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Assam Journals

Sibsagar - Monuments of Unageing Intellect

A June 2001 trip to Assam by kharkhuwa

Rang Ghar Photo - Rang Ghar, Assam, India More Photos
Quote: Most visitors to Assam prefer to draw the line at Kaziranga National Park. But if you continue farther northeast, following the National Highway 37 and past the tea gardens of Jorhat, you will come across the small nondescript town of Sibsagar. Not much different from any other wayside town of India, Sibsagar is far from your idea of a frenetic, tourist-jammed place. However, don’t be deceived by the relaxed low-key atmosphere of the place, for this is where a mighty dynasty of rulers, known as the Ahoms, reigned supreme as an invincible power for 600 years. Here, rising on the periphery of the 129-acre Sivasagar Pond (which gives the town its name), are the archaeological remains, palaces, and temples of the Ahoms, now being preserved as national monuments.
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Sibsagar - Monuments of Unageing Intellect Best of IgoUgo

Overview

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Sibsagar is primarily a historical place. It offers enormous opportunities to both the students of history and the layman alike. As you approach this erstwhile Ahom citadel, you are likely to be awestruck by the lush green carpet of tea plantations, which line both sides of the road, and look as if these have been unfurled and laid out to air under the sun. In the midst of this picture-postcard scenery, the tall, elongated 104-ft-high dome of the Shivadol rises into view. Come near, and you see the 250-year-old Sivasagar pond situated right in the middle of the town. Siberian migratory ducks come all the way here to spend the winter months, and even as you make your way to the cluster of three temples...Read More
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There are budget hotels near the central bus stand. Tourists can opt for the better ones like Hotel Siddhartha and Hotel Brahmaputra, where a deluxe air-conditioned room with double bed will cost Rs 700 and upwards.

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on May 12, 2003

Tourist Lodge
Near Sibsagar Tank
Rab, Croatia
00-91-3772-21814

Hotel Brahmaputra Best of IgoUgo

Restaurant

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This is a hotel-cum-restaurant where one can savour local Assamese cuisine consisting of boiled rice, fish curry, and dal. North Indian food is also available.

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on May 12, 2003

Hotel Brahmaputra
BG Road
Assam, India
3772-22000

Sivasagar Pond Best of IgoUgo

Attraction

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What at once strikes the tourist in Sibsagar is the abundance of sagars or ponds, with Shiva temples on their banks. The most remarkable landmark of the town is the 129-acre Sivasagar pond built by Queen Madambika (also Deopadi; 1731–1741), the wife of Siva Singha (also Sutanpha; 1714–1744). An amazing aspect of the pond is that its water level is always above the level of the town. On its banks are the three important temples of Shivadol, Vishnudol, and Devidol -— all built by Queen Madambika in 1734.

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on May 12, 2003

Sivasagar Pond
Sibsagar
Assam, India

Shivadol Best of IgoUgo

Attraction

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The magnificent Shivadol, with a height of 104 ft, is among the highest Shiva temples in the country. The temple belongs to the dvaikuta class in Indian temple architecture and consists of two cells -- a garbhagriha (sanctum sanctorum) and a mandapa (pillared hall). The majestic shikhara (dome) with fluted vertical lines rises over the garbhagriha. Around the main shikhara lie several replicas, which are known as uramanjaris. The Shivadol becomes a hub of activity during the annual Shivaratri festival (February/March) when devout pilgrims from far and near visit the temple. The Devidol and Vishnudol are adjacent to Shivadol. Among the ...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on May 12, 2003

Shivadol
Sibsagar
Assam, India

Kareng Ghar Best of IgoUgo

Attraction

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Located 6 km from Sibsagar, the Kareng Ghar is a seven-storeyed structure, of which three stories are underground. It was built by King Rudra Singha (also Sukhrungpha; 1696–1714) to serve as the military station of the Ahom kings. The entire structure is of great historical as well as architectural importance.

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on May 12, 2003

Kareng Ghar
Sibsagar
Assam, India

Tolatol Ghar Best of IgoUgo

Attraction

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Tolatol Ghar refers to the underground section of the Kareng Ghar. Two underground tunnels are said to have existed here once upon a time, one leading to the Dikhow River and the other to the Gargaon Palace (13 km). However, these were later blocked by the East India Company.

