Livid! in Livingston

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A May 2007 trip to Livingston by Jose Kevo

Like a big ol Chicken! Photo - Livingston, Guatemala

Quote: Heading-off to unknown destinations is always purely speculative. To date, this controversial and menacing environment goes down as my all-time bust!

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Livid! in Livingston

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Overview

Livingston Character Photo - Livingston, Guatemala

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What was to be the pinnacle of a 10-day Central American adventure literally sent me packing within 24-hours thanks to a milieu of mishaps, still contemptible almost one-year after the fact! Personalized traumas and dramas may have subsided, but there’s no filtering the bitter objectives towards blasting the town of Livingston – supposedly Guatemala’s funky little seaside Hot Spot.The town is unique with its blending of Caribbean, African and Latino heritages. Architectural styles were primitive yet colorful along active streets. Intriguing ...Read More

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Hotel Caribe

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Hotel

Best for the Least Photo - Livingston, Guatemala

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After thoroughly scouting around town, settling into Hotel Caribe was definitely the best of the least for budget accommodations. The establishment has numerous rooms that sleep anywhere between two-to-eight people. If one can survive with bare-bone basics, this place might even prove rather homey.Unlike too many over-priced, darkened and dingy rooms found around town, Hotel Caribe was like a breath of fresh air – literally. Curtainless windows provide natural illumination. A large sitting room in the back, facing the Río Dulce, had refreshing breezes whipping through hallways....Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on April 22, 2008

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Casa de la Iguana

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Hotel

Private Cabañas Photo - Livingston, Guatemala

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Initially turned-off by the aggressive dockside touts pushing flyers and trying to lure new arrivals, the around-town marketing blitz had captured some curiosity when finally coming to this place at far end of the riverside/coastal road. So exactly what was all the fuss about? Plenty, and while I didn’t actually stay at Casa de la Iguana, I’m recommending this as the place to be for anyone that insists on coming to Livingston.Not only is this new facility compound removed from all the nonsense of town, its well off the road along a path that follows a wall before opening on edge of the jungle. The haven that awaited is exactly what the Livingston traveler needs!Casa d...Read More

Initially turned-off by the aggressive dockside touts pushing flyers and trying to lure new arrivals, the around-town marketing blitz had captured some curiosity when finally coming to this place at far end of the riverside/coastal road. So exactly what was all the fuss about? Plenty, and while I didn’t actually stay at Casa de la Iguana, I’m recommending this as the place to be for anyone that insists on coming to Livingston.

Not only is this new facility compound removed from all the nonsense of town, its well off the road along a path that follows a wall before opening on edge of the jungle. The haven that awaited is exactly what the Livingston traveler needs!

Casa de la Iguana has taken the communal approach with mass-appeal to the younger hostel-backpackers crowd, but also style and elegance that could certainly appeal to older, seasoned travelers, too!

With plans to expand, this work-in-progress currently has three bungalows that go for Q120/$16 a night, and they’ll allow as many in your party as you’d like to cram-in. Most popular are dorm rooms which go for Q35/$4.65 a night. While having male and female bunkhouses located on two levels, popularity often keeps them co-ed and occupied As if the floors and space weren’t crowded enough, they’ll hang elevated hammocks (in bungalows, too) to insure everyone has a space to sleep.

Casa de la Iguana proudly advertises to have the only hot showers in town; not that you’d need or necessarily want one in the steamy environment.

The private and shared bathrooms appear a little rough, despite creative designing by the owner. On-going upgrades were all part of the plan. At least they were in working-order with adequate water and pressure - something not to be taken for granted when traveling in Latin América.

The edenistic garden is lush on the jungle’s edge. They also allow camping around the lawn. Bring your own equipment, or settle in to one of the numerous outdoor hammocks strung about. A palm-thatched, open-air pavilion serves as the restaurant, bar and lounging area. Anyone is welcome to stop for daily breakfasts, from 7am-11am for Q15-Q20, or family dinners nightly at 7pm with a 15Q vegetarian plate or 20Q meat option. Happy Hour runs from 6pm-8pm.

