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Mexico City

Mexico City, This Small Little Town

The felines, specially the Jaguar were highly honoredMore Photos

by JesusW

A January 2006 travel journal

Last Updated: November 25, 2006

Journal Usefulness Rating 6 out of 5
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A city so inmense that even taxi drivers get lost, so many of everything it´s a difficult chore to see everything.

The felines, specially the Jaguar were highly honored
This Small Little Town as I affectionately call it, is one of the largest cities in the world, competing with Shanghai, Tokio, New Delhi.

The size of its population is a big debate, politically there are two different states involved the D.F. (Federal District, like Washington, D.C.) and Estado de México. The city is composed of parts of both entities and it makes a joke to tell how many inhabitants compose Mexico city, the average figure is 20 to 25 million persons, depending on whom is saying the number and for what purpose. The DF part of the equation should be around 15 million, and about 10 million should be distributed in the sleep areas of Nezahualcoyotl, Satelite, Cuahutitlan, Ecatepec, etc., which had not boomed, but exploded in recent years.

The beginning of the city was a smallish island in the middle of Lake Texcoco but after the Spanish conquest all that changed, they drained the lake to be able to distribute more land to it´s high class (viceroys, generals, entrepreneurs, etc). and so begun the crazy race towards becoming a megalopolis.

The growth was not bad until the 1960s but after that there were no many rules, a big lack of planning for the long term and a high immigration from all the states with people looking towards improving their standard of life just to get stuck in this crazy place.

Quick Tips:

Megalopolis troubles.
There are many stories about crime, drugs, rapes, robbery, etc. and many are true but not to the extent in the news, you won´t be mugged in the downtown main square or raped in a taxi, it can happen but the statistics are very low in comparison with the number of people living here. I think there are more murders around Washington D.C. than in Mexico city and more weapons shot in NYC than in the DF.

Food.
Heaven, you find all kind of food here, just have to search carefully, if you are staying at a large hotel, ask the concierge to help you find that special restaurant you are looking for, either it be Italian, Greek, kosher, fake Mexican (Vips, Chilis, sanborns), real actual Mexican (tacos, mole, carnitas), new cuisine (fancy and expensive), original Aztec (eating from bugs to cactus to pulque), you will go crazy trying just to name them all.

Attractions.
Here you will also go crazy, there are all kind of activities in the city or very close—say less than 2 hours land ride—(exception are skiing in the snow and sea related ones). You can choose between lots of museums, theater plays, natural parks, archaeological places (even at main square), you will be able to climb a mountain, sail in a lake, soak in a thermal spring, go horseback riding, rock climbing, hiking, etc.

Best Way To Get Around:

If you are staying downtown or at the hotel zone, you can walk your way around, just avoid little dark streets. Bring sunscreen, you will need it.

Subway
The most economical and easiest way to travel around the city is the subway, commonly called "el Metro", the STC Metropolitan Transport System, is the cheapest in the world, a ticket is two pesos (less than 20¢ in May 2006) for a ride, no matter the distance. There are 175 stations and 11 lines to make you reach your destination. Not all the city is covered but this is a good starting point.

Try this:
Metro It´s only in Spanish but there is a good map of the system and you can find about each individual line and station. Not very advanced for planing origin-destination. http://www.metro.df.gob.mx/red/index.html.

Taxis
The most common thing I have heard from visitors is that everybody has told them not to use the green taxis, this is a nonsense, in the past (4 years ago) all the taxis were painted green, so you didn´t have more option that radio-taxis (those you call by phone at their base). On average taxis are OK, and your chance of being mugged are low, but if you are nervous have your consierge or your captain at the restaurant get you a radio-taxi.

Collective Taxis "Microbuses" or just "Micros"
This are large min-buses that can hold between 15 to 30 passengers all cramped like sardines, most of them standing, you see all variations of chasis and decorations. They are cheap and charge a minimum of 2.50 pesos for 5km. they have fixed routes but depending on the driver, it can be an adventure riding with a Fitipaldi wannabe or a guy with the stereo at maximum volume. They are all but picturesque. Is your call if you want to use them, I would recommedn the bus, if available, or to wait for a better driver, wait for the next one.

Buses
The bus system cover all the city, but there are no guides or system map to help you. Frequency is not stablished and depends on the route, time of day and traffic.

Renting a car
Is not cheap and if you have never been in the city, I don´t recomend it, as drivers tend to be agressive and won´t let you pass even if you have the right of way. Lack of signs is common.

