On the way here from the centre of town, you'll pass the Hyatt hotel and at the nearby junction there's a statue to the first Nepalese lady to climb Everest (she died on the way down though); also look out for the fire station just up the road where they still have a British 1930's fire engine in service alongside some more modern vehicles.

There is an entrance fee to the Boudhanath but this is waived at times of major festivals when there are just too many people about. The booth is on the right as you enter. You should walk around in a clockwise direction and you can walk up onto the Stupa through a gate on the left side. Try to get here early in the morning and you'll get wonderful views out across the city and to the mountains beyond.

Surrounding the temple is an array of shops mainly run by Tibetans who have fled their country. For some reason they seem particularly keen to sell knives to tourists - they're of dubious quality and will probably get confiscated by customs if spotted anyway, even in hold baggage. For better souvenirs delve into the back of the shops and have a good look around. Prices near the entrance to the temple site are higher than those at the far side, but get your bargaining hat on. If you're up for a drink or some food, then about three quarters of the way round, look up and you'll see a range of restaurants / café's on the first floor.

A Diary Extract...

The heart of Bodhnath is the stupa, the largest in Nepal, and we turn prayer wheels as we walk, clockwise of course, then enter the gates and climb to the highest level. The view is through thousands of colourful prayer flags to buildings that line the streets of Nepal’s biggest Tibetan enclave and religious epicentre. Children chase each other, dodging monks and tourists in glee.

We explore the surrounding community, its fascinating shops and monasteries. I feel good about being here then spoil it all by thinking too much (again). These tragic refugees are free to pursue their beliefs, but only in these isolated communities. Tibetans are skilful and successful business people, and Nepal, although outwardly sympathetic, is careful to keep them isolated. [shut up David]

For a while we watch a documentary about Buddhism being made at the monastery attached to our guesthouse and Karen vigilantly explores the set, hoping for a glimpse of Richard Gere.

Opposite the stupa across a busy road is the trail to Pashupatinath. It takes only 30 minutes to walk there through a hotchpotch of small farms and housing estates in various stages of completion or disrepair. We pass a school where infants play in the dirt and hear a chorus from the older children inside,
"The capital of Italy is Rome. The capital of Switzerland is Bern…"
This country has a real fascination for geography. Every child we meet tells us Canberra is the capital of Australia and the names of all our major cities. And English is not even their first language. I wonder about the merits of our education system.

At Pashupatinath we climb the steps past the Guhyeshwari Temple to another temple complex surrounded by beautiful forest that overlooks the village proper, laid out along the holy Bagmati River. Dozens of monkeys prowl, mischievous looks on their faces. Below us two funeral ceremonies occupy riverside ghats. One pyre has almost expired, the other just beginning, and a group of camera-toting Japanese tourists circle the corpse in a bizzare tourism ritual, Nikons fluttering. Ignorant, sure, but such insensitivity is obvious isn’t it?

Nearby at a succession of chaityas (small stupas) sadhus sit like sentinels, eager to dispense wisdom. We sit with a young woman called Tula, who kindly makes us some chaiya and we answer questions about our homeland. Tula sits with a pile of small rocks, ammunition against marauding monkeys trying to steal her rice as it dries in the sun.

Back at Bodhnath the light fades and strings of tiny lights glow across the stupa. Last week it was lit with thousands of butter lamps and I wished we had been here to see it…

I was surprised to learn you’re allowed to walk part of the way up the stupa, and in your shoes providing they’re not leather (nothing else leather seemed to bother the monks when we mentioned our camera case). There’s no view, but you do get to stare into Buddha’s eyes.

So close to Kathmandu and the airport Boudha, quite literally, seems to rise above the chaos.

There is much culture around the Stupa. There is a Bhuddist Monastary where you will often hear them chanting & you can even watch them. Just off to the side of the moastary is a prayer wheel about the size of a VW Bug. There are many stores there too, filled with singing bowls, masks, jewelery & there is even a store with traditional Tibetian clothes & instruments.

I would recomend spending the afternoon there. Eat lunch at the Stupa view or the Three Sisters & watch the people & explore their stores & culture.

The outer rim of the courtyard enclosing the stupa is lined with stalls selling handicrafts and other curios / souvenirs.