Fast Forward – The Unexpected Copán

Visiting Copán Archaeological Park is why everyone comes to this outback area of Honduras. But with growing lists of regional activities, Copán Ruinas could’ve gratified better part of my 10-day itinerary, and it was my loss that it didn’t.

As a frequent traveler, there’s been one too many tourist trap encounters where "get rich quick" attractions saturate around destinations which have one major draw. Jaded skepticisms filtered the potential opportunities listed in guidebooks and websites. Besides, what could possibly compete with the Mayan ruins? Plenty, including the town itself.

As detailed, Copán Ruinas exceeded every expectation with a modernized approach that hadn’t compromised historical or cultural significance. For travelers that appraise authenticity, you’ll strike the mother lode here without sacrificing creature comforts – all the more reason to settle-in and enjoy the area and abundance of activities for all they're worth!

Returning from the ruins at 1:30pm, mission had been accomplished. I was more than ready for a siesta until seeing the town bustling with daily activities. Getting swept away in the unexcitable doings conjured a sense of panic. No considerations had even been given towards other promising pleasures. Ravenous, I didn’t even stop for lunch!

This collection of musings derives from inspired determination to make the most of Copán Ruinas before sundown. Lonely Planet’s skimpy reviews suddenly became convincing when standing outside an entrance, with clock ticking. They mostly got things right in the 2006 Honduras edition except for Mirador El Cuartel. And grossly understated, Macaw Mountain Bird Park was an exquisite highlight.


While the ruins and these activities were jam-packed into one day, I’d much rather have planned a longer, more leisurely stay. Descendants of the Mayas and their age-old customs and traditions were perhaps the most intriguing, inspirational of unlisted "attractions". Exploring the town’s less-traversed streets and pathways doesn’t get any better than this for embracing earlier periods still thriving today. Approving of numerous encounters, casual explorations were definitely curtailed, short-changed in the rush.

Had I known plans in Guatemala would turn out such a bust, gut-instincts would’ve kept me right where I was. Honduras won me over through and through, and Copán Ruinas will sometime get the extended stay it deserves. In the meantime, don’t make the mistake that I did and plan to move on too quickly – regardless of what you come looking for.

Quick Tips:

Already Preparing For the Next Time!
Considering this entire trip was a last-minute whim, planning didn’t render much beyond mapping itinerary, and a guidebook not taken seriously until too late. This website has a comprehensive listing of cultural and adventure-related excursions. What’s not on that list is Enchanted Wings Butterfly Garden & Orchid Exhibits, nor Macaw Mountain Bird Park & Nature Reserve; certainly worth a repeat!

Laid-Back Locals
Part of the appeal is that everything moves at a much slower pace within the Copán Valley, without compromising expectations that often frustrates Latin America travelers. Thanks to Peace Corps involvement and Japanese financial investing, aspects of tourism are top-notch and thorough, including apparent abilities to deliver what’s promised, within timely manner! The majority of establishments and excursion companies are locally-owned, and I was surprised to find so many bilingual staff.

Seasonal Selections
Tubing the Copán River with a cooler of Salva Vida, the local cerveza which translates "lifeguard", sounds too good to resist but wouldn’t have even been possible if time permitted during this late-May visit. Honduras had yet to see a drop of moisture for early stages of the rainy season and everything was bone dry! For trekking and explorations, weather couldn’t have been better but water shortages were affecting even thermal spring levels.

Diversities in terrains constitute some stage of the rainy season, throughout the mainland and Bay Islands, in every month except February and March. But weather in this middle section of Central America is becoming more unpredictable on an annual basis with extremes of severe unseasonal droughts vs. devastating hurricanes, flooding and mudslides. Depending on where you plan to visit and what types of activities are preferred, climate changes should definitely be taken into consideration.

Freeze-Frame Melt Down
Deciding to take this trip wasn’t the only impulsive decision. After years of prodding from other Igo members, I finally made the photographic leap to digital and never looked back; well, unless to snap yet another photo!

The FUJI FinePix S5700 prices around and was highly recommended as a fully-loaded, easy to operate camera for beginners. With only a couple of days orientation, I never moved beyond Auto-mode but couldn’t have been more exhilarated, nor could I have chosen a more Photogenic Destination for getting started!

