Kom Ombo was a stunning sight seen from the Nile. Cruising along, admiring the fertile valleys, we suddenly rounded a bend and saw this grand limestone temple on the edge of the shore. Located just 45 km north of Aswan, it can be reached in an hour by bus for two pounds, or by boat in 2-3 hours for twenty-five pounds in a felucca (the ‘official rate'... good luck).
Built in 150 BC, representing the Middle Kingdom, Kom Ombo is a dual temple dedicated to Sobek, the crocodile god, and Horus, the falcon god. Their temples side by side have identical, symmetrical features, massive twin doors, pillars, courts, halls, and sanctuaries. Built originally in the 2nd century by Ptolemy VI Philometor, subsequent Greeks and Romans added halls and decorative designs.
At one time, an entrance pylon and outer enclosure wall existed, but was eroded over time by the river, as rising waters deposited silt on the sight and nearly buried it. Later, after the decline of the Roman Empire, a portion of the sight was used as a quarry, and many of the walls were taken down to create new buildings elsewhere.
Prior to entering the main structures, we entered the Roman Chapel of Hathor to view three mummified crocodiles in a small room. I saw the Eye of Horus only twice in Horus' temple, compared to the multitude of croc images in the adjoining temple of Sobek. There was a makeshift hospital between mud brick wall at the rear of the temple. Previous medical instruments that were excavated are now on display in the British Museum. Images of a woman squatting in childbirth, and medical procedures decorated the walls. The Egyptian calendar was also illustrated in confusing detail on one wall.
Of great interest to me, was seeing color on the underside of giant doorways and pillars, still visible after thousands of years on this weathered limestone. Faint red, and more brilliant blues and blacks were preserved best on the ceilings, hidden from the glaring sun. It was the first structure I'd seen with color on the exterior. It must've been an amazing sight to see when all the hieroglyphic images were adorned in color in ancient times!
Hours are 7am-9pm daily. Admission is 10 pounds for adults and only 5 pounds for students, substantially less than other temples.