Rush Hour in Río Dulce

Overview

Harbor Vistas Photo - Rio Dulce, Guatemala

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Positioned as the eastern crossroads of Guatemala, Río Dulce turned-out to be one of those unexpected pleasures that the unsuspecting traveler could never adequately strategize or foresee. The small port-side outpost might be miles inland from the Caribbean coast but water also plays a significant part to the junction function.The town evolved on a narrow channel that acts as mouth to Lago de Izabal; the country’s largest lake. The span is now connected by Puente Fronteras; ‘Bridge of Borders’, which is supposedly the longest of its type in all of Central America. Notoriety comes from the town’s namesake; the Río Dulce, which flows into the nearby Caribbean. ...Read More

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Hotel Posada del Río

Hotel

The Single Room Photo - Rio Dulce, Guatemala

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Exiting bus where the bridge funnels into main street, I looked north towards the river and saw the sign for Hotel Posada del Río. Recognizing name from this website, it made sense to start here for scouting accommodations. The short walk felt like sluggish miles thanks to the opaque coastal humidity that had already subdued any relevance or common sense. I was obviously restless, listless, and just ready to be settled! Owner lives on the lower level and was eager to have a mid-week guest. On the upper floor there are three rooms with two twin beds and private bath costing Q150/$20; a triple f...Read More

Member Rating 1 out of 5 on April 1, 2008

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Bruno's Marina

Hotel | "Bruno's"

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For the unacclimated traveler that finds Río Dulce just a bit too Guatemalan, Bruno’s is the place for you! This jack of all services has been the driving force of tourism in the region. Growing competition has kept them from cornering the market, but they’ve certainly cornered the harbor with prime location.While I had no intention of paying double or triple their accommodation rates (especially considering Bruno’s is on opposite side of the bridge from where I stayed, and certainly not exempt from in...Read More

For the unacclimated traveler that finds Río Dulce just a bit too Guatemalan, Bruno’s is the place for you! This jack of all services has been the driving force of tourism in the region. Growing competition has kept them from cornering the market, but they’ve certainly cornered the harbor with prime location.

While I had no intention of paying double or triple their accommodation rates (especially considering Bruno’s is on opposite side of the bridge from where I stayed, and certainly not exempt from incessant traffic noise), I was curious to find out what all the fuss was about. The segregated compound explained why there weren’t any foreigners wandering around town. They were all holed-up in this gringo haven worthy of a Jimmy Buffet chorus line; especially the "wasted away again…" part.

Smells of burning reefer lazed in thickness of humidity, and I was quite humored from more than a half-baked contact buzz. These weren’t gnarly surfer-types or younger rhasta-wannabes but retired salty dogs that had drifted-in on fancy yachts and become anything but grounded. To watch them scamper around bunkhouses and grounds like a bunch of kids at R-rated summer camp was aspiration for my golden years to be as much a total lost cause.

Once realizing the pool was open to anyone for $3, I swam in my own sweat back to retrieve trunks and couldn’t wait to cool off. If only! Diving-in about caused me to gasp under water thanks to the boiling pot affect. No wonder this picturesque setting was abandoned in early afternoon; almost nauseating to stay in the torrid water. Breeze against wetness momentarily felt good until stickiness returned. Bring a towel or something to sit on. Otherwise, cushionless wooden chairs were something like coming hot off a grill.

The lunch crowd had thinned-out from the open air restaurant and bar. Recognizable food choices started at US$7; beers and drinks also well over-priced compared to local establishments. I couldn’t help but notice how all eyes seemed to fixate when walking in; whether as someone new to drink and talk with or what. Uncanny how the entire expansive setting had a caged feeling; rather like some had wandered in and gotten trapped or lost.

Since things to do around town are limited, Bruno’s did make for interesting browses beyond the norm. Docks are scenic with vistas framing watercraft, and varieties of flowering tropicals were everywhere. At first I thought numerous ‘Danger, Falling Coconuts’ signs were playful swipes at the Margaritaville-crowd until thunderous crash legitimized alert; cue to watch where you walk or park.

A store caters to landlubbers and yachtie-types, and I highly recommend the communication center just to feign interest while basking in air-conditioning. Internet service is $2 for 30-minutes or $3 for an hour; rather up-scale prices like everything else at Bruno’s in catering to a crowd that doesn’t mind or know the difference in paying extra for everything.