Tacos El Pastorcito

Restaurant

Lots of people every night, notice there are ballon vendors around.
I know this restaurant since it´s beginnings. It started with the owner making the Al Pastor meat by himself and a very skinny (but very tasty) "trompo" (we call it in Mexico, like the namesake toy).

Today, on a Friday night there are 4 trompos and each one is heavier and wider than the guy making the tacos. And there are no leftovers for the next day, just imagine the amount of tacos they serve every night!!!

This place is extremely popular as people from different and distant areas of the city drive all the way to eat here, something not very usual with tacos al pastor as normally people stick to their neighborhoods to have a quick taco, in this case the flavor and quantity is very generous. Each taco costs 10 pesos (less than $1), while in other places you are charged half the price for less than a third of meat. Size is not all, the flavor was the main thing drawing people to this spot, unlike the normal taco al pastor which have a pineapple on top of the trompo and has a reddish-orange color product of the achiote, here they don´t use neither of those and the flavor is completely unique.
Another secret for the success of El Pastorcito resides in the salsas, there is the traditional pico de gallo, but also there are huge bowls of salsa verde con aguacate (green tomatillo with avocado sauce) which is milder in spiciness than the rest. Along the tacos al pastor there are also alambres, tacos de bisteck, nopales, chicken and suadero.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by JesusW on May 1, 2006

Tacos El Pastorcito
Lorenzo Boturini y Sur 109 Mexico City, Mexico

Don Eraki

Restaurant

They are normally crowded and cars have to park in double lane (wich is illegal but people do it).

You are here to have tacos mainly, and Tacos Arabes specially, since there is a difference between both: Al pastor normally have a pineapple roasting on top of the meat and you get a chunk of it in each taco, and the meat is normally marinated with achiote and other secret recipes so it will look orange-reddish on the rotisserie; Meanwhile Tacos Arabes won’t have neither of those, is the plain meat on a vertical rotisserie served on a tortilla or more correctly on Pan Arabe, which is very similar to a Flour Tortilla but larger and thicker, almost like a mini-pizza.

Today I had a Quesadilla Arabe (thick flour-tortilla and larger, with lots of meat and melted cheese) one Taco Oriental con Queso (almost the same, but smaller, on a corn tortilla) and a large Agua de Jamaica (half liter, Hibiscus soft drink) and the bill was only 56 pesos (less than $5, May '06) and I wasn't able to eat more, though I wanted some dessert I didn't order one as it would have been too much.

The flavor is different to the traditional taco al pastor, because here they don’t marinate the meat and neither put the pineapple. Different also in texture as the slices of meat in the rotisserie are thicker than the average Al Pastor, but you also get the Mexican Salsas to go along, don’t forget the ever present Limón (lime for you Americans) as its acid flavor combines neatly with the meat.

You can visit their website (sorry, only in Spanish) to check the menu and a little bit of the history of the founder.

http://www.tacosarabes.com.mx/

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by JesusW on May 17, 2006

Don Eraki Tacos Arabes
Cumbres de Maltrata 263, Narvarte Mexico City, Mexico
56-39-86-91

Helados Roxy

Restaurant

They offer mostly Mexican fruit flavors: Mamey, cherry, banana, orange, zapote, guayaba, etc.
This ice-cream parlor has been made a legend in Mexico city, all around Mexico you will find La Michoacana, but there are only two Roxy's, they prefer to keep control of the quality and hasn't grown too big.

In Roxy they make their own ice-cream with the traditional recipes and haven´t got into mass producing with cheap fake flavors. This is what I love of them, the quality is excellent, and you will notice that the flavor may not be the same between visits, and that is because real fruit can have little differences year round or because a different variety was available on certain month—this is proof that they only use natural fruit and not artificial flavoring.

They offer mostly Mexican fruit flavors: Mamey, cherry, banana, orange, zapote, guayaba, etc. In total more than 30 flavors, including the traditional vanilla and chocolate.

Roxy can be really busy and I have had to go around the block several times trying to find a parking spot. You can sit at a table or at the bar, like a traditional parlor, something not too common in this days.

Fortunately they opened an Express Window for to-go orders, it takes me just 5 minutes to get loaded with all the ice- cream I need, but the service is as attentive as always, they didn't replace anybody, just divided labor to make things more efficient and give everybody more room behind the bar.

Try it next time you are at the Colonia Condesa or Roma, you never go wrong with them.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by JesusW on May 22, 2006
Carnitas is the specialty of the house, and they love meat, the decoration is hunt related
Carnitas, carnitas Michoacan style.

