Singapore airport is the hub for Singapore Airlines which offers creative routes for flights all over. It came as a little surprise to find a 29 hour layover there, but delightful. In any case, having seen the airport and experience the public transportation,…Read More

Singapore airport is the hub for Singapore Airlines which offers creative routes for flights all over. It came as a little surprise to find a 29 hour layover there, but delightful. In any case, having seen the airport and experience the public transportation, a layover of any length at any hours would be fine at this airport.

The body’s senses were accommodated nicely here. Eyestrain could be relieving focusing on the exotic flowering orchids, cactus garden, or butterfly garden. The sounds of the waterfalls could easily lull a person to sleep as they relaxing in the napping area of the airport containing lounges and tables hidden behind a lush corner of plants reaching toward the light shining in from the windows. It’s even possible to get a bite to eat with a 24 hour eatery.

Have more time to spare? For about $5.00 you can check you bag up to 24 hours and go into the city via the rapid transit that has a stop at the arrival hall. The open hours from 5:30am to midnight give you plenty of time to spend in Singapore.

If you have evening hours, a stop a Bugis station puts you in walking distance to Arab Street and Little India where night markets allow you to haggle for souvenirs or dine on ethnic foods. You could also take in the Ferris wheel by the gardens for an excellent panoramic view.

Early morning and daylight enable taking in the sights of Gardens by the Bay where you could spend countless hours along the waterfront, visit the enclosed gardens or do some shopping on the Louis Vuitton Island and huge Marina Bay Sands Shopping Center. And if you are still there at 8pm watch the water and light show.

Whether you stay at the airport and make use of the pool, spas, gardens, free movies or head in town, there’s no better place for layover.Close

Singapore is one of the more expensive countries to visit in SE Asia. If you are coming from another country such as Thailand or Cambodia, the price shock will be pretty severe if you aren't prepared. However, this doesn't mean that you can't afford to…Read More

Singapore is one of the more expensive countries to visit in SE Asia. If you are coming from another country such as Thailand or Cambodia, the price shock will be pretty severe if you aren't prepared. However, this doesn't mean that you can't afford to visit for a week or more. Here are a few budgeting tips to help you save a bit of cash:

1. Using the metro in Singapore is a great idea. The roads aren't really pedestrian friendly, and the city is rather confusing to get around in. While walking to China Town, I once asked a uniformed police officer for directions, and he didn't know the way! Most locals don't really walk from place to place, so if you're in a hurry you're better off using the underground metro. Every ticket that you collect, save them as you can deposit them later at a machine for a small refund.

2. There's a foreign exchange currency booth at the Changi International Airport, but don't change more than absolutely necessary here. The rate which is used at the airport is far higher than the rate used by the foregin exchange companies downtown. I changed $50 USD at both the airport and downtown, and for the latter, I received almost $3 SGD extra.

3. If you have a flight departing on a budget airline such as Tiger Airways, these airlines don't operate at the main airport. You have to take the metro to the Changi International Airport, then go to the basement floor to catch a bus to the budget terminal. You will need to buy a ticket from the booth at the bottom of the basement stairs, then follow the signs to the bus stop. I didn't know this in advance, and as a result, I almost missed my flight.

4. Shopping in China Town is a cheap alternative to the expensive malls in the city. The prices are relatively low and if you think that an item is overpriced, the merchants are usually willing to negotiate a cheaper cost. If they are being difficult, simply walk away. Chances are, another store a mere 10 feet away may have the exact same product for a more reasonable fee.

5. Singapore has an extensive bus system, which covers areas of Singapore which are unreachable with the metro. Fares depend on the distance being travelled, but are overall very cheap. There is an online bus guide which tells you the bus numbers for the various routes, so with a little bit of homework, you won't ever need to take a taxi during your stay.Close

While exploring China Town, I came across two different temples: The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Sri Mariamman. I've never seen these types of temples before, so I was happy for the opportunity to look around. The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple is a large and…Read More

While exploring China Town, I came across two different temples: The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Sri Mariamman. I've never seen these types of temples before, so I was happy for the opportunity to look around.

