On our second evening in Ilulissat, my wife and I took the advice of some of the World of Greenland tour guides and made a dinner reservation at Restaurant Mamartut for some Greenlandic cuisine. We had the coolest hotel shuttle driver that evening. As we…Read More

On our second evening in Ilulissat, my wife and I took the advice of some of the World of Greenland tour guides and made a dinner reservation at Restaurant Mamartut for some Greenlandic cuisine. We had the coolest hotel shuttle driver that evening. As we were exiting the van with other passengers at the drop-off in the center of town, he asked my wife and me in broken English where we were going. He somehow understood my mangled pronunciation of the restaurant and motioned for us to stay in the van. He drove us several blocks up the hill to the entrance of the restaurant.

My wife and I were the first customers that evening at the restaurant. We were seated at a table near a large polar bear hide hanging on the wall. Gazing out the window, we had a great view of the colorful town with the icebergs of Disko Bay in the background. The food was pretty good. I had the fish soup and Greenlandic lamb for my first two courses while my wife had the shrimp dish and the fish plate for hers. We shared the dessert sampler which was excellent. It was a 3-hour dinner. The time between courses was very long.

Mamartut turned out to be our most expensive meal in Greenland. Its price converted to $144. However, this was not what bothered us the most since everything in Greenland is expensive. What really left a bad taste in our mouths was that the restaurant had charged us for tap water. This was the only restaurant we encountered during our trip that did this.

It was close to 10 PM when we left the restaurant and I was blown away by how bright it still was outside. During our walk to the shuttle pick-up point, we saw children riding bikes, a soccer game in progress at the field, and people out and about.

We had the same nice, shuttle driver who gave us door-to-door service earlier. He did not head directly back to the hotel. Instead, he drove through the neighborhood and dropped off two locals. When it was just my wife and me left, he continued driving through the residential areas where we saw more of the brightly-colored houses. I thought maybe this was a different route back to the hotel but I noticed the driver would slow down or stop anytime I took out my camcorder to record the scenery. I finally realized he was giving us a tour. The language barrier prevented any narration.

I noticed many of the houses had either a snowmobile or dog sled in the yard. These two modes of transportation are still common when the town freezes over in winter. The Greenlandic sled dogs are closely related to wolves. No other breed is allowed above the Arctic Circle in Greenland. There are approximately 5,000 dogs in Ilulissat (as many as people). During the summer, they are chained in large fields around the town. No matter where we were in Ilulissat, we always knew when it was feeding time by the sound that fills the air. These dogs don't do much barking. Instead, they howl, bow wow, and yelp. I had no idea what this strange chorus was during our first afternoon in Ilulissat because I had never heard anything like it. By the end of our stay, it was a sound I had come to associate with the town.

Our driver paused in front of a big dog field where hundreds of sled dogs were lazing in the sun. He then continued driving up into the hills past more Lego-like houses until we came to an endpoint with the most gorgeous view of the town and the bay. The driver motioned us to step out of the van for better pictures. We accepted his invitation but the photos just could not capture the beauty of this place.

After a short while, we got back in the van and were driven along the winding roads of the town back to our hotel. We were very appreciative of this driver. His marvelous, unexpected tour had etched a lasting memory of Ilulissat in our minds.
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We were groggy when we arrived in Iceland at 6:30 AM (2:30 AM EST) after our 6-hour flight from New York JFK. We had a 3-hour layover before our flight to Greenland departed, so we grabbed some breakfast and found a bench where my wife…Read More

We were groggy when we arrived in Iceland at 6:30 AM (2:30 AM EST) after our 6-hour flight from New York JFK. We had a 3-hour layover before our flight to Greenland departed, so we grabbed some breakfast and found a bench where my wife took a nap and I read an article about Greenland in the latest addition of Rolling Stone magazine of all places. What a coincidence.

Iceland was pretty much the same as I remembered it when we last visited in 2003. The weather was chilly, windy, and rainy as we walked across the tarmac to board the 50-seater IcelandAir Dash-8 prop plane.