In the state of Michoacan, there is a big tradition of making carnitas (little meats), and there are many recipes to roast the pig. Each restaurant has its own secret, and you will have a hard time figuring out which was it.

I had a friend from California who had a stay over of several hours in Mexico city, and he is a lover of carnitas, so it was an easy choice to take him here.

At La Negrita (the little back female) you are greeted by a lots of friendly smiles, starting at the parking valet (free for customers) and all the way to your table. The restaurant is decorated with stuffed animals--mostly deers--on top of the walls and beams. On weekends, you are overwhelmed by the musicians singing all kind of rhythms and sometimes they are loud, too much for comfort. As we didn´t want to have the musicians too close, we choose the fartest corner, which was very lonely (fortunately), and they didn´t approach to serenade.

First thing, the waitress will bring the menu, along with a nice plate of guacamole with chicharron and totopos (tortilla chips) for you to munch while you wait for your drinks. They have a full-service bar, but my guest wanted the traditional rice soft drink--horchata--and I always go for Jamaica--hibiscus soft drink--and we got two for each of us.

Specialty of the house is the carnitas, and they are good. You can buy by the taco, or by kilo...it is up to the capacity of your stomach. My friend ordered two tacos, and they were so huge he was able to divide it into other tortillas.

I ordered mixiote de pollo, which is steamed chicken. In the old tradition, it was a piece of chicken bathed in a sauce made with tomato, onion, and several spices that vary with the region and the cook. All of that is wrapped in maguey leaves and steam cooked. These days, they have changed the maguey leaf for aluminum foil, more practical and easier to handle. Both our orders were more than sufficient. I shared some of my chicken with my friend, and there were a lot of leftovers, too bad my stomach has a limited capacity, and taking doggie bags is possible but you loose a lot in flavor.

In places that sell carnitas is normal to have to-go orders, and they have everything ready for you: hot tortillas, fresh white cheese, salsas, and chicharron by the kilo.

The restaurant is about 10 to 15 minutes from the airport (of course, not at rush hour or on a bad traffic day), and if you have some time to spend, go for it--much better than eating at the McD's, or fake Chinese food at the airport, not to mention cheaper.

Hours 9:00 - 18:00 daily.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by JesusW on May 24, 2006

Negrita
Fray Servando Teresa de Mier, Num. 950 Mexico City, Mexico 15900
+52 5751-3770

La Buena Tierra

Restaurant

This is a healthy place to eat and it doesn´t mean boring nor tasteless, they do the vegetarian with a big Mexican influence which is very tasty, but also have fish and chicken dishes for those who are not vegetarian.

The name translate into "Good soil or Good Earth." And I like their motto: "La naturaleza lo creo todo, nosotros solo lo hacemos más rico"—"Nature created everything, we just make it tastier."

The main attraction that stands out from other vegetarian places I have visited is that you enjoy the food as the ambience is fresher and so the menu, is not just greens and roots, here you find a wider range of healthy preparations, it may be torta but with whole grain and more veggies than a normal one. Or maybe some enchiladas but with organic farm raised chickens.

To start you have plenty of juices and smoothies to choose, several colorful and flavorful combinations make it difficult for you to choose.

The menu is clearly Mexican but avoiding the fried area and red meat.

The prices are average, not on the cheap side but well worth them.

Branches:
Polanco
Anatole France # 120
Col. POLANCO CHAPULTEPEC Del. Miguel Hidalgo
5281.2324

Condesa
Atlixco # 94
Col. CONDESA Del. Cuauhtémoc
5211.4242 5211.4229

Insurgentes
Insurgentes Sur #1026 B
Col. VALLE DEL Del. Benito Juárez
5575.1549

Pedregal
Periférico Sur # 4609
Col. PARQUE DEL PEDREGAL Del. Tlalpan
5528.3436 5606.2720
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by JesusW on June 3, 2006
There are small creeks but the water is contaminated, eventhough you can enjoy the area
This National Park used to be the meditation retire for a religious group, thus the name Desierto(Desert) not meaning an arid place, but empty of people. And a lot of people still believe that Leones had to do with the animals, but it was the family name of the first owners of the land.In these days, Desierto de los Leones is one of the last forests around Mexico City, the trees are fighting against pollution and timber groups, not to mention the urban developers who are eyeing this property to build luxury condos and villas, the way it happened in the surrounding area but this area is off-limits thanks to it´s status as protected area.There is an old convent in the center of the park and is a nice place to visit, full of flowers and old architecture. The catacombs had been site for scary ghost histories to entertain visitors, as you have to go underneath with just a candle and it´s really dark down there.There is a cozy restaurant on the premises but is a bit overpriced, so I always eat in the little quesadilla shops outside, and is tastier that way.To get there you need to take a bus at the "Observatorio" subway station, the trip up to the convent may take 30-40 minutes. Make sure to ask the guards about schedules to go back as the park closes at 5:00pm. It´s a long way to the entrance (more than 5km) and walking would be the only option out.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by JesusW on May 6, 2006

