Christmas Markets of Bavaria

Christmas Markets in Germany have many names, Weinachtsmarkt and Christkindlmarkt or Christkindlesmarkt are the most common. One of the Christmas Markets in Munich is Kripperlmarkt or Manger Market. This journal is intended to be a visual celebration of a wonderful German tradition, documenting the Christmas markets I visited in Bavaria in Nov/Dec, 2008.

First, I must make plain that other than small lights in windows, most families in Germany do not decorate their homes and yards with Christmas lights, Nativity scenes, or Santa Clauses and sleighs. They decorate their communities and cities instead. Christmas, in most parts of Europe, is a family and community oriented celebration.

Next, I should talk about the weather. Winter is usually cold and dull at this time of year in much of Germany. Temperatures during the day generally hover just above or below the freezing mark. Consequently, rain, drizzle, and stinging sleet are common. People going to the Christmas markets are well-layered with warm clothing including scarves and heavy soled shoes. And, most everyone carries an umbrella. Germans do not let cold, damp, rain, sleet, or snow, or a combination of the three, keep them from the Christmas Markets. Besides, there are always pastry shops with dining room facilities never very far from the market. Make the best of it.

Every year in all parts of Germany, Christmas markets appear in almost every village, town, and city throughout the country. These markets celebrate not only Christian heritage, but the spirit of the season. In the cities the result is a giant month long party that draws visitors from across Europe, Asia, and the Americas. One Christmas market in particular, Nürnberg's Christkindlesmarkt, draws over two million visitors each year.

German Christmas markets have been recorded as far back as the 11th century. The most famous market is in Nürnberg and while it is by no means the largest, it is reputed to be the best, according to German experts. I concur that it is the best, but I am prejudiced since I lived in that city for three years.

My familiarity with the wonderful Christmas markets goes back over 45 years to when I was stationed in Nürnberg, Germany. I was very much affected by the Christmas season and how it was celebrated in that country. World War II was only seventeen years in the past, and while rubble was still visible in many areas, the young and old, rich and poor commingled with each other at the Christmas Markets. The mood was always festive. It was much different from anything that I had ever experienced, and I was captivated. I visited some of the markets in and around Nürnberg in that first year of 1962, including the Christkindlesmarkt in that city. The following two years, 1963 and 1964, I branched out each Christmas season and visited many German and Bavarian cities and towns. My favorite Christmas Market was and remains Nürnberg's Christkindlesmarkt.

While I have been fortunate to have returned to Germany many times since 1965, this year was the first time I visited during the Christmas season. In spite of lousy weather (lots of cold, biting rain), it was wonderful to see that the changes are not as great as I expected. There are still many kiosks selling locally made and German made Christmas ornaments and decorations, plus all kinds of winter articles. I expected to see kiosks filled with merchandise from third world countries, and there was some, but not as much as I expected. The prices are certainly different than in 1962 though. Anyway, in spite of the weather, it was just as wonderful as I remembered.

Christmas markets are found in most Bavarian cities and towns. Indeed, they are found throughout all of Europe. The small markets are very community oriented and the kiosk sponsors are frequently from schools, local merchants, and community organizations. They usually are open on one or two weekends during the season. In the cities it's a different story. Most markets are open for the entire month and are the main Christmas markets for the folks in outlying areas. Many of these markets are very traditional and many centuries old.

The most traditional "opening" day for the larger city Christmas Markets is normally the last Friday of November. The exact day is the Friday before the first Sunday of Advent. The last day is December 24th for most markets although some remain open until January 1st. Frequently a city has a main Christmas market located in the main city square, and other neighborhood markets as well. For example, Munich has 85 recognized Christmas markets. The same is true of community markets, which are usually held near the city hall. These smaller markets are usually open for a shorter period of time, but the point is that there is always a market for everyone.

And then there is the food...

Since the Christmas markets are usually held in the city hall square, one will always find many restaurants, gasthauses, and small cafes right in the area. These are especially welcome in the winter. There are many glühwein (mulled wine) kiosks and local sausage kiosks. There are kiosks selling pretzels, baked apples, roasted almonds and other nuts, beer, wine, as well as the absolutely wonderful Lebkuchen or German gingerbread which is generally available only at Christmas time. Needless to say, the sights are wonderfully colorful and the market aromas are mouth watering; no one leaves hungry. I hope that my images will convey something of these sights and sounds of a very important side of Germany that most people never experience.