The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple is a large and prominent temple situated in China Town, Singapore. During my visit, there was a service taking place inside, and a large number of persons were taking part. I didn't want to intrude so I admired the temple from just outside the door instead.

Although I didn't really understand what was going on in the service, it was captivating to watch the attendees going through their solemn motions, and the buddhist chants which echoed throughout the temple were almost melodious.

Inside, the walls were filled with goregous paintings, and there were several shrines where people kneeled to pray. I didn't want to be disrespectful, so although I would have loved to photograph the event, I refrained from doing so.

The exterior of the temple was a different situation however, and it was quite a beauty to photograph. The temple was of a shocking red colour, and the design reminded me of temples in China and Japan. Chinese lanterns were strung about the temple, giving the area a distinct Oriental atmosphere. The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple deserves all the attention it receives as a great attraction in Singapore.


Sri Mariamman Temple

This is a Hindu Temple located only a few steps away from the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. I was very intrigued by the designs and stautes which were sculpted on the entrance tower of the temple. The details on the statues were beyond elaborate, and they appeared to be painted in all the colours of the rainbow. These statues were built in several layers, each layer smaller than the one before. The artwork which was poured into the creation of the tower was extraordinary.

While I gazed on the outside of the temple, a man came outside to greet me. I was rather surprised, but he seemed keen on explaining to me the different features of the temple. He insisted that I take off my shoes and actually have a proper look around. I stored my sandals into a box provided at the doorway, and silently entered the hall.

There were people praying in the main room, so I didn't want to impose. Instead, I walked around the courtyard where I could see more of the fascinating sculptures up close. I never had any previous experiences with the Hindu culture, so I was very interested in everything around me. I even read some of the plaques which hung on the walls outside, much to the interest of my new friend.

He then told me that there was to be a very exciting event taking place at the temple the following night. Apparently, men would be walking on hot coals! I've never heard of such as thing, and thought that it would be a great experience to have. He gave me a flyer with the history of the temple, and the different events which were being held that week. I thanked him for his help and left. Sri Mariamman was gorgeous, and I enjoyed my short visit inside.
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If there's one thing that definitely isn't "Asia light" about Singapore, it's Singaporean cuisine. Singaporean cuisine is among the most interesting in the world; it's definitely my favorite cuisine. Whatever you say about how "contrived" Singapore is, you definitely cannot say that about Singaporean…Read More

If there's one thing that definitely isn't "Asia light" about Singapore, it's Singaporean cuisine. Singaporean cuisine is among the most interesting in the world; it's definitely my favorite cuisine. Whatever you say about how "contrived" Singapore is, you definitely cannot say that about Singaporean cuisine.

This is all thanks to the of Singapore's population. Different regional cuisines from China, India, and the Malayan peninsula have combined over a century to produce some of the most amazing flavors.

If you want truly authentic Singaporean cuisine, the best places to eat are hawker centres (sometimes called "food centres") and "coffee shops."

Hawker centres were built because the government, at some point, decided to ban street hawkers from selling food in carts on the street. Instead, they insisted that these street hawkers band together and sell their food in proper structures, with plumbing, tables and stools. Unlike many other cities, then, you will not, therefore, find "street food" being sold on sidewalks in Singapore; rather, "street food" is found in the dozens of hawker centres around the metropolis.

These hawker centres know no class boundaries: almost ALL Singapore residents, rich or poor, eat at hawker centres. The same hawker centres where old retirees eat, one leg propped up on the bench, are also the places where business executives in neckties and powersuits come for lunch. And the food, of course, is cheap: SGD 2 to SGD 5 buys you a satisfying meal.

The other place to find authentic Singaporean cuisine is the "coffee shop." No, these are not European cafes; rather, a "coffee shop" is a restaurant on the ground floor of a building--usually an old shophouse building--with no walls or doors separating establishment from the sidewalk. The chairs and tables, then, are in the open air, and they spill out onto the sidewalk.

Hawker centres and coffee shops are not for the prissy traveler. Strict government standards ensure that the food is clean, but some tourists might be turned off by the cheap plastic plates and cups, the sometimes-muddy floors, the lack of air-conditioning, and the noise and chaos of it all.