Parque Nacional Desierto de los Leones
Camino al Desierto de los Leones México, Mexico 03310
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If you think of pyramids as just stones and rubble, you are wrong, the buildings were richly decorated with colorfull murals and exquisite statutes.
The residence of Gods, that is the name the Aztecs gave to this area, as they found the remains of a culture that spawned this zone a thousand years before. Lot of people make the mistake to think that Teotihuacan and Tenochtitlan belong to the same people; in fact the Teotihuacans were contemporary of the Mayans and ruled around year 900 B.C., while the top of the Aztec Empire is dated to 1300 B.C.

A walk amid the ruins of Teotihuacan is invigorating as you have to reflet on how it was all this constructed (and much more that is lost in the history of time) without metal tools, with no wheel and pulleys, and with no cargo animals involved. That is the amazing part of the pyramids.

What you see is just the remains of incredible buildings rich in color and decorations. When thinking of pyramids you should envision a tall building decorated in red, blue, and ochre, and with lots of geometric shapes, not just a pile of stones forming a mound.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by JesusW on May 8, 2006

Pirámides de Teotihuacan
Carretera México Teotihuacan Km. 46 San Juan Teotihuacan, Mexico 03010
+52 5 9560052

Quetzalcoatl is the Feathered Serpent, and also has the rattles, so he can be poissonous also.
Everybody aims to climb the highest pyramid in Teotihuacan, unfortunately the temple at it´s top is no longer there, but you can visit a very short pyramid (not climb it), is not the Moon (the second largest) but dedicated to a guy with feathers, Quetzalcoatl, the Feathered Serpent God.

He is also known as Kukulcan in the Mayan areas, but here in the central area of Mexico, is associated with Tlaloc God of Rain, whose representations are unequivocally with some kind of goggles, which is unique, only him wears them no matter if in Teotihuacan, Chichen Itza or Copán (Honduras).

In the pyramid you find a richly decorated facade where you will find the head of the serpent with a collar of feathers, and also the end of the snake, the rattle, along with some faces of Tlaloc, corn and sea shells, the latest are not indigenous to this area.

Teotihuacan was a contemporary of Copán, Calakmul, Palenque, Tikal and many other Mayan cities, the trading and influence is overwhelming as the archaeological records show, the architecture and pottery of the Central America zone changed radically after Teotihuacan´s conquest or cultural invasion, we don´t know yet.

Back to the pyramid. Now is off limits but years ago you were able to walk just a few inches from the amazing carvings, today there are important excavations going on and also some restoration works, so sadly you have to climb the small platform built to, guess, cover the pyramid from view at the Citadel. It´s believed that for some reason Quetzalcoatl felt from the favor of the ruling elite at some point because the whole pyramid was obscured from public view (but not destroyed, interesting). The traditional way to honor a building was to build a bigger one on top of the first, without destroying the decoration or murals, but in this case no one has come with a reasonable explanation.

The Citadel is in the farthest south area of the archaeological complex near the old museum, so many tour companies just skip it in order to take you directly to the Sun and Moon complexes and gain more time to take you shopping (all of them get a commission at the stores), but you will miss a great opportunity to admire the facade of this pyramid, make sure the guide will take you to this one. The walk from one end to the other is a long one, it will take you more than 20 minutes under the hot Sun, so is better to go by car.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by JesusW on May 8, 2006

Pirámides de Teotihuacan
Carretera México Teotihuacan Km. 46 San Juan Teotihuacan, Mexico 03010
+52 5 9560052

Don´t miss them, here you find original murals.
In the side of the pyramid of the Moon you will find a small area, you have to climb some steps to get into the Temple of Butterflies "Quetzalpapalotl"—named because of the decoration carved in the columns and patio.

Everything here is original, walls, columns, paint and even the stucco floor, so they ask you not to use high heels out of the wood walkways. The stucco is dyed red, and just looks like it was plastered last year—it´s in such good conditions it would be a shame if you damage it.