I hope that you will come along on this journey. I'll begin with Munich.

Note: The markets have different spellings. For example, in Munich it is Christkindlmarkt, while in Nürnberg it is Christkindlesmarkt. I will try to get the spellings right.

As Germany's third largest city Munich isn't content with just one Christmas market; the city has 85. Some are quite large and neighborhood markets are quite small and specialized. This review documents the largest and most well-known of the markets, the "Kripperlmarkt" or "Manger Market."

The market is located in the famous Marienplatz square in front of the "Neues Rathaus" or "New City Hall." Kiosks are set-up all over the square and then down two parallel streets - Rosenstr. and Rindermarkt. Over 140 stalls are jammed into this area. The market is declared "open" by Munich's Lord Mayor at 5:00 PM on the last Friday before the first Sunday in Advent (usually the last Friday in November). Thousands attend the ceremony.

The market is called the "Kripperlmarkt" or "Manger Market." and mangers are located in multiple parts of the market. Munich is mostly Roman Catholic and the churches are open during the day with special Christmas decorations. There are numerous Nativity Scenes throughout the square.

In front of the New City Hall is the 30 foot Christmas tree with 2500 clear lights representing the color of candles. Historically, the first mention of a "Nicholas Market" was in 1642, however it is thought that the Winter Market may go back to the fourteenth century. In 1806 the name of the market was changed to Christkindlmarkt. It was not until 1972 that the market's permanent home was changed to its present location.

Like all Christmas Markets, anytime is a good time to visit, but the best time to visit is in the evening. That is when the colors appear brightest and any wind dies down so that the aromas of candles, roasting sausages, potato pancakes, hot spiced wine (Glühwein), Lebkuchen and other baked goods wafts through the entire area. Like snow, baked apples, gingerbread, roast almonds, ginger nuts and plum figurines are essential to a Bavarian Christmas.

Welcome to Munich!


Next stop: the most famous of them all, Nürnberg's Christkindlesmarkt

I remember Eddie Fisher. He’s an American singer (now in his 80's), who is today known best for the fact that he was married to Debbie Reynolds, Elizabeth Taylor, and Connie Stevens. As a singer, he is best remembered for his extraordinary treatment of his signature song, "Oh My Papa." Popular from the late 1940's forward, his beautiful tenor voice was heard around the world. He had forty some songs that made it to the top 40 on the Hit Parade Top 100. But the song for which I remember him best, however, is his rendition of "That’s What Christmas Means To Me."

I first heard the song at Christmas time when I was serving in the US Army and stationed in Nürnberg, Germany. The song was popular among many homesick servicemen at the time and was played frequently on Armed Forces Radio as well as on many German stations. I heard the song for the first time just after I had returned from an evening at what was Germany’s most famous, and now world famous Christ Child’s Market, or Christkindlesmarkt, held in the "Old City" of Nürnberg. I had sampled more than one mug of the famous Glühwein (mulled wine) and had consumed considerably more Nürnberger Bratwurst than was healthy, and I was in great spirits when I first heard that song. To this day, Nürnberg’s Christkindlesmarkt still encapsulates what Christmas means to me.

The Christmas season is a wonderful time of year and I always enjoy it, but I have longed for the feelings I remember in a magic city over forty-five years ago. While I have returned to Germany and to Nürnberg many times since those days past, it was finally this year, 2008, that I returned to Germany especially for the Christmas markets, and especially for Nürnberg’s Christkindlesmarkt. I anticipated that it would not be the same as it was nearly a half century ago and I kept my expectations in check. I needn't have. It was so worth the wait.

It is a relatively short walk from the Hauptbahnhof to the Hauptmarkt (main market square). Coming out the tunnel from the station I walked into the pedestrian zone and soon came to a view of the Imperial Castle off in the distance. Christmas decorations were strung across Königstrasse and hung on street lights. I was swept along by the crowd and walked past Lorenzkirche, down the hill to the square. The sun had begun setting and the lights from the stalls filled the square with a warm inviting glow. Some stalls were selling the famous and delicious finger-size Nürnberger Bratwurst, some sold hot spiced wine (Glühwein), still others were selling potato pancakes, scented candles, lebkuchen and other baked breads and rolls, baked apples, roast almonds, ginger nuts; there was even popcorn. The aromas were wonderful. The entire square with its striped red and white stall roofs was as I remembered.

