2006 Trip Pt 2 - WY - Devil's Tower to Yellowstone

An August 2006 trip to Yellowstone National Park by creekland Best of IgoUgo

The Lone SentinelMore Photos

Wyoming - where the buffalo roam and the deer and the antelope really DO play - the least populated state in our nation - extremely rural, extremely beautiful - and the second part of this 2 month road trip. We went from Devil's Tower to Yellowstone on this trip.

  • 12 reviews
  • 2 stories/tips
  • 52 photos

Devil's TowerBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Devil's Tower National Monument"

The Lone Sentinel
Ok, I'll admit it. I had the wrong "color" and texture in my penciled in thoughts of Devil's Tower - so it was really good that we went there to correct my "picture."

I had imagined Devil's Tower to be red - similar to the monuments in Monument Valley (Utah) - I'm not quite sure why I thought that... but it's wrong. Devil's Tower is gray - AND it's not "one piece" as those other towers are. It's actually broken into unusual vertical columns each generally having 5 or 6 sides. It's cooled magma that hardened into these columns while cooling underground - while all the rest of the land surrounding it was not (that's sedimentary rock). Beyond that, even scientists disagree on exactly what it was... making for a neat mystery still unanswered (there are theories).

It's not a long drive out of the way from Rapid City to Yellowstone, so there's no (real) reason to bypass it. You can see the tower easily from the road, so if you're on a tight budget, that could suffice, but I don't recommend it and folks that have done that haven't been nearly as impressed with it. If you have the National Park pass getting in is free - without it, there's a per car charge. The view from up close is well worth the fee. Why come all this way and NOT see it up close?

On your way up (or down) take a break from looking at the tower to enjoy the Prairie Dog town - just don't be like one family that was letting their kids go out and chase, harass, and kick in their holes (folks like that lose ALL respect from us). Fortunately, a ranger had been informed of their activities and put an end to it - hopefully with a decent fine.

Once you get to the top you'll find a Visitor's Center that is informative - along with a small gift shop and those all-important restrooms. It's a short walk to the base of the tower - and look closely to see if there are climbers - seeing them gives the best perspective of the height of the tower (almost 1300 feet). Anyone is free to climb on the large boulders at the base of the tower (kids love them), but if you're looking to really climb - check with organizations for more info. Climbers are allowed on three sides. The fourth side was reserved for nesting falcons and other birds.

They have 3 main hikes here - and almost everyone, present company included - does the Tower Trail (see journal entry).

There's no food here - or gas - and the only lodging is a basic campground. There are a couple small restaurants outside the park - as well as a handful of climbing outfits. Otherwise, you're in rural Wyoming. You'll see more deer and antelope than people. To me, that's part of the beauty of Wyoming...

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by creekland on October 8, 2006

Devil's Tower
P.O. Box 10 Devils Tower, Wyoming 82714
(307) 467-5283

Devil's TowerBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Tower Trail - (Devil's Tower)"

From the ground up!
Tower Trail is a 1.3 mile hike (mostly loop) around the base of Devil's Tower. It's a wonderful stretch break - and a great chance to get a true "feel" for the size of the tower both by seeing some of these huge columns where they fell and giving you the best chance of locating climbers for perspective on height. Part of it is shaded among pines (look at the trees - see eaten off bark - we were told that was from porcupines!). The other part gives you glimpses of all sides of Devil's Tower. On three of the four sides you might be fortunate enough to see climbers.

This trail is not handicap accessible and it has both some minor elevation change - and with that - natural "steps" to be negotiated. All that and I still listed it as a beginner hike because I DO feel it's a beginner HIKE. It's not a stroll on a boardwalk, and some older (or out of shape) folks might want to take breaks here and there. We called those excuses to look for and/or watch climbers. It's not at all a dangerous hike - unless you run into someone/something - or miss your step - while gazing up at the Tower. Some younger children we saw were bored towards the end. Our "mountain goats" (that would be our hiking nickname for our boys), loved it and probably could have lapped us - while still spotting climbers and taking opportunities to climb boulders and walk on fallen trees in places.

There's a section of this hike where you can see fallen columns - giving your mind more reason to marvel at the bravery(?) of the climbers out there... as well as a new sense of awe at the size of what you are looking at. Take some time to see if you can see where the pieces came from... We had fun wondering what we'd do if we saw one falling... (which direction to go, etc).

There's also a section where they have "scopes" trying to point out remnants of an old wooden ladder that used to be used for climbing. We spotted the ladder, but not really using the scopes (other than a general direction). Personal binoculars were better. Neither of these are viewable without doing the hike.

