'll be thinking of you and how it might have been
Hear the night birds cry and watch the sunset die
I hope you understand I just had to go back to the Island
Leon Russell
Eight years ago I moved off La Isla. Must have been out of
my mind.
I came back dreading what I've seen in so many charming little coasts in
Mexico and my fears seemed realized as I walked off the ferry. To the right, a
new 7-11--he only one I've ever seen in Mexico. To the left, worse, a Señor
Frogs-- about as omnipresent imperialism of gringo gear force-feeding
imaginable. There are a couple of five story hotels now, and more seasonal
homes along the water. A lot more cars in a place where there is absolutely no
reason to have one.
But that was in town, and that was about it. I got my old apartment again
and standing on my roof I couldn’t seen anything that had changed in the old
‘hood. It’s still a little town isolated from the main hurly-burly by a ferry
ride, enriched by tourism but not overwhelmed. Still miles of gorgeous
underwater terrain where nobody goes. Still a place where you can walk--or
dine--in the streets. Still a very sweet, mellow, innocent little place.
Glad to be back. Now, about you.
If you like the Hotel Zone in Cancun, chain bars and stores, high-power
shopping, streets rattling with abrasive American music, walls of glass above
beaches crowded with vendors...this place is not for you. You belong in Cancun
or Playa Carmen and should stay there for everybody's benefit.
If your idea of a holiday is wading hundreds of yards through calm still
waters, dining on streets without rushing cars, sleeping with the sound of the
surf, spending a day under a palapa by turquoise sea sipping beer, maybe
hearing an acoustic trio or oldies group in the evening, snorkling without the
need of tour guides and motorboats...then come on over. It's still here.
Quick Tips:
The quickie?
Turn left off the ferry and walk along the street full of little shops and tourist trap nuttiness until you hit the beach. Take off your shoes and go on the sand. There are bars with chairs on the beach, you might not get any further.
Walk around the north tip to the bridge. This is a beautiful beach and EXCELLENT for children. Also some beginner snorkling areas.
Walk back through town along the windward side or along Hidalgo, where all the restaurants and nicer shops are.
If you want to buzz around, note the section below. (Go up the lighthouse at South Point for some cool pics)Best Way To Get Around:
It's five miles long. The downtown, with several beaches is like four blocks square.
You don't need anything but your feet.
But they rent bikes by the ferry. And mopeds. And the island's characteristic transport...golf carts. So you take a spin around.
DON'T drive around the downtown like a typical tourist idiot. There's no need, no parking, no room. Okay?
Drive to the South Point. The windward side has great pulloffs on cliffs over the waves, the leeward side has mansions and weirdness and several nice beachfront restaurant/playgrounds.
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