Hecho en Honduras

There was no more putting off the inevitable return for spending the night in San Pedro Sula; a city which captures international Spanish headlines for all the wrong reasons! Crime, gangs, drugs, Hiv/AIDS are reportedly among the worst in Central America. I was still repulsing from the misguided culture shock-orientation upon arrival in Honduras.

Most won't have any choice but to succumb with flight availabilities. Information consistantly admonishes the bad, but expecting the absolute worst turned out to be distortion. While there's no shortage to the reprehensible composite, discriminate visitors will best hold up within the downtown area.

Oddly enough, there was safety in numbers amidst the masses; kind of like being invisible though I didn't notice any other travelers. There's little substance to attractiveness or entertainment unless you enjoy the finer follies of life -- eating, shopping, and people watching, and that's what ranked this suspect city on my Latin list of Hot Spots.

A questionable dose of reality never hurt anyone. Sometimes, it takes a little entrapment with nothing really to do just to stop and look around to see the world for what it is. That's exactly what I did in sultry San Pedro Sula. For the adventurous, you too might be pleasantly persuaded.

Especially for budget travelers, I've already done the scouting. Here's credible reviews of where to sleep, eat, and shop. They're all downtown, which carouses and extols a Daily Street Fair muddled with vendors.

Browsing breaks graciously await in Parque Central; San Pedro's open-air IMAX that dilates viewpoints like nothing I'd ever experienced. Here, and the adjacent, imposing Cathedral, salvaged and soothed my arrest into just that -- a rest that was perfect for ending an elongated trip.

Make no mistake: This is not for everyone; even with the in-and-out approach. I gravitate towards larger cities, and am used to harsher environments that most find offensive. Fortunately, dread literally melted into diversion that was short-changed in trying to spend as little time here as possible.

Next time will be different, and yes I'm looking forward to it! Until then, I can now proudly appreciate and wear my Fruit of the Loom boxers; with the label that says: Hecho en Honduras.

Quick Tips:

Top-Notch Museums
El Museo de Anthropolgía y Historia de San Pedro Sula is one of the top-rated museums in all of Latin America, and was the only must see on my list. I was beyond miffed to find it closes on Tuesdays for cleaning -- unlike Lonely Planet's faulty info that says it's open everyday from 9:00am-4:00pm; until 3:00pm Sundays. There's an impressive Mayan stellae in the courtyard, which led to an outdoor cafeteria that was open. This museum is located 3-blocks north of Parque Central, on 3a Av NO.

LP says the Museo de la Naturaleza (Natural History) has worthy collections. It's part of the city park and Francisco Marazán stadium complex; 9 long-blocks west of Parque Central. Asking around, I got conflicting information whether this museum closed or not on Tuesdays. It was too far and too hot for more nothing. I'll be returning sooner than later, and these musuems are definitely priority.

More than a Mouthful!
With glut of food vendors, find one serving-up baleadas hot off the griddle. This regional specialty resembles burritos, but folded instead of rolled. Loaded with choices of ingredients, with meat is 15Lps; without 7. The lady, on southwest corner off the Cathedral, fixes some staggering spicy pork.

Pain in the ¿Cómo se Llama?
As a traveler, greatest hassle will likely come from roving money changers, with their fists full of dollars, lempiras, pesos, etc. They're rather persistent and must attract innocuous customers for them all to remain in business. Banks are everywhere should you need to change cash. Look at the bright side: How dangerous is downtown if they can fluctuate all day, without getting knocked-off?

-- Exchange rate 5/07: 18.9 Lempiras/(Lps) on the US.

Suck it up...
...and sweat it out! Figuring there was no need to stick-out more than I potentially would, the jeans stayed on and necessitated two changes of clothes during the day. The heat was only intensified in heart of the city. Sloppily-worn western attire is slowly creeping it's way into culture, but comfortable summer/beach-wear is not acceptable. Locals, both male and female, can break the taboo of wearing shorts. Travelers do so at your own risk of appearing disrespectful. Let's just say San Pedro Sula isn't the place to push any limits or flirt with potential trouble.

Best Way To Get Around:

Within the downtown area, walking is the quickest and most interesting way for getting around during the day. After years living in NYC and Spanish Harlem, this was nothing. Nevertheless, travelers not used to a city environment will likely feel intimidated and that's where dormant risk incubates. Unless you feel confident and at ease, take a taxi! No sense flying the red-flag of vulnerable prey.

