The Official Edinburgh Pub Crawl....

After a long day of sight seeing, of more walking than you ever thought you would do to see a place in one afternoon, and going up and down the Royal Mile and stopping in many, many shops and practically swimming in the sounds of bagpipes parading up and down the streets, you may just be ready for a quiet night in with dubious British television and a meat pie or two.

But, if on the other hand your wide awake (and lets face it, in Scotland in the summer you are likely to doze off at ten and wake up at 12:30 to find the dying embers of sunlight still streaming through your window) and ready for a bit more exploring, then here is a guide to Edinburgh's other big tourist attraction.

When any of my friends or acquaintances asks what is the best thing to do or see in Edinburgh...the slightly cryptic answer to that is simply, 'Edinburgh.' It's a city that is a tourist attraction in itself. Many of the best sites free (a god sent for many travellers) in the beautiful architecture and streets, the medieval closes and churches and spires and stained glass, and views of the castle and the towering monuments. It's a place unlike any other I've ever been to on earth, and though it does have interesting sites to offer (the castle, Arthur's seat, Holyrood Park, Scott Monument, and many museums--all reviewed in my first journal about Edinburgh) still after 5 years of living in this city, by far the most impressive thing to see is the city itself. And to anyone visiting I would just simply recommend putting on your comfortable shoes, grabbing a bag with some water and something warm and waterproof and see where your feet take you.

But, as I said when I started this, there is another thing worth its own special mention (and hence, this more specific journal) and that is the Edinburgh pubs.

They are so incredibly numerous, and so varied and cover so many corners of the city that I couldn't begin to do them justice in the journal that covered the entire city. And a proper Edinburgh pub crawl is something that any visitor should partake of on their trip.

Quick Tips:

So, whether you've just dropped off your bags of souvenirs, had a shower and a change of clothes and are ready for another shot at the city...to see what Edinburgh has to offer after dark, or you simply want a good wholesome taste of the Edinburgh pub scene while doing your wandering, I welcome you to Red's Official Edinburgh Pub Crawl.

Some of these pubs I have sampled in what is technically a pub crawl, that is jumping from one to another for a drink and a quick sampling of the atmosphere then on to the next. And others I have perused over the years of living here...as in a city this full of unique little places to drink, you do want to give them a healthy try--even if I'm not as enamoured with the hobby as the locals.

There are obvious drinking tips and suggestions, but I'll just mention but a few here. First of all, that Edinburgh is a very safe city comparatively, and that in all my time here--drinking or other wise--even walking back late at night, I've never felt especially uncomfortable, or unsafe. But it is always good to keep in mind the levels you are drinking while in a new city, and to at least have some one person with you who is keeping a reasonable head on their shoulders. For any Americans not already aware of this, British beer is much stronger than most American beers, and can really catch up on you.

Remember to eat before you head out, or get a big bag of chips and fish from the endless array of choices of chip shops in the city. Many of these pubs sell food as well...if you are doing a pub crawl it's a good idea to at least have some nuts or 'crisps' (potato chips) in most of the bars you stop in.
Most of the staff in these places are friendly and helpful...but it's never a good idea to get too drunk anywhere...particularly a foreign city.

So have a bite to eat, remember that pints in Scotland are strong things, and head out for a wonderful sampling of what British pubs are famous for.

Most bars and pubs don't expect tips, but it's always looked upon well if you 'buy the bartender a drink’ which generally means pitching in an extra £2 when you order a round.

Best Way To Get Around:

If you've not made a too expansive investigation of my list, then walking is a good way to get some fresh air, walk off a bit of the booze, and get reacquainted with the stunning view of the city that glows orange at night.

The streets seem to always shimmer with water at night from the latest rainfall, and the glow hovers over everything. But if you’re no longer in the mood for walking, there are cabs everywhere in Edinburgh--even late at night, and they are generally pretty good.

There is a brilliant little chip shop/cafe on Broughton Street that I will review separately that is a spectacular place to end a pub crawl. After a night of heavy dark Scottish beer there is very little better in the world than one of their pizzas or bags of chips, and their secret specialty which I will mention later.

And that about wraps it up. Have a good sleep and here's hoping you remember your experience well enough to brag to the folks back home!

I'll review the pubs I think the most likely to be visited for the general traveller, with a few outskirt gems thrown in for those a little bit more adventurous.

Enjoy, and Cheers!

