Puzzled in the Valley of Deference

Seeing is believing, though I'm still in a state of dazzled distraction months after visiting the Copán Archaeological Park. Mayan civilization is currently on the cutting-edge of Archaeological and Anthropological studies, even surpassing attention of Mesopotamia and the great pyramids. Breakthroughs are happening daily towards unravelling secrecies, misunderstandings for a society proving to be as progressively advanced as any that chronicles previously recorded.

With traceable signs of a farming civilization to 1000BC throughout the Copán Valley, a city didn’t begin evolving until AD200. Beginning the 5th century, inter-tribal marriages with Tikal Mayans helped Copán transform into a major dynasty. Half a millennia later, everyone had vanished more than 300-years before Spaniards arrived. With what was left behind, every adventure traveler should be planning a visit!

Mayans believed their Gods came from the north, and south was connection to the underworld. All their great cities were precisely designed to honor these principles, while balancing an east-to-west exactitude for tracking sun travel during seasonal equinoxes and solstices. As most southern and easterly of Mayan cities, Copán is believed to have held additional ritual importance for astrologers and astronomers.

Who were these people that used stars and planets to accurately record time before it was ever thought to exist? And, running only up through 12/23/12! There’s great debate whether Copán was epicenter of tracking Mayan time for adjusting complex calendar systems, but there’s no mistaking greatest contributions.

Unlike northern Mayan site’s towering temples, Copán members were the master craftsmen. Artisians had an abundance of trachyte to quarry; a fine-grained volcanic rock easy to carve compared to limestone, or sandstone used at nearby Quiriguá. Considering there’s been no volcanic action in this region for thousands of year, antiquated mysteries are only heightened!

From towering Stelaes of The Great Plaza to five layers of Temples and tombs giving rise to The Acropolis, prepare to be puzzled from these exquisite creations, including from boundless piles of garnished rubble just waiting to be assembled like an age-old jigsaw. Worthy center of attention is the magnificent Hieroglyphic Stairway; a jaw-dropping wonder, encircled with what I considered to be the ancient city’s most revealing stelaes, statues and altars.

Athens and Rome seemed rather urbane after my first encounter with Mayan ruins. While anxious to visit more sites, Copán was the ultimate introduction; encounters that are Very Highly Recommended!

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Quick Tips:

Park Paticulars
Hours are listed as 8:00am-5:00pm daily, but here's the most valuable piece of advice for travelers: You can enter as soon as the ticket lady arrives, which for me was 7:30am. It's not that the park was crowded on a weekday but to have it all to myself for those first 45-minutes or so was absolutely mystifying! Getting an early start also spares trekking in mid-day heat.

Admission fees raised at some point in early 2007 for something that wasn't cheap to begin with. Entry into the Main Park and further Sepulturas groupings costs /285Lps. It's also now the same price to enter the pair of underground tunnels. The museum is an additional /133Lps. Dollars, Lempiras, Quetzales and Pesos accepted as are some credit cards.

Paying extra for the Museum is Very Highly Recommended, but I'm still torn over not paying extra for the tunnels. Numerous resources advised it wasn't worth the previous . Considering they're discovering layers upon layers of previous underground structures never thought to exist, merit should only increase with time. I was quite overwhelmed with what I got, but would include the tunnels if returning.

Private Guides can be hired from a kiosk inside the park entry. While one could've added tid-bits, their fee for two-hours wasn't justifiable. Using notes and Lonely Planet's 2006 Honduras edition, I was inundated during my 6-hours of explorations. I'd done scads of reading and research beforehand, and still nothing seemed adequate for processing the real deal.

-- Free maps are given upon entry, but there was no key or information. If you don't plan on hiring a guide, come prepared with something for reference.

Hydration was very important as it didn't take much to sweat-soak clothing within the steamy valley. Bring plenty of water; especially for early arrivals. The small restaurant and snackshop didn't open until later. Surprisingly there weren't tourist trap-prices, but heat had zapped any mid-day appetite. In addition to water, soft drinks and cerveza, there's an abundance of flavored Gatorades; a large costing .25. They come half-frozen to prolong refreshment.