Nightly activities are jump-started with a popular Happy Hour. Returning to my hotel around dusk, the younger Europeans were heading out to a Bruno’s pool party and coaxed that I join them for cooling off. Buckets of warm longnecks in melted ice around the balmy bathtub was not my idea of "chill"; opting for another cold shower instead.
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Member Rating 3 out of 5 on April 1, 2008

Bruno's Marina

Rio Dulce, Guatemala

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Antojitos

Restaurant

More than a Mouthful! Photo - Rio Dulce, Guatemala

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"Small whims"; that’s the translation for Antojitos, and I wouldn’t realize until later that almost every local eatery in Guatemala appears to go by this as a name. Hence, my first dining opportunity in the country qualifies equally as an experience and review.Arriving in Río Dulce shortly after noon, I’d left Copán, Honduras that morning at 6:00am, and had barely even snacked on whatever roving vendors where hawking at every bus stop. With family-ran restaurants on either side of Hotel Posada del Río, I asked the owner which one she’d recommend. Without hesitation, she all but scoot...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on April 7, 2008

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Local Markets

Attraction

Spit and a Shine Photo - Rio Dulce, Guatemala

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Considering Río Dulce’s position as the crossroads for eastern Guatemala, the town also doubles as outpost for this entire region. What I wasn’t expecting were the tremendous amounts of trade and commerce in one of the most chaotic and unique settings ever experienced!Bridge over the river funnels into main street which also doubles as an outdoor extravaganza from sun-up ‘til sun-down. Heavy traffic all but came to a standstill at times thanks to swarms of locals freely circulating amidst daily activities. I was amazed how people took little to no caution while walking through traffic; hypnotized by impulse towards all that awaited. Not that there’s any types of sidewalks for safe pass...Read More

Considering Río Dulce’s position as the crossroads for eastern Guatemala, the town also doubles as outpost for this entire region. What I wasn’t expecting were the tremendous amounts of trade and commerce in one of the most chaotic and unique settings ever experienced!

Bridge over the river funnels into main street which also doubles as an outdoor extravaganza from sun-up ‘til sun-down. Heavy traffic all but came to a standstill at times thanks to swarms of locals freely circulating amidst daily activities. I was amazed how people took little to no caution while walking through traffic; hypnotized by impulse towards all that awaited. Not that there’s any types of sidewalks for safe passage, but it wouldn’t matter.

Vendors have squeezed-in elbow to elbow hawking countless amounts of goods and services that packs potential customers 10-deep in spots! Crowds on-foot, bicycles and other crude forms of "go" intensified in swells from both sides; at times bottle-necking traffic as if oblivious to the whole transportation interchange. Official businesses lining the thoroughfare are obscured by the masses; not that whatever is needed can’t already be found out front in the streets!

The veritable spread was as much a potential feast for the stomach as for eyes thanks to a bounty of make-shift stands doubling as open-air eateries. As was my first stop in Guatemala, the introduction to culture and cuisine was confounding with mounds of unidentifiable, prepared foods. A person could eat three meals a day without ever having to enter a restaurant, and it seemed that’s how locals function. While tempting, my exploratory palate left samplings unappraised.

Peddlers were out at dawn and seemed to rotate positions through the dinner-hour as selections disappeared. Majority of foods are fried and a stomach full of grease, further queasy from the heat, was not my idea of light and fluffy. Potential spoilage or contamination is also a factor thanks to questionable sanitary practice, flies, heat, and the persistent seasoning of all-day exhaust fumes.

Figuring a cup of coffee wouldn’t be a digestive compromise also proved somewhat a gamble. The lady scooped a generous spoonful of the ‘instant’ variety into a styrofoam cup and added water from a container sitting on a heating unit. Not only was the coffee gritty and lukewarm, first sip also sparked conscientious questioning of where the water came from, and if it was even boiled and/or safe. Within minutes, I had a couple of sharp pangs within my digestive tract and while never developing beyond anything more, reserve the street-side bait for photos only!