The faint-stomached traveler, then, might prefer to go to the hundreds of restaurants in the city that boast of selling Singaporean fare. These are the restaurants with porcelain plates, printed menus, and waiters to bring you your food. Food prices are correspondingly more expensive, of course.

And *what* is there to eat? The gastronomical spectrum of Singaporean food is too large to enumerate. My own personal favorites include Hainanese chicken rice ($2.50, and available at any hawker centre in the city), Nyonyang-style fishhead curry (more difficult to come by, this is available at "barbeque seafood" stalls and restaurants, which are often only open for dinner), chili crab (also available at searood restaurants and at some hawker centre stalls), fried baby sotong (squid), and roti prata (Indian flatbread that also has a Malaysian counterpart, roti canai). Other classics include nasi lemak (Malaysia's "national dish": rice steamed in coconut water), char kway teow (a Chinese-Malay noodles dish), mi goreng (another Chinese-Malay noodles dish).

What you *shouldn't* do, however, is to limit yourself to the Ministry of Tourism brochures that tells you where to eat. Sure, there are some good eateries in these brochures, but my best gastronomic experiences in Singapore have been in places not listed in any tourist brochure.

Some people say you can see everything there is to see in Singapore in a day or two. I'm not sure if that's true. I am sure, though, that an entire MONTH in Singapore is not enough to experience all the food wonders it has to offer.Close

Singapore had the potential to be one of the most interesting cities in Asia to visit, because of its rich heritage. Since independence from Britain in 1964, government policy has always defined the ethnic composition of Singapore in terms of three main groups: Chinese,…Read More

Singapore had the potential to be one of the most interesting cities in Asia to visit, because of its rich heritage. Since independence from Britain in 1964, government policy has always defined the ethnic composition of Singapore in terms of three main groups: Chinese, Malays and Indians, although the multiethnicity of Singapore is actually more complex than that. The ethnic Chinese are actually composed of many different ethnolinguistic groups: Hokkiens and Cantonese are probably the biggest ethnic Chinese groups. Although the first Indians to come to Singapore were mostly Tamils, Singapore has also, since independence, been home to Bengalis, Punjabis and other Indian ethnic groups. Peranakans, of mixed Chinese and Malay descent, were the first large group of mixed ethnicity, and mixed marriages have increased over the last decade. Immigration and the growth of the expat community has also led to the increased population of other ethnic groups, from all over

This rich, multicultural heritage makes Singapore a truly multicultural community. At any time on the bus or train, a visitor will here several different languages being spoken, though the lingua franca remains to be "Singlish," a pidgin English generously interspersed with words from Bahasa Melayu, Hokkien, Cantonese, Tamil and other languages.

Given this rich heritage, why, then, do most travelers to Singapore find the city-state to be "Asia Light," a "sanitized," "contrived" microcosm of Asia? During my last trip to Singapore, this question was at the back of my mind as I visited places both familiar to me (I had lived in Singapore in the 1980s and come back to visit once before this trip), and unfamiliar to me.

I found the answer to my question when I watched a video at the Chinatown Heritage Centre (see my review in this journal). One of the interviewees lamented how the "spirit" of Chinatown (see my review in this journal) had been destroyed when Chinatown was converted into a pure commercial area, and its residents transferred to the ubiquitous government-built HDB flats which house some 90% or so of Singaporean citizens.

What the interviewee said of Chinatown is true for much of the rest of Singapore as well. The Singapore government has been swift and efficient in its efforts at rapid urbanization, and its attempts to open Singapore to Western culture in order to "keep pace" with the Western world. The small land area of Singapore was a problem that the government prioritized from the very beginning, and the government's land management efforts have been at the heart of Singapore's blueprint for development.

The result has been tremendous success at achieving the goals of the land management programs: providing decent housing for all its citizens and completely eradicating the squalid living conditions still found in most other Asian countries, a good balance of urban modernity and greenery (no street in Singapore has a shortage of green spaces), and a logical distribution of scarce land among the various needs of the community.

There has, however, been one major casualty of this heavy-handed planning: and that has been Singapore's local color. Authentic local color does not emerge self-consciously, with the goal of trying to impress tourists. Rather, it emerges organically, when a community takes a locale, owns it, and transforms it at the grassroots according to its own needs, wants, and culture, with no intention of trying to "sell" itself to travelers. This, however, is not what has happened in most of the ethnic enclaves marked out on Singapore tourist maps.