As with all hikes, take water, and if doing this one in the middle of the day during the summer, expect heat. We did it a little more towards late afternoon and it was perfect timing for weather and seeing climbers. Afterwards it was a fairly easy drive to Gillette to spend the night (nearest spot heading west for motel options). Our trip had us camping the next 4 nights at Yellowstone, so we wanted a decent shower...

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by creekland on October 8, 2006

Devil's Tower
P.O. Box 10 Devils Tower, Wyoming 82714
(307) 467-5283

Petrified Tree
You're in a place with geysers, paint pots, incredibly colored thermal pools, hot springs, lakes, hiking trails, waterfalls, woods, mountains, valleys, and critters of all sizes. Welcome to Yellowstone National Park - the world's first National Park - and what a park it is. It's huge and truly one of a kind.

You've driven (or flown) for miles to get here and seen some of the most rural areas the US has, yet, despite its ruralness, this park is such a gem that it always has a crowd in summer and fall. So many people want to see it - after seeing it yourself, you can't blame them. The sights are simply incomparable.

Note, it's also mostly about 7500 feet in elevation, so expect a chill at night - even in the dead of summer, yet it's very hot during the day. Prepare for 30's to 90's.

So, where to start? To best see Yellowstone, first, do some research. Seeing it all in one or two days isn't going to happen, so a minimum of a couple nights lodging is recommended. We stayed 4 nights and could have used at least one more. Decide if you want to camp or stay in a lodge/cabin - you'll most likely need reservations well in advance. (Some camping is first come, first served, but you still generally need to get there early.)

If you're on time constraints, you'll have to decide what's most important to you to see. Simply driving from one end of the park to the other will take you 2-3 hours (one way) - without stopping - and if you don't stop, did you see anything? Some stopping (for critter jams) may be required. "Critters" can be anything from buffalo/bison, elk, bears, moose, or anything else others consider worth stopping for.

For quick advice, for thermal features, the south western part of the park is best - for critter watching, the mid-eastern tends to be better (though critters can be seen anywhere, so keep your camera ready!) Waterfalls are (mostly) in the east/northeast. Mountains are everywhere as are hikes.

To allow some space to actually write, all of our Yellowstone experiences are in separate journal entries. This is mainly an overview to "warn" you not to underestimate the time for this park - especially if you want to hike. (This is our second time there after underestimating it the first time...) There are more geysers than Old Faithful, so even that's not a "short stop just to see it" for most folks. The pools are so incredibly beautiful that they too take longer than most anticipate. Then there's the animals and "critter watching" - a whole fun aspect in itself. Read on to see what might interest you!

There's food, gas, and lodging in this park, but expect to pay extra for all of the above... though the cost for camp sites was quite reasonable.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by creekland on October 8, 2006

Yellowstone National Park
P.O. Box 168 Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming 82190
(307) 344-7381

Canyon CampgroundsBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Canyon Campground (Yellowstone NP)"

Canyon Campground was our choice for our first two nights lodging in Yellowstone. At that point, we were mainly looking for one of the central campgrounds that took reservations so we could arrive at any time of the day. It sufficed just fine.

They have 272 sites which can all be reserved - and often they all are. Each night we were there they were totally booked. However, the sites were reasonably private (in woods) and we were fortunate enough to have quiet neighbors - well, except for one early morning when some (probably drunk) idiot (in another loop) opted to start singing at the top of his lungs around 2:30am... His neighbors were understandably thrilled - but got him to stop eventually. I can't blame the campground on that one.

The location of Canyon is quite nice. It's on the Eastern side of Yellowstone - making it a super easy drive to the Hayden Valley to look at the big critters (buffalo, elk, etc). If you're there before August, you can also (supposedly) see bears quite easily by heading north from Canyon. In August, bears are harder to see as they move more towards berries. Waterfalls and their hikes are an easy drive too. You're farthest from Mammoth Hot Springs and West Thumb Geyser Basin.

One big hint about camping in Yellowstone - be prepared for 30 degree temperatures - even in August. The elevation is high - 8000 feet for Canyon. There was frost on a couple of our mornings... I'm glad we had mattress pads and cold weather sleeping bags! We did try out the showers - they're not metered, they cost a flat rate of $3.75 making them one of the priciest showers we paid for - but considering it's cold in Yellowstone overnight, they felt really good. If you need them, they also have coin laundry and a general store for supplies. All in all, I'd stay in Canyon again - though read on for my review of Norris as we enjoyed staying there too.

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by creekland on October 10, 2006

Canyon Campgrounds
East central - Yellowstone National Park Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming
307-344-7311

Norris CampgroundBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Norris Campground (Yellowstone NP)"

Norris Campground
Not being crowd or noise lovers, we planned in advance to switch to one of the first come, first serve campgrounds for our second 2 nights, and Norris was our campground of choice, still basing it on location (central) and atmosphere (nice meadow to sometimes see animals). We were quite pleased with it.