The columns have carved pictures of butterflies and birds, some of them still have the eyes made of obsidian—a local precious stone that is black-grey and shines in the same way a hologram viewed from different angles.

After you finish visiting the patio, don´t go back to the pyramids or Deads Row. Instead, go down to your right and enter the subterranean passages where you will find the real housing complex and some excellent murals.
The mural depict everything from animals (a parrot is easy to spot), to flowers, and complex geometrical shapes. All the city was decorated with colorful murals. It is a shame that we always think about ruins as just stones piles together... these weren´t.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by JesusW on May 8, 2006

Pirámides de Teotihuacan
Carretera México Teotihuacan Km. 46 San Juan Teotihuacan, Mexico 03010
+52 5 9560052

The buildings were decorated with stone representation of the divine animals, in this case the Eagle
It began with the discovery of the Coyoxáhuqui stone by a Power & Electricity Co. employee digging some holes to place a new pipe. He realized that something with this beauty was important, so he stopped all diggings in the area and gathered his supervisor, who also was aware this was an important finding. After many years of excavation by professional archaeologists, the Mayor Temple of the Aztec culture was re-discovered, sadly only the basements as the Spanish conquerors razed the mayor structure to the ground.

This is a really fine archeological site. You walk in the middle of the original site, close to the real thing, pyramid foundations, temples, artifacts, etc., before entering this amazing museum.

At the entrance to the museum building you will see the gigantic stone that represents Coyolxauhqui and was the principal motive for renovating the excavations on this area.

Don´t miss a visit, it's a must-do.

http://www.conaculta.gob.mx/templomayor/museo.html
Their website is very neatly done and offers a virtual tour just to open your appetite, sorry just in Spanish, but the audiovisual part is still amazing .

I have more about this marvelous place:
http://www.igougo.com/planning/journalEntryOverview.asp?JournalID=54176
Templo Mayor
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by JesusW on May 8, 2006

Museo del Templo Mayor
Seminario 8 México, Mexico 06060
+52 5 5424784

The new building was made to accomodate large multitudes, there are several access that can be used simultaneously, the Virgin is at the center, just below the cross.
This is the most visited temple in México, people from all over the country come in pilgrimage and even from countries as distant as Australia!

The story of the Indian Juan Diego and his encounter with the Virgin of Tepeyac (the name of the hill where the sanctuary is located) dates from the era of the Spanish conquest, over the years the sanctuary has been changed because of the multitudes can´t fit in the older temples. The original chapel is at the top of the hill, where Virgin Guadalupe asked it to be built, but you will find a modern building in the huge plaza at the feet of the hill, with an older big one being salvaged from sinking.

On the way from the newest temple to the original one on the hill, you will pass along nicely kept gardens featuring roses. The roses are an important part of the story as the bishop of Tlatelolco didn't believe on Juan Diego's account and demanded proof, so the Virgin gave the fresh roses to Juan Diego and he put them on his white mantle, when he arrived and showed the roses, the second miracle was shown as the image of the Virgin was stamped in his mantle, which is now on display at the new basilica.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by JesusW on May 17, 2006

Antigua Basilica de Guadelupe
Plaza de las Americas 1 Mexico City, Mexico

The boat are "trajineras" and the parcels you see around full of trees and crops are "chinampas" artificial islands.

The name is misleading but it has stuck in everybody´s mind, the gardens are not floating at all.

Chinampas. This is the proper name of the parcels where people grow from vegetables to flowers all year round (the area is extremely productive, with as much as 3 crops a year).
The word comes from the Nahuatl word chinamitl, meaning "square made of canes." A chinampa is an artificial patch of soil, a man made island, it starts with a wooden barge that is steadily filled with soil until it slowly sinks to the bottom of the lake, in the sinking process the "walls" of the parcel are kept above the level of the water by adding more canes on top and more soil. The lake was never too deep so it´s not a difficult process. The idea was to make some landfill without killing the lake at the same time, and also having a very fertile parcel with full access to a year-round supply of water.

The trip. You go to one of the several docks embarcadero available and agree with the driver a price per hour (last time I was there it was 140 Mexican pesos (2005) for one hour, in a 12 passenger boat (blue roof). The boats are called trajineras and are driven like the gondolas in Venice by a guy pushing on a large pole.


