The Karlskirche (Charles’ Church) is arguably the loveliest baroque church in Vienna – the most interesting it clearly is. Although clearly a baroque Christian church, there is something vaguely Middle Eastern in it architecture – some call it Vienna’s Hagia Sophia.

The appearance of the plague in Europe is a large contributor to the 14th century generally being considered the worst of all centuries to have been alive in Europe. The changes of premature death were pretty good amongst all classes. By the early 18th century, the plague could still struck fear and cause agonizing death, and it thus came that Emperor Karl IV promised to build a church if Vienna was relieved from the 1713 epidemic. He made good on his promise and, in 1714, set aside the astronomical sum of 300,000 guilders for this purpose. The church was to be dedicated to St Charles Borromeo, the protector against the plague, who conveniently, for posterior purposes, had the same name as the sponsoring emperor.

The Karlskirche was erected between 1716 and 1737 to the plans of baroque master builder Johan Bernard Fischer von Erlach. It has numerous features inspired by ancient Greek and Roman temples and architecture. It is dominated by a huge 72m-high oval dome topped by a tower-like lantern. The real surprise of the exterior is two, from a distance, almost minaret-like columns that were clearly inspired by Trajan’s column. They have low-relief sculptures illustrating scenes from the live of St Karl Borromeo. The portico reminds of a temple façade, and was probably inspired by the Pantheon in Rome.

Where most churches have a nave, the Karlskirche has a large oval-shaped hall underneath the dome. The interior is, naturally, baroque, with a huge number of statues, trompe-l’oeil, and other over-the-top decorations. The real masterpiece is the dome fresco painting of the life of St Charles by Johann Michael Rottmayr. While this painting is being restored, visitors can use an elevator to the lower sections of the dome and stairs all the way to the top into the lantern. As one ascends in the middle of the dome, rather than at its edges, like most other accessible domes, one really does get a fantastic, close-up view of the paint work. The views of Vienna from inside the lantern are splendid, although the scaffolding is eerily not 100% stable.

Lutheran Reformation (1518), religious civil wars, Peace of Augsburg (1555), Thirty Years’ War, Peace of Westphalia (1648) – all forgotten and forgiven in this fresco painted between 1725 and 1730? Clearly not! Note the angel about to torch the Lutheran bible.

For coffee, try the nearby Café Schwarzenberg. Its outdoor seating area offers fine views of the Karlskirche.