Buenos Aires - San Nicolas

Quote: Two of the city’s best known streets are in this section of town and each should not be missed by visitors. We enjoyed wandering along Florida Street an elegant pedestrian street in the Buenos Aires city centre. Some stretches have been pedestrianised since 1913. The street runs from P.R.S.Pena northwards for approximately one kilometre, up to Plaza San Martin in the Retiro area. It intersects Buenos Aires's other pedestrian street, Lavalle, which is known as the street of movie theatres. Florida has a variety of shops and shopping arcades selling leather goods, jewellery, books and souvenirs.

The best shopping is in the Galerias Pacifico building which takes its name from the British-owned Buenos Aires and Pacific Railway company which once had offices in part of the building and operated a railway service linking Argentina to Chile and the Pacific Ocean. The building was restored in the 1990s and now houses an up-market shopping centre, with international brands. There are also many frescos by some of Argentina's most renowned painters.

During weekdays, many pedestrians from the nearby "financial district" of Buenos Aires come to Florida Street to unwind in the numerous renowned restaurants, cafes, and tea rooms. By day, Florida is bustling with shoppers and pedestrians. By evening, the pace relaxes as street performers flock to the area, including tango singers and dancers, living statues, and comedy acts.

Avenida 9 de Julio is a complete contrast and I can’t probably recommend it as a good place to wander because of its width and constant traffic but you must visit, nevertheless. Its name honors Argentina's Independence Day. (July 9, 1816). The avenue runs parallel to Florida about four blocks to the west. The avenue has six lanes of traffic in each direction but we also found that there are service roads, pedestrian walkways and some linear parks. Its unusual width is due to the fact that it spans an entire city block. The avenue was first planned in 1888 but work did not start until 1935. The initial phase was inaugurated on 9 July 1937 and the main stretch of the avenue was completed in the 1960s.

The main landmarks along the avenue which are worth seeing are:
•The French Embassy which the French government refused to allow to be demolished.
•The Teatro Colon.
•The western end of Lavalle Street, a pedestrianized street known for its many cinemas.
•The Obelisk and Plaza de la Republica.
•The statue of Don Quixote in the intersection with Avenue de Mayo.
•The former Ministry of Communications building (the only building sitting on the avenue itself), at the intersection with Moreno Street.
•Constitution station and Plaza Constitución .

Getting to Avenida 9 De Julia is easy by underground railway. Line C runs for a stretch under the avenue. Lines A, B, D and E have stations when their course intersects the avenue. Notably, lines B, C, and D share a station underneath the Obelisk, which is the focal point of the subway system and features a commercial gallery which also serves as an underpass.

Quote: We found that San Nicolas has its fair share of interesting buildings. We generally found them by just wandering the interesting streets but since leaving Buenos Aires I have discovered a little more about them. Here are three worth seeing.

Basilica de la Merced.
Nuestra Señora de la Merced is the patron saint of Barcelona and was brought to Argentina by the Spanish colonizers of South America. The construction of the first church on this site took place at the beginning of the seventeenth century – a humble church made of mud and straw. The current church dates from 1779. It received the status of basilica minor in 1917 from Pope Benedicto XV.

Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Merced is a dark church, but worth a visit for its walls and ceiling covered in frescos, as well as for its baroque and rococo styled altar. The vestibule has four beautiful stained glass windows. One depicts St Martín of Tours cutting his cloak in half to share it with a beggar. St Martín of Tours is the Patron Saint of Buenos Aires and regularly depicted in its churches.

Spain's King Alfonso XIII donated a silver cross said to be a silver replicate of the actual cross which can be seen in the church. The church's religious museum, has a sizable collection of Easter Island art including a rongorongo tablet, one of only 29 left in the world.

Central Bank.
At Reconquista 266, this classic building was built in the 1870s and was home to the Supreme Court until the 1940s. With its classic Corinthian-columned facade and airy entrance hall it is a suitably impressive building for its current purpose.

The Central Bank of Argentina was created in 1935. It is a self-governed body of the National Government, regulated by its Charter and by the Financial Institutions Act. The building has a Museum inside. The Museum has a permanent exhibit showing its major items. Temporary numismatic exhibits are held on different historical, social and political issues. The Museum includes a large library open to the public which covers a wide range of general subjects as well as volumes specialising in numismatics, Argentine history and museum-related studies.

Palace of Justice
The building stands facing Plaza Lavalle. This square is one of the oldest in town. The imposing Beaux Arts building can be considered the final phase of this architectural type. All exterior and interior surfaces are rendered with original simulated stone stucco-work, a unique finishing technique, typical of Argentine architecture. The building is the biggest building in the country finished within this technique. Stone stucco-work resulted from the mix of Italian immigrant artisans and French architectural materials and features.

Many key historical events have taken place in this building. The plea of prosecutor Julio Cesar Strassera, during the trial of the military junta which made the country undergo a violent dictatorship between 1976 and 1982, is still remembered today.

Quote: Buenos Aires has a reputation as a city with intense theatre activity. Plays are constantly being presented throughout the city's three circuits: official, commercial and independent. The official circuit which includes the General San Martín Theatre, Colón Theatre and Nacional Cervantes Theatre, is of most interest to visitors. Classic plays and innovating versions of the universal theatre and lyric are constantly presented there.

When the Teatro Colón first opened in 1857, it was across from the Plaza de Mayo, in the building which would eventually become the Banco de la Nación Argentina. Thirty-one years later, the theatre closed but a new Teatro Colón, was built. This opened in 1908 at Libertad 621. It is a spectacular building which is currently being extensively renovated.