Norris Campground has 116 sites and is sometimes totally booked, but other times not. To get some of the best sites, you need to arrive fairly early, though, as they go quickly. It's a self check-in. You need to make sure folks already there are leaving (as they have first option to stay), then fill out your slip to stay, leaving something there to let others know the spot is taken.

The only "facilities" at Norris are flush toilets (no store, showers, etc,), meaning this is not as popular of a spot with "casual" campers (and many families), leaving those of us who like more peaceful and quiet situations pleasantly pleased. It's not a sure bet to get quiet, but you certainly have better odds. It's still at 7,500 feet elevation, so still expect frigid overnights (30's plus--we had frost), even in August. Days were still hot.

For animals, we saw buffalo/bison and elk, and got to hear coyotes at night. To us, that's not noise; that's nature's free music. Once, we also heard an elk bugling. I'm sure that as you get more towards September, you might hear that a lot!

At the entrance to Norris Campground there's a small ranger museum that's interesting to prowl around in for 30 minutes or so, detailing the history of the park ranger, and it's a short drive to Norris Geyser Basin, which can take 2 to 3 hours (or more) to hike around and see. Then you're centrally located to either go south and see Old Faithful, and the MANY other thermal features in that direction, or head north and see Mammoth Hot Springs. We used half a day seeing Norris Basin and going back "critter hunting/watching," and one whole day heading south seeing thermal features - leaving us the day we left to head to the north seeing those site and Mammoth Hot Springs. It worked well for us.

If we had it to do over again, I think we'd have picked Norris for 3 nights and Canyon for just one... We enjoy peace and quiet more than amenities, and hearing the coyotes was a nice treat.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by creekland on October 10, 2006

Norris Campground
Mammoth-Norris Road Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Old FaithfulBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Old Faithful and Upper Geyser Basin"

Old Faithful
Old Faithful - the #1 attraction in Yellowstone - and the #1 thing you should NOT miss. Not just because it's Old Faithful, but because the whole area is literally filled with geysers, fumeroles (holes venting steam), and hot springs/thermal pools. It's gorgeous, it's amazing, and not a thing of it is man-made (except the boardwalk for safe access).

Old Faithful is located in the Upper Geyser Basin in the south-western section of the park. The first thing you should know is you aren't the only one trying to see this area... so is half the world, so be prepared for crowds... There's a huge parking lot - often mostly filled - a huge gift shop (make that two gift shops) - that are filled when Old Faithful's not going off - and two lodges, various restaurants, etc. There's also a Visitor Center. Start there as they will tell you when 5 different geysers (the predicted ones) are expected to go off (give or take a few hours) - and can answer questions, etc. There's also a couple of free movies to watch about the park.

Old Faithful - the most predictable large geyser, but not tallest or most active of all geysers, goes off every 90 minutes or so for a duration of 2-5 minutes. It's tallest shortly after the start - tending to reach heights of 100 - 180 feet - pending the individual eruption and wind, etc. They have wooden benches to sit on while awaiting an eruption. See it, then, have water, comfortable shoes (of any sort - it's all boardwalked or paved) and set out to see nature at some of her finest.

The common misconception is that Old Faithful is by itself - it's not - there are several geysers that you might chance to see going off. You can hike a good 2+ miles (one way) seeing various thermal features if you so choose. We did... and were fortunate enough to see Old Faithful, Grand, and Lion all going off at roughly the same time - as well as many others along the way, some going off, some bubbling and gurgling. The farther out you go, the less people you tend to come across.

Many people think they'll spend an hour or two here - and end up spending the day - or wishing they had more time. Plan accordingly! If you plan to spend money on a lodge, these are a couple I'd consider for the prime access to these thermal features!

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by creekland on October 10, 2006

Old Faithful
Yellowstone National Park Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming 82190
(307) 344-7381

Upper Geyser BasinBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Hiking Upper Geyser Basin"

Chromatic Pool
Everyone comes to Yellowstone with seeing Old Faithful in mind, and many people do just that. But don't just see Old Faithful—there are many, many, more geysers and thermal features to see here, the highest concentration in the world, and all on a beginner-level hike (mostly boardwalked or paved). You'd been meaning to exercise some on this trip anyway, right? There is a little elevation change, but it's minimal, most occurring right at the beginning.

