Socotra: Where People Are As Beautiful As The Land

Getting Sick on Socotra

Best Of IgoUgo

Story/Tip

Another Weird Tree on Socotra Photo, Socotra, Yemen

Quote:

If there was one theme that could summarize my stay on the island of Socotra, it would have to be getting sick. Despite having an amazing visit to Socotra, as anyone would, the three and one-half days spent there were punctuated by people getting sick, including myself. So, I am writing this to give you a glimpse as to how easy you can get sick here. It shouldn't scare you, though, as long as you use some common sense and take precautions.Upon my arrival, my guide told me that he was tired and feeling a bit ill. So, the first two days of my trip he spent quite a good amount of time resting and sleeping, hoping it would help cure him. But, by the morning of my third day, he was too ill t...Read More

If there was one theme that could summarize my stay on the island of Socotra, it would have to be getting sick. Despite having an amazing visit to Socotra, as anyone would, the three and one-half days spent there were punctuated by people getting sick, including myself. So, I am writing this to give you a glimpse as to how easy you can get sick here. It shouldn't scare you, though, as long as you use some common sense and take precautions.

Upon my arrival, my guide told me that he was tired and feeling a bit ill. So, the first two days of my trip he spent quite a good amount of time resting and sleeping, hoping it would help cure him. But, by the morning of my third day, he was too ill to be my guide. So, as we drove through Hadibu to go to Dihamri, my driver and I dropped him off at the local hospital. I did not see him again until the next day, when he informed me that he had typhoid. Luckily, I had a typhoid vaccine, so I was safe.

On my second day on Socotra I, too, felt ill. But, I knew exactly why. On the first day, when in the village of Qalansiyah, I had drank the "local drink." I never knew the name, but I knew it contained mango, milk, and ice blended together. It was basically a smoothie, and the ice is what got me sick. The ice used local "tap" water, which was not safe for me to drink. Had I used a little common sense and not drank the drink with 'tap" water, I could have been spared the 24 hours of nausea, stomach pains, and lightheadedness that followed.

The first day of my trip on Socotra, my guide and driver invited one of their friends to come with us. I never knew his name, and he knew no English. But, he was friendly, and actually owned the same cell phone as me. Anyway, on the morning of day two, someone phoned him to say his mother was sick. He immediately took a local taxi back from Qalansiyah to his home. Later in the trip, we learned that she was taken to the hospital (where my guide had gone to b diagnosed with typhoid), and that she had fallen into a coma.

With people getting sick left-and-right, I kind of felt like it would be good to leave the island (even though I really did not want to leave). As I waited to board my flight out of Socotra, an ambulance pulled up to the airplane and loaded someone onto the plane. So, again, someone was sick. They loaded the person into the back of the plane, and then everyone else boarded. In Al-Mukalla, the plane de-boarded from the back of the plane. As I got closer, I saw the sick person; a woman who appeared to be sleeping across one row of seats. I then noticed someone looking at me. It was my guide's friend whose mother had fallen into a coma, and it was her mother in the coma on the plane. I said a few words to him, which I do not know if he understood, and gave him my prayers. Most people on Socotra are very poor, and may never leave that island. So, I can only wonder if my guide's friend and his mother had made their first plane ride and trip to the mainland on that day, unfortunately under bad circumstances.

Luckily, I did not get sick for the remainder of my trip after visiting Socotra. Read Less

Cheer!
Flag

Detwah Lagoon - Socotra

Best Of IgoUgo

Attraction

Detwah Lagoon - Socotra Photo, Socotra, Yemen

Quote:

Less than two hours from Hadibu, with a paved road the entire way, is the village of Qalansiyah and the nearby Detwah Lagoon. Located in the northwest coast of Socotra, the village is one of the larger ones on the island. It has a few stores and a place to eat, but is mainly just a residential coastal village with access to the sea and people spending their days fishing and grazing animals. Just north of the village, beyond large sand dunes and some cliffs, is one of the most beautiful places in the world: Detwah Lagoon.In short, Detwah Lagoon is huge and amazing. If you want a secluded beach, this is THE place. From the entrance area where cars are parked, you can walk around the lagoo...Read More

Less than two hours from Hadibu, with a paved road the entire way, is the village of Qalansiyah and the nearby Detwah Lagoon. Located in the northwest coast of Socotra, the village is one of the larger ones on the island. It has a few stores and a place to eat, but is mainly just a residential coastal village with access to the sea and people spending their days fishing and grazing animals. Just north of the village, beyond large sand dunes and some cliffs, is one of the most beautiful places in the world: Detwah Lagoon.

