Editor Pick
Bonaparte
- May 3, 2006
- Rated 4 of 5 by
TakeMeThereNow from San Francisco, California
Bonaparte Restaurant is a part of Auberge Bonaparte in Vieux Montreal. Since my reservation was for 8pm, I left my hotel at 7:30pm and arrived at a leisurely 7:55pm. The restaurant appeared filled to capacity, so it took a moment before the host was able to help me. I waited approximately another 5 minutes as my table was readied. The waiter helped me to remove my jacket, as well as pulling out my chair to seat me.My seat faced a window overlooking the cobblestone streets and street lamps of Vieux Montreal. The planters hanging from the awning created a picture postcard view, especially as caleches meandered down the street.After eyeing the menu, I was most interested in the menu degustation, though there were a couple of other table d'hote menus for very reasonable prices. The menu degustation was a steal at C$57 (i.e. approximately $42); it offered 6 courses, plus either coffee or tea. When the waiter asked what I would like to drink, I inquired about white wines by the glass. He simply told me that they offered a French sauvignon blanc, an Italian sauvignon blanc or an American chardonnay. I chose the French sauvignon blanc, which was redolent with honeysuckle.My meal began with a mixed green salad including pine nuts and parmesan cheese. The greens were butterleaf lettuce, endive, and frisee, dressed in a champagne vinaigrette. The salad was nice and light, not overly dressed and with the pleasing crunch of the pine nuts. This was followed by their house-smoked salmon served with condiments (capers, Dijon mustard, and onions); a successful blending. For my third course, I wavered between the shrimp and scallops scented with vanilla, or the mushroom ravioli perfumed with fresh sage. After consulting with my waiter, I chose the mushroom ravioli. He found the shrimp and scallops good, but the mushroom ravioli "special". The raviolis were ethereal and feathery, delicately seasoned with sage—definitely not overpowering as sage can often be. My next course was a bubbly lemon sherbet, ostensibly to cleanse the palate. A veal fillet served with morel mushrooms and fresh cream was my main course. There was nothing unusual or outstanding about it; the dish was good, but not particularly memorable. I ended with their "symphony" of desserts. A symphony it certainly was, as each dessert certainly struck a chord with me. These consisted of a crème brulee, a chocolate and hazelnut cake known as a Palais Royal, a mango Bavarian and a maple syrup cheesecake (lest we forget we're in Montreal!).SERVICE
Service was adept without being mechanical. My waiter was affable and offered suggestions. Other than commenting on the size of my black pearl pendant and asking whether I'd been to Tahiti, he wasn't annoyingly familiar or chatty. He had also brought a slice of cake embellished with a sparkler to the honeymooning couple sitting closest to me, which I thought was a nice gesture.
From journal Bonafide French