Now, with hikes, many folks figure on 2 miles per hour, so they'd allow 2 hours to walk this whole thing (less for less). Don't. It won't happen, or if it does, then did you really SEE anything here? Nope, on this trip you're going to want to stop and see the features on the way (no roses, but features well worth taking your time to see). Sometimes you're going to look up and see a geyser going off. Take time and enjoy watching it, even if it's at a distance! (You'll stop and watch it instinctively anyway, so just be sure you allowed yourself TIME to do that!) Most geysers are not predictable, so consider yourself fortunate if you saw it. Some go off every 45 minutes or so, so you'll see it at some point on your hike. And, they are different... it's not a "seen one, seen them all" type of thing.

Anyway, some of our favorites along this hike (besides Old Faithful) were Grand (taller than Old Faithful), Castle (impressive formation and neat to see go off!), Grotto (we got sprayed!), Spasmotic (fits its name), Lion (noise), and even Giant, though that one HAD to wait till the wee morning hours to go off INSTEAD of while we were there (sigh). Still, it was fun hoping and listening to it. Maybe next time...

To keep your visual senses on "high" between geysers are some of the beautiful multicolored pools—see Chromatic and Doublet, not to mention Morning Glory, Gem, and Mirror. Do be sure to keep young kids on the boardwalk. Every now and then, someone gets hurt (so the signs say).

If you can't hike all the way (well, even if you can), be sure to stop at West Thumb Geyser Basin (farther south) and Prismatic Spring (north) to see more awesome pools, and drive on Firehole Lake Drive for some more awesome thermal sights.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by creekland on October 10, 2006

Upper Geyser Basin
Yellowstone National Park Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

West ThumbBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "West Thumb Geyser Basin"

Seismograph and Bluebell Pools
Several gorgeous "swimming-pool-like" hot springs - the type that make you repeat to yourself, "No, you can't jump in there..." while the "other" side of your brain asks, "and why not?"... all with an ideal lake backdrop - not to mention animals that might walk your way. Sound good? Then a stop at West Thumb Geyser Basin might be for you.

West Thumb is near the southern entrance to Yellowstone - and it's a stop that many folks skip in trying to see Yellowstone in a day. To be truthful, if you can only stop at one, pick the Upper Geyser Basin (with Old Faithful), but if you have time, add in West Thumb, Firehole Drive, and Prismatic Spring. For West Thumb, the glory is not in the Geysers - many have stopped erupting (regularly), but the beauty in both the pools and the lake are incredible - pretty much unmatched elsewhere in the park if you catch it at the right time (when many pools are turquoise).

Back in 2004 (our first trip to Yellowstone) this was our first stop. We saw pool after pool of unmatched blue beauty - giving us an awesome first taste of the park. We're also mostly positive we were lucky enough to see Twin Geysers erupting - an event the brochure says hasn't happened recently - BUT we caught it on film (not digital). Since we were unaware of the significance, I'm not willing to say 100% that it was this geyser, but it was erupting (twice) - and it was high - and there aren't many other options at this basin - esp in that area... We feel honored.

On this trip, not so many of the pools were blue (some were) but we got more of a taste of the many colors the pools can be (based on their current temp). Blue is still my favorite, but the variety was nice to see too.

Be sure to see Fishing Cone - out in Yellowstone Lake - that's a novelty geyser where folks used to be able to cook a fish right on the line. They'd catch it on one side, turn around, and cook it on the other by dipping it in this cone.

As a bonus on this last trip, we had an elk wander his way into our path - crossing the boardwalk not far away from us at all. He was after the minerals near one of the pots. The rest of us need to stay on the boardwalk...

As hikes go, this one is super easy - all boardwalked. It's 1/2 mile around the outside and 1/4 mile around the inside - do both - there's different sights - and all worth seeing... Enjoy!

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by creekland on October 13, 2006

West Thumb
Yellowstone National Park Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming 82190
(307) 344-7381

Grand Prismatic SpringBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "The Grand Prismatic Spring (Midway Geyser Basin)"

Turquoise Pool
Don't, don't, DON'T miss this stop, even if you're in a hurry. This has to be one of the (or maybe THE) prettiest pools/springs in all of Yellowstone. As a bonus, at this stop you also can easily see Excelsior Geyser, Turquoise Pool, and Opal Pool on a boardwalked half-mile trail, mostly loop, accessible to all. It may be tempting to want to "drive on" after seeing Old Faithful (or on your way there), but you're missing a true gem if you do.

Grand Prismatic Spring is about 160 feet deep and roughly 250x380 feet in size. It's the largest in Yellowstone and the third largest in the world (meaning I'd REALLY like to see the other two in New Zealand). The colors are always astounding, vivid turquoise blue in the center and gradually changing to lighter blue, green, and even oranges or reds towards the edges. People can, and do, stand there and gaze at the sheer beauty in awe. It's difficult to leave.