Current set-price for taxis to-and-from the Airport is 200Lps; roughly one-way. The above link summarizes what travelers can expect with arrivals/departures at Aeropuerto Internacional Ramón Villeda Morales, but that's the easy part.

San Pedro Sula has became the main connecting point for everywhere within Honduras, including popular destinations. Until proposed international airports are built around the country, ground transportation is the norm and where things got interesting, if not down-right frustrating!

A new bus terminal has sat unoccupied for almost two years because operators refuse to use it and pay franchise fees. Long-haul bus companies, which would be of travelers' interest, had negotiated terms to begin usage 5/28/07. City drivers went on strike and barricaded all others within the new terminal.

Transportation was crippled for more than half the country. The normal 4-hour ride from Gracias took almost seven, hopping in-and-out of trucks, cars or whatever stopped along highways. Even worse, scalppers took full-advantage of even the locals; -fare on normal direct service turned into for me.

This penalty will hopefully be your privilege, seen as "progress". The centralized terminal will be massive improvement over individual lots scattered about the most undesirable parts of town. Until then, Hedman Alas is the luxury line, with fares almost triple of other companies, though travel times are roughly the same. They've also opened a mini-terminal at the airport.

El Rey Express and Casasola offer the same routes headed towards the Copán Valley. The latter two also use charter-type buses without the perks (including inaccessible restrooms). Schedules and travel times are also unreliable. For if-and-when, the modernized terminal should only improve accountability and service.

-- Public transportation ceases at dusk. Without Daylight Savings Time, that's earlier than expected. If your flight hasn't arrived in San Pedro Sula by 3:00pm, likely plan on spending the night.

-- Lonely Planet paints a very scarey picture of San Pedro city buses. True or not, there's no need to use them downtown.

Spending at least one night in San Pedro is almost unavoidable with flight schedules. Hence, traveler's need prepare for the good, the bad, and the really scuzzy! The city's accommodations are geared either towards business travelers with hefty expense accounts, or low-end local establishments. I must have looked through at least 8 options before settling into Hotel San José.

All things considered, it turned out to be quite the asylum; literally! The sterile halls looked like something out of an institution. Everything in rooms has Hotel San José written all over them -- I guess as a reminder should insanity knock, or to distract Norman Bates when stopping to read the shower curtain. Hey, it worked in more ways than one!

Considering other nearby alternatives costing somewhat more or even less, 150Lps/$7.50 is a steal for guests without paranoia of paybacks. The place felt safe, desk workers came across as helpful and trustworthy. Rooms were tidy, and cleaning staff even went as far as to place buckets full of water in the shower -- more than I got in most places during the prolonged dry season. That's your hint to check shower water pressure in even the exclusive joints!

The hotel has 40 rooms on three floors, of which I got to indulge two. First assignment was with a double bed, which hosted a solid nap. All was well until night when discovering bathroom light didn't work. Staff allowed me to raid bulb from an unoccupied room. When finding it was a fixture problem, they moved me to a larger room which had a single and double bed, that were just as comfortable.

Both rooms had ceiling fans, and I transferred the oscillating table fan; not that it was needed. The concrete structure retains coolness. Outer windows are small for keeping out the oppresive heat. Larger, slatted-crank windows open onto the interior hallway, which fostered a wind tunnel breeze. It also magnified noise; certainly not that it was a problem, but rooms toward end of hallways were definitely quieter.

-- Hotel San José is located on 6a Avenida SO, between 5a/6a Calles SO. (504-557-1208) Se hable español solamente. It's about a 3-block walk north towards Parque Central and heart of the downtown shopping district. The neighborhood declines with each block heading south. I definitely don't recommend wandering around after 9:00pm.

-- Tell the staff what time you're departing, and they'll have a taxi waiting. There are no clocks in rooms, or phones for wake-up calls. Plan ahead.

-- Some patrons obviously live full-time in the hotel. Of an evening, it's possible to join the crowd to watch telenovelas in the lobby. There's a reach-in cooler, with inexpensive soft drinks and bottled water.

Another alternative is Super Jugos, south and across the street at end of the block. For 16 or 25Lps, they blend tropical fruit smoothies (licuados), including some with granolas. The passion fruit and mango was a perfect nightcap.

