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Marienplatz - Where Munich Begins
- November 17, 2007
- Rated 5 of 5 by
flyingscot4 from Madison, Wisconsin
Facts
Marienplatz is the heart and heartbeat of Munich's old city. Much of the old city was badly damaged or destroyed during the allied bombings in 1944-45, and rebuilt following WWII. In that respect, the square is quite new, but it has a history as long as that of Munich, and was central to the Bavarian seat of power for almost nine centuries. The Wittelsbach dynasty's first palace, the "Alter Hof," is one block NE of the New City Hall. The square and its immediate environs appear to be part of the Middle Ages as well as part of the Renaissance. Italian influence can be seen in the Münzhof, (royal stables) as well in the main post office on Maximillianstrasse (which is also one of the most exclusive shopping areas in the world). When leaving the square one has a choice of eight or ten different directions to travel, all of which lead to places worthwhile visiting.
Mariensäule (Mary's Column)
Standing in the center of the Marienplatz is Mariensäule (Mary's Column), after which the square is named. The Mariensäule dates from 1590, and commemorates delivery from the plague. The cherubic figures at the base of the column represent plague, war, heresy, and hunger. The square itself is a centerpiece for the city´s Founding Festival as well as for Fasching celebrations and the ever-popular Christmas market known as the Kripperlmarkt, or Manger Market.
Neues Rathaus (New City Hall)
The dominant and very ornate Flemish Neo-Gothic building on the North is the Neues Rathaus (New City Hall), called that because it was built in the late 1800's. On the face of the tower is the famous Glockenspiel. Designed and built by Georg Hauberisser, it was begun in 1867 and completed in 1908. The beautiful Gothic building escaped heavy damage during WWII, and was used by the US military as a headquarters following the end of that war. There are 40 statues of Bavarian nobility encircling the exterior and at the very top of the tower, is the Munchener Kindl (Munich Monk).. The tower is 85 meters tall and houses the Glockenspiel (carillon) which has 43 bells across three octaves. At the very top of the Glockenspiel there is a cuckoo bird which sounds and flaps its wings. The fourth largest carillon in Europe, the Glockenspiel was a gift to the city of Munich in 1904 by furniture maker Karl Rosipal in celebration of his family's 100 years of furniture making.
My first glimpse of the Neues Rathaus was in September, 1962. At that time there was still rubble in places and many parts of the city were still rebuilding (i.e. the Residenz). Even then it was impressive.
Themes and Glockenspiel performances
During the summer tourist season, the Glockenspiel plays (spiel) three or four times each day: 11 AM, 12 Noon, 5 PM, and 9 PM (depending on the season). There are two different themes, the first in honor of the marriage of Herzog (Duke) Wilhelm V. Jesters and jousters circle each other three times in front of the seated duke and his bride, and on the third pass the blue knight unseats the red knight. The lower performance then begins what is called the "Dance of the Coopers" signifying the deliverance of the city from the plague. There are over thirty different characters as part of the carillon.
On the top of the tower there is a statue of the Münchner Kindl (Munich Child), a monk-robed child which is the emblem of the city and from whom the city gets its' name. The tower can be climbed by steps or elevator. The view is not nearly as good as the one at the tower of Peterskirche, but, as mentioned, there is an elevator.
In the lower level of the building is the "Ratskeller Restaurant." The ambiance is very Bavarian and well-done. There are lots of dark wood furnishings, vaulted ceilings, and the decorations are understated (as as true in most Bavarian restaurants). The flowers on the tables are real, and there is no hint of cheap souvenir junk that adorns most ethnic restaurants in the US. The theme is noticeably gemütlich or "cozy," and the Rathskeller makes one very welcome indeed. The reasonably priced food is traditional Bavarian. I have eaten here numerous times and never been disappointed.
Also located in the building is one of the Tourist Information centers (TI). It is a fountain of information, and the German TI's are among the best in the world. They are very friendly and helpful and the TI should be every traveler's first stop in any city or town.
I have taken great pleasure in this building over the years, and I still do. Today, however, I also watch the crowds and their antics while trying to take photos of each other in front of the Glockenspiel. I have seen more than one tourist standing with his/her back to the Glockenspiel and holding their digital cameras at arms length to take a picture of themselves in front of the carillon.
Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall)
If you are facing the New City Hall, the white building on your right is the Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall). This old and somewhat plain Gothic building is from the 15th century and houses a toy museum today. The tower was destroyed during WWII and rebuilt. In the council chamber, one finds all 99 German coats-of-arms and medallions; all save one: the swastika from the National Socialist Party (Nazi) era.
Transportation to and from Marienplatz
Marienplatz, along with the Hauptbahnhof, is one of the U-Bahn and S-Bahn hubs, the other being at the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). Looking toward the Old Rathaus, there are blue and white signs with an "S" and a "U" which signify a subway station for both the underground subway (U-bahn) and the S-bahn which is underground in the city and above ground as it travels farther into the suburbs. Getting to Marienplatz is easy from anywhere in Munich.
Impressions
Marienplatz is an impressive square. More than most others, I have always liked this square because it is a fun place for young and old and there are always people to watch. There are other European squares that are somewhat more impressive, but this is a square that is for the use of the common folk. This is not a square to which one goes to be "seen," or for bringing friends to, or meeting friends at, or a U-bahn/S-bahn stop. It is a place to eat and drink at reasonable prices and just be congenial. It is a wonderful and relaxing place to just "hang out" for both locals and visitors alike.
Christkindlmarkt (Christ Child Markets)
During the season of Advent (the last Friday of November to December 24th), Munich's Christkindlmarkts (Christ Child Markets) dominate the entire pedestrian zone including Marienplatz. Technically, the beginning of most German Christmas Markets is the last Friday before the first Sunday of Advent, which is usually the last Friday of November. Along with the Christkindlmarkts in numerous other German cities and towns, the spirit of Christmas and the holiday season comes alive in Munich. Since 1972, the Kripperlmarkt (Manger Market) has made it's permanent location location here in Marienplatz. During the week the hundreds of stalls selling holiday foods, and other hand-made ornaments, angels, fig figures, hot wurst, and glühwein (mulled and spiced wine) come alive during the late afternoon and evening. On weekends the stalls are open all day and evening (till about 9:00 PM). In 2008 there were 85 different Christmas Markets in Munich. This festive time of year is a wonderful time to visit this great city.
Story
My favorite story of Marienplatz comes from about 40 years ago. I was watching the Glockenspiel (carillon) when an elderly lady came up to me and said, "You know zat watch?" pointing to the Glockenspiel. I answered, "Yes, I do." in English. She then rattled off about two minutes of very fast Munchener dialect, of which I understood perhaps three words. When she stopped speaking, she looked at me and said, "Now you know all! One mark, bitte." I suddenly realized that she was not kidding. She had performed a service and expected to be paid. I paid.
And so, the heart and heartbeat of Munich beats on at Marienplatz. Try it, you'll like it.
From journal Munich - A City For Everyone
Editor Pick
Marienplatz and Pedestrian Area
- March 16, 2007
- Rated 4 of 5 by
LenR from Townsville, Australia
Most of central Munich is a pedestrian zone and this makes it a great place for meeting, sightseeing, and people-watching. The heart of the area is Marienplatz. Named after the column of the Virgin Mary at its center, the Marienplatz is one of the most famous parts of Munich. It is a centerpiece for the city’s Founding Festival as well as for Fasching celebrations and the popular Christmas market.
The square is famed for its neo-Gothic Town Hall (Rathaus), whose mechanical clock, or Glockenspiel, plays every day at various times. The facade of the Rathaus is amazing but the appearance is misleading. The Rathaus was not built in the middle ages as it might seem, but in the late 19th century - one example of German "Gründerzeit style”.
Everyone visiting Munich must go to, and will inevitably end up at, Marienplatz. As well as the glockenspiel, there is the Old Rathaus to see, and you are just a few steps from the double-domed cathedral and the Viktualienmarkt. In the Middle Ages, the square used to be a market place as well as the place where tournaments and festivities took place. In the 19th century Marienplatz's market moved to the nearby Viktualienmarkt, but the square still functions as the central place in Munich.
Marienplatz is a hub for the Munich S and U-Bahn railway systems and is well within walking distance from the Hauptbahnhof. There are also many nearby drinking establishments (eg. Hofbrauhaus). Keep an eye out for cafes on the second floors of buildings between Karlstor and the Altes Rathaus to escape the hustle and bustle of the area at lunchtime while still being able to people-watch.