Excelsior Geyser is also huge, roughly 275x325 feet, and always bathed in steam from the hot temps—and always blue. There's a boardwalk on different sides, so pick the one upwind to see it better (due to steam flowing downwind). They say it used to be the biggest geyser till it mainly stopped erupting back in the late 1800s. It CAN erupt again (it did in 1985), though not as high as before, so we were hopeful but not terribly disappointed, as the sheer beauty of both is a pleasure to our senses that's indescribable. If you get your "highs" from traveling (as we do), this one is hard to beat.

Turquoise Pool and Opal Pool are smaller, but worth a look as you walk around. Their beauty mainly gets dwarfed by their nearby cousins.

There is some elevation change to get up to these springs, but it's not much, and it's totally worth it for everyone. Even young kids were remarking on the colors and sizes, perhaps for less of an attention span than adults, but nonetheless, they took notice. Expect crowds here, but not nearly as many people as at Old Faithful. For those who choose to skip it, it truly is their loss. I'm not advocating stopping here INSTEAD of Old Faithful... I'm saying it's worth it for both. Firehole Lake Drive and West Thumb were our other "favorites" for thermal features.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by creekland on October 13, 2006

Grand Prismatic Spring
Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Firehole Lake DriveBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Firehole Spring
Want to see a couple of neat geysers, hot springs, and a hot lake from the comfort of your car (or with minimal walking)? Or are you simply enjoying the many thermal features Yellowstone has to offer? Then Firehole Lake Drive is for you. (Not to be confused with Firehole Canyon Drive - which is pretty and runs along the Firehole River including it's cascading falls.)

Firehole Lake Drive is a simple, 2-mile, one way road located in the south-western section of Yellowstone between Midway and Lower Geyser Basins. Drive it and you may find surprises waiting for you... pleasant, visual surprises - and all coming one right after the other - with the added benefit (for some) of no hike or elevation change required to see them at their best.

Surprise Pool is one of those deep blue, gorgeous pools found right at the beginning of the drive. A little further down, some might be fortunate enough to see Great Fountain Geyser erupting (we weren't, but the "base" for it is still impressive).

Continuing on, is a geyser that is incredibly unique in its look - and a reason alone to make this 2 mile detour - White Dome Geyser. We DID get to see that one erupt - it looked picture perfect! You'll also instantly know why it's named "White Dome..." Intervals between eruptions here are generally only 15-30 minutes, so it is worth a wait if you aren't fortunate enough to see it right as you drive up as we were.

Another short drive and you're at Pink Cone Geyser - another we saw erupting... and another appropriately named... Near the end of the drive the road goes between Hot Lake and Firehole Lake. You can stop here (and at all those other spots)... as there are boardwalked short trails allowing you to see the lakes better - and see a "hot cascade" that flows into Hot Lake. Colors vary.

This drive doesn't take long - most of the time is spent looking at the features - and some of these features - esp White Dome Geyser just aren't duplicated elsewhere. You could drive on by on the main road missing it all, but why would you? You've lost little time by taking this 2 mile detour - well, unless you get "hooked" watching a geyser erupt! Besides - didn't you come to Yellowstone to see such things?

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by creekland on October 13, 2006

Firehole Lake Drive
Yellowstone National Park Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming 82190
(307) 344-7381

Norris Geyser BasinBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Hiking Norris Geyser Basin"

Norris Geyser Basin
Changing Yellowstone - a volcano rumbling, mumbling, shifting, and occasionally hissing to let off steam. Totally unpredictable, sometimes with great beauty, and often showing the harshness to the surrounding plants and terrain, this is Norris Geyser Basin... enter at your own risk (though the risk is probably minimal, it IS there).

Norris is the spot where, if this volcano totally comes to life again, you're at ground zero (so scientists expect). This place is filled with thermal features, but unlike others, they aren't predictable. Springs and geysers can dry up—or open—overnight. The "danger" part is caused by this: an unexpected geyser eruption in an area that used to mainly be a boiling pot CAN be an issue, but it is rare (happened with Porkchop Geyser in 1989). Boardwalks have been "redone" here at times due to thermal changes (boardwalks can get too hot and burning/melting visitor's shoes).

Yellowstone's current tallest geyser is here (Steamboat), but if you see it, you're incredibly lucky, as it doesn't erupt often and certainly isn't predictable. Other main sites are mainly of boiling pots and geysers that, again, aren't predictable. It's the change and the "hot spot" you go to see for the most part.

There are two hikes here: the Back Basin Trail is 1 1/2 miles (mostly loop) and has a bit of elevation change. The Porcelain Basin is 3/4ths mile (mostly loop), and we didn't make it on Porcelain due to time constraints (sorry, though we DID need a reason to return).

