Across the tundra to Hudson's Bay

The point of the trip for me was the trip itself, riding the VIA Rail train two days and two nights across the seemingly endless tundra. Since the train leaves Winnipeg after dark, it is a surprise to wake up and find yourself literally in the middle of nowhere, flat tundra and lakes of all sizes in all directions.

Quick Tips:

Bring sturdy clothes, heavy and waterproof walking shoes or boots, layers of other clothing. Also bring mosquito repellant and you might even consider a hat with mosquito netting attached. If the wind isn't blowing, the mosquitoes will be swarming.

Best Way To Get Around:

Those special monster busses built strong enough to withstand even the most angry polar bear are the preferred mode of transportation out to see the bears. But the busses were idle when I was there, so I walked everywhere. No public transportation but there are taxis.

The Tundra Inn is like most hotels in small northern towns; worn by the years, unpretentious, comfortable and insulated for the subarctic conditions. The rooms are large, and the staff courteous and relaxed.

This is in praise of the little cafes and bakeries along the railroad on the way to Churchill from Winnipeg. The train stops briefly in several towns along the route, and invariably a cafe or bakery is nearby. One should never let either escape when confronting them far out on the prairie. I found excellent chili to go in one restaurant, and in another that served pizza I told the owner that I'd bet she couldn't prepare a sausage pizza for me and have it ready before the train left. She asked if I wanted to make that double or nothing. I lost my nerve and instead ordered two pizzas for my traveling companions. She knew the train's schedule and I would have had enough time to write a letter home before the train pulled out.

My favorite dining experience, though, happened in an odd manner. I chose not to take a cab into Thompson with a group and went for a walk along the track instead. Soon I came upon a couple almost face down on the roadbed, looking like Moslems at prayer. They looked up, and laughing, told me they had found a bunch of wild strawberries. I dashed back to the dining car and borrowed some dishes. We filled them and took them to the kitchen, where we cleaned them and when the train got under way again, we served everyone strawberries and whipped cream. The train crew really is that informal and helpful.

The tour is in two parts. The first is on a large tour boat around the harbor area, and out where the small, white beluga whales feed and play with their young. The boat drops a microphone into the water so passengers can hear the whales talking to each other with their whistling and growling sounds. The passengers are put ashore at the park, an imposing stone edifice at the mouth of the Churchill River, built by the British for protection against the French, who didn't bother showing up.

Due to the possibility of having polar bears join the tour, the park wardens are always in contact with each other by walkie talkie, and while one warden leads the group, others stand guard along the perimeter of the fort walls. The groups are herded together for safety, and the wardens are very insistent on this safety measure. On my tour a family group refused to try and keep up with the rest of us and the warden continually stopped us to wait. Finally, in complete exasperation, he made them go back to the boat and wait for us there.

If the polar bears aren't in town knocking over garbage cans and scaring the tourists, there isn't a lot to do in Churchill. It is mainly a port town and built there because the Hudsons Bay seldom freezes. However, there is one thing of great interest to me in Churchill, and that is the Town Centre. It is one enormous building, much like a covered shopping mall, except that this one has the main stores, the post office, the city hall, a playground, schools, a movie theater, and a magnificent sweeping view across Hudsons Bay. The other thing about the trip that makes it really worthwhile is the train ride. It is my favorite train ride of them all. It is like being in a David Lean movie as you go across the tundra hour after hour. People who take this train ride aren't the usual band of tourists. All I met were seasoned travelers and most were locals going to and from Churchill, and some were trappers who got off the train at some landmark that escaped me entirely. It was all virgin tundra as far as I could tell. I bought the use of a roomette, one of those tiny compartments that is about the size of your shower stall at home. During the day it has a chair and a toilet, plus a sink that folds out of the wall. At night it becomes a bed and that is all the room you have;just the single bed. The dining room/club car on the train is the equivalent of a small town tavern and the food is along those lines; hearty and filling. Body fuel. But it is here you can meet the train crew and fellow passengers.