This story actually starts back before June of 2003, when we were scheduled to go to Mombassa, Kenya. It was to be our first time in Africa. We had made the two-week reservation at the Royal Reserve Safari and Beach Club months before. Then…Read More

This story actually starts back before June of 2003, when we were scheduled to go to Mombassa, Kenya. It was to be our first time in Africa. We had made the two-week reservation at the Royal Reserve Safari and Beach Club months before. Then terrorists bombed a resort twenty miles away. We decided to take a chance that it wouldn’t happen twice in the same area and planned to travel anyway. About ten days before we were to leave, British Airways announced they were canceling all flights to Nairobi because of the trouble at the British Embassy in Nairobi, end of story, almost. Then we found ourselves in Spain and only a one-hour ferry ride away from Africa. We were a little worried about our safety, but we thought that maybe we could take the ferry across, walk briefly on African soil, and take the next ferry back to Spain. We talked it over and decided to go for it. We drove the rental car to Algeciras and parked it in an all-day lot (for 19 euros). There are two ferries. One takes an hour to cross, and the other takes two and a half hours. We boarded the faster ferry (two adults for 102.30 euros) and waited for the departure. The ferry sat for an hour before finally leaving. As it turned out, that was the best thing that could have happened to us. While we were waiting to leave, we started talking to a man named Mohammed and his wife and eight-year-old daughter. They were on vacation from their home in Birmingham, England, to visit his family, who still live in Tangier, Morocco. Two hours later, when we arrived in Tangier, we helped carry their luggage to the parking area where they were met by Mohammed’s brother. To our surprise, Mohammed sent his wife and daughter with his brother and told us he wanted to be our guide to see Tangier. Using his cell phone, he reached one of his cousins who picked us up with his car. They drove us all around the city and up into the hills to see the mayor’s home and the king’s palace. He talked a man with camels into letting us ride on them. Then we returned to the city where he led us through the oldest part, the Kasbah, and introduced us to many of the vendors who appeared to be longtime friends of Mohammed, going back to when he had worked as a tourist guide in Tangier as a young man. We visited a famous hotel where American and English actors stayed while filming in the area. He spent the entire day and most of the evening showing us the city he grew up in and obviously is still in love with. Tangier is an exotic city with customs very different from our own, but he made us feel so safe and welcome there, that we will always remember it as a beautiful, exciting and friendly city. We saw such diversity there. Some of the women were dressed in burqas that covered them completely, except for their eyes. Others were dressed in modern styles. Men gathered in cafes or in groups around the city without any women included, yet women walked freely around the city, in groups of two or three, to do their shopping and take care of other business. We saw young girls leaving a school dressed in matching white smocks, some with backpacks with Barbie pictures on them. Some of the boys were playfully punching each other as boys do all over the world. The overall impression we had was of a male-dominated society, but there were definitely signs of change. We were having such a great time that our new friend had to remind us that the last ferry back to Spain leaves at 11pm. He and his cousin drove us back to the ferry building, made sure we got our passports stamped, walked us to the boat and made sure we were safely aboard before they left to join their families. The last ferry back was a slow one and took two and a half hours to make the crossing. We drove the rental car back to our resort. Thanks to Mohammed, we had a wonderful time visiting our sixth continent. Someday we hope to also visit Antarctica, too.Close

One of the reasons we travel as much as we do is because we like to have new experiences. Sometimes, we enjoy getting out on our own and exploring as opposed to traveling in a group with a guide. My better half usually prepares for…Read More

One of the reasons we travel as much as we do is because we like to have new experiences. Sometimes, we enjoy getting out on our own and exploring as opposed to traveling in a group with a guide. My better half usually prepares for these excursions by doing some preliminary research before leaving home. I, on the other hand, am lazier but more spontaneous. Our differences make traveling together more exciting for both of us.

The day we went to Malaga, we started out with a list of sights collected from travel guides and Internet information sites. Driving a rental car in a strange country can sometimes be an experience in itself. We soon discovered that Spain provided excellent roads and highways and once we got used to the road signs, we began to really enjoy how courteous the other drivers were. The scenery along our route was beautiful with wild flowers in bloom and changing views of the Mediterranean Sea on our right. As we arrived in Malaga, we followed signs that guided us to the marina area in the heart of town. We drove around the area for a short time to get a feel for lay of the land before depositing the car in one of the underground parking garages. We walked a few blocks to the Plaza de la Marina, where we began our walking tour.

