Local Smiles and Traveler Scowls

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Places are often remembered by the Faces encountered along the way, and impacts they've made on overall travel experiences. How these make-or-break attributes are characterized is often what separates the travelers from the tourists, whether diving head-first into local culture or preferring seclusion within a private resort, guaranteed to be staffed with nationals. Either way, idiosyncrasies are unavoidable anywhere beyond the confines of home.

"Simple to a fault" is one of the nicer ways to describe the general population of Latin America, and the people of Panama precisely corroborate every stereotype probably ever heard of, or faced if acquainted with traveling in this part of the world. Realistically, they come by their tendencies honestly. Widespread poverty misconstrues local perceptions and priorities, while a lack of education and employment training further bolsters incidents and criticisms.

¡Se hable Español! It's Panamá
Travelers are in for a rude awakening if hoping that English is widely spoken as information claims. Even in tourist areas that have numerous expat-owned businesses, the majority of on-hand employees are Spanish-speaking Panamanians. Desk clerks may have limited bilingual skills. Otherwise, expect nada!

English is offered in local schools, just as Spanish classes are available in the U.S., but consider how much knowledge is retained beyond classrooms? More revealing, locals are no more eager to sound foolish using a broken second language, than travelers are. Language skills quickly fade without daily usage; be prepared to use a double-edged measuring stick when it comes to inevitable communication break-downs, and that also includes those which have a better grasp on the language.

Spanish varies as widely as does English in basic vocabulary and pronunciations. Country, regional and local colloquialisms stretch boundaries even further. Panamanians speak with a melodic cadence resembling Spain's motherland tongue, and quickly pegged my clipped speech patterns from the Caribbean. While never thought possible, Panamanians can out-talk islanders when it comes to rapid-fire deliveries! Hable más despacio, por favor, "speak more slowly, please" is elementary.

A thankfulness for being able to roughly communicate also prompted wondering how travelers manage without some basic skills; especially after timely interpretations helped defuse some travelers' nasty outbursts. Panama, or any Latin American country, should not be avoided just because of potential language barriers, but some basic preparations will sure help make a difference.

  • Burden of communication skills fall on the visitor, not the national! Faltered attempts are better than nothing at all. Making any effort generally receives one in return. At times out of habit, I'd forget and approach someone with English. Obvious reactions were very different based in fear, intimidation, and assumed inferiority.


  • Phrasebooks are more practical than dictionaries, most guidebooks have useful basics. Don't just read; say things out-loud. Memory recall is more important than correct pronunciation. Conversations are usually directed around obvious situations where native speakers will figure out what you're trying to say.


  • Don't just prepare by learning which questions to ask. Otherwise, responses carry no significance, regardless of simplicity.


  • Patience is in order! Consider how much frustration can impede communication when speaking with someone in the same language. Never under-estimate personal demeanor and body language. They convey the same messages everywhere.


  • Taming Travelers' Misconceptions
    Once the ice is broken, regardless of how well you do or don't speak the language, these socially-driven people can melt any differences through charm, hospitality, and even a protective mother-hen fussiness just trying to be helpful. In Panama City and places where there might be safety risks, expect to be repeatedly approached by strangers offering genuine concerns of ¡cuidate!, be careful! Stuck in David late one night, bar patrons felt it their duty to summarize every potentially unsafe location nearby.

    Larger metropolitan areas do have a level of sinisterism you'd expect to find in any city, and drug-infested Bocas del Toro certainly raises cause for awareness. Common sense and local advisories will more than alleviate risk factors, while remainder of the country embraces the pleasantries of "smallville" in a very large way.


    Hospitality; All in a Day's Work
    Take-off walking through any rural area, in search of bountiful exotic plants and wildlife, and don't be surprised to end-up feeling like the rare sighting! Unpretentious peasants are more than curious with stares, which quickly include smiles if given cue. Willingness to engage in conversation is customary politeness. Readily posing for the camera, or offering something to drink is all part of efforts to make even a passing guest feel welcomed

  • It's common courtesy to always acknowledge individuals with a Buenas, (Panamians rarely attach dias, tardes, noches), or simple Hola. This applies beyond when entering a room. Locals on the street appear reluctant to make eye-contact because travelers are accustomed to keep right on walking. Speaking first always nets a response.