I can't possibly write up a pub crawl with out mentioning the place to go at the end when you want nothing more in the world than loads of cheap salty, greasy food.

And there is one place in Edinburgh that stands out more for me than any other for this particular service. I have yearned for its glowing purple sign often on my own on very late and damp nights staggering home full of a variety of establishments' booze. But the fullness of this smallish chip shop every weekend night tells its own tale of the popularity of the place for the like-minded pub-crawler.

The owners of this establishment had a brilliant idea a couple years ago when they repainted the place a glowing purple, including neon lights that go on as soon as the sun goes down.

To anyone at the end of a pub-crawl, the quality is nowhere near as important as the quantity (And the cheapness is almost always a bonus given the absurd amount of money almost always spent on such endeavours) Which is probably why fish and chip shops do so well in Britain.

If it's your first trip to the British Isles you have almost certainly been told that you must go to a fish and chip place for the local cuisine, and quite possibly you left the one you found a little bit bemused by the recommendation. Because even though some of the food is really delightful at these places, it's almost always delightful in a crap sort of a way. (Although the big slabs of fish are often very nice indeed) Its Britain's version of fast food and its charm only really becomes apparent at moments like the one you now find yourself in, wet and weary, bleary eyed from the pints you lost count of an hour ago and with a strange and pitifully small amount of change you find left in your pocket.

Here is where the chip shop--more specifically the tantalizingly bright and welcoming Cafe Piccante--become the best restaurant idea that man ever invented.

For approximately a pound you can get a heaping bag of greasy, salty chips (or steak fries, to Americans) or for an extra pound or two you can get a wonderfully crispy bit of white fish batter fried and delicious beyond words. Need more, or not quite up to handling greasy bags and slabs of fish? Well take your choice of cheap, hot pizzas. This is a wonderfully bright and cheerful place at the wee hours of the morning, and will probably be the most welcoming sight on earth.

It sits happily at the top of Broughton Street and is impossible to miss.

Maybe more than anything else, it’s worth a stop for one of the national specialities, the deep friend Mars Bar. Yes...you heard right. (Also comes in snickers) I know how horrific is sounds, but it's delightful. Be bold and give one a try, it's certainly memorable.

I did think about doing the Pub Crawl reviews in geographical order, which would probably make more sense. But that would, of course depend entirely on which end of the city that you're starting at. For the record, at the centre of the Royal Mile is probably the most reasonable place to start an official Edinburgh Pub Crawl.

And once you are there, the options are limitless. Up the Royal Mile, down the mile, down Cockburn Street, around to Victoria street leading to Grassmarket and another little section of great pubs....or down around to Princes Street. As I say, once you start the options are limitless.

So, having said all of that I have decided to start my reviews with what is undoubtedly my favourite of the Edinburgh pubs.

You may have noticed that I have already reviewed this pub in my original Edinburgh review, but I only briefly touched on it as it is something I feel should be included in a general Edinburgh over view.
Some of the pubs/bars I am going to review are going to lean towards one taste or another. Some a bit trendier, other classic Scottish 'old man' pubs. But Finnegan's Wake, pretty much above all others I think can really be enjoyable for just about anyone.

This is the spot I always bring visitors to the city when they come to see me as a place where you can enjoy each other's company as well as the fantastic atmosphere.

Finnegan's is an Irish pub just off the Royal Mile on Victoria Street (if heading up the Royal Mile towards the castle you reach George Fourth Bridge Street (don't expect a Bridge) and turn left. The first down sloping street on your right will be Victoria Street, a fantastic little way riddled with shops and pubs that takes you on to the next great step of the pub crawl, the Grassmarket.

Here, about three or four doors down you will come to the large and green welcoming Irish doors.

This is just a fantastic pub, and to my mind everything a pub should be. For starters there is live music every night of the week. These are general local cover bands, but I've been many, many times and never heard one that I thought was bad. They cover an array of folksy and classic rock music, but all of its good fun and the place has a truly Irish zest for life and music. It's hard to resist the urge to dance.

The beer on tap here (though not the cheapest you will find in the city) is just about the nicest. Also with an interesting little array of cocktails and shooters.

The place does often fill up as the night goes on, and it gets closer to time for the bands to play, but that only adds to the enjoyment and the vibe. The tables are neatly set in little coves along the walls and the rest is open for enjoyment!