In short, Detwah Lagoon is huge and amazing. If you want a secluded beach, this is THE place. From the entrance area where cars are parked, you can walk around the lagoon to reach beautiful, empty beaches all along the sea. The sand is filled with crabs that run very quickly away from anyone, and a few interesting items that the sea brings in (huge tree branches, containers from ships, etc.). The waves on the sea are big and powerful, and contain sharks (so be on alert!). If the waves are not your preference, it is very easy to just relax along the placid lagoon water. During the day, when the tide is low, it is almost possible to walk around the entire lagoon. If you venture into the lagoon, which is only a few feet deep, be very careful for stingrays (I almost stepped on one). The water is crystal clear, so you'll see anything you don't want to step on. Along the sand dunes and cliffs is at least one small "cave" that overlooks the entire lagoon and out of the hot sun.

During my visit, in late November, I had the entire beach and lagoon to myself (aside from my driver and guide). Apparently Italians flock to this beach, and only a week before there were 50+ Italians here. But, chances are you will see very few people on the beach. From the beach, it is very easy to walk to Qalansiyah and meet local people.

The only way to spend the night in Qalansiyah and Detwah Lagoon is by camping on the beach of Detwah Lagoon. Whether or not you bring your own tent, or use one from the campsite itself, it will cost you approximately $5 USD. There is a small cement block shelter with squat pit toilets nearby. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on January 14, 2008

Cheer!
Flag

Dicksam Plateau - Socotra

Best Of IgoUgo

Attraction

Dragon's Blood Tree at Sunset Photo, Socotra, Yemen

Quote:

When looking at anything online about Socotra, the one image you will most often see is of a strange looking tree that looks like an inverted umbrella... This is the Dragon's Blood Tree, and it can only be found on Socotra, and only at higher elevations. The best, and most popular, place to view this tree is on the Dicksam Plateau. It is an hour or so driving on the paved road from Hadibu to reach the plateau. Once there, you will see miles and miles of these trees, as well as other amazing sites unique to the island..Villages on the plateau are few and far between. Most are very small, and the buildings are made of stone. To reach most of them you need to drive off the paved road. Al...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 14, 2008

Cheer!
Flag

Dihamri Marine Protected Area - Socotra

Best Of IgoUgo

Attraction

Looking West from Dihamri Marine Protected Area Photo, Socotra, Yemen

Quote:

If you drive approximately 45 to 60 minutes east of Hadibu, along the paved ring road, you will eventually come across the Dihamri Marine Protected Area (about 5 minutes off the main road). This is basically a protected reef on the shore of the Arabian Sea, anchored by two large red cliffs (that are easy to climb on top of and get amazing views of Socotra's northern coastline).Dihamri is not a white sand beach that sunbathers would love. Instead, the "sand" is actually composed of small shell and fossils from the sea. At quick glance they look like white, burgundy, and creamy colored rocks. But, at closer look each one is covered with fossils. It is hard to walk on these without any sho...Read More

If you drive approximately 45 to 60 minutes east of Hadibu, along the paved ring road, you will eventually come across the Dihamri Marine Protected Area (about 5 minutes off the main road). This is basically a protected reef on the shore of the Arabian Sea, anchored by two large red cliffs (that are easy to climb on top of and get amazing views of Socotra's northern coastline).