To go back to Chinatown as an example. Although the government has insisted that Chinatown remain Chinese with all the shops and restaurants in the area remaining "Chinatown-themed," the whisking away of residents from this area has turned the area into nothing more than a China-themed mall, with businesses hoping for nothing more than to sell the Chinese theme to tourists looking for a quick, tacky souvenir to put on their refrigerator. You do not go to Chinatown to see experience the ethnic Chinese way of life, to witness the different tensions and triumphs of an ethnic Chinese subpopulation trying to keep alive the culture it has brought to Singapore from the Chinese mainland, amid the multiracial tensions that are part of Singapore's history.

The result? Even in the predominantly-Chinese Singapore, Chinatown is, for the most part, "Chinatown Light." Chinatowns in other parts of the world feel far more authentic than Singapore's Chinatown. The same is true for Singapore's "Arab Quarter" as well. Little India is probably the only true ethnic quarter remaining in Singapore.

This is not to say that you can't find local color in Singapore. Of course you can! But don't rely on the maps given for free by the Ministry of Tourism to tell you where to find it. This trip, I was on the hunt for just that--to find Singapore's true local color. In the rest of the journal, I describe some of the places where I found it.Close

Our romantic get away to Singapore, got off to a rough start at the airport in Bangkok.We had a terrible time with the Singapore Airline . I booked and paid months in advance using a credit card .Because I didn’t have the actual card with…Read More

Our romantic get away to Singapore, got off to a rough start at the airport in Bangkok.

We had a terrible time with the Singapore Airline . I booked and paid months in advance using a credit card .Because I didn’t have the actual card with me that I used to purchase the tickets ,we were denied boarding .We had Passports and Birth Certificates and my husbands identical credit card .but it wasn’t accepted .We had to buy another ticket on a much later flight for more money!! The airline wouldn't or couldn't do anything for us.
Strangly enough on the return trip , they didn't even ask to look at our credit card our passport was enough!!Another travel lesson learned.

On the bright side even with our late arrival ,we had time for a drink at the famous Raffles Hotel. ( a Singapore Sling of course) and a nice diiner at Clarke Quay.
This is a fun place to go for good food and the nightlife. There are so many restuarants it's a hard pick but we decided on Fish Tales Restarant.
Everyone just cruises around reading menus and picking a spot with a good seat and view if possible. There are lots of choices . Cuisines range from Chinese, Indian, Western, Indonesian and Seafood.

We tried the chili crab . Being from Nova Scotia , we're no stranger to shellfish , but I have to say this was different and very good. Be warned it is messy though.

Singapore has many ethnic districts that are so much fun for shopping and eating .Over the next couple of days we explored them all.

China Town- some good bargains and lots of tasty cheap meals.

Arab Street - although we didn't eat there the food looked pretty good . It was amazing to walk through the narrow sidewalks overflowing with all the beautiful textiles . I bought a couple of gorgeous prints for table cloths and at about $5.00 each I wish I had bought more. There were tons of silks to chosse from as well.

Little India- The aromas of the spice alone make it worth it to go.

For the very best shopping though it is hard to beat Orchard Road . Fun for those who love to shop and even for those who don't.

Note : if you want a cab make sure you are in a designated cab stopping spot ...otherwise you will be out of luck!!









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What can you possibly do if you have less than 7 hours in Singapore? Not much. That's how much time I had when I decided to take an early morning bus from Kuala Lumpur to Larkin, Johore Bahru. Then I took a Singapore Causeway bus…Read More

What can you possibly do if you have less than 7 hours in Singapore? Not much. That's how much time I had when I decided to take an early morning bus from Kuala Lumpur to Larkin, Johore Bahru. Then I took a Singapore Causeway bus at Larkin to Bugis Street. Bugis Street was once famous for its nightly gathering of transvestites, a phenomenon which made it an iconic tourist destination in Singapore in the 1970s. Today, it has turned into a retail complex of modern shopping malls, restaurants and nightspots mixed with roadside vendors.

