Highlights:
Ithaca Town or Vathy, the capital, is situated on the southern half of Ithaca Island, five kilometres east of the narrow Aetos isthmus that divides the island in two. It is the largest settlement on the island which has a total winter population of no more than 3,000 residents. In summer, this rises to about 8,000, many of whom take on seasonal jobs in this thriving, cosmopolitan little town. Vathy means “deep” and has given rise to such Anglo-Greek words as “bathysphere”, a type of deep water submersible.
The highlights of anywhere on Ithaca is the actual drive to get there and Vathy is no exception. After disembarking the ferry at Agios Pisaeton, the road climbs crazily up to a thousand feet, and then twists and turns for the five kilometres to the town, affording stunning views back towards Kefalonia and then north across the Gulf of Molos, the deep channel that separates the two halves of Ithaca.
As you descend into the picturesque town, you are rewarded with a fine view of the outer harbour, guarded by the tiny islet of Lazaretto, Island of The Saviour upon which is an eponymously named church and the remains of an old gaol.
Vathy was flattened by the 1953 earthquake but many buildings were rebuilt in their original style. Thus, there are still several neoclassical “archontika” or mansions along the northern part of the harbour, painted in the warm Mediterranean colours that so characterise the Ionian Islands.
The town is a warren of tight alleyways containing all manner of shops. These alleys lead back from the harbour road that is bordered by restaurants specialising in seafood, for Vathy still relies heavily upon its fishing industry.
Wandering around the town, there are several statues and memorials to find, an archaeological museum and three beautiful churches. Readers will no doubt be aware that churches feature heavily in my Greek journals; this is not down to any religious fervour but merely attributable to the inescapable fact that Greek churches are such beautiful pieces of architecture and are cherished, revered and maintained in a way that the clergy in the UK could only dream about.
Vathy truly is as pretty as a picture and the visitor would be well advised to allow at least half a day here to explore its delights.
Quick Tips/Suggestions:
I visited Vathy in mid October with most visitors long gone, I would recommend this time of the year to anyone considering a trip to Ithaca for two reasons. Firstly, the place is quiet without everything being closed. Plenty of restaurants and tavernas stay open well into November. Greek hospitality is legendary but at this time of year, you will be regarded as a traveller, rather than a tourist.
Most Ithacans realise that the huge majority of visitors to their little island come as part of an organised coach tour. Turn up however in your rented jeep with a backpack in mid-late October and you will be regarded in a whole new light.
Secondly, the roads on Ithaca almost defy description. In high season they are heaving and are not made to cope with such traffic. Driving on Ithaca is seriously challenging and is most definitely not for the faint-hearted or inexperienced driver.
Generally tip-wise, fill the car before your crossing and make certain you get back to Agios Pisaeton a good ten minutes before the ferry is due. If you’re just two minutes late, it’ll be gone and that means a night on the island.
Best Way to Get Around:
As mentioned in the first Ithacan journal, ferries are the only way to get to the island. If you want to go just as a foot passenger, the best route is from Fiskardo to Vathy. There are no bus services on the island to transfer you from your port of entry to anywhere else on Ithaca.
If taking a car (and I would consider nothing less than a 4x4), take the Sami – Agios Pisaeton ferry. This takes just 45 minutes and Agios Pisaeton is centrally located to see the island comfortably in a day.
Ferry fares are very reasonable even in high season. There is a helicopter service from Fiskardo to the tiny helipad close to Anogi. This takes in light supplies, mail, etc, and is not as such a passenger service but I’m certain that if the pilot’s hand were crossed with silver, an arrangement could be struck. Bear in mind though that without a car, you will be stuck in Anogi.
Once on the island, remember that siesta here lasts from 1.30pm until 6.30pm although Vathy’s shops and tavernas will bypass that in the summer.
