Tiananmen –Gate of Heavenly Peace – is an inappropriate name for such a blood-soaked area. When I was drawing up our Beijing itinerary, I thought: not Tiananmen. Memories of the cold-blooded way in which protestors were massacred in 1989 were still vivid enough to make me regard Tiananmen with dread.
Despite a resolve to not go to Tiananmen, we ended up visiting this vast central square – simply because it’s the heart of Beijing. In a city swamped by symbols of private enterprise, the forbidding expanse of Tiananmen Square, hemmed in by blocky Maoist monuments, is a very visible emblem of Communist rule. But private enterprise, from kite sellers and hawkers to McDonald’s, is alive and kicking all along the fringes of the square. Tourist buses bound for Badaling begin from the corner of Tiananmen, and crowds visiting the Forbidden City approach through the Tiananmen Gate. So we went to Tiananmen too, and walked from one end to the other.
The facts about it are pretty basic. One of the world’s largest city squares, Tiananmen spreads across 440,000 square metres and was laid out in 1417, during the Ming period. It was renovated in 1699, when it acquired its present form.
We began at the south end of Tiananmen. This end’s dominated by two gates of grey stone, decorated with glazed tile eaves and paintwork. The Qianmen Gate and the Zhengyanmen Gate are imposing, and even in the blazing afternoon sun, two soldiers stood ramrod straight and unblinking in the middle of the broad stretch that separates Zhengyanmen from the Mao Memorial. The only time I saw them relax was when a peon with a squat aluminium kettle brought them some tea.
The Mao Memorial, the leader’s mausoleum, occupies a large portion of Tiananmen. After Mao’s death in 1976, his body was embalmed and placed in a subzero vault at the mausoleum. The body’s mechanically raised for public viewing every morning. When we visited, the Memorial was closed for renovations, so we spent some time looking at the group statues outside – depicting the Long March – and then moved on.
North of the Memorial stands a square-sided stone pillar, the Monument to the People’s Heroes. Chinese characters in dull brass march down one side, and lotuses bloom in flowerpots round the base. In the backdrop, stretching from north to south down either side of Tiananmen Square, are staunchly Communist buildings: the Great Hall of the People on the left, and on the right, the National Museum of Chinese History and the Museum of the Chinese Revolution. Both museums were closed for renovation, so, somewhat disappointed, we walked on to the northern end of Tiananmen Square. The red gate here – a familiar sight in photographs of Beijing and the Forbidden City – is the Tiananmen Gate. Large Chinese characters are emblazoned across the facade, and the centre holds a picture of Mao. A long way beyond lies the Forbidden City.
Final analysis? Not beautiful; somewhat unsettling; but worth a visit, if only for its history.