Salzburg Journals

The Splendour of Salzburg

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A June 2006 trip to Salzburg by phileasfogg

Mozarts Birthplace (Mozarts Geburtshaus) Photo, Salzburg, Austria More Photos
Quote: There’s a lot going for Salzburg. The hills are cool and green. The palaces, cathedrals and squares are as impressive as anywhere in Europe. And Mozart, who’s turned 250 this year, reigns supreme.

The Splendour of Salzburg

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Overview

Franziskanerkirche Photo, Salzburg, Austria
Quote:
We spent only two days in Salzburg, but it was enough to convince us that this pretty city, nestling in the green hills on the banks of the Salzach River, has its fair share of sights to see and things to do.Amongst the top sights is definitely Schloß Hellbrunn, the palace built by Archbishop Markus Sittikus in the midst of a series of water gardens, complete with grottoes and trick fountains. For those who can’t imagine Salzburg without The Sound of Music, there’s a little bit of movie memorabilia at Hellbrunn- in one corner of the park surrounding the palace is the pavilion in which "I am sixteen, going on seventeen" was filmed.The Alstadt- the area around the Residenz...Read More

Gasthof Turnerwirt Hotel

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Hotel | "Gasthof Turnerwirt"

Gasthof Turnerwirt Hotel Photo, Salzburg, Austria
Quote:
It took us two bus rides from the train station to get to the Gasthof Turnerwirt. We got off the bus, which, glory be, stops in front of the hotel, and my first thought was: This is pretty! The Turnerwirt is a lovely, old-fashioned place all right. It stands at the foot of a low wooded hill, and is delightfully quaint. Inside, the prettiness took a slight dive, but it still wasn’t bad. The corridors, which light up as you walk through, were hung with watercolours of animals. Our room, which had a huge window overlooking the hill was very clean, but that was it. It was by far the tiniest I’ve ever stayed in, and our first reaction was a horrified "How are we going to fit?" The double bed wa...Read More

Member Rating 1 out of 5 on July 2, 2006

Gasthof Turnerwirt Hotel
Linzer Bundesstrasse 54
Salzburg, Austria 5023

Zur Goldenen Ente

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Restaurant | "Würsthaus Hotel Zur Goldenen Ente"

Zur Goldenen Ente Photo, Salzburg, Austria
Quote:
Wandering round Residenzplatz can be wearying work, and we were hungry by early afternoon. We settled on the würsthaus at the Hotel Zur Goldenen Ente, which we discovered down a lane leading away from Residenzplatz. The hotel lies down Goldgasse, past a couple of Oriental restaurants—but their restaurant specialises in traditional Austrian food. And my, oh my, do they know their job! Like most other restaurants, this one too has seating inside and outside. All the tables inside the restaurant were occupied, so we asked for one outside. We were told, rather apologetically by a very young blond waiter, that we could share a table with another couple, if that was okay with us, and with them, ...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on July 2, 2006

Zur Goldenen Ente
Goldgasse 10
Salzburg, Austria 5020
43/(0) 662/84 56 22

Café Tomaselli

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Restaurant

Quote:
We’d been ravenous when we first stepped into Café Tomaselli: wandering around all morning and noon had given us a big appetite. Unfortunately, one look at the menu shattered our hopes: there didn’t seem to be much that could fortify us. Omelettes, coffees, teas, breakfast, pastries: no, we were looking for something more substantial. But the coffees and the pastries sounded delicious, so we made a mental note to come back, and we did, a few hours later, when caffeine withdrawal symptoms had set in. The café was pretty full by then, so we sat at a table at the outdoor Kiosk Tomaselli. The café, by the way, is no spring chicken: it’s been around since 1753 (although the inn to which it’s attached ...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on July 2, 2006

Café Tomaselli
Alter Markt 9
Salzburg, Austria
0662/84-44-88

Resch and Lieblich

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Restaurant

Quote:
We discovered Resch and Lieblich one evening, when it was drizzling and bleak. We’d spent all of the day walking around and were so footsore that we’d have settled for dinner just about anywhere- and just beyond the Franziskanerkirche we found a restaurant that looked inviting. Resch and Lieblich is built into the cliff that overlooks the Residenz, and is a quiet but friendly place. Outside, under garden umbrellas, there are rough wooden tables and benches, both covered with green and white checked cloth. When we arrived, two large tables were already occupied by local men, all of them drinking half litres of beer. There was a glimpse of indoor seating too- but Tarun and I both love to eat sitting out...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on July 2, 2006