During your trip you have a view of the parcels and some greenhouses, in the touristic area is mostly flowers or plants to sell, you normally don´t go to the orchards unless you specifically ask for that. In the main channel which is very wide you will find musicians (mariachis, trios, duos) to sing for you (it was 50 mxp per song in 2005) they may travel in their own trajinera, boat or just transfer from boat to boat. The trajineras are all roofed and decorated with fake flowers and each has a woman's name, if you are lucky you may find the one you like. Inside the trajinera there are benches alongside all the boat and tables in the middle for you to throw a party or enjoy a picnic, you can bring your own food or buy at the many trajineras that sell all kind of food from corn on the cob, quesadillas, tacos to pollo con mole and arroz. Beers are easily available.

To arrive you have many options, the cheapest is to take the subway and transfer in Taxqueña station to the "A" line which uses trams on rails to get to Xochimilco, ask which station is more convenient to get to the dock you choose. It may take you an hour or 1:20 min. to get there from Polanco or Downtown. By bus, take any going directly to Xochimilco (ask the concierge at your hotel) or if Periferico is near, take the one heading south and transfer in Villa Coapa. By taxi, don´t worry on the way back, there are many safe taxi hubs.

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by JesusW on May 17, 2006

Xochimilco´s Floating Gardens
Xochimilco Mexico City, Mexico
+52 5 676 0810

In this case the ticket is free, no admission charges, but you get to compare three different cultures and their construction styles.

This plaza is special because in the same view you get three different cultures: Aztec, Spanish, and Mexican.
Yes, there is a difference between Mexican and Spanish, the Mexican culture is a blend of the Mesoamerican people with all the Spanish word. There are things unique to Mexican culture that has not been reproduced in other conquered countries in Latin America or the Caribbean.

In Plaza de las tres culturas you find the encounter of these differences with the Aztec ruins of Tlatelolco, the Spanish temple, and the Mexican modern (1970s) buildings, and concepts.

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by JesusW on May 20, 2006

Plaza de las Tres Culturas
Eje Central & Ricardo Flores Magon Mexico City, Mexico

The former Teatro Nacional grew in this marble marvel.

This is a heavy thing, so heavy with Italian Carrara marble that this colossal building is sinking!!!

The architect had a great, grandiose idea, but it was too much for the terrain sustaining it, every year the building sinks a few millimeters, but the sum over the years is more than a meter.

The sinking problem is nothing from this century, it began during the initial phase of setting up the metal structure, but the architect thought that with some corrective procedures it would be enough, he was so wrong but still decided to continue with the edification.

In 1908 some engineers suggested some corrective measures but as the administrators considered it too expensive, opted for the cheap way. After the injection of about 1859 tons of cement and limestone between 1910 and 1912 the sinking process slowed a bit, but in the years after, more injections have been required, fortunately the compaction of the soil due to the great weight of the building has helped to slow the sinking in recent years.

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by JesusW on May 20, 2006

Palacio de Bellas Artes
Avenida Juárez y Eje Lázaro Cárdenas Mexico City, Mexico 06050
+52 5 5122593; +52 5

Day of the Death

Activity

Last 5 years the local government has made a display re-creating cemeteries and other offerings for the Death each Nov 2nd.
The celebration of the Day of the Death "Día de los Muertos", dates from the ancient cultures of Mesoamerica and has been transformed over the pass of time with a blend of Christian faith and the original ideas of polytheism.

There are two different days the 1st and 2nd of Novembre, the first is for the Little Death or Children (Pequeños Difuntos) and the second is for the grownups. In ancient Aztec customs there were more distinctions: The warriors that passed away in war; The mother that died while giving birth; And more.

The Aztec god for Death was Mictecutli, and is represented as someone with an all bone head (you can clearly see the jaw).
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by JesusW on May 22, 2006

Day of the Death (General)
All over Mexico, especially in little towns. Mexico City, Mexico

It´s also the prefered point of meeting for demonstrations or to celebrate soccer victories.
This monument was built in honor of the Independence of 1810. Construction began in 1902 and was developed in 1910.

Everybody calls it "El Angel" (the -male- angel) which is completely wrong, as you can clearly see the breasts of a female character, but nobody cares. Although the real name of the monument is the Winged Victory (La Victoría alada) almost nobody knows it, so don´t use that name to get directions to get there.

The Independence from Spain dominance was fought by many important leaders, some of them are honored at this monument and even a few of them are buried here.

The structure of the column is made on white stone and the statues at the base represent Law, War, Justice and Peace, along with the statues of four of the leaders that lead the war to success.

