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Showa Gate

8. Stalled Departure from Harar

Written by SkewedStyle on April 6, 2008

  • View on nancychuang.comBank employees walk unbearably slowly. The cashier did her job in slow motion: stamping, shuffling papers, and of course, moseying down to the tellers to pick up more forms. My frustration was exacerbated...
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Grinding coffee

7. Ethiopian Coffee with a Woman Imam

Written by SkewedStyle on April 6, 2008

  • View on nancychuang.comAt Mermaid Ice Cream we enjoyed Ethiopian-style juice. The clientele was entirely male, so I might have been uncomfortable without Guma. The juice was fruit puree with plenty of sugar, already delicious but...
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Bread seller

6. A Closer Look at the Old City

Written by SkewedStyle on April 6, 2008

  • View on nancychuang.comI had finally accepted that I needed a guide to really appreciate the old city, but wanted some time alone on my last morning in Harar. I arranged with Guma to meet at...
Best of IgoUgo
The hyenas of Harar

5. Harar and its Hyenas

Written by SkewedStyle on April 6, 2008

  • View on nancychuang.comI don't think Guma owned a watch because the previous night he'd tried to pick me up for the hyenas almost an hour early. I'd been too exhausted from the long travel day...
Best of IgoUgo
Babile Camel Market

4. Smalltown Hassle: the Babile Camel Market

Written by SkewedStyle on April 6, 2008

  • View on nancychuang.comI climbed on the bus and was mortified to find only one seat available: the uncomfortable sparsely-padded metal platform by the driver, facing the staring busload of passengers. I could hear children whispering...
Best of IgoUgo
Basket seller

2. Exploring the City with Child Guides

Written by SkewedStyle on April 6, 2008

  • View on nancychuang.comConsidered to be the fourth holiest city in Islam, Harar's walled old city contains perhaps the world's greatest concentration of mosques, devout women in headscarves, and while I was there, a joyful population...
Best of IgoUgo
Harar's old city

1. From New York to Harar

Written by SkewedStyle on April 6, 2008

  • View on nancychuang.comSemqua and I were each on a fourth mini bottle of red wine. It was the most enjoyable intercontinental flight I'd ever taken alone.My drunkenness was heightened by lack of sleep; I'd purposely...
Best of IgoUgo

3. Stranded Along a Desert Road

Written by SkewedStyle on April 6, 2008

  • View on nancychuang.comThe directions that had seemed simple in the book suddenly grew complex at Harar's minibus station, where everyone was shouting and no one spoke English. Timidly, I asked for "Dakata?"—the nearest village to...
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