Dihamri is not a white sand beach that sunbathers would love. Instead, the "sand" is actually composed of small shell and fossils from the sea. At quick glance they look like white, burgundy, and creamy colored rocks. But, at closer look each one is covered with fossils. It is hard to walk on these without any shoes, so sandals are recommended. Do not attempted to take any of the shells home with you...you will be stopped at the airport.

At Dihamri, it is possible to rent some snorkeling equipment for the day (approximately $2.50 USD). There is a small roped-off area in the water to go snorkeling/swimming in. It looks unimpressive from the shore, but is quite the opposite once you walk in the water and stick your head below the surface. Fish of all shapes, sizes, and colors are everywhere...swimming around the coral and you. As a New Yorker living in the Bronx, this was quite different for me...both amazing, and scary. It took a few minutes to get my heart to slow down, but once settled in the water I spent an unknown amount of time admiring what I was seeing and realizing this place was special...

If swimming is not your thing, at low tide the reef is exposed and it is very easy to walk all over the reef. It is great for photographers, as some pools of water have fish in them, and occasionally crabs. Later in the day local fishermen come to the reef to fish. Hang out with them and you'll see some pretty interesting fish.

For those who just want to relax, Dihamri has two shelters constructed. One is small (and used by the locals for qat chewing), and one is larger. They each have mattresses and pillows to relax on. Where you rent the snorkeling equipment is also the place to have a delicious meal of fish and rice made for you (and the local goats will think it is theirs, too). And, if you want to spend the night, you are more than welcome to sleep right on the beach. There is a salt water shower there, too, and some squat pit toilets. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 14, 2008

Cheer!
Flag

Taj Sheba Hotel

Best Of IgoUgo

Hotel

Quote:

Since the writing of Lonely Planet's newest guidebook, a new hotel has popped up on the island of Socotra. With few options on Socotra, the Taj Sheba Hotel gives guests generally clean rooms at excellent budget rates. It's on the outskirts of Hadibu, about 15 minutes from the airport, and is an excellent option for guests who will base their stay on Socotra in Hadibu (as opposed to roughing ti elsewhere on the island).Though I was only there for one night, I actually stayed in three rooms. My first room seemed complete and in great condition when I checked-in. But, I soon noticed that it had no electricity. Once the hotel staff turned on the electricity there (no other guests were stayi...Read More

Since the writing of Lonely Planet's newest guidebook, a new hotel has popped up on the island of Socotra. With few options on Socotra, the Taj Sheba Hotel gives guests generally clean rooms at excellent budget rates. It's on the outskirts of Hadibu, about 15 minutes from the airport, and is an excellent option for guests who will base their stay on Socotra in Hadibu (as opposed to roughing ti elsewhere on the island).

Though I was only there for one night, I actually stayed in three rooms. My first room seemed complete and in great condition when I checked-in. But, I soon noticed that it had no electricity. Once the hotel staff turned on the electricity there (no other guests were staying in that wing), I found the fan, A/C, fridge, and (most importantly) the TV did not work. So, they found me a second room (in a wing that most guests were staying in). Again, though, some things did not work (including the important TV), so they moved me to a third room. The third room had everything working, though the TV did eventually break.

The third room was actually not even complete. Much of the hotel was under construction, as was this room. Tile grout was not sanded down, molding/trim was missing, towel hangers and the fridge and a coat rack were still in their packaging, and dirty footprints from the construction workers were everywhere. I am pretty sure the hotel staff made the bed about 2 minutes before they put me in the room. Despite all that, I slept fine.

Outside the hotel is a very busy outdoor restaurant, that locals and tourists alike visit. With Socotra being in the middle of the sea, cheap and delicious seafood can be found here. The wait-staff includes a young boy who sprints from one table to another, up and down the restaurant steps, to the kitchen and back. Try not to get run over by him.

If you're not spending your nights in a tent on the beach or in the mountains, the Taj Sheba Hotel in Hadibu on Socotra island is the best hotel option. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 14, 2008

Taj Sheba Hotel
Ali Abdolmoghni Street
Sanaa, Yemen
967-1-272372

Cheer!
Flag

IgoUgo

Socotra Journals

Upload Photos