From there, I took the MRT to Orchard Road. Orchard Road has an extensive underground infrastructure, including underground pedestrian walkways between shopping malls running underneath the street. The air-conditioned walkways between shopping centers is the way to cool off in the hot steamy condition in Singapore. As I alighted from the Orchard station, I went straight to ION Orchard, a new addition to Orchard Road's list of shopping malls in 2009. It has upmarket flagships such as Louis Vuitton as well as affordable options like Uniqlo.

With only two hours left before I met some friends that I have not seen in almost ten years, I decided to try some local food in the food court at Takashimaya. I had a pulut (glutinous rice) in brown sugar with coconut. It was delicious. I tried the fruit rojak (salad) as well which turned out pretty good too.

Food is becoming an important part of Singaporeans' lifestyles today. From local food fares at hawker centers to high-end international cuisines at 5-star hotels, there is an endless list of different cuisines to suit your taste and budget. Char kway teow, chicken rice, and fish head curry are local favorites while French and Italian are served at posh classy restaurants for the ones who like to be pampered.

However, the city-state has a lot more to offer besides being a food and shopping paradise. If you are a nature lover, there are lots of parks to choose from. Two come out tops among tourists - The Jurong Bird Park and Night Safari. The Jurong Bird Park is the largest bird park in the world, and it has more than 8,000 birds from 600 species. The Night Safari is nestled in 40 hectares of lush forestry, reputed as the world's first nocturnal zoo.

If you are feeling lucky, and you're yearning for some Ka-Ching, you might like to visit the Resorts World Casino and Marina Bay Sands, two gambling casinos legalized by the government in Singapore in 2005. Integrated between these two casinos are world class hotels, Universal Studio Singapore, Marine Life Park, Maritime Xperiential Museum, FestiveWalk and many other world-class attractions.

In most Asian cities like Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta, and Bangkok traffic during rush hour are horrendous. This is not the case in Singapore. In fact, it is home to one of the world's best airports, and it has one of the best public transportations in Asia. Its Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) has more than 75 stations, and there are more than 300 bus servicing all parts of Singapore operated by SBS Transit and SMRT Corporation. Its average daily ridership is almost 2 million and rising.

As my clock on my ipod hit 6.00 pm I knew I had to hurry to meet Siou Ling, an old friend. A text message came from her, and there she was waiting at the information counter at Ngee Ann City. It seemed like we just met a week ago. We decided to go for a bite at one of the cafes in the mall. Erni Susanto, another friend of ours joined us later. Siou Ling and Erni Susanto came from Malaysia and Indonesia respectively. Both got their permanent residence a few years ago. They are very happy with their work, and most importantly, they are very happy with life at their adopted country. I could see why.

Singapore is one of the most enjoyable cities in Southeast Asia. It is one of the four Asian Tigers. It has one of the busiest ports in the world and it is the world's fourth largest foreign-exchange trading center. The World Bank ranks Singapore as the world's top logistics hub. It is a popular travel destination, totaling more than 10 million in 2007. Where else in the world can you dip into cultures of China, India, and Malaysia all in one day, against a backdrop of ultra-modern Western commerce?

Time was ticking away and I had to leave for the bus in Bugis Street for my bus (again) in Larkin, Johore Bahru to Kuala Lumpur. I managed to get the last bus leaving Kuala Lumpur at midnight. It was really wonderful to see my friends again after so many years, and please do not attempt to see SIngapore in (less than) a day. The city-state has so much to offer in such a small place. It has a bit of everything other cites in Asia have just like the rojak I had earlier at Takashimaya.




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Singapore was one of the most dense travelling experiences that I have ever had. We had a very short amount of time in the country and there is a lot to see and enjoy here. Accordingly we had a very full day and…Read More

Singapore was one of the most dense travelling experiences that I have ever had. We had a very short amount of time in the country and there is a lot to see and enjoy here. Accordingly we had a very full day and a half getting acquainted with all that Singapore has to offer.