The Back Basin is filled with thermal features interspersed with hiking (complete with a bit of elevation change in steps and boardwalk, perhaps too much elevation change for some folks to handle easily). What you see is varied, but generally not the same awe-inspiring beauty we found in other places (hard to see geysers erupting and the pools, in the Back Basin at least, are generally not as pretty with a bit of walking in between them), so this is a stop I'll mainly recommend if you feel lucky (to see Steamboat) or if you have time and want to see a bit more than a day trip allows. It IS neat to see the "hot spot," so to speak, and there are features here (like Minute Geyser) that have been damaged by vandals in the older days (sigh). Minute Geyser used to erupt every minute, and now it doesn't, due to being clogged by "stuff" people threw in wanting to see it be thrust back out.

There's a small museum and bookstore here, both located between the two hikes, and of course, they have those all-important restrooms.

I definitely don't mean to "minimize" Norris, and we do need to return to check out the Porcelain Basin, but if you're working against time, in our opinion, Norris isn't as good of a first choice as the Upper Geyser Basin.

  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by creekland on October 13, 2006

Norris Geyser Basin
Yellowstone National Park Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Mammoth Hot SpringsBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Upper Terraces - Mammoth Hot Springs"

Roaring Mtn., stop, look, & listen!
Pure white sculpture that's painted with colors of vivid yellows, oranges, and pinks. A museum? Well, yes, it's nature's museum (and ongoing art studio) that's found in the northwestern section of Yellowstone known as Mammoth Hot Springs. It's gorgeous, it's "different," and it's easily accessible by car making it a place that shouldn't be missed by anyone.

We saw Mammoth on our way out of Yellowstone, driving north from Norris. The drive itself is a spectacular view of mountains, cliffs, and valleys, including Roaring Mountain (multitudes of hissing fumeroles), Obsidian Cliff (the site of origin of many ancient arrowheads), and Yellowstone's "Golden Gate" (an incredible view). Prior to reaching the village itself, you'll see a sign to Upper Terrace area. This is what you want for some of the most incredible views of nature's sculpture.

From the Upper Terrace area, you can see a great view of Mammoth (the village), the Lower Terrace area (all of which can be hiked albeit with quite a bit of elevation change), and best of all, a one-way drive that is spectacular. Note, though, this one way drive can NOT accommodate RVs or trailers due to tight twists and turns.

The "white" you see is a substance called "Travertine," a calcium carbonate deposit left as the hot water from the springs evaporate. The colors you see are bacteria, thriving in their worlds. Different colors come from different temperatures. They all create a wonderful canvas - no, not canvas, but sculpture, as it's in awesome 3D - natural terraces and mounds. Springs open and dry up on nature's whim, making this an ongoing and changing art project. The Upper Terrace Loop Drive mentioned above takes you on a tour, twisting and turning between formations, each of them a feast for your eyes. There are some pull outs where you can get out and look closer—and for great pictures.

We did take a quick hike to Canary Spring, a brilliant yellow in spots, as its name implies. There were more hikes that could be explored (including the whole lower terrace) if we had had more time. All hikes in the terraces are boardwalked and elevation change comes in the form of steps (in some places, ramps for limited handicap accessibility to a couple spots).

In Mammoth Hot Springs itself (farther north), you can find gas, food, lodging, a campground, a post office, and a medical clinic. I highly recommended the visitor center, offering films and exhibits of the park's history and critters. (The stuffed animal exhibit is superb. Here's your chance to see some of those really reclusive critters up close...) Historic Fort Yellowstone is located here, as is the park's headquarters.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by creekland on October 19, 2006

Mammoth Hot Springs
Yellowstone National Park Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming 82190
(307) 344-7381

Buffalo Jam!
"Oh give me a home, where the buffalo roam, and the deer and the antelope play..." Wyoming is that place (or could be anyway) and Yellowstone National Park is one of the prime spots to see not only those, but also elk, coyotes, bear, wolves, and birds of all shapes and sizes... Besides seeing the thermal features (Old Faithful, etc), seeing the large animals most of us so rarely see at home is one of the biggest highlights of this park. Here are a couple tips we've found by both experience and asking some of the rangers.

Tip #1: Critters can be seen anywhere at anytime, so ALWAYS have your camera ready. Some of the best shots are candid, unexpected, sights.

Tip #2: Critter "hunting" is best done in the early morning or later afternoon/early evening as that's when the animals are most active. We opted to go critter hunting each evening we were there - and were never disappointed.

Tip #3: These critters are WILD and can be DANGEROUS - and if you're dumb and get too close so they hurt you, they get killed for it. Please, give them their space. This isn't a zoo or Disney World. You're in their turf - enjoy them from a respectable distance. Buffalo are bigger, faster, and can and do hurt tourists.