Inside the theatre are many different rooms, including the Bust Room, the White Room, and the Golden Hall. The Main Theatre, or "La Sala" is shaped like a horse-shoe and many claim that it is one of the most perfect acoustic spaces in the world. Above it all is an illuminated dome, painted by famous Argentine painter Raul Soldi, which depicts various facets of the theatrical life. As a venue, the Teatro Colón is almost a show unto itself.

Normally, the theatre has a yearly program consisting of ballet, opera, and the theatre’s own philharmonic orchestra. However, the theatre was closed for renovation when we were there. Tel: 4382-5414.

The General San Martín Theatre at Av Corrientes 1550 is one of the most important theatres in the city. It was inaugurated in 1960, the sesquicentennial of the Revolución de Mayo. A million people pass through it every year. This enormous amount of space is divided into numerous rooms and performances spaces, each with a unique history and atmosphere. There are a wide range of performances held in this theatre, from ballet to plays. Right now, the theatre is also home to many of the performances normally held in the closed Teatro Colón. Tel: 4371-0111.

National Cervantes Theatre (Tel: 4815 8812). At Libertad 815, this attractive theatre was built in 1921 with much Spanish influence. The intricate exterior is in a richly adorned Spanish style common in the early 16th-century. Inside, the 1700-seat auditorium features Spanish materials, many of which are from a reconstruction after a 1961 fire. There is a small museum here and the National Theatre Study Institute is also based here.

Quote: The Obelisk of Buenos Aires is a modern monument placed at the heart of the city. It was built in May 1936 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the first founding of the city. The sides of the structure commemorate the first and second foundings, the first raising of the flag and the naming of Buenos Aires as Capital Federal in 1880. It is located in the center of the Plaza de la Republica, the spot where the Argentine flag was flown for the first time in Buenos Aires, at the intersection of Nueve de Julio and Corrientes avenues. Its total height is 67 meters so you can hardly miss it when in the central city area.

The obelisk is one of the main icons of the city, the centrepiece of an impressive cityscape and a venue for various cultural activities (usually sponsored by the city government) and other events. It is the traditional gathering spot for sports fans to celebrate when their favourite team wins. Throughout its history, the obelisk has suffered vandalism, especially politically-oriented graffiti. In the 1980s, an activist group broke in and spilled paint from the top windows, causing the city government to erect a fence around its base. This move stirred controversy, but eventually proved effective in reducing the number of defacing incidents.

In November 2005 a comprehensive restoration, financed by the Argentine painting and restoration industry association, was finished. The monument was painted with a "Paris stone" hue paint, deemed more pleasant than the previously used white. On December 1, 2005, the obelisk was covered by a giant pink "condom" to commemorate the World AIDS day. To commemorate the 30th anniversary of the La Noche de los Lapices, the monument was converted into a giant pencil. In 2007 it was turned the colours of the German and Argentine flags to mark 150 years bilateral relations.

Its smooth grey sides are surrounded by patches of grass and plazas in the middle of the wide Avenida 9 de Julio and can be seen from many high buildings around the city. These plazitas are not particularly peaceful as this is a high traffic zone, but you can definitely get up close and personal with the Obelisco if your heart desires.

Lines B, C, and D of the Buenos Aires Metro have stations near the obelisk, and are connected by a number of underground passages with commercial galleries.

Quote: This has to be the most architecturally beautiful shopping centre in Argentina. Even I, a notorious non-shopper, was impressed. The history of the building is also interesting.

As Calle Florida in central Buenos Aires became an elegant shopping district in the late 19th century, Francisco Seeber and Emilio Bunge were the main shareholders in the proposed Bon Marché Argentino, inspired by Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emmanuelle II. One of the era’s biggest buildings, with a double basement and four upper stories, it covered an entire city block bounded by Florida, Avenida Córdoba, San Martín, and Viamonte. When it opened it was a very popular shopping centre.

In 1908 the British-run rail company Ferrocarril de Buenos Aires al Pacífico acquired the Córdoba side for business offices and within two years, it controlled the rest of the building. It was during this period, in 1945, that the paintings about the history of mankind were placed under the main dome. It later passed to Ferrocarriles Argentinos, the state railroad enterprise

For most of the 1980s the building languished until, in 1992, the murals became a highlight of a newly fashionable shopping centre - appropriately enough, its original purpose. Today it features long halls, glass cupolas and several levels of shops. There are more than 200 stores, a number of movie theatres, and an elegant dining area with different options: from tea rooms to romantic restaurants to fast food outlets. Most of the international chains that operate in Argentina have branches here. Many show the "Tax Free" sign - when you buy from those shops, present your passport, save the receipts and you can claim back most of the VAT at Ezeiza airport when leaving Argentina (about 16%)

There are several interesting choices for lunch including several fast food asados (Argentine grills) that can be followed by some ice cream at Freddo's or some chocolates or one of the tempting desserts found at several locations. We found it gets very busy around 1 PM when the office workers take lunch, and it becomes difficult to find a table. While here, many tourists make use of the city’s best public toilets.


To get a good look at the paintings under the dome, go down the short staircase toward the food court. Also check the information booth on the ground level and ask them about the discount coupon book, which is available for all tourists and includes discounts to many of the shops there. Quite clearly, this is not the cheapest place to shop in Buenos Aires, but from our experience it is comparable to other up-market centres.

Opening hours are from 10am-10pm Monday to Saturday and from noon-9pm Sunday.