Driving north from Lixouri, it takes us about 35 minutes to reach this wondrous spectacle. The road kinks left and right affording amazing views of the Myrtos Gulf before climbing to the summit that overlooks the cape at Agios Kiriakis. The road then swings right and begins a slight descent with a large pull-in on the left. We pull over, jump out of the jeep and walk to the barrier- protected edge. There, spread before us is a spectacle like nothing either of us have ever seen before, a wide, graceful arc of shimmering sand and pebbles protected by staggeringly steep cliffs to it’s rear and on both ends. The waves are rolling ashore gently, with water that is literally pure turquoise in colour. This is of course Myrtos beach, the best of it’s kind on Kefalonia, if not the entire Ionians or even Greece for that matter.
Myrtos faces west meaning that parts of the beach are cloaked in deep shadow for much of the day, courtesy of the amazing mountains all around. But that hasn’t prevented it from being the premier tourist sight on Kefalonia.
We are viewing from some 300 meters up and the panoramic vista is simply awe-inspiring. How could a work of nature be anything be so beautiful? The beach was of course already famous long before it played centre-stage in Louis de Berniere’s novel Captain Corelli’s Mandolin.
Filming took place here in 1999, with the beach being used for several scenes, the most famous being that where Corelli detonated the old Turkish mine that had washed ashore. The metalled road that zig-zags down to the beach was reverted to it’s previous rough track status from where the villagers watched the well- meant but badly planned proceedings.
I ask Caz if she wants to drive down and am relieved when she replies “no”. It is simply perfect from our vantage point, a thousand feet up, and no view could possibly rival what we are experiencing here.
We return to the car and drive around the backing mountains and stop again on the north side of the beach where purpose built viewing areas have been built. It still takes our breath away and today, as I write about our experience, it makes the hair on my neck stand up. If there is one sight to see during your time on the island, then this is without a doubt that very sight.