Now, for specific locations, etc to "hunt." (Where you have your best odds to see certain types for your advanced planning purposes.)

For buffalo/bison, check out the Hayden Valley just north of Sulfur Caldron or the Pelican Valley just east of Fishing Bridge - esp in the later afternoon if you'd like the possibility of being in a "buffalo jam" (when the buffalo are on the road requiring traffic to stop). At other times they can be seen in the fields grazing or sleeping. In the Hayden Valley they can often be seen crossing the river (swimming) - which alone - is a treat for many of us. There are also a couple near the thermal features in the western sections of the park, but the larger herds are in the eastern areas.

Elk are all over - they can be seen in the eastern valleys, but are more often up close near the road or on some of the hikes in the western section of the park. At times there will be "elk jams" but those aren't as often from elk on the roads as they are from people stopped admiring the huge racks on the bulls.

Coyotes are all over too - we saw ours between Norris and Old Faithful hunting in the fields - you had to look carefully for motion, so drive slowly (or stop at the pullouts and look).

Yellowstone has wolves too - and they are moving out to more areas so check with the visitor's centers to see where you might see them. They're still pretty reclusive. People were stopped at one of the overlooks in the Hayden Valley looking for them in the evenings when we were there, but one needed some powerful binoculars to see them. Look closer in the water close to you there and you can often see a beaver and sometimes pelicans. Beware when you take pictures of a "doglike" critter. Some folks had pictures of coyotes they were calling wolves... If in doubt, ask a ranger.

Bears... our nemesis here... we went looking for them - they are most often found in the northeast between Canyon and around Tower-Roosevelt - or at Fishing Bridge Campground - but we always came up empty this trip. The rangers told us in August the bears like to go farther in the back-country hunting the ripe berries. He suggested coming in July to have better odds. On our trip 2 years ago we did see one down in Grand Teton National Park - eating berries on a hill next to the road. Still, you could get lucky. If you see cars pulled off looking at something, stop and see what it is. Many times that's how bears are spotted - one family saw it cross the road, the rest saw their car stopped.

We hunted near Yellowstone Lake for moose, but never saw any. A ranger suggested the best tip for seeing moose was to go to Grand Teton National Park. We did see them there two years ago.

Birds of all shapes and sizes can be found anywhere - esp near water. We saw pelicans, geese, storks, cranes, herons, trumpeter swans, woodpeckers, osprey, and various assorted songbirds. Then there's the ravens... beware when camping, they're watching you and they like people food and aren't afraid to raid yours if you take your eyes off it.

Beach Time!
Since we love traveling, and are on a limited budget, it didn't take us long to figure out by tent camping you save a LOT of money, thus I was willing to give it a try. I never figured I'd enjoy it as much as I do...

Tent camping is one of our favorite activities. To us, there's simply nothing better than waking up in the morning in a fantastic "nature" setting and enjoying being one with it. Our tent is nicknamed "The Lodge" and is a big part of our memories. Another "plus" is that our minivan can go practically anywhere. RV's can occasionally limit your experiences due to roads not accommodating them - especially in some National Parks. Our van gets better gas mileage too.

If you want to give it a try, here are some tips to help you get started.

Tip #1: Don't let age stop you. Tent campers come in all ages. This was my mom's first time ever tent camping. You'll see everyone from young kids to retirees, male, female, families, and friend groups.

Tip #2: The vast majority of tent campers like it QUIET so they can enjoy nature. If you're one of those that plans to go out and have a loud get together, please stop reading these tips and head back to motels...you'll save a lot of us some grief. Loud folks (loud radios, talking, etc) are the worst part of tent camping. Those folks are talked about by everyone else—(at the bathhouse, etc) and NOT in a favorable manner. PLEASE do not bring a bunch of kids out tent camping without also teaching them to be quiet (and enforcing it).

Tip #3: Passed those? Then you'll need equipment. Cost generally = quality, but you don't always need the "best." I highly suggest doing some research before purchasing.

Tip #3a: Tents never truly sleep the max number listed - unless you like sleeping in a sardine can. Our tent supposedly sleeps 6, and works well for a family of 5. We'd never allow 6 in there. Two doors are also better than one (our tent has 3). We personally prefer fiberglass poles to aluminum - and we prefer a plain old tarp for a ground sheet over those they sell that attract every piece of dust out there. Newer styles can be set up easily - older styles tend to be clumsy and heavy. You want a rain shield and venting up top - not a totally closed tent (unless you LIKE steamy).

Tip #3b: Sleeping bags are rated for temperature. If you buy a low temp one and only tent camp at 65 or higher, you'll be sweating...If you buy a 40 degree rating and camp at Yellowstone (where it drops in the 30's), you'll be frigid. We like the 25 degree bags for our camping, but when it's warm, we leave them unzipped.