Best Way To Get Around:

There’s no better way for getting a genuine imprint of Copán Ruinas than by ambling around the cobblestoned streets, day or night. Seeing is believing; especially for realizing that for once the travel and tourism foray seems to have gotten things right for a change. Most everything a visitor could ever want or need is within a 3-block radius of Parque Central, including hotels, restaurants and bars, and offices for excursion and transportation companies.


Perhaps the most undervalued attribute is most of the central area is still a thriving residential area that openly co-exists with modernizations. Reaching this destination for only the nearby ruins would seem biased without also appreciating the general population is descended from the Maya. Lifestyles that have evolved over the centuries are on daily display as living history.

Safety, or even feeling uncomfortable, was never an issue. Locals were friendly and seemed genuinely interested that an outsider would see them as anything but invisible – even in the outskirts area where poverty is undeniable.

-- To make the most of even limited explorations, or even finding your way around the main attractions, travelers need a basic map of the town; preferably one from a guidebook that has necessities already keyed. Streets have no names and buildings no numbers.

-- Each of these reviews has general directions included with everything in relation to Parque Central. Lonely Planet’s map of the town already has most everything listed except for the behind the scenes City Market.


Moto-Taxis regularly zip around town and can spare walking some fairly steep streets which no map can indicate. These forms of public transportation also serve the out-lying areas including the Archaeological Park, Macaw Mountain, Enchanted Wings, and other area attractions. Fares are supposedly pre-set per passenger, but make sure price is agreed upon before taking-off.

-- While moto-taxis are easy to flag-down from about anywhere, they also seem to collect along northern side of Parque Central. Availabilities decrease after dark as does transportation-related travel in general.

-- The 3+-km, one-way cost to Macaw Mountain was 20Lps; about US. One of my favorite Copán experiences was opting for the downhill walk back into town.

Just for Kicks…
Fútbol/soccer fans can catch games or intense practice scrimmages at the main field. The walled complex is on northeast corner of the first intersection when entering town from the east.

The local market of Copán Ruinas isn’t the biggest or most exciting. What it lacks in size and selection was surpassed in the satisfaction of actually finding it thanks to a hidden location that appears to have eluded even the most thorough travel authors.

The main street which heads west along southern border of Parque Central had always appeared quite active, and I’d already traversed it numerous times including for dining at La Llama del Bosque. Large building on the corner had already struck me somewhat odd. Walls on the two exposed sides were lined with narrow doors. Above each was metal Coca-Cola sign that said Pulpería ?, with owner’s name.

Pulperias are the equivalents of colmados and bodegas in the Spanish Caribbean; little general stores that sell a bit of everything. There always seemed to be locals congregating around this block. What I didn’t understand was how these places could turn much of a profit with such wall-to-wall competition. From the street, most pulperias looked cramped and darkened through door after door until coming to one which was framed with vividness of something beyond.

Purely by chance, I had stumbled onto the regional outdoor market and got the very distinct feeling few outsiders ever had. Vendors immediately swept me away in a wave of hospitality; perhaps hoping to make a sale (though there were no aggressive tactics) but also just as curious about me as I was of them.


The concealed courtyard has a partial roof; sunlight further illuminating the colorful array of local products for great photo opps no one seemed to mind. The mounds of fresh produce looked absolutely mouth-watering; especially humongous mangos costing about a quarter. There were also numerous items I’d never seen before; vendors quick to offer an explanation while slicing-off a sample.

When arriving in any new destination, there’s no better place for checking pulse of the people than in the local market. Speaking the language also helps for getting the real scoop on what’s happening around town. Considering this was my first market experience for Honduras, I was impressed. Individual stalls were cluttered but neat as a pin, and the cultural encounters just another highlight of my brief stay.

On the way out, a gentleman presented me with a complimentary hand-rolled cigar. Figuring I’d enjoy it with an ice-cold Coke, I made my purchase and headed up the block towards Parque Central. Selecting a prime shaded spot with superb view to match, I fired that sucker up! After about the third draw the coke started to feel like it was boiling in my stomach and gills were turning as green as the park’s gardens.

¡Ay, Dios Mío!

-- The market begins stirring about 7:00am and closes around sundown. While there are other pulperias scattered around town, I saw no official grocery stores. If planning an extended stay, this was certainly the place for stocking munchies in hotel rooms or picking-up toiletries or necessary items.