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on May 12, 2003

Tolatol Ghar
Sibsagar
Assam, India

Gargaon Palace Best of IgoUgo

Attraction

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About 13 km east of Sibsagar lies the Gargaon Palace, the principal town of the Ahom kings, built by the 15th king of the dynasty, Suklenmung (also Garhgaya Raja; 1539–1552) in the year 1540. This building was destroyed long ago but was later on rebuilt by King Rajeshwara Singha (also Surampha; 1751–1769) in the year 1762. Rising tier upon tier like an immense, square birthday cake, this brick palace is set on a grassy mound surrounded by vast open spaces.

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on May 12, 2003

Gargaon Palace
Sibsagar
Assam, India

Rang Ghar Best of IgoUgo

Attraction

Rang Ghar Photo - Rang Ghar, Assam, India
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Close to the Gargaon Palace is Rang Ghar (entertainment house), an oval-shaped, two-storeyed pavilion from where the Ahom kings are said to have watched elephant fights and other sports. Built by Pramatta Singha (also Sunenpha; 1744–1751), the Rang Ghar is one of the earliest pavilions of outdoor stadia in India. There is a wide meadow around the structure, which was probably meant for the public. The pavilion is 10 m high, 11 m across and 27 m long; a steep flight of steps leads to the higher elevation from where, presumably, the royal patrons used to watch the contest on the grounds below. The base of the monument has a series of arched entrances and atop the roof is a decorative pair of carv...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on May 12, 2003

Rang Ghar
Sibsagar
Assam, India

Bihu Best of IgoUgo

Attraction

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Several festivals are celebrated in Sibsagar and the adjoining region. The Assamese people, irrespective of caste, creed, and religion, celebrate the Bihu festival. There are three Bihus in a year -- Rongali (or Bohag), Bhugali (or Magh), and Kangali (or Kati) —- of which the Rongali Bihu is the most important. Celebrated in April, this Bihu initiates the agricultural season. The merriments include dances accompanied to the beats of dhol and pepa (buffalo hornpipe).

The Bhugali Bihu is celebrated in January, while the Kangali Bihu is celebrated in October/November.

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on May 12, 2003

Bihu
Sibsagar
Assam, India

Namdang Xaku Best of IgoUgo

Attraction

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Rudra Singha (also Sukhrungpha; 1696–1714), who erected the temple around Joysagar, was also responsible for the construction, in 1703, of the Namdang Xaku (xaku: bridge), a stone bridge cut from a monolithic rock over the Namdang River, 12 km from Sibsagar. Today, the national highway 37 passes over this historic bridge.

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on May 12, 2003

Namdang Xaku
Sibsagar
Assam, India

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At Rangpur (which was the name of the old Ahom capital), 5 km from Sibsagar, there is another large man-made pond known as the Joysagar, built by King Rudra Singha (also Sukhrungpha; 1696–1714) in 1697, a year after he came to power. The pond and the temple Joydol (erected a year later, in 1698) commemorate the memory of his mother, Queen Joymoti, who was tortured to death at the nearby Jerenga Pothar. Just as the Sivasagar pond has three temples constructed on its shores, Joysagar too has a set of three temples of which the Joydol is one; the other two are, as at Sibsagar, the Shivadol and Devidol, dedicated to Shiva and Devi, respectively. From what remains of the sculpture decorating these t...Read More

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on May 12, 2003

Joysagar Pond and Joydol
Sibsagar
Assam, India

Gaurisagar Pond Best of IgoUgo

Attraction

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Gaurisagar is another pond worth visiting. It was constructed in the year 1723 by Queen Phuleshwari (also Pramateshwari; 1722–1731) and measures 150 acres in area.

There are three temples -— dedicated to Gauri (or Durga), Shiva, and Vishnu —- on its bank. The National Highway 37 runs across the eastern side of the pond over the historic Namdang stone bridge.

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on May 12, 2003

Gaurisagar Pond
Sibsagar
Assam, India

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The Ahoms were great builders, and several roads and bridges built by them are still in use in many parts of Sibsagar. Perhaps the most famous is the Dhodar Ali (also Dhondar Ali), built some four hundred years ago, which connects Sibsagar to Golaghat.

