After a long flight from the UK the last thing I thought I’d be looking forward to was a four hour City tour, but it’s amazing how quickly the body can recover after a good night’s sleep. I’d slept like a baby, enjoyed a Guatemalan…Read More

After a long flight from the UK the last thing I thought I’d be looking forward to was a four hour City tour, but it’s amazing how quickly the body can recover after a good night’s sleep. I’d slept like a baby, enjoyed a Guatemalan breakfast and was now "good to go".

Our guide arrived prompt and just after 9.00 we started off on our orientation tour of this UNESCO site. It was potentially going to be tough because all the routes in Antigua are cobbled and that can be pretty hard on the joints. But exploring new places is always an adventure and we were keen to see as much as we could and learn all about Guatemala. It’s a country fairly new to democracy and anxious to develop its tourism (although I was amazed to hear that Brits have been visiting to Guatemala since the 1940’s, courtesy of Cox and King). Although we had made our travel arrangements with Audley, a rival company.

Antigua has been a World Heritage Site since 1979 and the town dates back to the early 1500’s. However, it was devastated by an earthquake in 1773 with many of its buildings being partially destroyed. These ruins remained standing and provide a superb insight into Spanish Colonialism. As we looked at the town map it was very clear that the town was built on a grid pattern, inspired we were told by cities formed in the Italian Renaissance.

We started off by heading to Central Park, the town’s centre of power with the Cathedral erected on the East side, a shopping arcade on the west, City hall to the north and the Palace of the Armed forces on the south. In the centre is the Fountain of the Sirens which was designed in 1739 by architect Miguel Porras. It’s a strange fountain with the mermaids seemingly expressing water from their breasts and cherubs above spraying water from their mouths. I guess it’s some form of allegorical depiction of life, but the message was lost on me.

Next we went to check out the Cathedral. The present day church (it actually has not got Cathedral status) is a reconstruction of only a small section of the original church. As you’d expect, therefore, the inside is fairly modern looking. But take time to check out the statues and note that they are all dressed in garments not associated with the time of Jesus. That’s the Mayan influence coming through. Our big surprise was when we left the current church and went round the side to look at the remains of the original building. My word the original Cathedral was an impressive size and construction with massive arches and huge domed ceilings. Even in its ruinous state it’s well worth a view and amazing that it’s still standing, although we understand that UNESCO have ensured its structure will withstand at least the next few decades. Some of the stone carving is still clear and crisp and the emerging plant life over collapsed pillars does not detract from the fact that this was a hallowed site.

On the way out I noticed steps down to the crypt and although our guide was not leading us down that way I decided to investigate. It was worth the visit and I was told that this under-ground cavern extended to the full ground plan of the church.

Leaving the cathedral behind us we followed the grid of streets in a seemingly aimless criss-cross, but our guide knew exactly where to go. We saw many houses leading to amazing courtyards, some incredible hefty doors (not the originals but faithful 18th century copies) with impressive door knockers. A couple had door knockers at two levels the lower for the pedestrian and the higher for coach drivers. These huge doors were of course built to enable horse drawn coaches to pass through to the house’s impressive inner courtyard.

The town is littered with churches and monasteries (I seem to recall that there were over 35 active places of worship prior to the earthquake in 1773. It is still possible to see an active monastery in Antigua and we were chuffed to see the stereo-typical friar in the grounds of one of them

We passed by the town’s open air washing centre where people still bring their laundry to wash by hand and saw, at the extremes of the UNESCO site the small single storied houses that are still occupied by the local people. Of course much of the property in the centre of town is incredibly expensive and is used in the tourist business as hotels or small B&B’s.

As we walked the town we noted the impressive corner windows from where the inhabitants could see people approaching from all directions. Windows were covered by intricately carved shutters and at many corners a concrete pillar (varying in design) was inset into the wall. We presumed that this was a design feature, but it turned out to be very practical. It was indeed a hitching post for horses.

Walking is not easy over the cobbled surfaces of Antigua, but around every corner there is a different architectural masterpiece to view. Even when the building is ruinous it has managed to hold on to its original beauty.

