Salzburg Journals

High Drama in Salzburg

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A March 2007 trip to Salzburg by Liam Hetherington

Hohensalzburg Fortress Photo, Salzburg, Austria More Photos
Quote: There's more to Salzburg than just Mozart and The Sound Of Music. The Baroque architecture and the surrounding lakes and mountains are equally dramatic.

High Drama in Salzburg

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Overview

Mirabell Gardens Photo, Salzburg, Austria
Quote:
Salzburg is a stunning little town, situated in even more stunning surroundings. Everything about Salzburg is magically dramatic. From the moment your plane banks sharply to swoop around a snow-capped peak you know this. The Aldstadt on the southern bank of the shimmering Salzach is as harmonious a collection of cream facades and baroque styles as you could hope to imagine. The echoes of Mozart (the man and his music) chime from doorways. The Festung Hohensalzburg fortress looms high above town, visible from every spot. All around can be glimpsed proper Alpine mountains, the jagged pointy type, dusted with snow. The ambiance of Salzburg is its joy. There are few 'must-see' sights. I suppose...Read More

Goldenes Theater Hotel

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Hotel | "Cordial Theater Hotel"

Goldenes Theater Hotel Photo, Salzburg, Austria
Quote:
For such a theatrical and musical city the concept behind the Cordial Theatre Hotel, situated just where the pedestrianised Linzergasse ends, is perfect. When they say 'theatre-hotel', they "mean" 'theatre-hotel'. The restaurant is decorated with colourful opera pictures and the walls by the lift are covered with signed photos of what are presumably theatrical celebrities in Austria (about the only one I recognised was a certain Luciano Pavarotti - whether he has ever stayed here I don't know, but thankfully they've refilled the breakfast buffet since then!). As an added conceit all the rooms are named after composers. Walking down the corridor my excitement built as I passed famous names on the doors...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on May 18, 2007

Goldenes Theater Hotel
Schallmooser Haupstrasse 13
Salzburg, Austria
+43 662 881681

St. Peter Stiftskeller - the Restaurant

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Restaurant | "Stiftskeller St. Peter"

St. Peter Stiftskeller - the Restaurant Photo, Salzburg, Austria
Quote:
It is always special when you visit a restaurant older than your grandfather. The Stiftskeller St. Peter is older than my country!Attached to the Stiftskirche, and formerly part of the abbey, the restaurant is in the same arched brick vaults it has occupied since 803. It was once frequented by Mozart (but of course it was - he lived in Salzburg for over twenty years. About the only place that doesn't claim to have been frequented by young Wolfgang is McDonald's. Now Gluck, however, that's a different story...). Inside waiters stand grandly in their collarless green jackets. Candles flicker and the chairs are covered. The cutlery is shiny enough for you to see your face in.Foregoing win...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on May 18, 2007

St. Peter Stiftskeller - the Restaurant
St Peter-Bezirk 1/4
Salzburg, Austria 5010
43 662 841 268 0

Frauenberger's

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Restaurant

Quote:
Frauenbergers could be a perfectly decent restaurant if they would only make one change - ban smoking.Located right on Linzergasse, heading north of the Salzach, the restaurant is conveniently located to catch the most of the passing trade. There are a cluster of restaurants nearby. I chose here because, while the menu might not have been radically different to those offered elsewhere, it seemed marginally cheaper (mains between €8 and €14).Entering, the restaurant seemed a convivial place, full of chat. The clientele seemed to be mainly locals having a natter over a pizza or salad, a lager, and a cigarette. Unfortunately the low, white-washed cellar-type construction of the re...Read More

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on May 18, 2007

Frauenberger's
Linzergasse 11
Salzburg
+4366 2874 4130

Hohensalzburg Fortress

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Attraction | "Festung Hohensalzburg"

Hohensalzburg Fortress Photo, Salzburg, Austria
Quote:
The great white fortress of the Festung Hohensalzburg dominates the town like a castle on a cloud. The dramatic sight can be seen from most anywhere in town.Salzburg withstood absorption into the lands of its hungry neighbours for centuries, and it was here that the powerful Archbishop-Princes had the seat of their temporal power. Construction started in 1077, and continued apace - almost each successive archbishop added further towers, circuit walls and bastions to protect themselves less against foreign aggressors and more against any possible uprising by the townsfolk below. As it was, its most serious test was in 1525 when rebellious miners unsuccessfully besieged the fort. Faced with the ...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on May 18, 2007

Hohensalzburg Fortress
Mönchsberg 34
Salzburg, Austria 5020
+43 662 84243011

Stiftskirche St. Peter (Abbey Church of St. Peter)

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Attraction | "Stiftskirche St. Peter"

Every stone shall tell Photo, Salzburg, Austria
Quote:
Salzburg is a town not short on churches. To my mind the Stiftskirche St. Peter, reached off Franziskanergasse is the most charming. Dating from the ninth century the church, once the haunt of Benedictine monks, remains small and plain - from the outside at least. Inside it has had one of the least intrusive baroque make-overs in town, and is not excessive in its ornateness. Mint-green ivy-like traceries winding up the walls and over the ceiling give it a cool ambience.If the church is nice, the graveyard behind is wonderful. It is not a large plot of land, jammed in as it is between the walls of the church and the sheer rockface of the Monchsberg cliff, and with a burial chapel in the centre....Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on May 18, 2007

Stiftskirche St. Peter (Abbey Church of St. Peter)
St. Peter-bezirk 1
Salzburg, Austria
0662/844578-0

Panorama Tours

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Attraction | "Lakes and Mountains Tour"

Panorama Tours Photo, Salzkammergut, Austria
Quote:
Salzburg may be beautiful, but it pales next to the scenery amidst which it is situated. To understand why Salzburg is so richly decorated you have to understand where that wealth came from - the natural bounty of the Salzkammergut region.There are two main companies in Salzburg offering escorted trips around the region - Panorama Tours, and Salzburg Sight-Seeing Tours, both of whom seem to have identical itineraries for identical prices (€35 for three hours). I went for the 'Lakes and Mountains' tour offered by Panorama, booked it at the counter in the main tourist office on Residenzplatz, and arranged for them to pick me up from my hotel at 2pm. Setting off on the tour there were fiv...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on May 18, 2007

Panorama Tours

Salzburg, Austria

Mozart's Residence

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Attraction | "Mozarts Wohnhaus"

Mozart's Residence Photo, Salzburg, Austria
Quote:
Salzburg's most famous son is a certain Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, as you will easily see - from the Mozart concerts liberally advertised around town, to the expensive Mozart chocolate balls sold in all the gift shops.When it comes to classical music I am a notorious duffer. Previously my nearest experience of the great composer was playing his rival / nemesis Antonio Salieri in the play 'Amadeus' by Peter Shaffer, a work that - narrated from Salieri's envious view point - cannot be strictly relied upon to give a balanced opinion on "sh*t-talking Mozart with his botty-smacking wife". So whilst in Salzburg I resolved to learn more at one of the two museums devoted to Mozart.Mozart's Gebur...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on May 22, 2007

Mozart's Residence
Makartplatz 8
Salzburg, Austria 5020
+43 662 87422740