It was a 3-hour flight between Keflavik, Iceland and Nuuk, Greenland. As I gazed out of the window, I saw nothing but white. I assumed I was looking at clouds since the weather was so crappy when we left Iceland. However, as we were making our descent on Nuuk, I realized I had not been looking at clouds our entire flight. I had been looking at Greenland's massive ice cap that covers 80% of the island.

Now that we were no longer over the ice cap, I could see brown snow-capped, rocky mountains and dark blue bodies of water. Descending lower still, I began to see the brightly colored buildings clustered on a stretch of brown-grey land almost as if someone had spilt a box of Skittles. The buildings were red, yellow, blue, green, purple, and other colors.

The Nuuk airport is very small. There were no visible customs officers or security checkpoints. There wasn't even anyone to stamp our passports. We just picked up our luggage and headed towards the young Greenlandic man who was holding a sign with our names written on it. His name was Peter. I was surprised he spoke English so well. He told us that all students in Greenland are required to learn Greenlandic, Danish, and English in school.

During the ride to our hotel, we couldn’t help but notice the bold colors of the buildings. Peter told us that there used to be a color code for building identification many years ago but these days, people paint their houses any color they want. It helps break up the monotony in winter when the city is snow-covered.

We also noticed a lot of construction both to the roads and buildings as we were being driven around. Peter told us that living this far north, the people have to take advantage of the short summer season to get all the construction done before the harsh arctic winter sets in.

After checking into Hotel Hans Egede, my wife and I headed out for a walk. Our hotel was located on a busy 2-laned street. There was a steady flow of cars and buses as well as people. As my wife and I walked the streets, I did notice a few double-glances. After all, there was no one who looked like us. However, I was struck by the friendliness of the people. They would smile and nod. A few curious people approached us with questions. One young lady, who spoke English very well, wanted to know if my wife braids hair. We met some other Greenlanders who didn't speak much English but wanted to know where we were from and what we like to eat. I think my most memorable conversation was with some older people who were trying to speak to us in Greenlandic. It didn't seem to matter that my wife and I didn't speak their language. The conversation was accompanied with a lot of handshaking, smiling, and Charades. I still have no idea what we were talking about.

We spent the rest of the day taking a city tour, visiting the Greenland National Museum, and dining at the Charoen Porn Thai Restaurant. All of these activities, except the restaurant, were a great introduction to Greenlandic culture - past and present. The next day, we boarded the flight to Ilulissat where we would experience Greenlandic societies above the Arctic Circle.
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Kangerlussuaq is not like the rest of the towns we visited in Greenland. The town exists because during World War II when Denmark was occupied by the Germans, Denmark could no longer protect Greenland. The U.S. agreed to protect the island and built a military…Read More

Kangerlussuaq is not like the rest of the towns we visited in Greenland. The town exists because during World War II when Denmark was occupied by the Germans, Denmark could no longer protect Greenland. The U.S. agreed to protect the island and built a military air base there. In those days, the base was known by its Danish name, Sondre Stromfjord. The U.S. held onto the base after WWII as a strategic location during the Cold War. In 1992, the U.S. sold the Sondre Stromfjord base to Denmark for the equivalent of $1. It is now known by its Inuit name, Kangerlussuaq. Today, it contains the only runway in Greenland long enough to accommodate large international jets.

During our stay in Kangerlussuaq, it was not uncommon to see military aircraft. For example, we often saw the large U.S. Air Force C-130 Hercules planes sitting on the runway. They are equipped with skis and are used to deliver supplies to scientists living on the ice cap. There was one afternoon when I joined other curious guests in the hotel lobby to watch two fighter jets roar in for a refueling stop. I couldn’t tell from which country they came but their loud landings and take-offs certainly had the attention of the whole town.

We had a considerable amount of down time in Kangerlussuaq. Despite our choice to nap during our down time, there are several things to keep guests busy when not away on an excursion. Hotel Kangerlussuaq has a handful of slot machines. Bicycles can be rented. There is a bowling alley on the other side of the runway as well as an indoor swimming pool. There is even a sandy golf course a short drive away from the airport.