There is a very interesting fact about the monument, it has very good foundations, but the rest of the city has being sinking slowly (this used to be a lake but the Spanish conquerors decided to drain it) and since it´s construction, it has been needed to -add- steps at the base of the monument to keep it accessible. You can see the original level of the city on what today is the second platform, you have to climb around 14 steps more than in 1910. After that, there are 9 steps (the originally planned ones) and you reach the monument, on the side facing Chapultepec you find an Eternal flame (which wasn´t part of the original plan), on the opposite side you find the entrance to the mausoleum and you can visit the urns with the remains of some of the heroes.

A stair with like 200 steps that takes you to the top (it was allowed to climb in the past, you have to check on site if that is possible).

At the top rests the statue of the "angel", which is cast on bronze with a layer of gold foil. During the earthquake of 1957 the statue fell to the ground and broke in several pieces, the original head is kept at the "Museo de la Ciudad de México" but the rest was repaired and replaced with a stronger hold (it didn´t had any damage in 1985, the strongest earthquake to date).

The monument has been strongly tied to the image of the city and also lot of political demonstrations make it the starting point or a reunion point for speeches. Also, during football celebrations the place go nuts and police has to fence the area as hooligans loved to roam free in the past, causing big damages.

More info at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_%C3%81ngel
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by JesusW on June 3, 2006

Mausoleo del Angel de la Independencia
Paseo de la Reforma y Florencia Mexico City, Mexico 06600
+52 5 7031025

Tianguis

Activity

The street market can be up to 10 blocks long and will block all traffic on such street.
Tianguis is the equivalent of "flea market" but not quite. It indeed is a street market held every week on the same spot but here you don´t go for second hand items, but for your weekly grocery supply maybe a shirt some toys or electronics, everything is available on a tianguis (a Nahuatl—language spoken by the Aztecs and still available in little towns—word).

Every week there is a pink-roofed invasion, taking place on the same street. Every week they come early, take the whole street, and by dusk they are picking their chairs and brooming the street to move to a different area of the city. This tradition is so strong that even big supermarkets like Wal-Mart has to copy the strategy and hold sales (mostly on Wednesday) to attract customers.

The reason that tianguis are still popular may be that it is easier for the persons running the house to go shopping a few blocks from their house, and also that there is a good chance you will get better quality or lower prices than at the big stores. Also you get to know the vendors very well, and can ask for special requests for next week.

Be careful if you want to visit, there are basically very few access points and you may feel a little bit claustrophobic, as each stand is just a couple inches from the next and the previous one, and space is precious. The traditional pink roof may be a little bit dangerous for you if you are taller than the average Mexican, as the owners just tie ropes wherever they can, no matter if security for the customers is at risk. Also, watch down for any kind of obstacles like big stones anchoring the previously mentioned ropes, piles of slippery trash, or just boxes carelessly arranged in the middle of the walkway.

The goods offered at a tianguis are as varied as it can possibly be: fruits, vegetables, meat, poultry, seafood, candy, house decoration, TVs, stereos, clothes, shoes, watches, Walkmans, home tools, silverware, pots, pans, flowers, books, magazines, junk jewelry, cheap sunglasses—in one world: endless.

If you are staying at the hotel zone of Chapultepec, a good day try is on Saturday. Look for the "Angela Peralta" Theater at Lincon park. Grocery prices are lower than at other tianguis, due to the tourists and high-class neighborhood area, but it is still interesting.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by JesusW on June 4, 2006
This fountain has suffered a lot of censorship but finally won the right to stay nude as the original plan stablished
This sculpture of a pretty attractive female archer has suffered a long history of scandal and prudish controversy.

The popular name is "la Diana Cazadora" or Diana the huntress, but the original name given by the sculptor is "La Flechadora del Norte" or The Northern Arrow thrower (not archer, by the way).

The story goes that the sculptor had different models posing for him and that he copied different parts of each depending on each girl´s best attribute, another story (the most believable) says that there was one very beautiful and athletic girl and she was the wife of a very powerful guy in the petroleum (oil) industry and she didn´t want her identity to be revealed.

Anyway, the statue depicts a completely nude female, resting one knee on a stone and holding an arch and in position for throwing an arrow. The people thought of a huntress but in reality she is pointing to the north.

In the prudish era in which the statue was created there was a society called the League of Decency (formed by wealthy society ladies with nothing else to do) that enforced things to be "prudish" and this statue wasn´t on their eyes. So they forced the statue to have a loincloth added, it was also made of bronze, but after the country evolved, the extra piece was removed. Also, the statue was relegated to a busy corner with bad visibility, at the end of the 20th century it was relocated to its actual place in the middle of Paseo de la Reforma where everybody can enjoy her attributes.


