Summertime in Montreal

1- Notre Dame Cathedral
2. Visit La Ronde - the "kids" young and old will like it - an amusement park on an island.
3. St.Denis Street - for shopping.
4. Rue St. Paul - for restaurants.
5. Rue Notre Dame - for galleries.
6. Ride a caleche through Vieux Montreal.
7. Stop for lunch or afternoon wine in Jacques Cartier Square.
8. Visit the Bon Secours Marche.

Quick Tips:

1. You need good walking shoes a pedometer is interesting - you walk much further than you think.
2. Focus on one section of the city per day - La Ronde, Mont Royal, Vieux Montreal, St. Denis, St Laurent, Botanical Garden or under ground shopping on a rainy day.
3. Rent bikes to ride along the waterfront.
4. A ferry ride or Brunch on one of the tour boats, gives you a different perspective of the city.
5. Sit on one of the picnic tables at the foot of Jacques Cartier Square with an ice cream or poutine (french fries with gravy topped with cheese curd). You'll hear the music and may even see the performers wie resting your feet.
9. Take along a Panini and sit by the pond under a tree for an hour or so to rest while visiting the Botanical Garden.

Best Way To Get Around:

Leave your car behind if at all possible. lots of traffic, one way streets, signage in French (expected - you are in Montreal),difficult to park on the street and parking garages are expensive - for the evening and CAD overnight.
Subways are easy to use and run frequently - .75 per trip. There are daily, weekly and monthy passes. Since our stay focussed on Vieux Montreal this time, we only purchased a one day pass for .00 - Well worth it for the savings. The stations are bright and airy, well marked and a timer lets you know when the next train is approaching. We felt safe even at night.

Only planning to be in Montreal for a few nights, location to us became important and since the international fireworks competition in the port was one of the deciding factors in choosing this particular week, we thought that Springhill Suites was a good choice. The location is near perfect......In Vieux Montreal, on a narrow alley street between Rue Paul and Rue Notre Dame and only a short walk to the port or metro.

Springhill Suites is a non-descript five story building with a small lobby on the lower floor of a two story atrium - the mezzanine is where a complimentary breakfast is served daily. this level also has a small business center and wi-fi access. Internet is complimentary and available in all rooms. You are provided a cable for your high speed connection.

Our standard suite was small but adequate - a very comfortable king bed with the well known Marriott bedding and choice of pillows. Linens were of good quality and the duvet changed between guests - However some on the towels were small and threadbare. The sleeping area is separated from the living area by a four foot wall. The living area has a pull out sofa and chair. A small alcove has a desk and kitchenette (micro, under counter refrigerator and coffee maker). We did not plan to eat in, but be aware that there are only 2 mugs, 2 small glasses, 2 paper plates and 2 plastic forks.

Complimentary breakfast is self serve - toast you own bagels, muffins, fruit, cereal, eggs, sausage and make your own waffles. Three girls are working constantly to clean tables and replenish food and coffee, but it seemed
difficult for them to keep up. Lots of "hubbub". Since these are "suites", the hotel appeals to families and school groups - so people arrive to breakfast "en masse" and are constantly up and down serving themselves. Food quality is fair - everything, including coffee in urns is only warm not hot.

The small pool was not inviting since it had a very strong chlorine odor. A small gym adjacent to it has a few treadmills in case you don't walk enough in Montreal.

There are better hotels in Old Montreal but I would return to Springhill Suites - I like a suite, a refrigerator is a plus and complimentary breakfast makes this hotel a good value. Underground parking is $19/day and very convenient. The hotel has a few larger suites - some even have balconies but none have views. At the right price, this hotel is a good choice if you plan to spend some time in Old Montreal.

A rainy night in Montreal, but we do have a car....Da Emma is at the the southern tip of Old Montreal with a large parking lot. Reviews were mostly very good - the setting was perfect for this type of night.

De Emma is located in a building that was formerly a women's prison - a dreary night added to the mood. We enter through a heavy metal door and descend a few steps into a "cellar" - very dark - the bar is candlelit - we had no reservations so we were asked to sit at the bar, but before we could order a drink, we were shown to a table. Nice atmosphere - wine glasses twinkling from the candlelit reflection, animated diners of all ages - young couple, small groups of friends, after work crowd and seemingly retired people - all very comfortable with dining out in a restaurant of this type.

Everyone is served bruschetta on a large thick piece of toasted bread - very flavorful tomatoes, lots of oil and garlic - Just what is needed while having a cocktail or sipping wine, while deciding what to order.

The menu is presented on a chalk board by waiters dressed in black pants and white shirts - guess what - it's totally in Italian - a la carte and no special pricing. They are happy to explain each and every item or if you are able to decipher some of it - they will make suggestions or answer questions that you may have. One of the specialty dishes is pasta with portabello mushrooms. It was served to a nearby diner in a large bowl - She did offer tastings to her tablemates and by the reactions - it met with their approval.