Harrowing transportation experiences dictated many of my Honduran dining experiences, and arriving famished in San Pedro Sula was no different. Scouting around for a hotel revealed a deluge of eating establishments; the clown, the colonel, the king, the little red-headed girl, and comrades -- Americans that I avoid like the plague when at home. And there, like a beacon of impulse in the downtown area, was Cafetería Pamplona.

The menu board posted out front was rather confounding with numerous listings tightly scribbled en español. No deciphering was needed for the pair of platos del día, daily specials that lured me in.

Confusion stemmed from when the mesera quickly returned with arms-full of food, and started unloading. She confirmed, on her second trip back to the table with more, that there hadn't been any communication breakdown and I hadn't ended-up with both specials.

Would you look at that! All that food, as the daily lunch special, for only 38Lps - approximately $2!

I was expecting tortillas with consomé; a bowl of thick broth prepared with chicken stock and vegetables. The stuff is so good, (here no exception), I was hankering even with outdoor temps hovering near 100-degrees. What shocked me was everything else -- a quarter oven-roasted chicken topped with stewed veggies in salsa, the boiled/seasoned potato, rice and salad. Talk about meal for the day!

Gorging was only complimented with fresh-squeezed orange juice, brisk air-conditioning, and ambience "from home"; more nostalgic than any fast-food joint. This was a true blue diner; one of those extinct-type eateries that lives only in our memories from growing-up in America.

The place was rowdy and busy with ample seating in a dining room, but the real treat is one of those retro-dining counters; swivel stools and all. Older staff members were professional and efficient as part of old-school customer service that's become a lost art-form. This vintage script could've been from any Woolworths or Kresgee food counter of the 60's. This was San Pedro Sula, 2007!

Not counting sleep, I was only in town for about 10-hours or would've eaten here repeatedly. They're open for breakfast, lunch and dinner; steaks and paellas the only things costing more than $5.

Over the years of travels, I've stumbled upon some memorable dining experiences, and trashed Lonely Planets recommendations in the process. For much of Honduras dining, and Cafetería Pamplona, they finally got it right though I didn't read their actual recommendation until later:

"..the food is always good and service always friendly. Sometimes it's nice not to have to think too hard about where to eat. Don't be surprised if you come back more than once."

I couldn't agree more!

-- Address is listed as 2a Calle SO. Best way to pin-point location is on south side of Parque Central, across the busy pedestrianized street. I made my last-rounds around 7:30pm, and while Pamplona was still open, I don't recommend being out on-foot after 9:00pm.

-- 10%-tips are customary.

It was just there; this humongous structure of a church holding its own in the downtown area. What it lacked in height, compared to the neighboring skyline, it more than made up for in presence. There was nothing ornamental, decorative or even imaginative about the facade facing Parque Central, but it was compelling just the same. I couldn't seem to escape its aspect, nor tear my eyes away.

I'd yet to find a Cathedral open for browsing in Honduras; everything locked-up tight until mass. When bells started echoing through downtown at dusk, the 'call to worship' was more than anticipated. With no rush, I stayed in the park and surveyed the stream of parishers filing in for vespers. For the first time in a sweat-soaked day, I was thankful to have had the jeans on. I wouldn't have dared entered otherwise; you shouldn't either if inappropriately dressed.

It was time to acknowledge the calling card once music was audible, though I barely made it past the front door; stopped dead in my tracks from what I saw! Immenseness of the exterior housed an architectural wonder like nothing ever witnessed. The design, in shape of a Latin cross, was familiar but nothing more. There were no frills of intricacy. This was pure notion, plain and simple.

A series of mammoth archways hemmed the nave; the outer hallways as straight forward without side chapels. Perhaps most compelling were the vibrant colors which radiated a warmth unlike most darkened churches. Slipping along a side passage, the geometrical exhibitions were prismatic the way pastel yellow, orange and blue trimmed vantage points which shifted with every step. Reverence was awe.

No one seemed to mind discreetly looking around even when it came time for getting a better look at the central dome. Ceilings are frescoed with scenes of saints and apostles floating through heaven, but the style was modern. Perhaps even more confounding were stained-glass windows ablaze with sunset beyond. And what was up with the age-old symbol of the human eye inside the triangle?

Something about this Cathedral was as overwhelming as it was disturbing, which I wouldn't discover until later. San Pedro Sula's growth and wealth have only been recent. Parque Central and this spectacular Cathedral are rather new; the latter completed in 1959. I've seen so many of these historic landmarks, that's why this one just didn't fit. If anything, that's what makes this modern-day wonder all the more a must see because it's so unique!