We visited the Church of the Sisters of Mercy (and yes I did find myself singing the Leonard Cohen song, much to the annoyance of others). This is a finely decorated yellow and white building - a "wedding cake" of a church, and once again its elaborate exterior holds a plain interior. It was originally constructed in 1546, but the earthquake reeked its harm on the structure and it was repaired in the ensuing centuries. The statues are superb with amazing attention to detail even down to the tears on the face of Mary.

As we walked back to the hotel we walked under the impressive archway, El Arco, which was built across the main street to enable the Sisters of Mercy (there goes that song again) to cross from one of their sites to another. They were a closed order so their contact with the rest of the town had to be avoided at any cost. It’s amazing that they didn’t think about a simple wooden bridge but went to the top of the range and built this archway complete with ornate clock tower.

What a fantastic orientation of the town and despite the fact that the previous day had been long and tiring we felt rejuvenated and ready for the next trip in Guatemala. But perhaps we’d rest up a little before embarking on that!

Just as we were saying farewells to our guide I asked about visiting the active volcano. We’d read that there were still lava flows and a climb to the top, although strenuous, could guarantee a view of the flow. Our guide, anxious not to disappoint us explained that although the views from the top were superb (if the sky was clear of cloud) the volcano was "not flowing" at the current time. We decided to give that visit a miss and opted to "go it alone" to the Coffee museum the next day (see separate review).
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These ruins are within a few blocks of each other, northwest of the plaza. Santa Catarina Past Also known as Santa Catalina, this convent was built in 1609 to address a lack of housing for local nuns. In 1693, an arch was built over the street, connecting the…Read More

These ruins are within a few blocks of each other, northwest of the plaza.

Santa Catarina
Past
Also known as Santa Catalina, this convent was built in 1609 to address a lack of housing for local nuns. In 1693, an arch was built over the street, connecting the convent to the church, so the nuns could honor their vow not to be seen in public. In 1697, the convent reached its maximum occupancy of 110 nuns. It was abandoned, like most other establishments in town, in 1773. In 1775, it was turned into housing. The arch was restored in 1853 and again in the 20th century.
Present
Today part of the church and the cloister walls stand in ruin. The arch still exists and is probably Antigua's most famous landmark. We read that the convent is open to the public; but the church and the arch are not. We could not find the entrance.

La Merced
Past
La Merced, the first monastery of Antigua, was built in 1548. The present church was built in 1767 by the architect Juan de Dios Estrada who, taking into consideration the local seismic activity, designed a structure with short proportion, thick walls and a sturdy facade. The church survived all the earthquakes up to the second earthquake in 1773 when it sustained moderate damage and was abandoned. It was restored in 1853; damaged some in 1976 and promptly fixed. The convent was destroyed by the 1773 quake.
Present
One of the few old churches still standing in town, La Merced is also the easiest to recognize. It is yellow and its facade is decorated with swirling and frilly white designs in a technique known as ataurique. It is open daily from 7 am to noon and again from 3 pm to 8 pm. The convent, still in ruins, houses the largest fountain in Antigua. It is open daily from 9am to 6pm. Admission is Q3 (US$ .37).

San Jeronimo
Past
San Jeronimo was built as a school in 1739. It was completed in 1759 but because of red tape, was closed two years later. The king gave orders to tear it down. He was ignored and in 1765, it became the Real Aduana (Royal Custom House). It was abandoned in 1773.
Present
San Jeronimo is a pleasant place to spend a few hours, with its fountain and grassy areas. Mostly in ruins, the kitchen, a small chapel from the 18th century, and the front of the school remain standing. It is open daily 8am to 5pm and admission is Q30 (US$3.75) for foreigners.