Our first stop was at the Cathedral, which was built, along with the nearby Church of El Sagrario, over the site of the Great Mosque. Building began in 1528 and ended in 1782. Some of the work was never completed. The incomplete south front tower is the reason for the Cathedral’s nickname of "La Manquita", "the one-armed". The inside of the Cathedral is incredibly beautiful and should be seen if at all possible. The Cathedral front opens onto Plaza del Obispo, a beautiful square containing the Episcopal Palace. In the plaza we stopped briefly for a snack before going on to the Picasso Museum on Calle San Agustin, one of the most charming streets in Malaga. It is a very popular tourist area because it also has the Convent of San Agustin and the Palace of the Counts of Buenavista.

Until 1997, the Palace housed the Museum of Fine Arts, but now is the seat of the Picasso Museum, holding examples of the work of the most famous artist ever born in Malaga. We had seen a collection of Picasso’s works at the Hakone Open-Air Museum the last time we visited Japan, so we had an interest in seeing this museum, too. However, the best reason for visiting it, in my humble opinion, is to see the exhibit below the museum. Excavations beneath the building unearthed significant ruins from Malaga’s Phoenician, Roman, Moorish and Renaissance periods. I was able to touch a vase embedded in a stone wall that dated back to six centuries B.C. That is incredible to me. Unfortunately, no one is allowed to take pictures inside the museum, including the excavated ruins.

From the Picasso Museum, we took a short walk to the Church of Santiago, built in the 15th century, and then to the Plaza de la Merced where we saw a funerary obelisk marking the remains of General Torrijos and fifty of his followers who were executed by firing squad on the San Andres Beach in 1831.

On our way to Gibralfaro Castle and the Alcazaba we stopped at the remains of a Roman theatre. The theatre is proof of Malaga’s importance in Roman times and dates back to the 2nd century A.D. As we sat on the stone seats, my mind drifted back to my high school days in Mr. Dresp’s Latin classes when I wondered if I was wasting time studying a dead language and learning about old Roman conquests. The more we travel, the more I wish I had paid better attention in school. The Alcazaba was built over the ruins of a Roman fortress in the first half of the 11th century, and was completed in 1063, during the period of the Moorish kingdoms of Granada. The entire Alcazaba site has undergone large-scale restoration and should not be missed. One of the palaces houses the collections of the Archaeological Museum, with interesting examples of Moorish ceramics, as well as prehistoric, Phoenician, Greek, Roman and Visigoth remains.

Gibralfaro Castle completed the defensive system of the Alcazaba and stands on a high hill commanding magnificent views of the city and the bay. It is no longer in use but it has been restored several times over the years. We were able to take some wonderful pictures of Malaga and the bay from Gibralfaro Castle and the Alcazaba.After climbing to the top of the Alcazaba, it was nice to discover an elevator that delivers you to the bottom and leads to an exit only a block away from Malaga's beautiful Town Hall built in neo-baroque style in the early 20th century.

There are plenty more sites worth seeing in Malaga if you have the time. With only a week on the Costa del Sol, and so much more to see and do, we had to limit our time in Malaga to one day. We look forward to returning some day in the future to see more.

We were collected from our timeshare by coach at around 8am in the morning ready for our journey to Gibraltar.We were collected from our timeshare by coach at around 8am in the morning ready for our journey to Gibraltar.…Read More

We were collected from our timeshare by coach at around 8am in the morning ready for our journey to Gibraltar.

We were collected from our timeshare by coach at around 8am in the morning ready for our journey to Gibraltar.

The Nerja Cave is called the Natural Cathedral of Prehistory due to its incomparable beauty and historic importance. The cave, first discovered in 1959, lies near Maro, about 30 miles (48km) from Malaga. We drove our rental car there one day, arriving at about 2pm.…Read More

The Nerja Cave is called the Natural Cathedral of Prehistory due to its incomparable beauty and historic importance. The cave, first discovered in 1959, lies near Maro, about 30 miles (48km) from Malaga.