-- In a disreputable city like this, I fully understand why they can't just leave the church unlocked for casual browers. Do yourself a favor and stick around to see if there's a daily 7pm mass. I got one on a Tuesday, but found/saw no schedules of services posted. Considering how little else there is to marvel in San Pedro, I don't think you'll be disappointed!

There's nothing like a good tourist trap, disguised as a crafts market, to make one resent yourself but there's something about these places that always reel me in - hook, line and sinker! San Pedro Sula's Mercado de Artesanias Guamilito proved to be another one of those stereotypical lessons I just can't seem to learn. Bargain busters and travel shopaholics likely recognize the antipathy.

This enclosed market area is huge, hot, and hellatious for starters. There's no way a person could possibly look at everything, and that's part of the madness! After the third or fourth vendor, you've seen 90% of the mass-quantity items for sale everywhere. It's that other 10% that's causes the predicament of an endless, futile search.

Hispanics have less sense of "personal space"; the young clerks working most these places even more clueless. Solo estoy mirando; "I'm only looking" did not buy any leisure or freedom, and I absconded numerous boothes hot and bothered! Don't hesitate to do the same.

I eventually found an American-born Honduran shopkeeper that was more than willing to let me browse while answering questions in English or Spanish. Turns out, many of the wares are handmade from numerous Central American countries; some more higher quality than others. From Honduras, the wood carvings and Lenca pottery were definitely the better buys provided you can actually get things home without breakage.

I cleaned-up on numerous smaller items as souvenir mementos to keep and distribute, and as cultural-related icons for the classroom. Things are priced for a little haggling; supposedly the more you buy nets the bigger discount. I ended-up spending $35; satisfied with selections, but more thankful just to have the shopping portion of the trip over and done with, or so I thought.

-- By fate of the power (and fans) going off for about 30 minutes, an outdoor retreat uncovered the floral section that runs on outer west side along 9a Ave NO. Garden junkies and botanical geeks definitely won't want to miss this as the cut flowers, arrangements, and accessories were amazing! It also made for colorful photo ops.

-- In the back portion is a tortillaría with endless boothes of women making tortillas and snacks to munch on. There's also numerous grocery counters, as are also across the street in a separate market which has both foods and restaurants.

-- The market is centered around 6a Calle NO, between 8a/9a Avs. NO, within walking distance of Parque Central. Neighborhood felt quite safe by day.

-- Hassle-Free Shopping There are three souvenir shops along 4a Av SO, in the pedestrianized block heading south off middle of Parque Central. I highly recommend Honduras Souvenirs (504-550-3169) for selections and prices. Even without haggling, don't be surprised to find better deals. I ended-up spending $58 here after the market. Why? Credit Cards accepted.

-- Street vendors sell downloaded local music, 5 cd's for 100Lps; about $1 each.

The downtown area is centered around Parque Central, and while that's no surprise for a Latin American city, your one-stop everything has never been so assaulting and enticing at the same time. San Pedro Sula's population isn't even close to one-million inhabitants, but you'd swear that many or more were swarming through the area at any given time!

The country's industrial blemish of a city is not attractive or inviting. Headlines and travelers' advisories only add to apprehensions. Unless planning to stay barricaded in stuffy rooms, you've got to get out and downtown is the place to be. For all that's probably unforgivable, Parque Central is like a safe zone that everyone shares and enjoys.

The large plaza maintains an outdoor haven with ample shade trees, flowering shrubs and gardens, and even fountains flowing into a meandering pool.

The gazebo was getting a fresh-coat of paint, and maintenance crews were fighting a losing, round-the-clock battle against litter. If traveling frequently in Latin America, you'll understand.

Unless you're prone to shopping or gorging, there's not a lot to do in the immediate area though a person could loose all track of time simply people watching. The circulating frenzy was absolutely amazing; San Pedro Sula on parade like a circus without the big-top as every faction of society stars in their own personal center-ring. They say "it takes all kinds", and you're sure to spot them here.

Not that there were any locations more prime than others, but I definitely recommend moving around and changing vantage points. During my dispersed gawk-sessions, I never saw any other travelers and while no one went out of their way to chat or make me feel welcomed, I also never felt unwelcomed. Unlike their cordial country cousins, these were definitely city folks; off in their own little worlds whether shared or alone.