I had a brat sandwich (three small Nürnberger Bratwurst in a roll) and I wandered through the stalls (over 160) making photographs while looking for a vantage point from which to photograph the Opening Ceremony. I found a spot that afforded me a good view and grabbed it even though I had to stand in one place for over an hour. I waited for the twilight to evolve into night and 5:00 PM.

On the last Friday before the first Sunday of Advent - in other words, usually the last Friday of November, at 5:00 PM, the market square was plunged into total darkness and when the lights came back in less than one minute later, spotlights lit the balcony of the Frauenkirch (Church of Our Lady). As wonderful memories of the past came flooding back to me and my eyes filled with tears (as did those of many others), I was struck by the simple beauty of the brief opening ceremony (less than 30 minutes long), the Christkind or Christ Child, but mostly by the complete silence of over twenty five thousand people watching the ceremony. From behind me I could hear the cameras of the professional photographers over 50 feet away, but nothing else. It was cold, yet there were no children crying; there were no sounds other than the voice of a lovely teen-age girl, the Christkind, speaking the text that has been spoken by all of the Christkinds in recent memory. Other than her voice, there was complete silence except for the few accompanying musical instruments and a choir that probably would have been present in 1628 (the first recorded mention of this Christmas market).

Times have changed since 1962. The traditions of many cultures are being lost in the generation changes. But while some of the decorations have been modernized (electric bulbs instead of lit candles), the Christkindlesmarkts in so many German cities continue to remind us of the Spirit of Christmas. At least it does to me. I hope that my images will bring some of that same joy to you.

Welcome to Nürnberg!


Next stop: Rothenburg ob der Tauber

There is no bad time to go to Rothenburg ob der Tauber. It is a truly magic city 365 days a year. I have been there all seasons and in every kind of weather. Rothenburg never disappoints. In spite of the cold and the crowds of tourists (many Japanese), it was great. Rothenburg always has its' effect.

I was there with my nephews and one of their friends. Two of them had new cameras and thought it would be a good day to try them out. We didn't get to the city until after 2:00 PM as one of my nephews believes that his bed is the safest place to be. Even then the city was mobbed.

I have done other reviews on Rothenburg, but I have not been to the Christmas Market in over 45 years. This writing will cover only the Christmas Market but the photographs will include some of the scenes at night.

Rothenburg has guest tourists throughout the year. The best time to do anything is either early in the morning or late in the evening. The tour buses arrive between 10:00 AM and 1:00 PM and most are gone by 6:00 PM (except during the Christmas Market when they stay a little later because the city is so lovely at night). I always suggest at least a one night stay in Rothenburg because there are so many things to do and the nights without the day-tourists are special.

The Christmas Market is relatively small for a couple of reasons. First, it is difficult to fit the huge number of tourists in the city without the booths, and second, most of the shops that line the major streets are booths in themselves. In any case, what I saw was huge crowds and big smiles on the faces of everyone (except for one little guy who was pretty bored. One of my comrades got a picture of him and it is included.

As stated, the Christmas market on the main square (Hauptmarkt) is small and without any booths that have really special merchandise. While it is not run-of-the-mill third world stuff, it is not overly special. What sets Rothenburg apart is what the Christmas Market does to the people that come to the market. There is romance everywhere. People just kind of let themselves go and really enjoy the season. Young couples or families with big-eyed children, or grandparents holding hands as they walk down cobblestone streets and alleys. There is a joy that is palpable as people walk leisurely through the streets enjoying the fragrances of gingerbread, mulled wine, and bratwurst on outside grills. Even though we had all eaten, walking past restaurants was difficult because the aromas were so inviting. Just being in that city lifts one's spirit and soothes one's soul. At least it does for me.

As the twilight becomes night (around 5:00 PM), all of the lights of the city and the Christmas lights blend together marvelously. We all tried to capture it photographically, but I really don't know how well we did. You decide.

Gotta love Rothenburg!!!


On to Coburg

"It was a cold and blustery day." It was raining and sleeting and windy and yuk. It was a day that I would have been delighted to be inside near a nice fire. This was the day before I had to return to Munich to catch my flight. It was the only day and was it not Coburg, I would have stayed inside.

I am always happy to go to Coburg. It is the northernmost city in Bavaria and a treasure not on the tourist trail. Coburg has an exquisite Old City (Altstadt), one of my favorite fortresses (Festung or Vesta Coburg), and a population who truly love their city. I do believe that there is a civic pride in the residents that is well ahead of most cities.