There is a stone bridge on the Dhodar Ali over river Dorika, 3 km from Simaluguri, which was built by Swargadeo Pratap Singha (also Susengpha; 1603–1641). The bridge, which is 904 ft long, 14 ft wide and 16 ft high, connects Sibsagar to the nearby town of Sonari.

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on May 12, 2003

Dhodar Ali and Dorika Bridge
Sibsagar
Assam, India

Shopping Best of IgoUgo

Attraction

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The markets of Sibsagar, though crowded and noisy, are well stocked with local handicrafts and handlooms. You will get everything from the famous silk muga, pat, mekhela chador (traditional dress of Assamese women), eri shawls, and intricately woven gamochas (towels), to handicraft items of bamboo, cane, and bell metal. Besides, you can buy the local tea, which is available in the open market.

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on May 12, 2003

Shopping
Sibsagar
Assam, India

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Sukapha (also Sui-Ka-Pha; 1228–1268), the founder of the Ahom dynasty, set up the original capital of the dynasty at Charaideo, 28 km east of the present Sibsagar town in 1253. Here in Charaideo, one can see the maidams or burial vaults and mounds of the royal families, which are similar to the pyramids of Egypt. Built of stones and bricks, most of the maidams are now in pathetic ruins.

Charaideo is also the abode of the ancestral gods of the Ahoms. On the summit of a hillock can still be seen the stone pillars or deosal. The Sui-Ka-Pha Park is an added attraction of Charaideo.

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on May 12, 2003

Charaideo: The Burial of the Dead
Charaideo
Assam, India

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Another important landmark near Sibsagar (22 km) is the dargah of Ajan Fakir at the confluence of the rivers Dikhow and Brahmaputra. Known as Xoraguri Chapori, the dargah is highly revered by the Hindus and Muslims alike. Ajan, whose name was derived from azan (prayer), was originally from Baghdad and came to settle in Sibsagar. The then ruler of Sibsagar, on suspicion of being a Mughal spy, blinded him. Even then, he stayed on in Sibsagar, learnt the native language and immersed himself in the worship of the Almighty God. He composed devotional lyrics called zikirs, which are sung to this day.

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on May 12, 2003

Dargah of Ajan Fakir
Xoraguri Chapori
Assam, India

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Sibsagar was the capital of the Ahom kings, who ruled over Assam for nearly 600 years. Originally a Burmese Shan tribe, the Ahoms bravely withstood 17 Mughal invasions before succumbing to the British in 1826. The first Ahom king, Sukapha (also Sui-Ka-Pha; 1228–1268), came from Mong Mitin in Burma. He crossed the Patkai hills in 1228 and established the first capital of the Ahom kingdom at Charaideo (28 km east of Sibsagar) in 1253. Although historians are not unanimous as regards the exact place from where he came (another record states that he migrated from Mong Miao or Mung Mao Ling, the south-west Yunan province of China), one thing is clear: Sukapha arrived in the Brahmaputra valley ...Read More
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Dotting the vicinity of Sibsagar are a number of large water tanks usually with three temples on their banks, a feature reminiscent of Mahoba, the capital of the Chandela rulers of central India. The temples are a study of historical morality -- simple but strong. Usually referred to as dol, the name probably is an etymological derivation from the Sanskrit word deul, which means temple. In most of the places, the temples are in groups of three—dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu, and Durga, respectively. The tectonic style usually follows the spired Shikhara style of northern India, but with local variations. The temple wall with fluted vertical lines on the exterior tapers towards the top...Read More

Ahom Coins Best of IgoUgo

Story/Tip

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"If the sun is once eclipsed, does it not make its appearance again?" was the motto of the legendary Ahoms who ruled Assam for almost six centuries. Though the Ahoms were worshippers of tribal gods and goddesses, in course of time, they assimilated Hindu beliefs as well as the local language and script. Their early coins conveyed their devotion to tribal gods who were later identified with Hindu gods. Further, their initial coins bore Ahom legends in their own script (known as Tai), which gradually made way for Sanskrit legends in the Assamese script with the year of issue quoted in the Saka era. Their coinage traces the steady growth and development of their economy from barter to a money economy....Read More