While the main street fiasco is inescapable, the curious traveler would be short-changed without exploring all the lesser alleys and passageways which trail off towards the waterfront. Evolving amidst a much calmer approach, it’s still "business as usual" with colorful assortments of goods for sale including in what appears to be the official market place engulfed by all that sprawls beyond.

Side passages dead-end on docks which afford a behind the scenes look at daily activities happening along the waterfront. Changing vantage points requires going back to main street and taking a different entry. Photo opportunities were excessive; locals not seeming the least bit offended and more than willing to engage in conversation. These docks also rendered a sparkling picture-perfect sunrise!

-- If looking for sit-down dining beyond snacking in the streets, head anywhere towards the waterfront, especially around the busy sections of docks. While there were a couple of expat establishments catering exclusively to travelers, the majority of restaurants and bars are locally-owned and specialize in fresh fish and seafood unloaded right at the door.
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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 1, 2008

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Parque Malecón

Attraction

La Lavandería Photo - Rio Dulce, Guatemala

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Initial explorations had already quickly scouted territory under the bridge as it trailed off towards the river. Nothing had overly registered until a self-confined captive at Bruno’s included this area on a mindless list of places to avoid for safety reasons. Immediately, curiosity had me wondering what I’d overlooked? Apparently, the fact that enjoying moments of leisure are perceived as a threat!For all the hustle and bustle of main street Río Dulce, this shaded section of recreational space is where local people escape to catch their breath from cool breezes coming off the river. Unlike most towns which have a Parque Central where residents congregate, this rendition was all the mo...Read More

Initial explorations had already quickly scouted territory under the bridge as it trailed off towards the river. Nothing had overly registered until a self-confined captive at Bruno’s included this area on a mindless list of places to avoid for safety reasons. Immediately, curiosity had me wondering what I’d overlooked? Apparently, the fact that enjoying moments of leisure are perceived as a threat!

For all the hustle and bustle of main street Río Dulce, this shaded section of recreational space is where local people escape to catch their breath from cool breezes coming off the river. Unlike most towns which have a Parque Central where residents congregate, this rendition was all the more engaging and worth repeat visits.

Actually, I’d detoured from this entire area on the first bypass; opting where road splits to the right for reaching the public transportation docks. Otherwise, thoroughfare ends at a viewing platform on river’s edge. The overlook is somewhat impeded by trees, but welcomed just the same as a coolant with ample shade. Not much was happening mid-day aside from ladies pounding clothes on rocks in performing mundane laundry duties.

Overhead traffic rumbling across the bridge shatters tranquilities, but environment is still relaxing. Haphazard gardens are colorful in-bloom. Of most intrigue was the mammoth statue dwarfed under the bridge reinforcement – man grappling with fish as if to indicate the struggles and triumphs that defined age-old subsistence. The statue towers over a small fountain that didn’t look like it had been in working order for quite some time.

Significance of this being the town’s main social center didn’t begin revealing itself until later in the day. Basketball courts and playgrounds began stirring with action, and clapboard buildings and stands took-on new appeal as small business owners catered to crowds with foods and trinkets – things that would qualify as the town’s only souvenir venue. Height of traffic was at dusk as if everyone came to watch a sunset that never happened.

The area stayed quite active with families, young lovers and strollers well after dark as likely the only entertainment beyond home. At no point did I ever feel unsafe day or night, or that this was a place off-limits to travelers. Beyond smiles, people weren’t overly friendly perhaps because of perceived language barriers but for me it sure beat the English-speaking zoo-crew at Bruno’s.

Considering there’s not much else to do around town, this recreational area is certainly recommended for diversion and photo opportunities.
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on April 1, 2008

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Río Dulce Boat Tours

Attraction

The Water Gardens Photo - Rio Dulce, Guatemala

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Recommending this as an alternative transportation measure for reaching Livingston and Guatemala’s Caribbean coast is one thing. Expecting this to be anything more than a hot joyride quite the other! Whether to justify fares or to increase tourism, these waterway connections are packaged like excursions. A list of enticing sites and stops along the way made the adventure sound quite worthy of the $10, one-way ticket. Keep an open-mind, and it might be.Departure got off to a rough start when crossing river to pick-up passengers at Hotel Backpackers. When guests were nowhere to be found, it became evident they’d already been shuttled across the river and dropped-off at a differen...Read More