Up at the crack of dawn on my first morning in town was a welcomed opportunity for watching the sun rise from Mirador El Cuartel. Lonely Planet listed this offering as "a fine view over the fertile Copanean Valley". With mirador in the name, which translates vantage-point, there surely was something worth seeing. And there was – about any and everything except an actual vista!

The old jail crowns the hill resembling something like an abandoned fortress or castle. Turrets anchor the four corners which looked rather promising upon approach. However, the morning haze wasn’t enough to conceal structure walls in various stages of decay, nor that litter only contributed to the war zone-effect. Deciding to poke around inside, the jail’s interior now hosts a shabby community soccer field.

I’m not sure why but later realized I hadn’t checked to see if any of the towers had accessible staircases for perhaps getting the views that were promised. Instead I walked the residential streets which surround the structure and found that vegetation growth had limited even the briefest of outlook perspectives. While that was rather a disappointment, opportunities for explorations were hardly wasted.

Not much stirs in Copán Ruinas before 6:00am, and the walk was even more enjoyable from making closer investigations when no one’s around to discourage privacy infringements. Beyond the town’s central area, lifestyles are humble if not out-right impoverished. While some might find this area intimidating even during the mid-day, the crude exposures were all part of the Central American travel experience.

Lonely Planet says the Mirador el Cuartel is five blocks north of Parque Central, which it was off the northwest corner. What it doesn’t bother to mention, nor will any map indicate, is the steep uphill climb required for heading anywhere in this direction. Best ‘mirador’ of the entire morning came from standing on top of the hill and looking back down the cobblestone street as it rolled-off towards Parque Central.


Hotel Calle Real (504-651-4320) is at about the midway point between top and bottom, and is supposedly one of the better inexpensive accommodation options in Copán Ruinas. The main gate was still locked early of a morning and while appearances looked nice from the street, there’s no way I would want to haul luggage up that hill or repeatedly make the climb coming in and out. If you’re looking for someplace to stay in town that doesn’t break your back or your budget, here it is.

Waiting like an oasis at the end of a long day’s worth of sightseeing, I hobbled into Recreational Center Camino Maya by chance, and probably would’ve altered the day’s itinerary if knowing the reality existed beyond yet another review listing. The facility sprawls like a local’s Country Club, where everyone is welcome including random travelers.

Size of the parking lot indicates how busy things must get. Supposedly on weekends, this is the round-the-clock place to see and be seen thanks to a couple of popular restaurants and an active bar and discoteque. Even on a weekday, the apparent party had started early when Reggaeton was heard pulsing across the valley while walking back from the Archaeological Park. Unfortunately, things had "ton"ed-down by time I arrived hours later.

The children’s recreational playground and picnic areas were swarming with families enjoying a birthday party. Rowdy kids and unavailable hammocks weren’t what kept me from sticking around. It was presence of a costumed adult posing as Barney, complete with all the obnoxious songs en español now dominating sound systems!

Otherwise, I could’ve easily forced myself back to the bunk for retrieving swimming trunks and frittering away the evening poolside. After the long day of trekking around, it would have made for a perfect ending. Besides, gardens aren’t the only things of "lush" quality considering inexpensive prices at the poolside bar. Mixed drinks are a couple of dollars as was admission for swimming. Instead, I did $1 long-necks on the walk home.

Even if you’re not part of the pool or party scene, the Spanish-hacienda styled facilities still harbor plenty of relaxation and beauty. Several pathes trailed-off towards the river through gardens which were teeming with tropical blossoms and fragrances.

If and when returning to Copán Ruinas and definitely planning a longer stay, the Recreational Center will certainly be a welcomed addition to any scenario. Until then, it’s certainly worth mentioning to other potential travelers.

-- This is part of the popular Hotel Camino Maya, located off southwest corner of Parque Central. Click on that website’s Location-link and use the bottom map for pinpointing the hotel and recreational center. The walk back into town is uphill but nothing too strenuous. Moto-taxis were frequently buzzing around as an alternative.

After spending better part of a day exploring the nearby Copán Archaeological Park, it was hard to justify trying to grasp what would undoubtedly be more of the same, on a much smaller scale. I’d bypassed the museum a couple of times before figuring 'I might as well since I’m here’, and glad I conceded.

Beyond more ruin relics, collections focused towards Mayan culture including language, tribal traditions, and relevant evidence into their intellect and wisdoms – much greater than anything found within the park. I lost all track of time reading placard information explaining how these master astronomists used stars to devise a long-count calendar and calculate time before it was ever thought to exist. Their systems were further perfected by using the concept of 0-zero; something "civilized" Greek mathematicians debated for years.