Roving vendors of all ages had something to sell, and the polaroid photographers provided the best images from both sides of the perspectives. Latinos in these poorer countries always impress me with what they'll do to earn (or spend) a buck. Just as tell-tale, no one begged or asked for money.

The park area stayed quite active right up until dusk, which without Daylight Savings Time meant things started clearing-out by 6:30pm. The sparse crowds definitely shifted towards younger riff-raff, junky-types, and raving pájaro drag-queens. Conditions still never felt dangerous or threatening, but even locals advise not to be walking around downtown after 9pm or so. From what little I saw, I'd have to agree.

-- Attempting to blend-in is part of the free escort to a frontrow seat for everything. Having camera out, constantly aimed is not only potentially offensive, it's asking for a snatch-and-run within crowds like this! Enjoy the show, but don't let your guard too down or become overly distracted.

Getting in/out of Honduras has never been easier thanks to Aeropuerto Internacional Ramón Villeda Morales; the newly renovated facility 15km outside San Pedro Sula. Considering location, this is the best option for making connections to the country's most popular sites, including the Copán Archeological Ruins and the Bay Islands. Industrial nature of this region keeps the airport busy with frequent global business travelers unlike in Tegucigalpa; the Capital's less-frequented airport.

TACA and Copa have daily flights, connecting through other Central American cities. Delta and Continental offer daily international service from the States as does American, which I flew.

American's flights are based from Miami International, with roughly a two-hour gate-to-gate time for San Pedro Sula. They've a couple of daily flights, arriving around 12:30pm and 5:30pm. If schedules permit, I highly recommend the earlier flight. Honduras doesn't acknowledge Daylight Savings Time, it's dark before 7:00pm. Bus transportaion has already ceased for the day, and orientation to San Pedro is overwhelming enough by day; little alone after dusk!

-- AA-frequent flier award flights are based at 35K-miles. Shoulder/Off-Season usually nets at least a 5K-savings. For CitiAAdvantage card members, both San Pedro Sula and Tegucigalpa regularly appear on quarterly Discount Mileage Awards lists. Using this, and another promotion offered with the new AAmExpress Citicard, I got round-trip flights from the midwest for 17,200-miles and $42.50, which included all taxes and the $15 booking fee by phone. Special awards can't be booked online.

Arriving in Honduras
All necessary forms are distributed on the plane, and must be completed before passing through immigration. There is no official tourist card or entry fees. In fact, hallway signs proclaim, 'Welcome to Honduras; it's Free to enter our country'. As hospitable as that sounds, they get you on the way out!

Officials scan and stamp passports, as well as staple necessary documents onto passport pages. Luggage carousels are beyond as are another set of customs inspectors. All items must pass through x-ray. From here, travelers were waved-on while nationals and businessmen had belongings thoroughly inspected.

Exchanging Currency
The main terminal area is rather confounding with that first blast of tropical heat. There was no signage for navigating through the beehive of activities, including the onslaught of individuals with fists full of Lempiras; the official local currency. I eventually discovered that independent money changers offer the going rate, but be wary about digging into stashes amid so many distractions, which invite potential theft!

On far-side of the concourse is a small bank branch, where I recommend exchanging currency just to be safe. Lempiras, simply referred to as "Lemps" and designated Lps on prices, have a stable history against the American-$. In 5/07, exchange rate was holding at 18.9. Also, there's no transaction fee.

-- The bank also converts Travelers Cheques and gives cash advances on credit cards. Otherwise, these forms of payment are accepted in only the most heavily-frequented tourist areas, and are hit-and-miss even in San Pedro Sula businesses. Banks in remote towns don't have ATM's, but at least will exchange currency since Casas de Cambios are rare.

Beyond the Airport
Future plans call for new international airports scattered around the country, including the Copán region, and Gracias -- heart of the Ruta Lenca. In the meantime, ground transportation is the only way for getting around.

Hedman Alas is the premier bus company, at almost triple the rates of other outfits. While travel times are basically the same, inflation is justified by luxury service including air-conditioning, onboard snacks and entertainment, and restrooms that actually function. They've recently opened a terminal at the airport, which spares further hassle if connections can be coordinated. Otherwise travelers must venture into the City, which was not an impressionable way to begin!