I had been invited back for dinner the following night, and regret leaving town early for missing out on the experience. I recognized a guest on the departing boat from Livingston and he admitted to holing-up for three days to enjoy lounging around the garden and bar, simply reading.

The young expat owners’ name is Rusty, and the assembled, eclectic staff seemed to be mostly guests that had decided to stay in exchange for work. Reservations can be made from calling 502-7947-0064 or at rusty101_OZ@hotmail.com.

In addition to expansion, they also hoped to have an official website soon. Googled results don’t turn-up a website, but there’s a rather surprising mixed bag of opinions for people that actually stayed here, including jungle bugs and crowing roosters.

One area of comments worth noting are the Group Excursions that Casa de la Iguana helps arrange through a guide named Francis, operating out of McTropic Restaurant. The blog reviews say it’s not worth paying for the escort for things that can be independently accomplished; the Siete Altares waterfall hike costing Q50/$6.65! Rusty had called to arrange this "daily trip" for me the following morning. After waiting several hours, the guy never showed and I was told it was because he’d been out on tour the day before. Beware of what you’re promised and expect!
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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 22, 2008

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Restaurante Bahía Azul

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Restaurant

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Recommended as Livingston’s hallmark for dining, Restaurante Bahía Azul was my first stop after settling-in. Actually, it was in trying to pin-down details with Exotic Travel Excursions, which operates out of the dining room. While owner had pulled a vanishing act for the week, smells wafting from the kitchen indicated everything else was business as usual.Specializing in casual atmosphere, the place leaves no doubt this is Guatemala’s Caribbean! Main dining room is rather rustic with ample wooden tables, and chairs and décor that celebrates local Garifuna heritage, but it was the large, covered porch patio that st...Read More

Recommended as Livingston’s hallmark for dining, Restaurante Bahía Azul was my first stop after settling-in. Actually, it was in trying to pin-down details with Exotic Travel Excursions, which operates out of the dining room. While owner had pulled a vanishing act for the week, smells wafting from the kitchen indicated everything else was business as usual.

Specializing in casual atmosphere, the place leaves no doubt this is Guatemala’s Caribbean! Main dining room is rather rustic with ample wooden tables, and chairs and décor that celebrates local Garifuna heritage, but it was the large, covered porch patio that steps this place up on the preferred list. In Latin America’s world of plastic, tables were graced with colorful linens while chairs had cloth coverings; an added touch of effort that lends an upscale environment not reflected in prices.

Unfortunately, think twice about sitting outside to enjoy meals whether here or any number of Livingston eateries that have outdoor dining. Customers became easy targets for beggars in the streets asking for food, cigarettes, money or trying to make conversation while eating. Staff had no action or reaction towards them bothering customers.

Deciding on a calamari platter for Q45/$6, I’d barely gotten into my tableside distractions when food quickly arrived. At first glance, the segregated presentation reminded me of something out of an Asian restaurant with the separate piles of sautéed squid, and stir-fry veggies with a white rice compote. The baby squid had been prepared to a proper chewy texture without becoming like rubber. Seasonings in the sauce were unique and hard to distinguish but something had a hint of coconut. After about the third bite, I took my fork and swirled everything together which only enhanced flavor.

The extensive menu features options for three meals a day; standard breakfast platters priced between Q20-Q35, and available at any hour. Fresh seafoods are said to be the house specialties, and deciding exactly where to begin was quite the challenge. Shrimp dishes, prepared in a confounding variety of ways, are the most expensive selections at Q65-Q75. Otherwise, all else was below Q50.

Bahía Azul also serves up a version of Tapado; a rich blend of fish, shrimp and other shellfish with chunks of coconut and plantain in a rich, hearty stew. This local specialty is served in most every restaurant; large servings priced anywhere from $9 and up. I’d planned on eventually trying a bowl, despite the thought of eating soup in such a hot climate, but unfortunately left town before having any opportunity.