Following WWII and until German Reunification, there was a large American military presence here so English is almost a second language in the area. There are two sports pubs which support two local baseball (yep, baseball) teams. The city has a fascinating history and until WWI was the family name for what is now the House of Windsor - the English royal family. The family name of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha is involved in the royal families of most of Europe in one way or another.

The Christmas Market is a little more upscale than most. By that I mean the the objects for sale are a little (or a lot) more expensive. For food, crepes, omlettes, and very high quality ice cream with very expensive honey are available (and busy) besides the normal bratwurst and Glühwein. Lebkuchen from family recipes is available in the shops as well as at the stalls. Coburg has its own special bratwurst recipe going back centuries. It is most often served on a roll (semmeln) and extending out of the roll by about three inches on each side. I find it to be a super recipe. Last, there is an old time butcher shop with wonderful sausages, cold cuts, and ham.

This market is not only more upscale in food and gifts. It is also ahead in technology. Instead of regular Christmas tree lights throughout the area more of the stalls are making use of fiber optics. In the center of the square is a cocktail area with rough hewn tables and hundreds of fiber optic strings poked through the tarpaulin top of the area (see photograph).

When it comes to kids, Coburg is not to be outdone by any city remotely near its size. There are rides for the kids and the expressions on their faces is wonderful (see photographs). Finally, there is a gingerbread house with a flying witch. One look at her and the kids will be good.

Among the other interesting booths were a sensational woodcarver, the butcher shop I mentioned, a cocktail bar, a candle booth, as well as others that I forgot to photograph and therefore don't remember.

Surprisingly, other than housing, the cost of living in Coburg is not much higher than other cities in Bavaria and certainly less expensive than Munich.

Come to Coburg.


Next stop: Ansbach

Ansbach is a small Baroque city of about 40,000 inhabitants. It is an old city with written records going back to about 700 AD. The capitol of Middle Franconia, and 26 miles Southwest of Nürnberg, it was ceded to Bavaria by Napoleon in 1806. It is one of the cities that supported Martin Luther during the Reformation. The "old city" of Ansbach was relatively unscathed by both the Thirty Years War and WWII. Some of the buildings in the "Altstadt" date back to the 1600's.

The Christmas Market in Ansbach is small, with mostly local vendors. Although the city has close proximity to Nürnberg, the most famous Christmas Market (Christkindlesmarkt) in Germany, it does not mean that it is less charming than its big sister.

Decorations on lightposts lead the way to the Weinachts Markt in the "old city." Walking through the Christmas Market arch and into the section of the city where the stalls begin, I found a small train for children, lots of stalls lining each side of the street selling ornaments, nutcrackers, bratwurst and twenty inch long hot dogs. The atmosphere was festive even when the weather kept most people at home. The day that I was there, it was raining and a bit windy which made the rain sting when it hit my face. It was not a good day for photographs because of the rain, but when it stopped for brief intervals I was able to make a few decent images. Since it was not a good day to be outside, I did make a couple of side trips to visit some of the churches in the city.

St. Gumbertus (pictured) is a today Protestant church which started as a Benedictine monastery built between between 748 AD and the Reformation. It had been the been the permanent residence and headquarters of the Franconian Hohenzollern's until it became the Hofkirche of the Margraves of Ansbach. It is a special church because it has the largest baroque organ in Franconia. This organ (pictured) has 47 registers and was built in the 1730's. It was rebuilt between 2003-2007. I was fortunate to have gone inside the church during organ practice. It was marvelous. One does not have to be an organ fan to appreciate this masterpiece.

Ansbach is one of the few cities in Germany that still has an American military presence so I heard a good bit of English being spoken in the gasthauses and restaurants as well as on the street. Most of the shopkeepers and clerks spoke very good English so I did not have to resort to my very rudimentary German.

Ansbach is a small city with an impressive history, a wonderful palace, two important churches, good food, and lots of English. It is a very worthwhile day trip from Nürnberg. I will cover the city at a later time.


Next stop: Oberasbach

Oberasbach is one of the suburbs to the Southwest of Nürnberg, Germany. It is very much a bedroom community in that most residents are employed in Nürnberg. The name of the village is part of a larger group of smaller villages incorporated into one district. There are numerous small churches, markets, bakeries, butcher shops, etc., but nothing large. It has its own railroad stop and there is talk about extending the S-Bahn line (light rail) all the way to the village. It has it's own city hall, school system, police department, and fire department (volunteer). It is very friendly and the neighborhood homes and gardens are well-tended and lovely. It is a super place to live.