There is a museum dedicated to the history of the base. It is located on the opposite side of the runway from Hotel Kangerlussuaq. Since it is dangerous and illegal to hop the fence and walk across the runway, we had to walk all the way around it. There is a "city" bus that we could have taken but we decided to walk since we had time to kill. It took us 45 minutes to walk there due to wrong turns. Unfortunately, when I went to the window to buy admission tickets to the museum, I was told they do not accept credit cards. I had no more cash because I got rid of it at the local grocery store when we bought sodas and snacks for our room. We wouldn't have time to go back to the hotel, exchange currency, and make it back to the museum before closing. Therefore, we just walked back to the hotel and chilled out until our 6 PM dinner reservation.

Two days in Kangerlussuaq was more than enough time for us. We only had interest in doing the 5-hour ice cap excursion. Although there were other activities to keep us busy while not on the tour, most of them were things we could do at home. Therefore, rather than spend money on those activities we opted to take walks and relax instead.
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Mosquitoes: The arctic is plagued by these pesky, biting insects in July and August. They are almost enough to drive a person insane. Bring a mosquito head net and insect repellent containing DEET. These items are sold in Greenland but I'm glad we bought them…Read More

Mosquitoes: The arctic is plagued by these pesky, biting insects in July and August. They are almost enough to drive a person insane. Bring a mosquito head net and insect repellent containing DEET. These items are sold in Greenland but I'm glad we bought them at home and not at the outrages Greenlandic prices. I paid $1.68 per mosquito head net at the Wal-Mart up the street from my house. Mosquito head nets were being sold at the equivalent of $14 in Greenland.

Sled Dogs: Greenlandic sled dogs are still used in winter but during the summer they are chained in large fields around town. They are the only breed allowed above the Arctic Circle in Greenland. These dogs are beasts of burden - not house pets. They are closely related to wolves and may bite if you come too close.

CITES Requirement: Common souvenir items in Ilulissat are rugs and clothing made from furs such as seal, fox, reindeer, and polar bear. There were also carvings (tupilak) and jewelry made from animal bones and tusk. Some of these items such as those made from walrus, polar bear, and whales are prohibited from being brought into the U.S. unless you show proof that the animal was not poached. Therefore, if you are considering purchasing these items, ask for a CITES certificate at the shops to verify the product will pass U.S. customs. There are some items made from certain species of whale that are flat out banned. The CITES documentation can help you determine which ones.

Dress in Layers: We visited Ilulissat in early July. I never needed more than a light jacket when walking around town; however, when out on boat trips, the wind coming off the icebergs and glaciers is near freezing. At those times, a fleece layer covered by a windbreaker is recommended along with gloves and a cap.

Language: The official language of Greenland is Greenlandic; however, since Greenland is a territory of Denmark, Danish is also widely spoken. Fortunately for us anglophones, most of the people I met either on the streets or at tourist locations spoke English fluently. In addition to Greenlandic and Danish, English is a required language in the Greenlandic school system.

Currency: The local currency is the Danish Kroner (DKK). There is an ATM machine at the bank in town that will dispense this currency but the ATM is only available during banking hours.

Credit Card Usage: I used my credit card for most purchases but I normally had to warn the merchants that my purchases require a signature as opposed to a PIN required by European credit cards. Although this caused confusion in many cases, most of the vendors eventually figured out the correct series of keystrokes to process my card. There was only one case where the vendor couldn't figure it out. I just used cash in that situation.

Seeing The Ice Fjord: The Ilulissat Kangerlua Ice Fjord is the main tourist attraction in Ilulissat. The local tour companies offer excursions that allow tourists to see this UNESCO World Heritage Site by land, water, and air. We saw it by hiking and by boat. It is quite spectacular. We didn’t do the helicopter ride because it was more expensive than we were willing to pay. However, we got a glimpse of the fjord from the air during our flight to Ilulissat. You can too if you get a seat on the right-hand side of the airplane when approaching Ilulissat from the south. Air Greenland flights do not have assigned seats, so make sure you are near the front of the line when boarding the plane to increase your chances of getting a good seat.