The restaurant is located on left side of the main road which runs uphill from the docks; you can’t or won’t miss it. While I highly recommend the food, you’re on your own with what to expect from the excursion company.
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on April 22, 2008

Restaurante Bahía Azul
Left Side Of Main Road Up The Hill From The Docks
Livingston, Guatemala

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Restaurante El Malecón

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Restaurant

Quote:

Making a split decision to get the hell out of dodge, there was enough rationality to eat something before leaving. Restaurante El Malecón fit the bill in a way that only corroborates my unusual cache of Livingston hauntings.Entering the empty establishment, it took a bit for the portly pair behind the counter to realize they had a customer. The undeniable mother-daughter duo were even more curious acting than looking. Pear-shaped figures, pasted-down hair, and pencil-thin fuzz on the upper lip reminded me of Russian nesting dolls – one just big enough to enfold the other inside! Awkward fuss ensured over whether to order from a large take-out counter or be seated first. I chos...Read More

Making a split decision to get the hell out of dodge, there was enough rationality to eat something before leaving. Restaurante El Malecón fit the bill in a way that only corroborates my unusual cache of Livingston hauntings.

Entering the empty establishment, it took a bit for the portly pair behind the counter to realize they had a customer. The undeniable mother-daughter duo were even more curious acting than looking. Pear-shaped figures, pasted-down hair, and pencil-thin fuzz on the upper lip reminded me of Russian nesting dolls – one just big enough to enfold the other inside! Awkward fuss ensured over whether to order from a large take-out counter or be seated first. I chose the counter, and snagged a menu to further review.

Shrinking into a table, I was relieved about leaving this disreputable destination. With no plan or idea where to head next, gathering wits was accompanied by perusing guidebooks. Younger of the strange characters brought my cup of coffee with a gauche hovering that lingered a bit long. Short on patience, a tilted head and probable silent glare of "what", sent them scurrying behind the counter.

Considering this would be a fourth coffee for the morning, first sips only compounded tense demeanor. A pair of teenage girls emerged from the kitchen; playing some local version of patty-cake. The younger unsightly-type made a flamboyant effort to join-in, only further deterring what had been a peaceful environment. Obvious kinfolk; all of them, but initial two had definitely been short-changed in the gene-pool.

Once served, my hesitation invited another dawdle. Waving off the mousey-sounding ¿algo más?, I was simply waiting to get the dutiful photo before digging in! Samplings were similar to previous day’s breakfast up the river in Río Dulce, except in bigger portions. Scrambled eggs were light and fluffy with thin slices of minced ham, but hardly the highlight.

It might have only been my fifth morning in Central America, but I was excited to have actual bread; already a nice break from bland corn tortillas. The butter wasn’t quite as bitter which only complimented the spread with refried beans, textured like jam. It didn’t take much to clean my plate.

Final sip of coffee was symbolic for knowing I was done with Livingston, but not without one last far-fetched episode. Not waiting for the bill, I headed for the counter. Amid trying to recall and tally selections, another lady came from the kitchen and immediately took charge while issuing instructions.

Preparing to out for the morning, she asked her two daughters to do some cleaning in the kitchen. Younger of the nesting dolls was instructed to mind the front while the older one was obviously left in charge. About the older one - she bent down and left a peck on the cheek of her husband. Father/son? Go figure! Guess it truly was a family-oriented business!

-- Restaurante El Malecón is located on the left, where main street begins climbing the hill from the dock towards central Livingston. For anyone staying along the coastal road, this place is recommended simply for convenience. Set hours weren’t posted; the place large enough that reservations shouldn’t be needed on even the busiest of occasions.

-- Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, standard fare was all priced under Q50 except for steaks and seafood. Breakfast platter pictured in this review, with a cup of coffee, was Q20/$2.66.
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on April 22, 2008

Restaurante El Malecón
Left Side Of Main Road Up The Hill From The Docks
Livingston, Guatemala

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Road Warrior; a Traveler’s Worst Nightmares

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Story/Tip

Quote:

The only thing missing from this 66-th journal is another 6 ! Livingston turned-out to be nothing short of an evil eden; a pandora’s box of seething social adversity for Guatemala’s Caribbean nerve center. Various resources make the generic claim that crime-related incidents against travelers has improved, and perhaps they have. What that doesn’t take into consideration are blatant, age-old problems of communal catastrophe that could leave visitors caught in the cross-fire; literally!Progress or not, unsuspecting travelers should acknowledge that issues have taken generations to create, and will require as long to rectify. Bitter roots run deep for ...Read More