-- Not counting souvenirs, meals or drinks, a day in the park could've easily cost . While I spent less than half that, any cost was certainly more than worth it!

Best Way To Get Around:

Even if there weren't any Ruins, the Copán Valley could be a major attraction unto itself! Beyond sprawling parking lot and picnic grounds, pathes trail-off through various sections which exude a presence of hallowed grounds. The park is just that -- a park that will absolutely enchant nature lovers! The fact that these deciduous woodlands conceal traces of a past civilization all the more spellbinding.

Groupings await at end of a wide path swallowed under forest canopy. The Great Plaza, Ball Court and Hieroglyphic Stairway sprawl across a shadeless lawn, that commands more contemplation than exertion. Getting to the Acropolis and upper Temples requires various series of staircases; none less taxing than the other.

While sections of ruins have been roped-off, the inquisitive will still find an abundance of backway possibilities to climb around for unique vantage points and photo opportunities; especially in upper-regions. There was no clear-cut path for entering the lower cemetery enclave. Go to the park's eastern boundary. Otherwise, head off-trail.

-- Be mindful of where you stop to rest, lean or sit. They weren't fire ants but something certainly chewed me up! Mosquitoes weren't a problem; dispite precautionary forewarnings. Then again, May had been unseasonably parched.

-- Handicap accessibility will take some major determination through lower regions because pathes aren't paved. Lawns are level, but thick grasses are a hinderance. The Museum of Sculpture is fully handicap accessible including ramps for reaching both levels.

Getting to the Park
The ruins are located outside the pleasant pueblo of Copán Ruinas. Inexpensive moto-taxis shuttle between the two. It's also possible to walk along the highway, using a paved path that even passes a pair of precursor Stelae. None of the distance or time references are in agreement from numerous resources.

Best guestimated, it's was at least 2km, 30-minutes to main entry and at least half that again further to Las Sepulturas, though the latter seemed much longer. Morning walk was enjoyable and agreeable, but think twice about walking back. If distance doesn't get you combined with trekking around the parks, afternoon heat will!

-- For years, the majority of visitors have been day-trippers from Guatemala. Here's details for Crossing the Nearby Border.

Feeling rather like a triumphal entry through the forest, canopied path opens onto expansive lawn of the The Great Plaza. With almost a head-on view of the small pyramid known as Building #4, arrival anticipation was overwhelming! The plaza lies to the left and is the best place to begin. Otherwise, I probably wasn’t the first, nor will be the last, that short-changes this area with temptations to hurry-up and explore all that sprawls to the right.

Magnificance of the plaza is rather hard to grasp and anthropologists have yet to determine full significance. This horseshoe area was once enclosed by structures. All that remains are foundational ruins reclaimed by forest. What’s known is that all Mayan cities were designed in a manner believing that directional north was a connection point to the heavens and Gods.

Stelae, the intricately carved stone columns, are how Mayas documented histories until the 9th-century, which ended the Classic Period and began decline of the Copán dynasty. King 18 Rabbit, ruler from 695-738, transformed the city as a center for study of astronomy and astrology. Depending on how well you know positioning of the stars might help to recognize that city structures and stelae are arranged to emulate sacred constellations. Quite honestly, I couldn’t see much of anything from being awestruck!

Decorous glyphs may relay an indecipherable message, but there’s no mistaking why Copán Mayas were considered the most skilled of artisians. Regalities of Gods and Kings leaves no centimeter of statues unembellished. Odd-shaped altars positioned next to the icons only reinforces mystique.

Stelaes C and H still have traces of red paint; believed to have covered all ephigies. King 18 Rabbit is immortalized in numerous statues, including two previously mentioned. One of my favorite depictions was on Stelae B thanks to a simplicity of the front that appears to swell from interesting headdress.

Replica of Stelae A from AD731 (original is in park’s museum) establishes King 18 Rabbit and Copán as an equal power next to tribal emblems traceable to Palenque, Tikal, and Calakmul. His reign was cut short after capture and execution by the nearest neighbors in Quiriguá, across the border of Guatemala. Not only were they trade rivals, they went on to erect the only stelaes larger than ones found at Copán.