La Compañia de Jesus
Past
This school was started in 1607 and the church was inaugurated in1626. A new church was started in 1689 but because of earthquake damage was not inaugurated until 1698. It was seriously damaged in 1751 and restored in 1755, but was abandoned in 1767 when the Jesuits were kicked out of Hispanic America. It was badly damaged in 1773 along with the rest of Antigua. During the 1800s, it was a textile factory until the roof and cupola collapsed. In 1912, a market was set up here until the 1976 quake caused even more damage. In 1978, it was partially restored. During its heyday, La Compañia de Jesus consisted of the school, the church, a convent, a library, a hospital and fruit orchards.
Present
The front of the church is still standing where some original, and some recreated, fresco work can be seen. Restoration work is now being done by a Spanish company. The church is not accessible to the public but the convent is open daily from 9am to 6pm. No admission is charged.

Planning to visit the Valhalla Macadamia Farm, we decided to make a morning of it and see some nearby villages. Although we went first to the farm, backtracked to Ciudad Vieja, turned around again to San Antonio Aguas Calientes, on to Santa Catarina Barahona and…Read More

Planning to visit the Valhalla Macadamia Farm, we decided to make a morning of it and see some nearby villages. Although we went first to the farm, backtracked to Ciudad Vieja, turned around again to San Antonio Aguas Calientes, on to Santa Catarina Barahona and turned around one more time heading back through San Antonio and ciudad Vieja, it makes much more sense to make the loop - Ciudad Vieja, San Antonio, Santa Catarina, San Miguel de las Dueñas, Valhalla and back to Ciudad Vieja. By car this was an interesting half-day outing. It is also easily done by bus, but much more time consuming. Walking is also a possibility as distances are short: Antigua to Ciudad Vieja - 5km; Ciudad Vieja to San Antonio - 3km; San Antonio to Santa Catarina - less than 1km.

Ciudad Vieja, originally Santiago de los Caballeros, became Guatemala's second capital (after Iximchè and before Antigua) in 1527. Shortly after, in 1541, a huge mudslide destroyed the town. Almost nothing remains from that era. On the plaza is a beautiful church, some say it was built in 1534, making it the oldest in Central America, others say it was built in the 18th century. The locals we asked all agreed that it was old but none knew how old. Nowadays this is a traditional and busy town with not much else to see.

San Antonio Aguas Calientes is famous for its high-quality weaving, with intricate designs where both sides of the material look finished, making distinguishing front from back impossible. There are small stores all over this small town selling textiles. The plaza is the heart of the community and the main reason to visit. It has an interesting church, gardens with benches, a beautiful fountain of a woman with a pitcher, on old cross and a community laundry area. Across the street is a two-story building, fronted by an arcade of arches, housing government offices. Next-door is the bright pink textile market. Inside are stalls selling woven goods from all over Guatemala.

After an exhausting shopping spree, we sat to rest in the plaza. Soon we heard music, and then that music being echoed. By the doors to the church was a band of elderly musicians, apparently teaching a group of younger musicians a new song. We were then overcome by a smoky, spicy smell and quickly found the man with a copal branch burning. He was blessing the corners of the plaza and then headed off to the church. The bells rang calling worshipers, the music got louder; then everyone disappeared through the doors. As we were packing our new purchases into the car, we heard the sermon being broadcast over speakers. What surprised us was not that it was in the local language but that it was a woman preaching.

Santa Catarina Barahona is a small town virtually connected to San Antonio. Once again, the point of visiting town is to see the plaza. There is a monument commemorating Sancho de Barahona, a captain under don Pedro Alvarado, who founded the town in 1530. Later a church was built, which still stands and is in use, but is crumbling around the edges. In the middle of the plaza are a fountain and a basketball court. Across the street is a small government building and a makeshift video arcade.

Valhalla Macadamia Nut Farm, besides growing and processing the nuts, donates saplings and equipment to small Guatemalan communities and teaches the villagers how to benefit, financially and ecologically, from the trees. Interesting tours of the grounds are offered, as are macadamia pancake breakfasts.