Marienplatz and other parts of the pedestrian zone are a great place to see entertainers and street theatre. This area is lively both day and night and crowds gather to watch artists, entertainers and other activities. Locals and visitors appear to mix easily and there is something for everyone. While we were there we enjoyed a popular local entertainer playing tunes on a piano.
Just around the corner is Frauenkirche, known as the Dom. That is a real piece of medieval architecture and a very dominant one and is probably the best known symbol of Munich. You might want to step inside - right at the entrance is a bizarre example of a tomb monument for a Habsburgian ruler. Frauenkirche is gigantic but has a "romantic" touch that sets it apart from the high spires of many late Gothic churches.
From journal Exploring and Enjoying Munich
Editor Pick
Marienplatz
- February 23, 2006
- Rated 4 of 5 by
Ed Hahn from Hong Kong, China
I believe that the main squares of major European cities should be designated as tourist destinations. The Marienplatz, in the heart of Munich, is no exception. It’s a fascinating place to hang out. In the Middle Ages, the square was a market place, as well as a tournament site, and headquarters for festivals. The market is no longer there, but the square still functions as the central jumping-off point for going anywhere in Munich.
The square was named after the Mariensäule, built in 1638 to celebrate both the victory over the invading Swedish army during the 30 Years' War, and the end of the plague. The golden Virgin Mary is standing on a crescent moon atop the 11-meter high column. It was the first such column north of the Alps, and inspired similar monuments in Prague, Vienna, and elsewhere.
Though the square is named after Mary, it is dominated by the New Town Hall (Neues Rathaus) on its northern side. This monumental, 79-meter high, Flemish Gothic-style building took 42 years to build and was finished in 1909. Its mechanical clock, or Glockenspiel, plays every day at 11am, and noon, year-round, and 5pm in the summertime. As the chimes ring out, doors open, and figures emerge and begin to dance. The Glockenspiel celebrates two events from Munich's past. The colorful dancers are doing the Schafflertanz, or dance of the coopers—this to memorialize the end of the Black Death plague in 1517. There is also a reenactment of a famous tournament held for the royal wedding between Wilhelm V and Renata von Lothringen, that took place in Marienplatz in 1568. The Bavarian knight (blue-white) wins the joust against the Austrian (red-white) every time. A rooster at the top crows three times after all the bells stop ringing. The Glockenspiel was installed in 1903, and rebuilt after WW II.
The Gothic style Old Town Hall (Altes Rathaus) still stands near its successor. It was completely destroyed during WW II, but rebuilt afterwards. It now houses a toy museum, which Tom and I skipped in favor of having a beer at the open-air restaurant in a courtyard in the New Town Hall. There are also a number of restaurants and cafes around the square. I understand that the Glockenspiel Cafe, on the fifth floor of a building just opposite the Town Hall, is the best place to watch the Glockenspiel “show.”
There is also an interesting fountain, the Fischbrunnen (Fish Fountain) on the western side of the square. Just beyond the fountain you will find the Gothic Frauenkirche, with its dual onion-domed towers. We found out too late that one of the towers has an elevator, which leads to an excellent view over the city.
Since Marienplatz is the center of the Alstadt (Old Town), and the hub of the U-Bahn and S-Bahn train system, you can easily get anywhere you want to go from there, walking or riding. It is also a great place for people-watching.
From journal Melancholy Munich
Marienplatz
- August 23, 2003
- Rated 5 of 5 by
akakd from , Arizona
Our first stop was the Marienplatz w/ the beautifully ornate Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) & the Alter Rathausturm (Old Town Hall). The "New" Town Hall was built between 1867-1909. Beyond it, rising steeply to the sky, the distinctive copper onion domes of the Frauenkirche. Time your visit to the Marienplatz for 11 a.m. or 5 p.m. for the Glockenspiel Performance. Then head over to the Hofbrauhaus (Beer Hall), a short walk away.
From journal Munich Sparkles
Marienplatz
- June 30, 2002
- Rated 4 of 5 by
Tolik from Tampa, Florida
Stroll along the Marienplatz - the Munich`s hub. And the heart of the Altstadt. Platz is dedicated to the patron of the city, whose golden statue atop a huge column stands in the center of the square. On its north side is the Neues Rathaus (New City Hall) built in 19-th century Gothic style.
From journal Munich, Bavaria