Building #4 divides the Great Plaza from the Ballcourt and city’s remaining lower parts. It looks rather plain and small from the ground, but definitely elevates perspectives when standing on top. This is the only structure in the park that allows visitors full-access for climbing.

-- Numerous other stelae are scattered around the park, and King Smoke Jaguar marked eastern and western valley perimeters with statues in 652. Western ones can be viewed on the walk from town.

-- Harvard Peabody expeditionist Dr. John Owens died on-site in 1893, and is buried at the base of Stelae D and altar to Chac, the rain God. These are centrally located on northern end of the Great Plaza.

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Of the ancient city’s three sections, this is by far the focal point that receives the most endorsement and which made the utmost of impressions. Nestled between the Great Plaza, and massive wall serving as northern base of the Acropolis, this fascinating quadrant boldly left little to imagination.

King 18 Rabbit is credited for the Ball Court which runs between what remains of Structures #9 and #10. This is believed to be the second-largest ball court in Latin America, and knowing a litte about this indigenous sport helps to visualize past significance. No interpretations are needed for sculptures still found on vestige of Building 10.

It’s possible to scale the ledge, and walk along façade for getting a close-up view of the stone macaw head which still commands center stage. Sculpted works of art, such as these, were what established Copán amongst the elite of Mayan tribes. Architectural design and detail were also unique, as seen in Building 10’s archways perfected with uncanny geometrical precision. But nothing surpasses the main attraction waiting off to the side.

The Hieroglyphic Stairway is an archaeological wonder! The Copán dynasty’s entire tribal history is told through approximately 1,250 declicately carved glyphs ascending the 72-steps of this 50-foot wide staircase. The mission of exaltation began under reign of King Smoke Monkey and was dedicated by King Smoke Shell in AD749. Anthropologists have confirmed additions and/or extensions were made as late as AD820 to include the last great King, First Sunrise. That’s about all they’re sure of.

Once jungle was cleared to reveal the staircase, majority of stones had tumbled out of place. The current "display" may fit together, but the upper portion is not in correct order nor can anyone be certain about decipherments from the lower glyphs. Standing at the base reveals where jig-saw puzzle began above the 15th step. A team of workers were busy with measurements, photographs, note-taking and surveying off to the side; it really felt like being part of history past and in the making!

Much to my disappointment, it’s no longer possible to climb stairs as some outdated resources suggest. The entire stairway is now shielded with a massive green tarpaulin; distance prohibiting views more than darkness. During initial explorations, I circled a second time and returned yet again on my way out. Three prolonged hypnotisms still weren’t enough for coming to terms with what sprawled before me.

About middle one-third of the way up is a sitting statue that surely witnessed centuries’ worth of all their was to see; if only stone could talk. In front of the stairway is an altar and Stelae M, believed to diefy King Smoke Shell. Also be sure to pin-point nearby Stelae N. These may be literally overshadowed by the Hieroglyphic Stairway, but you won’t find anything more exquisite on the Great Plaza.

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Mental capacities were beyond overload by time I climbed massive hill to the Acropolis. For open range of the city’s lower area, this upper temples area engulfs even the most suspecting. Here is where second thoughts developed about a lot of things, including not hiring a guide. Little is marked or designated; hard to decipher even with a good map and prestudy preparations. Even more mind-boggling, what’s seen doesn’t even begin to scratch the surface!

Archaeologists have determined that Copán had five major building booms beginning around AD200. What’s seen today is final phase completed in the early 800’s. When gazing up at the Acropolis from lower levels, consider if a hill or natural rise in terrain would even be there if Mayans hadn’t kept building on top of the previous structures!

If paying the extra $15 fee, visitors can descend unto depths through a pair of abbreviated tunnels. I didn’t, and have yet to come across any information or review that says its worth extra costs. Ongoing excavations continue to find preserved tombs, shrines and temples of various eras; the sacred Rosalia Temple from AD571 most reputable. Save your money and marvel replica inside the park’s Museum of Sculpture.

Structure 16 was built on top of the Rosalia, and is believed to be the last, great sacred monument before civilization decline. Looking like a giant pyramid, this is the largest intact configuration remaining in the park. No one has yet to determine actual use or purpose. The West Court was used for religious ceremonies, and the most notable "must see" is Altar Q.