Taxi drivers quickly zero-in on potential prey, asking $20 though the going rate is either $10 or Lps200. Basic Spanish can help stand your ground, but there's no reason to pay anything more! Arriving early enough to make a bus connection will actually determine where you need to go, and where things got rather confusing.

I was headed for Copán, and while I could've caught a Hedman Alas bus at the airport or at their in-town terminal, El Rey Express and Casasola offered the same routes for $5.29/Lps100. Requesting El Rey with time to catch a listed 1:30pm departure, driver inadvertantly dropped me off at the unmarked Casasola lot; perhaps because it was closer.

By time I discovered the mix-up, it was too late. Casasola's listed last departure at 2:40pm was actually 3:30pm, leaving more than 2-hours to kill in a very desolate, impoverished area. Quite honestly, I was too paranoid to venture far beyond, or purchase anything more than bottled water amid the filth. There were no restrooms; guys told to pee anywhere, while who knows how females manage.

Unfortunately, these are the first perceptions most will have of the Country and San Pedro Sula; especially budget travelers! When later returning to the City, I would find the Rey Express lot just as haphazard and chaotic, though thankfully San Pedro had more than just these highly suspect areas.

-- Hope For the Future includes a new Bus Terminal, completed more than a year ago but sitting vacant because transportation companies have refused to use it! A major resistance had begun on 5/28/07 when smaller city buslines blockaded all major companies' buses within the new terminal, after they agreed to begin usage that morning. However, that's a start and hopefully the problem will be solved sooner than later.

-- Once the new terminal is up-and-running, expect cab fares to rise to/from airport. It wouldn't surprise me if the rate doubled to $20/Lps400 because it's in the opposite direction from the airport, another 5km south of the City.

Departing from Honduras
Arriving two-hours before departure is recommended, but quite frankly I was shocked that the whole procedure was quick and effecient at every check-point; even with waiting lines!

The entry level is expansive, with plenty of seating before passing through checkpoints. Off the central fountain is a Coffeeshop Kiosk; a large negro costing 14Lps. For those wanting a bit more, there's also Wendy's on the far end. The giftshop closest to Wendy's had the best slections, but outrageous prices. Smaller one towards the middle offered less, but had 15%-discounts on everything.

On the upper-level, passengers must first pass through immigration/customs, which was rather backasswards. They'll ask to see passport, but didn't bother with exit stamps or declaration of goods. Main concern is paying Departure Tax of 627Lps or $33.19. And yes, they expect that 19¢! If paying in dollars but don't have coins, 4Lps covered the difference. If using dollars, I recommend exact amounts because any change is returned in Lempiras.

-- A large 'Taxes Paid' receipt will be stapled to ticket envelopes. This is your ticket out of the country!

Security checkpoints were very casual, and handled with more respect and dignity than you'll ever get at an American airport. The x-ray technician obviously spotted a cigarette lighter tossed into the jumbled abyss of my backpack. An officer checked through pockets, took a couple of things out, but gave-up without further asking. (Nothing supposedly illegal was even detected or questioned at Miami or Dallas).

The whole 3-1-1 business was also very nonchalant. I had a 3-oz bottle of mouthwash in a clear zip-lock stashed within my backpack, and never kept it out nor was asked to at any airport. At San Pedro Sula, bottled water wasn't even an issue. Before boarding the plane, there's a table where passengers are expected to voluntarily leave any deviant contraband. Otherwise, no one was thoroughly searching carry-on contents.

The waiting area has a small snackbar and pair of souvenir kiosks. As an added bonus, I'm always impressed that AA distributes snack bags when leaving Central America. This one contained ham and cheese croissant, small pastry and a banana; more than you'd ever get within the States, including on Miami international departures.

Duty Free Shopping
There's only one store, but a big one! Aside from perfumes, cigars and what you'd expect, a 10-pack $18 carton of cigarettes might be cheaper than the States, but hardly a deal when individual packs never cost more than $1.30 in the city; 90¢ in rural areas. Best buys are wines and liquors; selections quite impressive. I loaded up on Barceló Añejo; a superbly aged, dark Rum from the Dominican Republic, for $8 a 750ml-bottle. Purchases are delivered to departure gates.

-- Here's the quandry: From Honduras, there's no problem taking perfumes and liquors onboard as carry-on luggage. However, once arriving in Miami and passing through customs, items must be packed into checked luggage before they're reprocessed for connecting flights. Otherwise, they're confiscated at the next security checkpoint.