Resch and Lieblich
Toscaninihof 1
Salzburg, Austria 5020
+43 (662) 843 675

Residenzgalerie Salzburg

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Attraction

Residenzgalerie Salzburg Photo, Salzburg, Austria
Quote:
Salzburg’s Residenz was constructed in the 16th century and is a massive complex of buildings consisting of 180 rooms and 3 courtyards. This was where the prince archbishops of Salzburg lived and reigned, right up to the 1800’s. Although parts of the Residenz are still used for official purposes- especially as a venue for international conferences or other official functions- some sections are open to the public. These include the State Rooms (once the private residence of the prince archbishop) and the Residenzgalerie, a fine collection of European art from the 16th to the 19th centuries. Our luck being what it is, the State Rooms were closed off the day we went visiting- which also happened to be ou...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on July 2, 2006

Residenzgalerie Salzburg
Residenzplatz 1
Salzburg, Austria A-5020
+43/(0)662/840451-0

Salzburg Cathedral (Salzburger Dom)

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Attraction | "Salzburg Dom"

Salzburg Cathedral (Salzburger Dom) Photo, Salzburg, Austria
Quote:
We’d been walking along in the Alstadt, exploring the area, when we reached the Salzburg Dom. Since this was our first day in Salzburg, we were not really planning on doing much in the way of sightseeing: getting a feel of the city was more what we had in mind. But the magnificence of the Dom had us spellbound, and the cheerful smile on the face of the usher at the door (not to mention his welcoming "No entry fee! Come on in!") made us go in.Inside, the cathedral is a riot of splendidly worked stucco and frescoes, all most impressive. The stucco, in particular, was of a style I hadn’t seen before: each line was picked out in a dark blackish grey, which was very striking indeed. And considering the ...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on July 2, 2006

Salzburg Cathedral (Salzburger Dom)
Domplatz 1
Salzburg, Austria 5020

Stiftskirche St. Peter (Abbey Church of St. Peter)

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Attraction | "Stiftskirche St. Peter"

Stiftskirche St. Peter (Abbey Church of St. Peter) Photo, Salzburg, Austria
Quote:
I’d got so used to seeing dark and gloomy cathedrals in Europe that St Peter’s was a pleasant surprise. From the outside, this magnificent old church looks like any other medieval cathedral: majestic, beautiful, perfect for a photograph. On the inside, it’s equally lovely- but in an unusual way. Because it’s all frescoes, fresh and beautiful, against a background that’s bright white in colour, picked out with greenish-grey stucco. All over the ceiling and walls, the stucco curls and curves, highlighting the edges of the paintings and the columns, lending an airy grace to the entire interior. Along the walls hang large paintings depicting Biblical scenes, and if you walk down the nave and look straight...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on July 2, 2006

Stiftskirche St. Peter (Abbey Church of St. Peter)
St. Peter-bezirk 1
Salzburg, Austria
0662/844578-0

Mozart's Birthplace (Mozarts Geburtshaus)

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Attraction | "Mozart Geburtshaus"

Mozart's Birthplace (Mozarts Geburtshaus) Photo, Salzburg, Austria
Quote:
The town where Mozart was born obviously makes a lot of mileage out of its most famous scion. And the Mozart Geburtshaus- where he was born, today a museum- is among the city’s most important links to the great composer. The house at 9, Getreidegasse was first constructed in the 12th century, and was occupied by various families until 1747, when Leopold Mozart moved in on the third floor with his bride, Anna Maria Pertl. The Mozarts lived here for the next twenty-six years, bearing seven children. Of these, only two- Wolfgang Amadeus (born 1756) and Maria Anna Walburga `Nannerl’ (born 1751) survived childhood.The International Mozart Foundation converted the house into a museum way back in 18...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on July 2, 2006

Mozart's Birthplace (Mozarts Geburtshaus)
Getreidegasse 9
Salzburg, Austria 5020
+43 662 844313

Wasserspiele Hellbrunn

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Attraction | "Schloß Hellbrunn and the Wasserspiele"

Wasserspiele Hellbrunn Photo, Salzburg, Austria
Quote:
Hellbrunn and the Wasserspiele (Water Gardens) are best on a hot day- like the day we went. After getting our tickets, we waited a few minutes for a group to form. A Hellbrunn employee leads the Wasserspiele tour, and our guide, when she realised that we all knew English (our group consisted largely of noisy American students, conducted the tour only in English.Archbishop Markus Sittikus built Schloß Hellbrunn as a pleasure resort between 1612 and 1619. He came here for breaks- and (or so it seems) to play pranks on his acquaintances. The Wasserspiele isn’t just pretty channels, fish-filled pools and grottoes; it’s also trick fountains that squirt water when you’re least expecting it. We were first...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on July 2, 2006

Wasserspiele Hellbrunn
Fürstenweg 37
Salzburg, Austria 5020
+43 662 820 372