Dated to the 9th century, this squared replica is as eerie as intriguing; the original is also in the museum. The four sides contain decorous glyphs of the 16 great Kings of the Copán lineage. Worth noting is the corner where Yax Kuk Mo’, the first king, is handing a scepter to Yax Pac, the final king; almost an irony of prognostication that the end was near for this tribal dynasty.

The East Court, where both tunnel entries can be found, is centered around a sunken ballcourt and gathering area hemmed with rows of stone steps which also served as seating for spectators. Remains of Temple 22, along northern rim, didn’t conjure much image for past splendors. By this point, overwhelming magnitudes no longer mattered.

There seemed to be more statues scattered about but for all the ruins which dominate the Acropolis, it’s the infinite piles of fragments concealing the most interesting treasures. No pile of rubble was too insignificant for spotting sculptures of man and beast; serpent and bird.

There’s no clear-cut outline for exploring the Acropolis; whimsical wanderings best serving purpose. When it all gets to be a bit too much, find your way to the most southern sector. It’s called El Cementerio, but contains foundational evidence of royal and common residences. The sanctuary is shaded and relaxing; perfect for gathering wits before going back for more.

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The Yax Ché Nature Trail was a nice break from the ruins for having a different scope to help process the mental overload. At the same time, a series of placards detail life and times of the Maya that followed along these very same footsteps. For those that enjoy thinking outside of the box, the encountering will be surreal.

Usually the rainy season begins around the end of April. Here it was late-May and most of Honduras had yet to see a drop! Parts of the forest were parched and dusty while other sections flourished with jungle-like qualities. Nature was the life-line of the Mayas as well as their downfall. Anthropologists have now determined decline of the Copán sect can be linked directly to depletion of natural resources in trying to sustain a rapidly growing population.

The trail meanders through a section of the valley floor where commoners once lived at the height of civilization. Markers designate small clusters of mounds concealing foundational ruins which have yet to be excavated. It's important to realize this entire section had once been cleared and forest has reclaimed territory over the last centuries.

Further food for thought details how the 'slash-and-burn' method, widely still practiced for clearing terrains across Central America, is one of the most destructive agricultural practices for sustaining fertile environments.

Mahogany trees are worth noting the way rusty-orange outer layers are in a perpetual state of peel, revealing a green core below. In English, locals call these Sun-burned Tourist trees. While they're hard to miss, they're certainly far from the main attraction.

The trail is named Yax Ché in honor of the Ceiba tree. These were one of the most sacred symbols of Maya ideology, and never felled. Exalted as 'The Tree of Life', these earthly idols majestically stretch towards the heavens while roots tapped into the underworld. I'd hate to meet the tree-hugger that could actually wrap their arms around some of these colossal giants!

While they're scattered around the park, there's one ageless hardwood in particular along second portion of this trail which undoubtedly witnessed the Copán rise and fall. Unable to adequately fit even a portion of the mammoth-root base into a wide angle lense, all I could do was revere by connecting through touch.

Other signs detail the abundance of wildlife which once thrived in these parts. Supposedly this was a good opportunity for birdwatchers, but nothing fluttered at high-noon and the only animal was a scurrying capybara.

The trailhead is well-marked just inside secondary entry to the main park. The path is level and easily traversed. The first section ends at a small ball court without any indication there's a second part, which was actually better and more revealing. Towards rear of the ball court, trail leads-off into a thicker, more secluded section of woods. It's a longer segment that comes out behind the Museum of Sculpture.

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Outdated information suggests that while the Museum of Sculpture could and should be a highlight, the facility had fallen into disrepair. Swallowed into a lower-level, where main entry is through open mouth of a serpent, darkened stone corridor is a copy of passages that once connected Copán temples. Initial assessments fed into negative reviews until blinded by vibrant light at end of the tunnel!

The museum evolves around an open-air courtyard containing a model of Rosalia Temple. Bathed in sunlight, this colorful reproduction was absolutely radiating in its spotlight as the inescapable center of attention. It’s hard to fathom what Mayan cities must have looked like swaddled in these luminous shades. If the temple perspectives don’t paint the picture, surely nothing will!