Start the self-guided Historical Walking Tour at the town square. While I was intensely drawn to the beauty and activity buzz of all the town squares in Guatemala, Antigua’s plaza is especially impressive. The massive trees offer friendly shade, and combined with the…Read More

Start the self-guided Historical Walking Tour at the town square. While I was intensely drawn to the beauty and activity buzz of all the town squares in Guatemala, Antigua’s plaza is especially impressive. The massive trees offer friendly shade, and combined with the cold drinks and snacks sold by countless vendors, it is a prefect place to beat the heat. The cooling sounds of the local fountain almost distract you front the fact that the water is spouting out of the breasts of the female statue figures. Now add in the scenery of colonial architecture and massive volcanos rising in the distance, and you too will be in awe.

Around the perimeter of the central park are many buildings of note. Directly to the south is the Palacio de los Capitanes, built in 1543. This building was the headquarters of the Spanish Colonial government. This is also the building that the INGUAT (Tourism) office is in – stop in to pick up a map that outlines a Historical Walking Tour.

To the east of the Palacio is the old University of San Carlos building, now the Museo de Arte Colonial (Colonial Art Museum). This museum has a good collection of colonial paintings. The entrance fee for this museum is 25Q (US$3), but entry is by donation on Sundays.

Directly east of the plaza is the Santiago Cathedral (1542). The church has been damaged and rebuilt many times. It is said to contain somewhere within the remains of Don Pedro de Alvarado, conquistador of Guatemala. Admission 2-3Q.

North of the plaza is the Palacio del Ayuntamiento, the current town hall. In addition to government offices, this building contains the Museo de Armas (Old Weapons Museum), and the Museo del Libro Antiguo (Antique Books Museum), admission 10Q (US$1.25) pp for each museum.

Scattered within a 5 block radius of the plaza are many more places of interest. There are numerous churches and convents: Santa Clara, San Francisco, and Capuchinas, just to name a few. There are also many sites of former churches, destroyed by earthquakes and either not rebuilt or only partially rebuilt. They are interesting in their own right - it is a great conflict to see big piles of rubble, with beautiful bits of statue or architectural embellishments sticking out of the mess.

On 5a Avenida, between 1a and 2a Calles, is the Arco de Santa Catarina. Arches are common architectural scenery in Antigua, but this one is massive and bright yellow. It was built in 1694 and has withstood each and every earthquake.

Going north through the arch, the Merced church cannot be missed. An interesting outcome of the earthquake/restoration/repeat process is that the buildings retain the original architectural aspects, but are finished off in the style of the period in which they are restored. The Merced was last rebuilt in the 1850s, and the baroque façade – white detail on yellow background – is unforgettable. Inside in somewhat unremarkable, save for the 27m fountain, said to be the largest in Central America. I welcomed the quiet cool escape from the hot busy street outside.

I did not visit Popenoe House, solely for the reason that I missed it on the list for some reason. Anyway, apparently this was a colonial mansion, destroyed in the 1773 earthquake, like most other buildings. In the mansion lived Don Luis de las Infantas Mendoza y Venegas – a royal official of Spain – and his family. It stayed in its ruined condition all the way until 1931, when it was given a full authentic restoration (by a man named Popenoe), with attention given to the details of how this royal family would have lived. Popenoe House is only open 2pm-4pm, every day except Sunday. Entrance fee = US$1.25

Check out my other journal entries on Clothing Museum (Casa del Tejico Antiguo) and Music Museum/Coffee plantation (Casa K’ojom).

There is no need to carry and food or water on this walking tour, as nourishment is never far away. There are shops of all sizes and shapes, internet access galore, and plenty of beggars and pickpockets thrown in to keep things interesting. One can spend 1-3 days exploring the streets of Antigua when combining it with shopping and eating – relax and wander, there is something interesting around every corner.

The guidebook warned against climbing Pacaya without a guide. I got the impression that there were bandits around every corner, ready to jump out of the bushes at any time. So we signed up for a guided tour with Gran Jaguar. When we showed…Read More

The guidebook warned against climbing Pacaya without a guide. I got the impression that there were bandits around every corner, ready to jump out of the bushes at any time. So we signed up for a guided tour with Gran Jaguar.