We drove our rental car there one day, arriving at about 2pm. We were just in time to learn that the cave is open only from 10am to 2pm and from 4pm to 6:30pm daily. Unfortunately, the store also closes from 2pm until 4pm.

The good news was that parking in the large paved lots was free, and the rather large restaurant was open and offered either a well-stocked buffet or your selection from their menu. The prices were fairly high compared to US pricing, probably due to the fact that we tourists are a captive audience. We opted for ice-cream parfaits for about 11.3€. We were able to visit with some British tourists until the ticket office re-opened at about 3:45pm. Two adult tickets cost 10€.

From the man-made entrance, we descended a flight of stairs for about 8m to an "entrance hall," the site of an archaeological excavation. Some of the finds are shown in a display case and on explanatory panels. We continued down a narrow passage about 2m high, entering the Hall of the Nativity, where our picture was taken for later purchase in the gift shop. Here, in a showcase, we viewed a stone-aged skeleton that was found in the cave.

A passage on the right, called the Hall of the Tusk, encircles the Waterfall Chamber, sometimes referred to as the Hall of the Cascade, or Ballet, where the internationally famous festivals of dance and music are staged in the summertime. The auditorium consists of about 100 metal seats, without cushions. The stairway offers an excellent panoramic photo opportunity. Photography is discouraged, but people took pictures anyway without being harassed. The cave is so large that a normal flash would be practically useless anyway. Beyond the stage, we entered the Hall of Phantoms, which ends in a bottleneck resulting from a chaotic pile of fallen rocks. Above this is a spectacular stalagmite formation called The Castle.

We took the steps over the bottleneck into the Hall of the Cataclysm, where we enjoyed two panoramic views. Behind us was the Hall of the Phantoms, and ahead was one of the most impressive show cave scenes in the world: the Hall of the Cataclysm. It is more than 100m long, 50m wide, and over 30m high, with a giant center column featured in the Guinness Book of Records as the largest in the world.

Here the path divided, and we took the one on the right descending to a new landing known as the Organ, where we were told that striking the fluted columns would produce different musical sounds. More steps lead down to The Bridge. In the highest point close to the roof is a passage leading to the Upper and New Galleries, which are only open to the public on special occasions as a part of a 7-hour tour costing 90€ per adult. After crossing The Bridge, our path passed over a huge fallen block and then rose as it circumnavigated the central column before rejoining our original path at the entrance to the Hall of Cataclysm. Returning along the same path gave us another perspective. In the Hall of the Tusk, we turned right to exit up a final flight of stairs. The padlocked steel door on the right leads to the Hall of the Mine and other sites of archaeological interest not open to the public.

We headed west one day to Gibraltar. The drive along the coast is wonderful, but keep your eyes on the winding road. The rock is a bit of England right in Spain. On a clear day you can see Africa, however this…Read More

We headed west one day to Gibraltar. The drive along the coast is wonderful, but keep your eyes on the winding road. The rock is a bit of England right in Spain. On a clear day you can see Africa, however this day was misty and we could just barely make out the coast. As you get close, it just pops out at you going around a bend in the road. Going though the city, pay close attention to the road signs because it is easy to get caught in a maze of one way streets that seem to get narrower the more you keep going. Eventually we came out of it ok and found the long waiting line to cross through customs. To get to the rock, you actually pass over an airport strip. It's the first time we saw an "airplane crossing" barrier. We hit the south end first to get our view of Africa, the lighthouse, and the mosque. Then we drove up and discovered the apes. No, not behind bars or isolated by troughs and walls. These guys were up close and personal. Truly a highlight of the trip. Close

Looking for a beach vacation? This is it, with all the trimmings. Flawless weather (in July), lots of people but not overwhelming, plenty of touristy shops but also plenty of excellent shoe/purse/leather coat stores of all price ranges. Day trip to Granada / Alhambra: About 1.5…Read More

Looking for a beach vacation? This is it, with all the trimmings. Flawless weather (in July), lots of people but not overwhelming, plenty of touristy shops but also plenty of excellent shoe/purse/leather coat stores of all price ranges.

Day trip to Granada / Alhambra: About 1.5 hours from Malaga area through picturesque, hilly terrain. As the guidebooks tell you, reservations are almost mandatory; it's the most visited site in Spain. Although the Moorish castle was very cool - dramatic, beautifully restored, stunning mosaics, and amazing architecture - the fort and Charles V palace weren't any great shakes. There are only a couple of food options, none of which is very good. Plan at least half a day due to the way they schedule reservations, not necessarily because there's that much to see.