While I didn’t pay extra to tour parts of the original temple, this re-creation helped to grasp past significance. Rosalia was completed in 571AD, and was preserved intact below what is now labeled Structure 16. Museum patrons can step into a small side room; the temple is best marveled from afar.

Groupings within the pair of viewing levels probably have some significance, but by this point were all just more ruin relics. With that said, nothing deserved any less of a close inspection than the other. While numerous replicas are scattered about the park, these were the original artifacts that didn’t look a day over 1000-years old!

The height of Copán civilization was 250-800AD, and most of the museum’s pieces come from this "Classic Period". The intricately detailed carvings and statues were beyond impressive, and confirm why this sect was the esteemed of Mayan culture when it comes to skilled craftsmen and artisians. Nothing was too insignificant for embellishments; even the outer portions of stone slabs which served as nothing more than bedframes.

Entire facades of structures and buildings have been pieced back together thanks to on-going excavations. The abundance of stone skulls ties into the region’s beliefs still celebrated through Día de los Muertos; something largely attributed to the Aztecs though some of these findings pre-date this civilization.

-- If you arrive later in the day or don’t intend to rigorously explore the park, I recommend coming to the museum first. Otherwise, expect appreciation levels to be diminished from mental overload from all that’s processed within actual ruins.

-- While walking around the ruins, take note of the stelae and structures which are denoted as replicas. The originals, such as Altar Q, are part of the museum collection. While the copies look authentic, there was something soul-stirring about knowing these were the age-old masterpieces.

-- Numerous displays were "in the works" as new finds continue to be unearthed. Quality of this museum should only increase with time.

-- Admission is an additional $7/133Lps from park entrance fees, and certainly worth it. The pair of display levels are connected by ramps, making the entire facility handicap accessible.

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The park's $15 admission fee also includes Las Sepulturas; believed to be a residential area for the upper crust. At height of Copán's tribal dynasty, a large causeway connected this to the plazas and temples. Today it's a questionable 2km-walk further continuing along the path which follows the highway.

Unless you're a diehard adventurer or Mayan scholar, there's no way this area could be anything but anticlimactic after what's seen in the main park. Considering what's actually found, I don't even recommend coming here first to salvage effort.

Supposed highlight is The House of Bacabs where tribe officials lived. Descriptions are enough to lure the unsuspecting, whom scan right over the word had, as in 'once was'. What remains are large clusters of foundational ruins, and that's it!

Even more dubious was the reception upon arrival. A trio of shady-acting characters scattered from the entry station, and the two which remained started acting real busy. There was nothing "official" looking about any of them and they had no interest seeing my ticket. A dusty roadway forked-off to the right but I was told to follow a foot-path through the forest on the left.

Thankful to escape the bad vibe, I hadn't gone far before coming to a cluster of mounds and architectural relics. Tranquility was shattered when one of the culprits stepped-out from behind a pile and just stared without saying anything. I asked what he wanted; he replied there were more ruins deeper in the forest. Shaking my head in approval, I meandered toward the direction he pointed and mosied around the bend. Trouble was, he followed!

I turned on my 6'4"-gait, heading deeper into the forest. If there was a band of hoodlums back there waiting to make something happen, I'm still not sure anyone would've found my body. Adrenaline had yet to subside by the time I eventually stumbled into the grouping of foundations. That was so not cool. I don't know if this guy was supposed to be a potential guide or what, but I was ready to find a big ol' stick and go back to beat some ass!

Needless to say, this whole segment plummeted from here; not that there was anything impressive to be seen from what I could tell. There is no official trail or markers through the labyrinth piles and I thought I'd never find the correct opening which led back towards the service trail originally veering-off behind the entrance station. The shiftless were all lying in the shade enjoying their opossum siestas. Tempted to go coondog on them, I kept right on walking.

Considering my besieged track record, I let paranoia get the best of me. But even without the bad experience, there was simply nothing worthwhile to merit coming the extra distance when time is better spent in the other section. If you do insist on coming, hire a guide from the main park!

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