Antiga Confeitaria de Belem is a must if you are in Belem and enjoy tasting foreign goodies. This legendary pastry shop has been serving customers since 1837. Its trademark treat is the Pasteis de Belem (also called pasteis de nata), sort of a cross between custard flan and a tart. In fact, it seems to be strikingly similar to the delicious egg custard tart found at most Chinese dim sum restaurants. The few people who know the heavily guarded secret recipe have to sign a contract that prevents them from passing it around.
You can order your items to take away, or you can choose to eat them at the bustling stand-up counter or one of the tables in the vast string of interior dining rooms. Some may prefer the choice tables in the front room, but I found it to be a bit quieter in one of the back rooms. The atmosphere seems a bit less rushed here, so you may want to linger after a long session of sightseeing.
During the busy times here (and this seems to be all the time), it may be a bit tough to get your order across. You either have to crash your way through to the front counter, or sit in the back and wait for a waiter, when you can point to various items on a printed menu. Considering the crowds here, the service is reasonably fast and courteous.
I ordered a mini-pizza with cheese and ham; it was good, warm, and crispy. The Pasteis de Belem was as good as advertised, a bit chewy, a bit crisp, with a slightly sweet custard filling. The waiter hands you canisters of powdered sugar and cinnamon if you want to enhance the flavor, but they are quite good as they are. These small and flaky delicacies are indeed tasty, and after trying one you will want to order more.