3 - 10 September - this was going to be bliss! A whole week of peace, perfect peace away from the madding crowd, the telephone, emails, and everything else that demands our daily attention. CASTLEBURN - that beautiful quiet spot we'd heard so…Read More

3 - 10 September - this was going to be bliss! A whole week of peace, perfect peace away from the madding crowd, the telephone, emails, and everything else that demands our daily attention. CASTLEBURN - that beautiful quiet spot we'd heard so much about but had not as yet visited, beckoned to us with an urgency. By the ninth month of the year one is pretty frazzled and in need of a little R & R in order to draw breath before Christmas - how were we to know that Christmas would be early this year?!

Arriving on Friday we were taken aback by the beauty of CASTLEBURN - pretty much surrounded by mountains; the Castle on our left with its clearly defined ramparts and battlements, Rhino's Horn in the distance and directly in front of our chalet the tranquil lake - a rowing boat here, canoe there and a couple of hopeful trout fishermen busily casting from the tiny jetties.

Saturday was sunny and hot - but hot enough to don the swimsuit I'd packed(!) but hot enough to leave us with cherry-red noses and chins from 'baking' on our patio whilst chatting over our beer-shanties. This was not 'our' timeshare. We had been invited to join our hosts Millen and Muriel Adams who had swapped one of their La Lucia Sands weeks for this one at CASTLEBURN. We will be eternally grateful them for including us on this holiday as we have made memories that will be forever etched in our minds.

The weather took a turn for the worse on Sunday afternoon and by 8am on Monday morning it was snowing. What excitement! We were like children, rushing from window to window to take in the varying views and before long it was snowing steadily - large flakes too. It snowed for about 18 hours (we checked through the night!) and the beauty of Tuesday morning left us literally and figuratively - quite breathless. How quiet everything was - here was the peace - the perfect peace and a feast of beauty everywhere - absolutely breathtakingly beautiful, such as I had only seen on a picture-postcard or overseas Christmas card.

Was it cold? You bet! Did we make a snowman? Two! Did we go for a walk in the snow and feel the crunch under our shoes? We did! 73-year-old Malcolm and 64-year-old Heather tackled the Hillside walk around the lake, slithering & sliding our way down the slopes and an hour-and-a-half later arrived back at the chalet pretty chuffed at having met our own personal challenge.

Sips of sherry, good food and a roaring fire completed our winter-wonderland week along with lots of fun and laughter with dear friends. CASTLEBURN - overall impression? IT WAS MAGIC!!

We have a married daughter with two small children that had been living in Kuwait for about two years, when they came to visit us in South Africa. Our son-in-law (Nelius) is a golf fanatic, but in Kuwait you can only play golf in…Read More

We have a married daughter with two small children that had been living in Kuwait for about two years, when they came to visit us in South Africa. Our son-in-law (Nelius) is a golf fanatic, but in Kuwait you can only play golf in the desert, since they have no lawned golf courses. In anticipation of their visit, and with Nelius’ golf-hunger in mind, we booked a 246/2 chalet for the period 5 to 9 August 2002 at Champagne Sports Resort.

Although we had driven past the Champagne Sports Resort during previous visits to the Drakensberg, we were pleasantly surprised when we actually arrived there. The receptionists were very professional, and when we arrived at our chalet, we couldn’t believe the fascinating view from our veranda. The Drakensberg was snow capped for as far as the eye could see (and our view was very wide, as can be seen on the panoramic photo attached to this report). The chalet was clean and neat, with two very nice bathrooms. After unpacking, we toured the resort with its well kept lawns, and the kids enjoyed running up-and down the little hills between the chalets. One evening they chased up a rabbit, and this caused a real stir.

The first morning (and every day thereafter) Nelius and I played a round of golf on the beautifully designed and prepared golf course at Champagne Sports Resort. After day one Nelius’ new golf shoes had schafed his heels to such an extent that he decided to rent a golf cart. I didn’t protest at all, since the course has some pretty steep sections, especially around holes four to six.