Day trip 2 to Ronda: Ancient, stereotypical Andalucian hill town reached by treacherously curvy mountain roads traveled by daring, slightly reckless drivers. But the drive is worth it. Perched over a huge crevice, the town features never-ending views from almost anywhere in town. The whitewashed buildings, narrow streets, old walls (and the first bullring in Spain) are a photographer's delight. Plan on stopping at any of the little cafes for a liter (pitcher) of sangria to cool off and rest.

Day trip 3 to Jerez and Arcos de la Frontera: Jerez is the center of the sherry wineries (bodegas), though we didn't go on a tour. We did attend the horse dressage show, and though it was well performed, it didn't hold our interest for the whole 1.5 hours. From there to Arcos, billed as the quintessential Andalucian town. Although it was also perched on a hillside and featured incredibly narrow streets, we found it less charming than the smaller Ronda. The drive through the country to return to Malaga is gorgeous.

Along the coast: Nightclubs abound (though we didn't explore any), restaurants clogging every street (you'll never go hungry visiting Spain), and traffic and more traffic. Marbella is very upscale, with all the designer stores plus some. The beach is very well maintained with lots of topless sunbathers, although you should be prepared for that on all beaches. We went to a couple of town markets (the markets rotate days, so there's one each day at a nearby town). Our favorite was at Fuengirola; it was large, not too crowded, and easy to get to, though a challenge to park. We also rode the cable car to the top of the nearby mountain, which gave absolutely fabulous views of the coast for miles - except it was hazy that day, so not perfect views.

We relaxed a couple days at the resort, lounging poolside, and thoroughly enjoyed our stay at the beautiful Costa del Sol.

Besides learning Spanish, enrolling in a course is a great way to meet people when traveling alone. I signed up for lessons through Instituto Alambra ( web site), which turned out to be economical as well as fun! At that time, the price for a…Read More

Besides learning Spanish, enrolling in a course is a great way to meet people when traveling alone. I signed up for lessons through Instituto Alambra ( web site), which turned out to be economical as well as fun!

At that time, the price for a two week course, including lodging in my own room in one of the institute's apartments, was about $350. At first, I signed up for intensive courses, but when I realized how much fun I could have in the afternoon when the sun was shining, I switched to mornings-only. The apartment I shared with four-seven other students was great, and included maid service, had a washing machine, and a terrace for drying clothes (and sitting and enjoying the view of the Mediterranean!) I visited the apartment of some other students, and it wasn't as nice, but it was fine.

I actually learned a good amount of Spanish while attending courses in the morning and doing homework exercises in the afternoon. Since I started there during the last week of April, I joined an intermediate class in progress and had to work hard to keep up. However, my second week overlapped with the beginning of May, when a whole slew of new students started. Our class of three grew to about eight, and things went considerably slower. Still, I thought the classes were good. Lessons were made fun by having students write about their lives, jobs, side trips, etc.

Most students were from Europe - with many from Germany - and at the time there was only one other American enrolled. English was the language most had in common, and we rarely spoke much Spanish outside of school (as we should have.) Most students were in their early 20s, but some - like me (31) - were in their 30s and 40s. After classes, most students had their siestas (some on the beach) and then we met up for a late dinner at the great local restaurant (see entry.) The school also organized day trips for students, and some struck out on their own or paired up for trips. I went to Sevilla with a friend I met at the school for a few days after classes ended and before I went home.

This program is also good if your main objective is to learn Spanish. For those more serious students, the school will arrange a home-stay, in which you live with a local family and have meals with them - all the while practicing your Spanish. Intensive courses and individual tutoring is also available.

Within an hour of Malaga are three driving destinations worth considering. If you are pressed for time, I would prioritize: Marbella first, Ronda next, and then Mijas (this was the only place where we had a sub-par meal). The old part of Marbella is a…Read More

Within an hour of Malaga are three driving destinations worth considering. If you are pressed for time, I would prioritize: Marbella first, Ronda next, and then Mijas (this was the only place where we had a sub-par meal).