And on to the first Royal Mile Pub. When coming from Princes Street towards the Royal Mile you cross what is referred to as 'the bridges.' When you reach the cross roads at the Royal Mile, you are effectively at the pub/bar called Whistle Binkies. (Or, if you are literally doing these pubs in order and coming from Finnegan's Wake, you make your way back to the Royal Mile and then walk down until you get to the cross roads and turn right where you will immediately see the sign for this pub) This place has a slightly different atmosphere to Finnegan's Wake, but does have a kind of similar venue.

I personally prefer Finnegan's for the livelier and more generally fun atmosphere, but I'm reviewing this particular pub for a few reasons.

Firstly it is another that I often bring people do, because like Finnegan's Wake it has live music, and in this a slightly more eclectic selection than you get on Victoria Street.

The music is more a fundamental part of this pub, and they take it rather seriously. If you’re really into your music than you will really enjoy this place. They too have music every night of the week and have an array of things from new talent, resident bands, and even some special events. All pretty good. But I find the music a bit over bearing in this downstairs dive---great if your there for the music, but a little bit much if you just want some drinks with your friends. It's Incredibly loud and a bit intrusive to anything other than listening.

But, having said that brings me to Whistle Binkie's other selling point...its seating. There is seating in the main low lit, low ceilinged room near both the bar and the stage. Again, great if your there for the music. But if your not then saunter back into the back room seating where the entire place is dressed up to look like a funkily lit cave. There are several tables back in this little secluded spot and even though you still have no trouble hearing the music, your not getting it right in your face and your free to do a bit more talking.

All of these are cool pluses, and rank this pretty high on my list of pubs to visit, but overall I still think it lacks a little bit in atmosphere, that the scenery should provide. It feels a little bit stuffy for my liking, but in a pub crawl is definitely worth trying. The booze isn't overly cheap, but it's pretty good. A solid selection of beers and shots.

Veering slightly off the central path, over the bridges and Princes Street and on to Hanover Street we come to our third pub. (As you have probably noticed by now I've decided to forgo the first impulse to write these in geographical order, making an easy walking route to check out the pubs of Edinburgh, and am instead making a route more in keeping with the level of pubs from good to bad. Or more accurately...from not to be missed to quite good and stay well clear of.)

I mention Finnegan's Wake first as it is my personal favourite and I think ranks highly for the best all around drinking and pub experience. But there is also another contender for the number one 'not to be missed pub in Edinburgh', and that is the Jekyll and Hyde.

Less of the 'pub' atmosphere, and more of its own simple (and fantastic, I might add) atmosphere is to be had here...and even if you have no intention of pub crawling, this is somewhere to be visited in the city of Edinburgh for any visitor.

It's very hard to miss heading down Hanover street looking across to the amazing (on a clear day) view of the surrounding hills and Forth Estuary because of the very fittingly Gothic flame lamps out front, generally the first thing you see on a foggy Edinburgh afternoon.

The pub is excellent. Visit it any time of day for an array of decent pub food that is a little bit pricier than some pub foods, but they do have a more interesting selection, and it is decent. (Though I would recommend that if it's a nice lunch rather than an accompanying snack to your beer and atmosphere that you're after then there are better places to eat in Edinburgh.)

But, the real treat about the Jekyll and Hyde is the scenery. This is an amazing themed bar and well, well worth a look even if you don't plan to eat here. Its Gothic, Robert Louis Stevenson based theme is really stunning. It's a dark and moodily lit pub, and you should wander around it a bit looking at all the interesting things on the walls and in nooks and crannies before choosing your seats. And make sure you include a trip to the bathroom in your visit...it's hidden in the book cases!

This pub has a very chilled atmosphere (they even do Tarot readings here!) and a great place to stop in for a pint and chat with friends. It's got a cool vibe, but it’s not so noisy or overwhelming that it's not a good place for talking and enjoying each other’s company. Absolutely a must see on the Edinburgh pub trail.

Off the central path and onto another bit of town brings us to The Cougar Lounge.

Both The Shore area and Leith have been rapidly changing in Edinburgh in the past few years with additions such as the flash new Ocean Terminal and the shore water front being cleaned up and turned into a very pleasant place to spend a warm Edinburgh afternoon along with other city dwellers sitting barefoot on the ledge near the water talking and relaxing--beer in hand with the smell of portable BBQs cooking on bare patches of grass across the street.

When I first moved to Edinburgh 4 years ago The Shore was somewhere you avidly avoided, but to my great delight it has become a wonderful spot in the past few years with a fantastic array of restaurants and shops and, of course, pubs.