In the afternoons we would drive to do sight seeing e.g. curio shops, carpet weaving, etc. (that is, when Nelius didn’t insist on playing an additional nine holes). The highlight of the holiday was however on the Thursday afternoon when my wife and I went for a flip in the Allouette II helicopter stationed at the Champagne Sports Resort. The Drakensberg still had its snow cap, and as we approached the peak, glider pilots doing slope soaring, advised our helicopter pilot that there was no wind over the top of the mountain, and that it was safe to land there. After landing, we disembarked, and although it was chilly, it was a magnificent sight. On the second photo my wife and I are standing next to the helicopter on top of the mountain.

We were all sorry to leave on the Friday, because this had been an unforgettable experience – Nelius could play golf on the Champagne Sports Resort golf course everyday, and my wife and I had the helicopter flip of our lives. Our daughter and the kids enjoyed the amenities at the Champagne Sports Resort and our sightseeing trips immensely. The weather was perfect with just a little bit of cloud over the Drakensberg on one or two occasions. Anyone wishing to enjoy a dream holiday, should seriously consider the Champagne Sports Resort – just remember to book early, because many people have already discovered this paradise in the Drakensberg.

This Drakensberg story is one of retreat, beauty, relaxation and good eating. The drive towards the Drakensberg Mountains swept over the undulating foothills down side-roads that snake along meandering countryside to our first destination, Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse. Cleopatra is tucked away in the beautiful Kamberg…Read More

This Drakensberg story is one of retreat, beauty, relaxation and good eating. The drive towards the Drakensberg Mountains swept over the undulating foothills down side-roads that snake along meandering countryside to our first destination, Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse. Cleopatra is tucked away in the beautiful Kamberg valley in the Drakensberg Mountains, it is a gourmet getaway where attention to detail is evident everywhere. The dining room and lounge are extended over a trout-filled dam that looks out across the water to the stunning mountains of the Southern Berg. It is a magical place - a secluded luxury hideaway where the most important factor is not to come here if you are on a diet!

The build up to dinner was an event in itself, with all the guests meeting at 7pm for drinks and given an entertaining, detailed account of the gourmet meal that was to follow by Richard the chef and owner. Everything is hand prepared on the premises, some of the sauces (the highlight of most plates) take up to three days in creation. It's three fabulous starters each, in our case a plate of meltingly succulent scallops, then a rich, baked butternut soup with a dollop of creamy pesto and a plate of Mozambican king prawns. A small freshening sorbet provided Richard the time for final preparations of the main course, an elaborate plate of choice lamb cuts on rosti with three different chutneys, and rounded off with a rich chocolate concoction, perfectly offset by homemade orange-infused vanilla ice cream.

Breakfast the next morning followed in a similar style and although difficult to leave we knew that we had to walk some of this food off or we would never make the next meal. That food was possibly the best I have ever eaten, but seriously doubt having survived 2 days of this nonstop eating.

Kamberg hosts a site of Bushman rock art with relative easy access, a stunning walk including a waterfall, and particularly well preserved examples of Bushman paintings. It is here that the "Rosetta Stone" of San art first provided archaeologists with the key to interpreting the symbolism of the paintings as spiritual in content - showing how hunters gained power from the animals that they killed. Its all professionally explained by guides and although I had seen these paintings before I was again moved.

The road to our next stop, the Antbear, turned out to be just a little hop away mainly because Richard had guided us via the back roads. The Antbear Guest House is one of those seldom-found gems hidden away in a network of rural roads in the Drakensberg foothills. The little white washed farmhouse has been converted into a place of artistic elegance. It is full of hand sculptured wooden furniture, a labor of Conny and Andrew’s love. Andrew greeted us dressed in very flamboyantly African dress and welcomed us with a cup of tea. He is a humorous character with a passion for entertaining, conversation and alternative living.