We chose pasta to be served with our slow oven roasted pork instead of grilled vegetables. the waiter assured me that I had made a good choice with the pork dish. The presentation was certainly not what I had envisioned!! A whole pig is roastd for hours and then cut into serving portions. My plate held two large ribs covered with skin....the aroma....wonderful - the taste.....delicious. Very tender with pork juices. I even ate the skin and I hate to say - the fat too!! What little that I didn't finish, I had on a baguette the next day. They offer three meats slow roasted.....beef, pork and lamb. I'd certainly order it again.

Although this was a former prison, it had lots of atmosphere - dark wood, heavy stone posts and lots of candlelight to make it very romantic.

A memorable meal a few years ago left us yearning to return....It is still there and better than ever - we called for a reservation and were seated at a table for two overlooking a narrow street close to Notre Dame Cathedral.

The maitre d'h, servers and bus boys were all bi-lingual and very pleasant - Service is efficient, professional and discreet - there are six tables for two by the windows, these are unique since you go up a few steps from the main floor - sort of like a private balcony. Since this is a very old building, ceilings are high, some brick is exposed on the walls and one dining room has a fireplace.

We ordered a wine that we had sampled at a vineyard in Provence last year – not imported to the US – so we were happy to once again enjoy it. The quality of wine glasses used at Bonaparte make the wine drinking experience really special. Two types of warm bread – a traditional baguette and a multi grain bread were served with my favorite "old fashioned" salted butter.

We started our 3 course meal with rabbit wrapped in phyllo dough with raspberry sauce served along with a mixture of crisp greens with mustard vinaigrette – oh so light and tasty…..I must try to replicate it because I can’t come back to Montreal each time I have a craving….My Magret de Canard au poivre ($38.95) was cooked to perfection and presented beautifully with an assortment of seven steamed vegetables. The combination of Filet of Beef and Veal with morels was equally appealing, tender and tasty and served with the same array of crisp colorful vegetables.

Service was paced to our liking – we lingered with our wine for a while before dessert. A wonderful and tart lemon meringue pie and a chocolate mousse served with a side of whipped cream – truly another great meal…..

Go to Bonaparte.com to peruse their website - tour their rooms and drool over their menu.

Rue Paul in Old Montreal is a narrow cobblestoned street lined on both sides with a myriad of restaurants, bars, hotels, courtyards and roof tops. You're sure to find whatever ambiance you're yearning for.

Early on a Saturday evening, the pedestrian area was bustling - even more than usual, as a fireworks competition display was scheduled at the waterfront for 10PM.

Restaurant “hawkers” are at their stations, hoping to entice you into their establishment – the pleasant manager standing outside of “Le Senateur” recognized us from a short conversation earlier in the week – He pointed out that a window seat was becoming available in a few minutes – we succumbed. He ushered us past waiting patrons and he personally cleaned, napped and reset the table for us immediately . Large shutters opened on to the busy street – people watching was fun and interesting and we were happy to be able to hear the jazz band playing across the street.

The menu had four levels of prix-fixed dinners - $22/$27/$32/$39 USD – depending on your choice of five to six entrees in each menu. The $39 menu included lobster. The restaurant has a pleasant and airy feeling – the front room overlooks Rue Paul with baskets of hanging flowers and three large open windows. A long bar area opens to a second large dining area with hanging lamps – this one overlooks a landscaped area – both are pleasant. The back room more quiet….the front more interesting on a warm summer night.

Service was prompt but not rushed on this busy night. Bus boys and waiters were efficient and friendly and even took a few moments for a short conversation. Food was good for the price – tasty, but nothing exotic or gourmet. The cream of vegetable soup was smooth and flavorful – the salad - cold,fresh, crisp and dressed with a tangy mustard vinaigrette. The Chicken Tarragon ($22) served with rice and vegetables was well flavored but tasted as though it had been poached earlier in the day, rather than pan seared just prior to serving. Veal Marsala was plentiful but slightly dry – again leading me to believe that it had been cooked earlier and kept in a warming tray. The veal was served with a baked potato and aldente steamed veggies. Chocolate Mousse was quite good – small chocolate bits to give it texture with a nice consistency to the cream without added gelatin. Wine by the carafe at $24 is a bargain in Montreal and was acceptable for an impromtu meal such as this.

Guests ranged from couples of all ages, small groups of friends and families. There was lots of "buzz" in the restaurant but the noise level was more energetic than annoying. I'm sure that most people were there prior to watching the fireworks.

I would certainly return for a casual dinner on a warm evening, but it wouldn’t be my choice for a romantic dinner or a special occasion. You are made to feel welcomed and comfortable by the entire staff.