But for many the area of Leith still has a tradition to uphold of being rather gritty and down to earth, and in general there for the locals. Which is probably why loungey places like the Cougar Lounge often get bad reviews from locals. And as is always the case, how good a place is depends on what you go in expecting. It's not a 'pub' in the Leith sense (therefore dirty, very old and traditional and largely full of very inebriated Scots of all ages) and not even especially true to the nature of many Edinburgh pubs.

Which is why I've decided to add it to my pub crawl. The name pretty much tells you what you want to know...this is more of a lounge than a pub, but nowhere near as pretentious as a lot of the locals seem to think it is. I do admit there are a fair amount of pseudo-trendy people that do enjoy hanging out here, but unless the place is packed with them, they really don't take away from the enjoyment of the place in my opinion.

First and foremost it’s very comfy inside. Almost more like a coffee shop than a bar with big leather couches and chair and expansive wooden tables and good lighting. Very chilled indeed. There are also a good number of picnic tables outside which are heavily but pleasantly populated by visitors and locals alike on warm and sunny days.

This may not be a great 'local' as far as pubs are concerned...but it does make an excellent place to pop in for a relaxed and enjoyable beer when you’re wandering around the Shore area, or escaping Leith walk.

They also have several types of live music that often play in the evenings. Whenever I've been in the evenings this has been a calm and relaxed place to have a drink. A great place to chat with friends or simply bask in the surroundings. Not as lively (or the music not as good) as in Finnegan's Wake or Whistle Binkies, but still a very classy bar indeed and wonderful for a beer or glass of wine.

At the top of Broughton Street and just a few doors down from the Piccante Cafe is the great little traditional British style pub, Mathers. Though it is true that pubs of this style are a often a dime a dozen in Britain and it's hard to find a street in Edinburgh that doesn't claim at least one, there are still certain important elements to such a place that can make all the difference in a great pub to visit, and one like all the rest.

Pubs of this kind are in danger of becoming one of two things, either a local’s pub which have a tendency to give off a bit of a hostile vibe to visitors or those who aren't regulars, or to be too touristy and always be full of tourists which can ruin such an environment just as easily.

And I think that Mathers manages to straddle these two opposites rather nicely. I doubt very seriously you will find it in any tourist guides; and it's probably not on many 'things to do in Edinburgh' lists. But that doesn't mean it doesn't have a lot to offer.

A lot of the locals do go here, but it still maintains a very pleasant and inviting atmosphere. The decor is very traditional and extremely pleasant. One of the best aspects of Mathers is its fire place which, though not large or ornate, makes a great warm environment to sit and enjoy a pint on a cold winter evening. The other thing that Mathers has going for it (along with the fact that it is rarely over crowded and also rarely empty) is the food. It is pub food, no mistake. It is not gourmet by any means, but it's nice, and very eatable along side a pint and a blazing fire. But more than the food itself or the selection (generally fish or burgers--general pub food) it's the price. It is extremely cheap for what you get... often running specials for two meals for £6.

This is an especially good place for backpackers or people travelling on a shoe string. It's only about 5 minutes walk down Queen Street from the bus stop, and is very cheap and filling. It couldn't be easier to find, turning onto Broughton Street off of Queen Street at the Conan Doyle and several doors down on the right.

The staff have always been pleasant and pretty good in this pub, much better than the infinitely pricier pub, the Conan Doyle just up the street.

This pub is very different from the others in this review, but it's good for a lot of different reasons, all depending on what you hope to get out of your pub experience. Warmth, hospitality and a filling and cheap meal are what it does best.

What would a pub crawl review be without a cocktail bar on the list? And though it's true that Bar Kohl is really not a pub in the strictest sense of the word, it's a great place to add to this list of what may more appropriately be called Bar Hopping.

Quite different from most of the other place I've reviewed in this pub crawl, Bar Kohl has quite a lot to offer, whether your staggering in at the middle of making your way though this list, or coming in for a pleasant evening to taste test what is a staggeringly impressive menu of cocktails and vodka shots.

This is a nice place, simply put. It's a bit on the trendy side, yes (OK, a fair bit on the trendy side) and does fill up with students; but then what Edinburgh bar doesn't? Despite its tendency to be trendy it's still got a really good atmosphere, and particularly on the weeknights (if you are more about a nice vibe and sampling their selection) are very chilled and you get the place largely to yourself.

