Buenos Aires Journals

Paris of the Pampas: Buenos Aires, Part I

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An October 2005 trip to Buenos Aires by KJP

La Recoleta Cemetery Photo, Buenos Aires, Argentina More Photos
Quote: A sprawling metropolis situated between the vast, coffee-colored Rio de la Plata and the grassy pampas, Argentina’s largest city offers European flavor in the middle of South America.

Paris of the Pampas: Buenos Aires, Part I

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Overview

A common sight Photo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Quote:
Fiscal mismanagement and runaway borrowing by Argentina’s government in the mid-1990s culminated in one of the swiftest economic collapses in history. In December 2001, Argentina defaulted on a crushing billion debt payment. The Argentine peso, pegged at a 1:1 ratio with the U.S. dollar for a decade, was devalued to stem the mounting flight of deposits, and banks were shuttered to halt further runs on the currency. By the time they reopened, Argentina’s president quit and fled by helicopter, its economy minister resigned, and the peso had plunged to a third of its former value. For the next few weeks, the country’s presidency became a revolving door of appointments and resignations.Adding i...Read More

La Recoleta Cemetery

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Attraction | "Cementerio de la Recoleta"

La Recoleta Cemetery Photo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Quote:
Los porteños generally live with their parents much longer than those of us from the States. Whether the difference is purely a cultural one, an indicator of the economic hard times that have befallen Argentina in recent years, or both, many Argentineans live at home into their late twenties or beyond. Living with family members may provide a much-needed financial buffer, but few would argue it also results in an appalling lack of privacy. Consequently, Buenos Aires has no shortage of "hotels" that cater to those needing an hour or two for the odd clandestine rendezvous.Few foreigners who visit Buenos Aires are aware the aforementioned establishments operate right under their collec...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on February 23, 2006

La Recoleta Cemetery
Junín 1790 Recoleta District
Buenos Aires, Argentina 1116
+54 (11) 4804 7040

Ateneo Grand Splendid

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Attraction | "El Ateneo Bookstore"

Ateneo Grand Splendid Photo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Quote:
El Ateneo is reputedly one of the best bookstores in the city, and claims to be the largest of its kind in Latin America. That’s all well and good, but at El Ateneo, the building is what draws customers nearly as much as the merchandise: this is easily one of the most dramatic and beautiful retail spaces in the world. Even more surprising, the store has managed to fly under the radar of most Buenos Aires guidebooks, and barely gets mentioned at all in others.Not to be confused with its sister location on the pedestrian-only shopping street of Avenida Florida in...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on February 23, 2006

Ateneo Grand Splendid
Avenida Santa Fe 1860
Capital Federal, Argentina 1123
+54 (11) 48116104

MNBA - Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

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Attraction | "Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes"

MNBA - Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes Photo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Quote:
The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, as its name implies, houses Argentina’s national collection of fine arts. Occupying a former pumping station that was converted to its current use in 1933, the terra cotta-colored museum perhaps lacks some of the grandeur one might expect of the home of the nation’s artistic treasures.Rather than a comprehensive collection, the museum’s works more closely resemble a patchwork assemblage representing the varied tastes of its benefactors: a Rembrandt here, a small El Greco there, a Jackson Pollack over there. The collection’s strength is 19th and early 20th century art, and consists primarily from Ar...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on February 23, 2006

MNBA - Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
Avenida Del Libertador 1473 Recoleta
Buenos Aires, Argentina 1425
+54 (11) 48030802

Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA) Photo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Quote:
The Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires, more commonly referred to as the MALBA, houses, as its name suggests, 20th century and contemporary art from all over Latin America. Created under the initiative of the industrialist and Argentine collector Eduardo F. Constantini, the museum is the first of its kind in Argentina, and seeks to be the world’s preeminent museum of Latin American art. There are several large exhibition spaces, and the permanent collection of nearly 300 works, includes masterpieces by the likes of Diego Rivera, Mexican painter Frida Kahlo, Argentinean Zul Solar, Chil...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on February 23, 2006

Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA)
Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415
Buenos Aires, Argentina 1426
+54 (11) 43624583

No al pago de la deuda externa Photo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Quote:
Just about every nation on the planet has its share of skeletons in the closet, and Argentina is no exception. During World War II, General Juan Perón made no secret of his pro-fascist views. And as the Third Reich crumbled in the spring of 1945, Perón made hundreds of blank Argentine passports available to ranking Nazis trying to flee Europe. Recently uncovered evidence suggests that Eva Perón’s high profile tour of Europe in June 1947, made under the guise of str...Read More

Buenos Aires for Dummies

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Story/Tip

Palermo Viejo has its act together Photo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Quote:
Planning a trip to Buenos Aires? Here are several tips that will help you once you arrive:1. After you’ve retrieved your bags and made your way through customs and immigration at the airport, walk past those kindly strangers who approach you and ask if you need a cab. Instead, go outside to the taxi stand and locate an officially licensed radio taxi. They’re the ones bearing a white sticker with the red letters IRA on the passenger side of the windshield. If possible, negotiate or at least ask about the fare in advance. There’s a 6 peso toll involved, but if they want more than 75 or 85 pesos total ($25-$28) for a ride into the city, you’re being overcharged.Then be p...Read More