While I found all this supportive information fascinating, most visitors will not since little to nothing is bilingual. Even with familiarity of Spanish, vocabulary describing these advanced concepts required filling-in the blanks, and the security guard which trailed me through the exhibition halls only helped with guessing games since he spoke no English.

That said, there were still plenty of unique finds that were easier to digest since there weren’t so many. The collection of earthen vessels and pottery were much more than expected; the priceless pieces individually showcased perhaps as the main attractions. Photos are allowed throughout the museum, and I highly recommend using a digital non-reflective "museum mode". Even then, thickness of glass casings and lighting made capturing the centuries-old colors almost impossible.

The other items worth pause and attention are the series of small statues depicting various chiefs and leaders of the Copán and Mayan dynasties. While the bodies were rather plain, the heads appear to swell with the ornate headdresses embellished with intricate detail.

There were also several smaller groupings of jewelry, weapons and bones which aren’t found at the Park’s museum. The similar, original stone carvings of stelae, tombs, altars and other artifacts were also extraordinary without being overwhelming en-masse.

I can’t imagine anyone coming to the Copán area and not planning to visit the Archaeological Park. If so, don’t miss this museum. Otherwise, it is a welcomed supplement only if interests and schedules permit.

-- Museum is located off the southwest corner of Parque Central, and is between the park and the pulperias/market. Admission is US$3/60Lps for adults. LP’s hours of operation are listed as 8:00am-4:00pm, Monday-Saturday. Even if those are correct, cut-and-dried schedules don’t mean much anywhere in Latin America.

-- Casa K’inch is a free children’s museum across from north side of Parque Central. It’s toward rear of a larger compound that looks totally neglected. Perhaps you’ll get more out of the limited interactive displays than I did. Check it out if you’ve got 5-extra minutes to spare.

With plenty of daylight remaining after scouring the ruins and town, Macaw Mountain Bird Park & Nature Reserve toyed with attention. The $10-admission fee was certainly pricey; especially if the place turned-out to be nothing more than a tourist trap. Well it wasn’t. In fact, it proved more than just a superb collection of tropical birds!


This nature reserve sprawls like a seventh heaven on side of a mountain north of town. Paths meander their way through a hardwood forest that feels more like an edenistic jungle. Vibrant explosions of blossoms were anything but subtle accents to the green canvas. For nature lovers, this would be more than enough reason to plan a visit, but the collection of birds was like nothing fathomed.

Large aviaries are scattered along the trails, isolated just enough to build anticipation for what waited around every bend. The park’s mission is to protect endangered species and befriend rescued birds from all over Latin America. Various assortments of playful parrots, toucans, owls and songbirds enlivened the forest with harmony; even silent birds of prey appeared congenial in idyllic settings. But magnificent macaws command center stage.

Mayas revered these birds of paradise as sacred; especially the scarlet variety which once thrived in this region, though green and blue species were just as dazzling. Guests have the chance to actually walk through an aviary where these self-aggrandizing birds all but fawned and posed for the camera. Tour ends with close-encounter opportunities. To stand with arms extended like a roosting post, while a pair of quite heavy macaws perch on each wrist and a parrot named "Kisses" does just that from your shoulder, was like nothing I’d ever experienced!

When first arriving, I wasn’t thrilled about the mandatory guide. Not sure what rapid-fire bird vocabulary there would be, an English-speaking escort was requested. ‘Fito’ was the perfect host, and more than indulgent with frequent pauses for photos. Guides are sufficiently trained in hospitality, ornithology, and natural facts applied to the park. Our rolling-bilingual conversations were as mentally stimulating as the flourishing visuals he explained.


I left quite satisfied but would like to have stayed longer. Plan your schedules accordingly because the pass is good for three days and there’s more to be had than just birds and gardens! Macaw Mountain could certainly rate a full-day of leisure thanks to a picturesque swimming hole complete with lounging decks and changing facilities. For the more adventurous, a hiking trail weaves through the park’s coffee farm and is said to have favorable vistas over the Copán Valley.

It’s also possible to have tours of the coffee harvest facilities and roasting house. The local cash crop is featured in the on-site restaurant and scattered snack kiosks, and is the least of what’s sold in a bird and nature-related gift shop I also wish had been thoroughly combed.