After getting lost in the business district of the city several times (it seemed like all roads led back here) we managed to make it to the Esplanade. Simply because their architecture is durian-inspired and I was travelling with a durian enthusiast, these buildings had made it onto our must-see list. They are located in a lovely part of the city known as the Marina Bay. Like all of Singapore, it is immaculate. The combination of waterfront, cityscapes and unique architecture made this a great stop. After wandering through the buildings, which are primarily used for concerts and performances, but are also home to some stores and restaurants, we made it to the waterfront. We chose to go through the buildings because they are very well air conditioned and Singapore is HOT, even in December. On the waterfront side of the Esplanade, there are more restaurants and beverage carts.

Our final city stop for the day was Chinatown, which wasn't anything like what I had expected. I was anticipating something along the lines of NYC Chinatown. Singapore is a different world, however. What I found was more of the interesting tropical/colonial architecture, with colorful buildings and well-kept store fronts selling everything from traditional Chinese medicine to dried seafood. While the surroundings were traditionally Singaporean, the contents of the stores were what you would expect to see in Hong Kong. Very interesting.

It was here that we found one of the most interesting foods that we encountered on the whole of the trip: the durian pancake. This stand was located in a food court as near a subway station. While they also sold crepes with more traditional flavors like chocolate, I only observed people ordering the durian version. We had plenty of time to observe since the line was VERY long. The pancake itself was thinner than a french crepe, almost crispy and the durian filling was durian on steroids. Durian concentrate. For the true durian lover only.

There is some great Chinese food on offer here. Every food court had tons of great options for the budget traveller. The food courts also offer stalls that sell bowls of sweetened, flavored ice. These are a wonderful way to beat the heat and there are dozens of colorful flavors to choose from. If I had a month in Singapore I would have tried a different one every day.

After enjoying our ices, it was time to go to the Night Safari, which I will write about in more detail. Suffice it to say that it was worth the steep admission price.

The next morning we had several hours to kill before our flight left. We left our bags with the front desk and headed out to Orchard Road. It seemed that all of Singapore was out shopping. I thought I was used to retail paradise in America. I was wrong. There are stores upon stores here. Escalators and elevators and sales being advertised everywhere. Also strange was the preponderance of Christmas advertising and music. The whole city was decked out for a holiday that is only meaningful to a minority. I suppose it's a relic of colonialism kept alive by retailers looking to give people a reason to buy. It is a lively atmosphere and a great place for us to spend our last hours in the city.

After this we picked up our bags and headed off on a crowded subway ride to the airport. The ride wasn't overly long and we had a little time to spend at Changi, which is a truly impressive airport. After this little taste, I do hope I can return to Singapore and see some of the (many) things I missed. Sentosa and the Singapore Flyer are waiting.Close

With only one night in Singapore, we knew that maximizing our time was going to be key. We also determined quickly that there wasn't any way that we would be able to see everything we wanted to, or even close. We got a…Read More

With only one night in Singapore, we knew that maximizing our time was going to be key. We also determined quickly that there wasn't any way that we would be able to see everything we wanted to, or even close. We got a shuttle from the airport directly to our hotel (it seems like most hotels are covered by these shuttles, for a nominal fee.) Once there we checked in, which is a story for another day, then we headed out in search of some of the good food we heard was everywhere in Singapore.

As luck would have it, we stumbled on one of the many food courts that the hawkers have been moved into. There were so many choices here that it was almost impossible to choose. We eventually settled on Indian and got some mild, flavorful curry and some savory pastry. The only seats that we could find were in front of a beverage stand, so we decided to get something to drink (not a hard decision as the heat was pretty intense). We opted for the green beverage in the large container in front instead of any of the canned options, because as far as I know, I'm only in Singapore once and I might as well drink the mystery green beverage. It turned out to be sugar cane juice. Which was right up my alley, monster sugar tooth and all. Others might feel differently as it was VERY sweet.

After this brief stop we were off again towards Arab Street. It turned out to be a highlight of our time in Singapore. Arab Street is full of merchants looking to custom tailor you a suit or sell you beautiful silks. It is also a lovely interesting place with colorful, colonial buildings. We purchased some pretty silk scarves as souvenirs at about $3US apeice, we considered it a steal. If we had more time, we may have considered the tailors' offers as there rates were quite reasonable and the fabrics were lovely.