The old part of Marbella is a place to visit at night and lends itself to walking aimlessly and exploring. La Fonda is a wonderful restaurant with an outdoor garden. I recommend the sangria coupled with melon con serrano. (It was our first night, and the experience was perfect, only made better by the fact that we had a Danish waitress who was adapting nicely to Spain.) Take time to check out the shops. There is a narrow cobblestone street we called "Tapas Row". (I don't know if there was an actual street sign!) Each restaurant--complete with overturned oak barrels serving as tables--was more inviting than the last. The tapas were only made better because Real Madrid was playing Barcelona in football/soccer--a very big deal for the locals, who crowded around every available TV. Witnessing real life adds to any trip!

Ronda is a wonderful town located in the mountains. The winding road is an incredible journey and worth the potential white knuckles! (If you are not driving, the tour bus circuit seems to visit here regularly.) An arched bridge constructed in the 18th century, the Puente Nuevo, connects the older and newer parts of the town. The views from the bridge overlooking the 300-feet deep gorge are stunning. It is also possible--and recommended--to take the trek down to the valley floor. This great hike provides a great perspective of the bridge's construction and local architecture.

If you visit Ronda for no other reason, go for the Plaza de Toros. Even if it is not bullfighting season (which ends in early November), there is an energy to the place. The red-tainted clay of the ring's surface, the reserved seating for medicos, and the historical exhibits of bullfighter apparel and promotional literature provide a sense as to whay may happen here. (Another benefit of visiting off-season is that one does not need to resolve any ethical issues with the activity of bullfighting in order to take in the experience!) My only shopping advice is to not buy your authentic Spanish fan souvenir here; there will be plenty of opportunity for that on the streets of every town you visit!

Mijas is a lovely cliff town dotted by whitewashed houses. Unfortunately, it has been overtaken by the tourist industry. Although there are some incredible shops peddling the wares of local artisans, the restaurants seem to have lost any authenticity they may have had. Ironically, there is a great English tea shop on the main drag. I would also recommend following the signs for the wine tasting. The proprietors offer local sherries and Spanish red wines to visitors in a lovely outdoor garden, the walls of which have been painted with a deep red paint. (The color makes a great backdrop for photos!)

Visits to these surrounding places really deepen one's appreciation of an amazing region of Spain. Vaya!

I flew into Sevilla and took a cab from Sevilla airport to Sevilla Renfe train station. It cost me about 18 euro. The train from Sevilla to Malaga on the Renfe was a wonderful experience. It cost 15 euro and the trip took two hours.…Read More

I flew into Sevilla and took a cab from Sevilla airport to Sevilla Renfe train station. It cost me about 18 euro. The train from Sevilla to Malaga on the Renfe was a wonderful experience. It cost 15 euro and the trip took two hours. But a problem reared its ugly head when I got to Malaga. Since it was relatively late and I was tired, I took a cab to Club Marbella and it cost 40 euro -- OUCH!

The ideal way to travel in Spain is public transportation. While staying at Club Marbella, I took the bus from Colohonda to Fuengirola and Marbella, which cost 1 euro. From Fuengirola, you can take the Renfe, which is one minute from the bus station to Malaga for about 3 euro. This can be to the Malaga Airport/Renfe station/downtown anywhere you want. The buses run about every 30 minutes along the Costa Del Sol and the trains to Malaga from Fuengirola run about every 15 minutes. There are four trains from Sevilla to Malage; just check out this website.

The first thing after deciding on where to go was where to fly. This was my first mistake of this trip. I did really no research into the airports in Spain and thought the only airports were Sevilla and Barcelona. So I purchased tickets from…Read More

The first thing after deciding on where to go was where to fly. This was my first mistake of this trip. I did really no research into the airports in Spain and thought the only airports were Sevilla and Barcelona. So I purchased tickets from British Airways to Sevilla, only realizing you can fly directly into Malaga.

There are many resources on the Internet to find out information about the resorts as well as trips from the different resorts. The one resource I highly recommend is contacting the resort and asking them what you want to know. I sent an email to Club Marbella and they were very responsive and very friendly.

Other resources I like were this site, Virtual Tourist, the malaga bus station and the club marbella/Crowne Resorts webpage.

I cannot emphasize this enough--prepare for your trip just enough to get you there and back. After that, enjoy where you are.