  • Social informalities are the backbone of local interaction; even when it's time for getting down to business. Most travelers, from their "barge right in"-cultures, skip small-talk based on stating cause, with expected outcomes now/ahora. Latinos may live in the moment, but ahorita, in a little while, is their time-table for actually doing things. As if that's not potentially frustrating enough, wait until desired action has been questionably fulfilled.

    Panama's REAL Adventures
    The proclivities of Hispanic mannerisms still never cease to baffle and catch me off-guard; even with ongoing-exposure through related living and travel situations. There's simply no way to describe or prepare for lifestyles which tend to grate against everything contemporary societies value as acceptable behavior. If it's any consolation, look beyond potential melt-downs to realize these care-free people seem to exist without stress, regardless of how much they tend to generate in foreigners. Good-natures not only include laughing at their own mistakes, but also a generous "forgive and forget" honor system that spares nonconformists further embarrassment.

    Beyond money matters, anything else that relies upon quantitative calculations is largely irrelevant to the local population. This includes for measurements of time and distance; the elements for issuing directions, written or oral. Situations are further compounded with a general lack of attention for details, and potential language barriers. Confusing? Let me count the ways...

    1. ¿Donde está...? Where is-questions are smoking guns often firing blanks! In smaller towns, where streets have no names, locals often can't tell you where something is; especially for tourist-geared places they've never had need to acknowledge. In larger cities where cabs are easier, insightful drivers are also hit-and-miss.


    2. Pulling-out maps in rural areas are sure to impress. Chances are, it's the first anyone has ever seen.


    3. Latinos have a round-about way of doing things, which includes giving directions. Expect everything to be about "10-minutes" away, whether walking or driving. Just because 30-minutes has passed, and you're still searching, doesn't mean you're off-course.


    4. Frequently reconfirm everything! A local might rattle-off something they know nothing about rather than appear unhelpful with no answer.


    5. Trail-markers can also be unreliable. Along one popular route, posted distances progressed for one direction, but remained the same for two consecutive signs heading the other way. Discrepancies further persisted with different entry fees posted on opposite trailheads.


    6. Business hours and transportation schedules are most unreliable early/late in the day. Aim for in-between. Don't expect prearranged appointments or transfer pick-ups to be on-time. Unfashionably late is the local mode of operation.


    7. Slow, inattentive customer service was nothing new, but here's one to let your conscience be your guide... Several lesser-attractions were pay-as-you-exit with staff dozing, absent, or absorbed. Once, I sandwiched three counter approaches around browses of a small museum and gift-shop (either ripe for quick-pickin's). It still took a stern "¡Mida!", look here, to break-up chit-chat in the back-office within obvious-view of the lobby! For me, paying $1 to support the worthy cause was important, but it's understandable if someone kept right on walking, with pockets and backpacks full.

    First Date; a Tell-Tale Scenario
    Beyond frustrations, local peculiarities can prove downright hilarious! Laughter is the recommended tranquilizer for preserving any type of balance against the wacky predicaments Panamanians can get themselves into, and think nothing of dragging everyone else along for the ride, literally.

    Most locals will stop to offer roadside assistance; exactly what my driver did during a major downpour when approaching a semi-rig that had tried turning around, gotten stuck, and was blocking half the roadway. Genuine concern for others, regardless of delaying schedule, included insistence that I stayed-put and dry.

    Flimsy tetherings rendered our 4x4 useless. Other vehicles stopped; numerous women and children appeared carrying rocks to jam-under spinning tires to improve attempts at pushing. Nothing budged until a watermelon truck offered chains that freed the rig.

    Once my soaked driver returned, details involved embarrassments of the stuck trucker. As story goes, guy had finally mustered courage to ask girl out for a Sunday drive, in his only vehicle. Industrious women and children were girl's family, conveniently riding in the sleeper-cab. The "why" explanation? No decent Panamanian would ever compromise situations, or reputations without proper chaperoning during early courtship! But of course...

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