  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by JesusW on June 13, 2006

Fuente de la Diana Cazadora
Paseo de la Reforma Mexico City, Mexico

Turibus

Activity

It´s also the prefered point of meeting for demonstrations or to celebrate soccer victories.
The turibus is the red double decker bus that makes a 30km circuit in the touristic downtown area of Mexico City, you have to take it to enjoy a worry-free ride around one of the largest cities in the world.

I normally don´t recommend very touristy activities for foreigners, as they tend to be a tourist trap, but this is not the case. With the big convenience of this bus, you can visit all the downtown area in a nice 3-hour trip or do it with unlimited stops as you get a wristband valid for the day with your ticket($115 pesos June 2006), you can get off the bus in any stop you want, wander around looking for what got your attention and catch the next Turibus, the frequency is advertised as 30 to 40 minutes between units.

The circuit covers Reforma Avenue, which was modeled after Paris's Champs Elyses. The un-official starting point is Auditorio Nacional but you can board at any stop, first you reach the Zoo and then the Anthropology Museum, Rufino Tamayo Museum, and Modern Art Museum, then the bus turns right at the fountain of La Diana and gets in the Condesa neighborhood, which is a very bohemian middle class area (lots of cafes and eateries with nice ambience). When you return to Paseo de la Reforma you will see the great monuments to the Independence, Cuahutemoc (one of the last Aztec Emperors), Christopher Columbus, etc. Then you enter into Avenida Juarez, the road to the Historic Center where you will find the old colonial buildings and get into el Zócalo (main square) site of confluence for all kind of demonstrations and cultural gatherings, here you find the National Palace (office of the president) the cathedral and Templo Mayor.


As Mexico city gets a lot of international tourism, the turibus is equipped with pre-recorded explanations of the places in the route, the available languages are: Spanish, English, French, German, Italian, and Japanese, rental headphones are included with your ticket and you just need to plug them at your seat.

Service hours: 9am - 9pm daily. Better have a jacket and hat just in case is too cold, too rainy or too hot, all of them can happen in this crazy little town on the same day.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by JesusW on June 13, 2006

Turibus
Mexico City, Mexico
+52 5563-6693

Mercado Coyoacan

Activity

You find from a little basket for the bread to shooping bags and baskets so big you can carry a full dog in.
This market is very local but also safe for tourists.

Near the Coyoacan main square you will find this market. It has nothing that can't be found in other markets in Mexico City, so you won´t miss anything you were looking for, but in a very safe environment and within reach of lots of cultural surprises.

In the Mexican markets you will find a blend of food and goods, all kinds of them, from watches to shirts to plastic toys to electronics. The nice part of Coyoacan market is that there are more stands that sell souvenirs for tourists, but at a very good price, nothing like the prices you get at expensive tourist traps.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by JesusW on September 1, 2006

Mercado de Coyoacán
Centro de Coyoacán (entre Hidalgo y Malitzin) Mexico City, Mexico 04100
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You only have a chance to enjoy -and see- the gardens on weekdays, as the busy time is on weekends when all you see is the stands vending all kind of stuff
If you want the whole enchilada, go on a weekend; otherwise, you have the risk of finding it charming, quiet—without many vendors.

The charm of Coyoacan (the place of Coyotes) is the architecture, completely colonial with some hints of Mexican taste, especially the colors. You will find very European-looking buildings with tall wood doors and narrow cobblestone streets, something not seen in the Valley of Mexico before the conquest.

You may think that the streets are too narrow for a car to pass, and in some cases you will be right—the Spanish didn´t have the sense of orthogonality and the need for wide streets that ancient cultures had.

The main square in Coyoacan is composed by two small plazas; one of them has a fountain with a statue that represents the name of the area, the Coyote.

On weekends this plazas are full of life—you won´t be able to pass between all the little stands that sell things, from T-shirts to "hippie-era" necklaces, hats, and earrings, and then there are food vendors. There are guys doing piercings and tattoos and there are traditional clothes, from Chiapas and all the Zapatista souvenirs you can think of.

During weekdays you will find a tranquil and very 16th-century European-looking neighborhood with the Mexican charm.

For more, take a look of Coyocan: the Colonial city inside the city.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by JesusW on September 1, 2006

Coyoacan (General)
Mexico City, Mexico

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