There are "mummy" styles (narrower at the feet) and "rectangular." Mummies will keep you warmer and tend to be smaller to pack, BUT many folks (including us) prefer our leg space, so prefer rectangular.

Tip #3c: Mattress pads are essential - but not those big, bulky, "blow them up" types that often sprout leaks at inopportune moments. Nope - never liked those. What we've found that is superb is Thermarest's Prolite 4 - regular sized. It's pricey - even on e-bay ($80 or so) - but it's worth its weight in gold. It rolls up tightly for easy packing, self-inflates, can be adjusted for very soft or very firm, keeps you warmer, and totally eliminates the feel of any ground "junk" you couldn't clear under your tent. Your tenting experience without a pad will be 100% different than with one (at least the sleeping part!).

Tip #3d: Camp cookware is essential if you're cooking. Spend the money for quality, it's worth it. The Internet often gives you the most options. Figure out what you'll be cooking and buy accordingly.

Tip #3e: It's worth it to buy paper plates, etc, as they're less time consuming than doing dishes.

Tip #3f: We keep two plastic storage boxes for camping one each for food and non-food items. By keeping things in boxes it makes packing very easy.

Tip #4: Campgrounds...There are two main types - public and private. Public means publicly owned and can be city, state, or federally owned. These are almost always cheaper, but don't always have the amenities some folks like. Locate these on maps by the little "tent" symbol. Private means privately owned and, while generally being more expensive, they often do have amenities like pools, etc. These are not on maps. To find them, some good books (for both) are Woodall's and AAA Camp Books (similar to their motel guides).

Tip #4b: Choose your campground by what you like. Remember how campers come from all ages and walks of life? Their "likes" in camping do too. Do you want to swim and be a little bit louder? Look private. Do you want more peace and quiet and "back to nature?" Then go public - with as few amenities as you can live with. A good rule of thumb is the less amenities, the less noise.

Tip #5: National Park Campgrounds don't have pools (though some parks have water areas that can be enjoyed by all). Some do not have flush toilets (they'll have pit toilets). Be sure to check carefully when planning. If there are showers, it'll cost to use them - have quarters. Private campgrounds usually include free showers - though with the higher cost to stay, you've paid for them anyway.

Tip #6: At some campgrounds you'll need reservations - to get the best spots, make those reservations early - esp if you want a spot with a view. Best spots are relative. Some prefer near the bathhouse in the center of loops. This is good for convenience, but not privacy. Others don't mind the walk to the bathhouse, so opt for far away on an edge. This gives you the most privacy. Consider your likes.

Tip #6b: Other campgrounds are first come, first served. This means you pick a spot when you get there. Sometimes these are the most popular campgrounds (like Jenny Lake in Grand Teton NP), so you still need to get there early (before 8am for Jenny Lake). Other times arriving early afternoon - or even evening - is ok. Research the specific campground to judge. To get these spots, when you get there, look for a large sign. This will have a map and registration envelopes below. Grab an envelope, read the directions, and go off to see what's available. Then return and put your $$, etc in the slot for it. It's easy - so don't be intimidated even if you're new.

Tip #7: Campers don't care what you wear. Jammies or sweats, etc to the bathhouse is just fine - and expected - of all ages. Don't buy designer wear - or worry about make-up, etc. There's also no "rules" on when, what, or how you cook/eat. Sometimes we do full meals and other times we forage poptarts (or equivalent). It depends on our mood and what we want to do/did that day. Campground stores are overly expensive, so it's best if you bring food in from grocery stores elsewhere.

Tip #8: Sometimes you can have fun conversations with your neighbors, but remember, many people are camping to "get away" so don't feel offended if folks aren't in the talkative mode. Look for cues.

Tip #9: Theft/crime is generally rare in campgrounds. I think campers have to be some of the most honest folks out there - and that's a big point we love. Still, don't leave valuables in plain sight and we don't hike alone. Except for our laptop, which we take with us hiking at times, we don't even bring anything valuable.

Tip #10: Campgrounds have different rules regarding many things (like fires, etc), so always read over the rules where you are. Some allow you to collect dead wood, others don't.

And lastly, give it a chance... unless, of course, you're one of those loud inconsiderate types. My Mom was REALLY tentative about camping with us - and got her start in COLD (at night) Yellowstone. By the end of the trip she was talking about possible future camping trips - some even with her and friends instead of just with us weird folks! :) It's addictive - and fun.

Oh yes, as a final PS... feel free to stay in a motel for a night or two on long travel trips - most of us do - and we're also always flexible to give up camping for a motel if rain is lurking...

About the Writer

creekland
creekland
East Berlin, Pennsylvania

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