It's a nice looking bar, mostly done up in brick but lit all over with candles with tables both tucked away in private little coves and pick nick style tables across from the bar, which spans both sides of a not too cramped area. There is even a gigantic screen in the back room that while I was there played the British cult classic 'Monkey' the whole time, which made for a rather unique step away from being too trendy and pretentious. A lot of people I've heard have complained about the music played in Bar Kohl but to be perfectly honest I remember nothing about it. It can't have been to grating.

Another thing that separates this bar from the bars that I normally review is that this one is not cheap. It varies from moderate to very expensive depending on how deeply you want to delve into your pockets. But then it’s a cocktail bar, and from what I can tell it's one of the best in Edinburgh. I have heard locals who make the cocktail bar rounds more than I have say that there are one or two others that are as good or better, but this is far and away the most impressive I have been to, and would recommend it to any one who likes a good cocktail. The staff really know what they are doing and of the 10 of us who went we all came out very very pleased and impressed with what we got.
Plus, as you will see in the big chalk board when you walk in they have no shortage of vodka shooters and interesting drinks and pitchers, including one called the 'Big Pimping' which includes champagne and comes with cherries covered in edible gold. Yes gold. Its £62, but it is very nice. Also at a good location, a nice bar to visit.

While I was travelling around Australia, I somehow picked up the handle 'Mezz' - Australians with their love of shortening words, came up with the name, and it really stuck. (Hence the username for this site.)

So on returning to Edinburgh, I was once again reminded that the delightful looking little bar around the corner was one I had not visited yet, and that I must seeing that we shared the same name.

It's been two years since that time, and the simple reason I have put off reviewing the place is that I've really hoped I would have an experience that would allow me to give it a better review than I was at first inclined to. We do share a name, after all, and more than that - it always looks such a nice little place to stop in when I pass by it almost every day.

So last week I met up with a friend to chat about travel and the world and as they recommended Mezz, I decided it was the perfect time to give it another go. Maybe my first experience was one of those unavoidable flukes that happen with all establishments at some point: the staff are having an off day, the customers are annoying, the atmosphere is off...what ever. I went in pleasantly expecting it to redeem itself.

Unfortunately, this was far from the case, and I walked out of there vowing I would never go back in. This is a shame for more reasons than the name - I have since looked at other people's reviews of it and it seems to get often glowing reports...especially about the food. (Which I did not try as I thought it was really pricey for bar food, but the portions did look very ample, and it looked rather nice.)
But I have also noticed there does seem to be a very specific crowd that populates Mezz and whatever I may not find pleasing about the place, they seem to enjoy.

Had it not been for one thing, I would have walked out of the place disappointed yet again, but not likely to review it one way or another. But this one thing changed my mind entirely - making me certain I would never go back, and anxious to write why.

Myself and my friends (one of whom does visit regularly) got the single worst service I have received from anyone, anywhere in Britain. And to any American who has travelled around the UK, you will understand the magnitude of that statement.

The atmosphere (certainly not the look of the place which is really nicely put together with a great little shiny bar, and a small staircase up to a raised area to sit and drink or eat with a window over looking the street with big comfy cushions.) of Mezz was what put me off so much the first time. A quick drink was all I allowed myself then, as the almost hostile disregarded I got from the waitress and the cold and quiet nature of the place left me feeling less than welcome. (As if I had walked into a private club with out an invitation.)
But as I said - waitresses and barmen come and go, and I had hoped it was simply a bad day. This weekend day, though, found the same again only worse. The food and drinks were pricey. The big comfy chairs were torn to shreds - and not as comfortable as they looked. The other atmosphere was cold at best - perhaps even a little haughty. But worst of all by far was our waitress - the most miserable woman that has ever waited on me, possibly anywhere.
She openly scowled at us when we walked in the door, she took an age to check on us and when she did she seemed really put out that we weren't having any food (it IS a bar) and said not one single pleasant or courteous word to us. She interrupted our conversation twice, and all but tossed our drinks down on the table and stomped off. It was almost impressive - I feel as if I should have taken her name, she deserves some type of award.

I hate giving a place that looks so nice (and with such a nice name) such a bad review...and maybe, Maybe, the waiting staff are better on other days of the week. But this sunny Saturday afternoon was somewhat ruined by a bad bar experience in a city of wonderful pubs. If you are experimenting, don't waste your time.