The incorporated villages of Oberasbach have a small Christmas Market that is open only one weekend. In 2008 the Market had about 15 stalls which sold community-made articles, a book fair, sister city booths in the city hall and music from its French sister city. There is certainly something to be said for these small-town festivals. It's called community pride. Most of the articles for sale are hand made by members of the various associations, schools, and churches.

It was very cold 32 F and rainy on the day that we walked from the village of Unterasbach to Oberasbach, about two miles. Thankfully, the rain was letting up just as we arrived in the town. Though it was small and community oriented, the Christmas market was no less crowded than the major market in Nürnberg. Families strolled through the stalls looking at the articles for sale, or the bratwurst and pork steaks being grilled at the hot food booth. Adults and teens enjoyed the Glüwein and there was fruit juice and warm punch for the kids. There was a tent just for children with a story reader and face painting. A small stage featured various church choirs, children's choirs, an elementary school band, and a couple of traditional Bavarian bands (oom-pah). All in all, it was delightful.


Last stop coming: Bamberg

Bamberg, Germany is one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites and deservedly so. This very old city (pre-1000 AD) is one of the true gems north of the Alps. The magnificent old buildings, wonderful churches and cathedrals are awe-inspiring, but its elevated status is due mostly to it's almost perfect medieval architecture. Bamberg was fortunate to escape damage by allied bombings in WWII which left the present city as it has been for many centuries. The Bamberg DOM or cathedral is a four-spired edifice of glorious proportions and contains the tombs of emperor Henry II and Pope Clement II, the only Pope not interred in Rome. Michaelsburg Monastery looks down from it's very majestic height above the city. Bamberg is a city of spires.

Parenthetically, this review is concerned with only the Bamberg Christmas Market and my four out of five recommendation reflects only the Christmas Market. The city is one of the "Do Not Miss" cities of Germany and rates a five out of five at least. As an aside for visitors, this city requires a minimum of two full days to fully appreciate all that is available and even then it may not be enough. Like many other small German cities, Bamberg is a place in which to poke around, explore at a leisurely pace, and is certainly one of my "Experiential Cities." Trust me on this.

The Christmas Market of this medieval city - population about 70,000 residents - is located in the old city at Maxplatz. The center of the square is dominated by a large fountain called "Maximilianbrunnen" ("Maximilian Fountain") honoring "King Max I Joseph of Bavaria and sculpted in 1880 by Ferdinand Miller.

As with all of the Christmas Markets I visited, the weather was no different from all the other days; it sucked. It was cold, gray, dreary, and windy with periods of stinging sleet. I walked about a mile from the train station to Maxplatz and besides the sleet, the wind kept turning my umbrella inside-out. The tiny chunks of ice coming from the sky really hurt while I was trying to reconfigure my only protection to its proper condition. Finally, I said, "To hell with it," and went into a gasthaus to try to fix my umbrella while protected from the sleet. I ordered a bowl of goulasch soup (my favorite, and highly recommended soup) and decided to wait for the sleet to stop, which it finally did. Not great, but an improvement. I returned to the thirty degree weather.

The main entrance to the Christmas Market faces the Maximilianbrunnen (Maximilian Fountain). It can be entered from all four sides and the stalls extend into the converging streets. The stalls are laid out in long rows with a break in the center for the fountain. At one end is an area for children with a few rides and things for children. Here again, the kids' faces tell all.

Like all of the Christmas Markets, this market has booths selling food, lebkuchen, glühwein, gifts, small presents, stocking-stuffers and locally crafted Christmas items. Also present was a real Christmas "spirit." Despite the weather, the air was festive with the aromas of grilling bratwurst, glühwein (hot mulled wine), and lebkuchen. These aromas greeted visitors from a block away, intensifying the emotions of festivity and causing a quickening of the pace of the last block. This is an excellent Christmas Market, well worth a return visit. And although my expectations were probably too high and the weather was so uninviting, I truly did enjoy this Christmas Market. I do regret that I was not at the market at night when the crowds and the lighting add a special warmth to go along with the festive moods and aromas. The weather and a train schedule got me.

One last thought about Bamberg. Because of the continuing American military presence and a university, English is a second language and visitors will find few problems with language.

Despite the weather, Bamberg is worth a visit... anytime.

Last Christmas Market until I brave the weather again. I hope you enjoyed the journal.