When we showed up the next morning at 5:50am for the tour, we were dismayed to discover that there were 25 people on the tour! I guess this was not to be a low-impact excursion. We were to be herded up the mountain in a pack.

The bus took us to the park entrance, where we had another unpleasant surprise. Apparently, the 25Q (US$3) National Park entrance fee was not included in our tour price.

The hike started out mellow, as a stroll in the woods with many breaks for the guide to point inconsequential sights, more as a filler, it seemed, than anything else. One highlight was a stop at an overlook of three other volcanos: Fuego, Agua, and Aguacatan. Fuego was erupting at the time, and the steam and ash cloud rising up from the summit were impressive. It made me think that perhaps I was hanging out at the wrong volcano.

Farther along the hike, we got our first glimpse of Pacaya. The top was shrouded in clouds, and I remembered our viewless volcano climb of the previous week. I desperately hoped that this climb would not end the same way. "Please clear, please clear," I thought.

Directly around us was clear, however, and the landscape was captivating. An immense hardened lava flow wrapped around the base of Pacaya, devoid of any life, but looking alive with movement itself because of its lines and texture.

At last we got to the final stretch – an incredibly steep and ashy climb. As we ascended, we seemed to slide one step back for every two steps forward. The loose ash was hard on the ankles, and the elevation gain was hard on the lungs. But the worst part by far was the wind. Lower down, we hadn’t felt any wind, but now it was relentless. And the higher we climbed the worse it got. Our eyes were watering, our noses were dripping, and our faces were stinging from being hit with flying sand and pebbles.

Just below the summit, we stopped for a snack behind some large rocks. During the brief respite from the wind, I could feel the heat from the volcano radiating up through the rocks. The warmth was a welcome contrast to the biting wind.

After one last steep climb, we were at last at the summit. And... we were in the clouds. I felt the disappointment set in. I just was not having luck climbing volcanoes here in Guatemala. No views. I couldn’t see anything around me, including into the crater. But I could feel the heat from the crater and could smell the sharp sulfur odor, almost overpowering at times.

The wind at the summit was the most ferocious I had ever been in. I literally was knocked to the ground more than once. It was a bit scary with the steep dropoff into the crater, with no guardrails, of course. Dan tried to hold me up, but it was easier just to hug the ground. It was actually pretty comical. A huge group of people clinging to the ground, trying to stay just a bit longer in case the clouds might clear. There was also an abundance of a phenomena that I call "front butt." Looking back at the pictures, folks pants were being blown so full of air by the wind, and that combined with the front pants seams, made for what looked like a huge butt where their belly was supposed to be!

When we could stand the wind no longer, the guide led us down. But we went down a different way than we came up. He took us to a wide straight path that went almost directly down the mountain. He pulled us together and told us that there was only one way to go down – we would have to run. Run?! What?!

Then he demonstrated. With one large jump, he was 20 feet down the trail, and he kept run-jumping down to a flatter spot. He turned and motioned us to copy him – and whatever you do, he said, don’t try to stop! That is when people get hurt.

The more daring of us went first. Yippee! I cannot tell you how much fun this was. Who cares about having no view at the summit! Who cares that we were herded up the mountain en masse! Who cares! This was a blast!

I laughed and laughed all the way down, the wind pushing tears out of the corners of my eyes. I wanted to do it again! One by one, our group made it to the bottom of the run-jump ramp, each person with a huge grin hanging on their face.

The remaining hike out was mellow and pleasant. We looked back at Pacaya and saw that the summit cloud had cleared. Oh, well. We had our chance and were content to smile and chat with local folks coming up the mountain on family excursions.

I would say that the Pacaya hike was worth the price for the guide and bus ride, but that the guidebook was wrong. There were enough tourists, families, and security people on Pacaya that this trip seemed to be safe to do without a guide.