We spent the rest of the day wandering around and looking at all the historic sights we could. We took in historic churches and mosques. We also made it to Merlion Park to take a look at the Merlion. We weren't sure what we were looking at at first but the number of tourists around convinced us that this was a sight worthy of pictures. We had a laugh later when we looked it up in the guidebook and discovered that it was the mascot of Singapore. Next time we'll try to do more research before arrival.

We arrived in Singapore after touring Malaysia and the level of cleanliness an order is borderline ridiculous. It reminded me most of a Disney park, where men in white suits run around all day making sure that everything is as clean and orderly as possible, so the "magic" isn't ruined. It seemed as though a lot of the charms of southeast Asia had been sanitized out. Though if you don't want to deal with any unpleasantries (or at least any more than the normal human condition requires) this might be the destination for you.

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When a Javanese friend texted and said that we all should meet in Lau Pa Sat for dinner, I had to google and see just where this big hawker stand was located. The location on the map looked familiar, and I realized I had stopped…Read More

When a Javanese friend texted and said that we all should meet in Lau Pa Sat for dinner, I had to google and see just where this big hawker stand was located. The location on the map looked familiar, and I realized I had stopped there before for a lunch but had never been there at night. She made an excellent call on going there – and it really is a totally different place at night.
There are many hawker locations throughout Singapore, some small and then there large ones like Lau Pa Sat or Maxwell. People tend to flock to these concentrated spots at the big hawker areas, where it just seems there are food stall everywhere and each one is preparing its special items. All of the food preparation is under tough health inspection laws, which is very noticeable if you have been anywhere else in Asia and seen what stalls without the laws look like. Here you will find Malay dishes being cooked next to South India specialties, Indonesian noodle and rice dishes, Regional Chinese foods, Thai and many other types of cooking. From wonderful omelets to so many different curries to spicy beef noodle dishes – everything you could think of is here amongst the shouted orders, clanging and clinking of pots and the smells of so many spices floating through the air as they are being added to dishes and from those that are cooking. And on the weekends there are also live bands added to all this. This all is part of experiencing Singapore.
Lau Pa Sat is also known in Malay as Telok Ayer Market, which means water bay. In the early nineteenth century, it was but a simple wooden building, located on stilts over the waters of Telok Ayer Bay. This whole portion of the city is an area that originally was the coast line. Back in 1894, after the land had been reclaimed from the sea, the market was rebuilt as the structure that it is today by Municipal Engineer James MacRitchie, who was probably the key figure in much of the design of the city of Singapore. (You will find many different items about him in the Asian Civilizations Museum in the Singapore history section.) MacRitchie added cast-iron supports to strengthen the Victorian structures of the building. The original center area had a fountain that was later removed to make more space. In 1973-86, the market was converted into a hawker centre and closed in 1986 to make way for a new Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) line. It was renamed to Lau pa Sat in 1991 and reopened as a festival tourist market, and then in 1995 it reverted to the massive Victorian hawker market it is today.
After we had linked up at the front of the market, we wondered around for about 10 minutes looking at where we wanted to start and looking for a table. There is a lot of seating – but often a lot of people as well. If there is a fan nearby, always will be more people there – since Singapore can still be a bit warm and humid even in the evening. There is plenty of outside seating in some of the side streets closed in the evening to traffic as well. The whole of that outside area is lit up in blue or white Christmas lights strung all over the place. Just to see that in itself is worth a night visit to the market!
After finding a table, the three of us soon filled the table up with foods from about 5 different stalls and reflecting fully the different tastes we had (the Singaporean girl with us was Chinese). There was a Malay omelets, roti telur, chick satay with peanut sauce, rice with Chinese sausage bits, vegetable dishes, and so much more Indonesian and Chinese foods. We went to one of the drink stands and got green coconut and other canned drinks for our feast. For three people, our total costs were about SD25 for everything.
We picked a spot that was also great for people watch, and we all really enjoyed trying all the foods we had gotten. There was not much left on any plate by the time we finally left. I have to hand it to my Javanese friend and changing my thinking about places to really enjoy dinner in Singapore. These days I have to wonder why I had always just thought of the hawker stands of Singapore as a great lunch gathering spot – when they can be so much fun at night. I definitely look forward to the next trip to do it again.
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