-- Moto-taxis regularly service the park from town for 20Lps.

-- Additional Macaw Mountain photos.

Optium Viewing;

Wobbling into my twelfth hour of fixated itchy feet, interest feigned standing at yet another trailhead. The path quickly disappeared into the coffee plantation; the Macaw Mountain guide thoroughly detailing the plants, the trail, the potential overlooks, the… Since it was almost the 5-o’clock closing time, I thought I’d do us both a favor and make tracks to the nearby exit instead.

The young moto-taxi driver was still parked under a shade tree, whether waiting for me or taking a break to catch-up with his buddy we’d picked-up on the way out of town. Much to their wonder and even somewhat mine, I kept right on trodding towards the dusty road. They sprang into action, making sure I realized it was well over 3km back into town and I didn’t need to walk. In hopes of prolonging the perfect day, that’s exactly what transpired!


Macaw Mountain is a considerable distance from town. Ride there was quite the good-humored jolt along a washboard road. Bouncing like a bobble-headed doll afforded random flashes of rural scenery while tucked-away inside the canopied contraption. I was determined to rivet the full scope, regardless of how washed-out the road and my legs were. Besides, it was all downhill in direction but quite the opposite in regards to perspectives.

This rural route curves and swerves through forests and farmlands, where livestock peacefully grazed in shaded pastures. Chirps of fluttering songbirds permeated the silence, ruptured only by the rumbles of random passing vehicles including mis amigos in the moto-taxi. They slowed asking for a "last chance" opening. Waving them onward, the experience was mine for the taking; something I’m sure few if any visitors have ever considered.

Easing closer to town with each shifting step, my dogs weren’t the only ones barking as random homes began appearing along the road. Ferocious sounding canines were always ready to gr"eat" me; their barks worse than any bites as indicated by the nonchalant locals that were coming out of the woodlands to share the road.


As to what officially constituted the afternoon pilgrimage was anyone’s guess but ramblers of all ages continued to join the processions, now beginning to head in both directions. Curious stares of children melted into reciprocated smiles; even from the unsupervised ones playing naked in ditches and yards. Beyond the touristic gleam of downtown Copán Ruinas sprawls the humble truths of Honduras subsistence. To share in these simplicities, even in the briefest of passing moments, are the travel experiences that keep me questing for more.


Passing over a shaded bridge, a massive flamboyán tree captured my attention blazing against the green spectrum. Looking downstream, the waters meandered through a maze of boulders and abandoned piles of laundry. Despite the obvious destitution, this was someone’s idyllic backyard; simple country living at its finest. The stolen moment was anything but silent from whatever was unfolding below other side of the bridge.

Rowdy boys were frolicking in the waters where rocks had formed a natural pool. I had a few seconds to observe unnoticed before the real show started. Antics only escalated one spotting camera. There was quite the feat trying to capture a shot that didn’t include exposed bare body parts; ever the conscientious one hailing from a land where something so innocent has reason to be misconstrued.


Departing with an "adios", another rumpus scattered jaywalkers as a young catracho came thundering around the bend on his horse, perfecting the Wild West ambiance. Cowboys and horses are still as much a part of this rustic venue as are the age-old adobe buildings dotting roadsides; some in various stages of forsaken decay. Others as viable sanctuaries and humble abodes of 21st Century Latin America.

The route edges toward legitimate barrios layered on either side of the mountainous road. Preparing to refresh inside a pulpería, a "señor, señor" paused my entry thanks to a posse of children approaching with urgency. It was the band of bathers; still wet but somewhat recognizable semi-clothed. Actual acknowledgement seemed to throw them off; suddenly they didn’t know what to say and took off giggling down the road.

What ensued was a playful game of cat-and-mouse with the youngsters popping-out from various places and scurrying just as quickly once noticing them. I must confess the rascals gave quite the startle when appearing overhead from a roof. Mustering all the courage in the world, one put-forth their best broken English to request, "Please, take our picture."


Responding in Spanish almost seemed to rupture fascination that had ensued chasing the foreigner down the road, but they still wanted the picture. Construction workers in the street halted briefly with approval, whether from a watchful eye or to reflect upon their own carefree childhoods; likely right here on the side of this mountain. The boys disappeared as quickly as they had appeared; never to be seen again, and the clanging and banging of progress resumed.