Andrew is a dab hand in the kitchen too. The food is very different to that of Cleopatra definitely not as rich but no less of an experience. Supper was the best Indian food I have ever eaten with a selection of curries, papdams, onion badjis, sambals and naan bread to boot. Andrew quite likes the company in the kitchen and its really different watching this kind of cooking. Its like a circus as he casually juggles the egg turner or adds a handfull of spice to some frying onions. The hosts eat with the guests at a single table with candle chandeliers and a fireplace. It’s very welcoming indeed. For desert Andrew whipped up caramelized cape gooseberries in whiskey with hint of time. Why the Antbear is so affordable is a bit of a mystery to me and till today the Antbear is my favourite guesthouse anywhere.

Armed with Conny’s picnic lunch setoff to Giants Castle Nature Reserve. Giants Castle is a spectacular part of the Drakensberg and one of my favorite regions. It has less tourism than most other parts and I have always wondered why as it is about as beautiful as it comes. We wanted an easy walk so opted for Worlds View a 14 km trail with a spectacular 360° view at its end. We had lunch and soaked in the views and got back to Giants Castle Camp in time for a well-earned cappuccino and piece of cheesecake.

Dinner back at the Antbear turned out to be a Moroccan evening. Again the food was excellent. Andrew’s advice and enthusiasm inspires confidence and we reorganised some of our plans The following day was supposed to be a visit to the battlefields but I had forgotten about the Drakensberg Boys Choir. Andrew arranged tickets for us and this is really something not to be missed under any circumstances. The day was spent in the Champagne Valley another beautiful part of the Drakensberg.

For dinner Andrew had taken the Zulu line. An interesting stew with a type of dumpling bread baked in the same pot. Butternut and maize meal and some wild spinach added a touch of colour. What I have never seen before was the wild asparagus sautéed in lemon and butter with a hint of sesame oil. I start to drool even thinking about that now.

The next morning was a guided horse trail through the Drakensberg foothills. I am not a horse enthusiast normally but with such relaxed horses I would not have missed it for anything. It was just before lunch we headed of to Montusi

Montusi a bit like a hotel with a personal country cottage feeling about it. The lodge is perfectly positioned to catch the surrounding view, fields of galloping horses and lakes to fish in. The food here too is excellent perhaps not as unexpectedly different as the Antbear but our lamb with chargrilled lemon and mint was perfect.

Our last day in these mountains was spent walking the Tugela Gorge Walk below the Amphitheatre in the Royal Natal National Park. It took us to the base of the Tugela Falls, where the Tugela River plunges 948m (3,109 ft.) from the plateau, its combined drop making it the second highest falls in the world, and afforded us marvelous views of the Amphitheatre.

Our trip back to Durban guided us through the Midlands Meander a place I find to be over rated unless you make the effort to pick out the gems that it does offer. We stopped at Marrakesh Israeli Goats Cheese for a glass of wine and some cheese tasting. A perfect light snack after that lovely drive to get here. Our next stop took us passed the Karkloof Falls to the Karkloof Canopy tour, a unique eco-experience that takes people on a 3-hour adventure through the magnificent Karkloof indigenous forest. The canopy tour involves traversing from one platform to another along a steel cable suspended up to 30m above the forest floor.

It was 5:30 when we arrived back at my flat in Durban. We were all tired but satisfied with our week in the Drakensberg Mountains. I know that this region offers much more and far greater extremes but for us it was a perfect balance of natural beauty, good living and just a little excitement.

For the best source of info on the Drakensberg Mountains
Drakensberg guide with lots of pictures

Accommodation Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse R1250 per person includes 3 meals Antbear Guest House R350 per person includes dinner and breakfast Montusi R750 per person includes dinner and breakfast. Activities Kamberg Nature Reserve (R15 park entry per person + R25 Rock art presentation + R15 tour guide to game pass shelter) Giants…Read More

Accommodation
Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse R1250 per person includes 3 meals
Antbear Guest House R350 per person includes dinner and breakfast
Montusi R750 per person includes dinner and breakfast.

Activities
Kamberg Nature Reserve (R15 park entry per person + R25 Rock art presentation + R15 tour guide to game pass shelter)
Giants Castle Nature Reserve (R20 park entry)
Drakensberg Boys Choir concert (R75)
Royal Natal National Park (R25 park entry per person)
Karkloof Falls (no charge)
Karkloof Canopy Tour (R395 per person)