Price with Gran Jaguar = US$7 pp

www.sanjoseelviejo.com After studying for 3 weeks at Tecun Uman, I decided to change schools to see what else was out there. I chose Escuela de Espanol San Jose el Viejo because it was the most beautiful school I had seen in Antigua! The School: The…Read More

www.sanjoseelviejo.com

After studying for 3 weeks at Tecun Uman, I decided to change schools to see what else was out there. I chose Escuela de Espanol San Jose el Viejo because it was the most beautiful school I had seen in Antigua!

The School:
The school is next door to the ruins of an old church, and you can see these ruins on the side of the school. Thus, when you walk in the school, you see the ruins on the right, and the rest of the facilities are covered with greenery - this school must have one of the best kept gardens in the whole city. If you are lucky, you will get your own "classroom" in the gardens, complete with a whiteboard for you and your private teacher to use. There is free Internet access for use during the breaks, and there are two sweet Labrador Retrievers that walk around and visit all the students.

The Teachers:
I had three different teachers at the school. One was very good, one was pretty bad, and my last teacher was excellent. Most of the improvement in my Spanish occurred with this one teacher (Alejandro). The school lends you textbooks to use, but most of the time my teacher and I just talked about random topics. In addition, he brought a book (in Spanish) discussing topics such as astrology, life in the future, abortion, and other controversial topics. We would choose one topic a day in the late mornings (the early mornings were dedicated to grammar) and debate the issue at hand.

The Activities:
Unfortunately, the school did not offer free activities. However, every Thursday, the school organized a trip, either to Azotea (a nearby museum and coffee plantation), to San Antonio Agua Caliente (a nearby town), or to a macadamia farm. They usually rotated between these three activities, which meant that after 3 weeks, you wouldn't have any other activities to attend. In addition, they grossly overcharged for these activities.

The Cost:
Pretty reasonable at $85/week for 4 hours a day for a private teacher. You can also stay in the gorgeous facilities (not homestays, but apartments) they give you access to their pool and tennis courts. Very luxurious!

I spent 3 weeks studying at the Spanish School, Tecun Uman, located at 6a Calle Poniente 34A in Antigua, Guatemala. It cost about $100/week for 4 hours a day for a private Spanish teacher. Teachers: My private teacher did not speak any English, so it actually…Read More

I spent 3 weeks studying at the Spanish School, Tecun Uman, located at 6a Calle Poniente 34A in Antigua, Guatemala. It cost about $100/week for 4 hours a day for a private Spanish teacher.

Teachers: My private teacher did not speak any English, so it actually worked out great. Any time I did not understand a word in Spanish, she had to define it for me in Spanish, which really helped my listening skills. My teacher was a Mayan woman, and was a fairly good teacher. She used materials from other schools and had a set plan for teaching (grammar and drills from 8am to 10am, reading and conversation from 10am to noon). The only complaint I had was that there were no books for me to check out and take home.

Facilities:
The school had places to sit in their main office, as well as in another location about 2 blocks away. Both locations were well-kept and clean, with free coffee and water. I would say that their facilities were not as nice as some of the other schools, but the view of the volcano made up for it. Also, when the school was really crowded, it became a bit noisy, as there were some 60 students and their private teachers speaking at the same time.

Activities:
The school had a lot of activities, as the school director, Mario, was truly involved and cared about his students. There were free salsa classes once a week and cooking classes every now and then (I learned how to make a special Guatemalan dessert!). There were also trips to nearby towns (eg San Antonio Aguas Calientes, where you can attend a lecture in Spanish about the customs in the town regarding their textiles), museums, and other sights. All activities were very reasonably priced (not like some other schools, which were obviously making money on their activities). Overall, I would say that the activities were one of the highlights of the school!

Antigua is famous for its abundance of language schools. I was lucky enough to come to Guatemala knowing a lot about these schools and what I wanted from one: intensive instruction, value, a home stay with a local family, and extra activities to back up…Read More

Antigua is famous for its abundance of language schools. I was lucky enough to come to Guatemala knowing a lot about these schools and what I wanted from one: intensive instruction, value, a home stay with a local family, and extra activities to back up my language learning. I chose the Instituto because it presented all of these things. The school itself is located at 1a Calle Poniente #10, very near the La Merced church.

For about $130/week, my lessons, room, and board were covered. I enjoyed private lessons with a different instructor each week, free field trips in the afternoons, a nearby home stay with wonderful people (a great way to reinforce my Spanish study), and the welcome hot coffee or tea each morning on the school patio with other students. I made fast friends, but it didn't take away from my classes.

What I really liked about the school was how much work they did to accommodate the students. I asked for lots of homework to practice with, so my maestro made sure each day to have handouts and activities ready for me.

Each afternoon, there were trips and activities at the school —all for free—and the best part was that, through the school, I ended up seeing all that I wanted to in and around Antigua: the Butterfly Enclosure near Jocotenango, the Valhalla Macadamia Nut Farm (where I got a macadamia nut oil facial!) outside of town, the evil saint Maximon in San Andres Ixtapa, and a climb to the Cerro de la Cruz overlook of Antigua! When we weren't exploring, there was music, dancing, and movies at the school.

It was an overall good experience, I must say. Attending a language school is a fabulous and affordable way to spend a few weeks in the lovely town of Antigua.

One of the reasons I love to travel to Central and South America is the rich and deep history of this beautiful land. The fact that prices for just about anything are well under other vacation destinations doesn’t hurt either. We landed in Guatemala City…Read More

One of the reasons I love to travel to Central and South America is the rich and deep history of this beautiful land. The fact that prices for just about anything are well under other vacation destinations doesn’t hurt either.

We landed in Guatemala City and went directly by hired car ($50) to our hotel in Antigua (the former capital of Guatemala). The Cloister property is a seven-room former villa (not really an updated cloister, although the aura of that ilk prevails) framed around gardens, sitting areas, and gorgeous works of art and crafts indigenous to the area. The owner, an American woman 16 years in Antigua, is rarely seen but not missed at all, as the staff is efficient, friendly, and very experienced. The Cloister is more of a B&B than a hotel, so go there for its beauty, serene and quiet atmosphere, and safety. It’s not the place for the usual amenities and services of a hotel.

The weather was gorgeous – 50°F at night and 70°F during the day, with crisp sunshine and wonderful views of volcanoes. In fact, one of the three volcanoes is quite active and can be seen smoking and spitting on a regular basis.

We walked the city and then took a formal walking tour lead by famed guide Elizabeth Bell. I recommend this walk highly, as it is very informative and takes you places you’d be less likely to visit on your own. We even saw and met the mayor!

We took a day trip to the Chichicastenango, El Quiché market, coupled with a stop at Lake Atitlán, and then followed the next day by a visit to a working coffee plantation and some outlying villages that seemed to cover the shopping, cultural, and exploring needs of the group.

The food was very good – and that goes for both the local cuisine and the meals in the three- and four-star restaurants. Bottled water is served everywhere, which may be the reason my group stayed quite healthy, with no stomach complaints.

Organized activities are strongly recommended, as the possibility of danger, especially in the mountain areas, was discussed openly by the locals.

We booked our trip with CLARK TOURS, which is one of the more reputable and older companies operating in Guatemala. Our guide and driver were with us for 4 days, and we got to know them both pretty well. Our guide was very…Read More

We booked our trip with CLARK TOURS, which is one of the more reputable and older companies operating in Guatemala. Our guide and driver were with us for 4 days, and we got to know them both pretty well. Our guide was very knowledgeable and wanted to share as much as he could about his native country.
Our group was only 3 people, but we were treated like royalty. All the hotels booked for us were impressive, and the minibus that we were driven around in was spacious, clean, and air-conditioned.
Since our Clark Representative had a lot of experience, he was able to recommend some great restaurants to try, and night life to check out. We were given advice on when it would be safe to walk places and when it would be better to just call a cab. When our trip ended and we headed to the Airport in Guatemala City our guide took us right to our gate, made sure our luggage was checked in correctly and headed back to California. We felt very safe and well taken care of, which is important when your group consists of 3 young women. I highly recommend Clark Tours to any traveler.Close