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Ever since a long weekend trip to Iceland back in 2003, I became curious about its gigantic neighbor to the west, Greenland. With an area three times the size of Texas, Greenland is the largest island in the world. 80% of it is covered by…Read More

Ever since a long weekend trip to Iceland back in 2003, I became curious about its gigantic neighbor to the west, Greenland. With an area three times the size of Texas, Greenland is the largest island in the world. 80% of it is covered by an ice cap as much as 2 miles deep. As we flew over the ice cap during our return flight from Iceland, I wondered who the people are who live in a place as inhospitable as Greenland appears from the air. It turns out, Greenland’s 57,000 inhabitants live in coastal towns and settlements – not on the ice cap.


During a phone conversation in 2007 with my mother, she mentioned that she saw on the local news that Air Greenland announced its first direct route from the U.S.. The 4-hour flight between Baltimore, MD and Kangerlussuaq, Greenland would occur twice weekly during the summer. I thought to myself, "Finally, an easy way to get to Greenland." Before this new route, a person would have had to do a transatlantic flight to Denmark before flying halfway back the way he/she came to Greenland.

I somehow managed to convince my wife to postpone the Caribbean cruise we were considering in favor of a trip to the arctic. In February 2008, I made reservations for the 8-day Ilulissat/Kangerlussuaq, Greenland vacation package offered by Borton Overseas travel agency. However, by March 2008, Air Greenland announced they were canceling their U.S. route mainly due to a projected profit loss and rising fuel costs. In April, I got a message from our travel agent indicating that Air Greenland and IcelandAir had worked out new arrangements for those who had signed up for the trip. Instead of flying Air Greenland from Baltimore, IcelandAir would fly us from one of their North American hubs to Keflavik, Iceland. From there, IcelandAir would fly us to Nuuk, Greenland where Air Greenland would fly us to Ilulissat to begin the Ilulissat/Kangerlussuaq package. I was pleased when I found out about this new plan because there was no extra charge; yet, two days were added and we were given overnights in two additional towns – Nuuk, Greenland and Keflavik, Iceland. We decided to leave from New York JFK International Airport since it is the closest IcelandAir hub to Philadelphia. Despite all the changes and complex itinerary, the whole trip went smoothly.
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The Greenlandic Buffet Farewell Dinner was included in our stay at Hotel Arctic. The buffet contained seafood such as smoked whale, shrimp, scallops, halibut, trout, and other smoked and dried fish. I tried just about all the items. Just like the lunch we had on…Read More

The Greenlandic Buffet Farewell Dinner was included in our stay at Hotel Arctic. The buffet contained seafood such as smoked whale, shrimp, scallops, halibut, trout, and other smoked and dried fish. I tried just about all the items. Just like the lunch we had on the Eqi Glacier boat trip earlier that day, all of the items were served cold. I prefer my seafood served hot but when in Greenland…

There were two types of smoked whale. One was black and the other was the color of cooked bacon. Both pieces tasted similar to soft, salty bacon but the black piece had a milder taste.

There were two fishes on the buffet I did not try. I can't remember if they were smoked or dried. In either case, it looked like they had been pulled out of the sea and placed on the buffet - eyes, fins, and all. Knowing they were cold and whole just messed with my mind too much.

There was a carving station and the meat there was served hot. Hurray! On that table was musk ox, reindeer (caribou), lamb, and fried whale. The musk ox and reindeer both tasted similar to roast beef; however, the reindeer was much more tender and flavorful. It was my favorite. The fried whale was rather tough to cut. It looked and tasted like steak but more salty.

My wife did not enjoy the buffet. She liked the shrimp but that was it. At this point in the vacation, she was really missing fruit and vegetables. Typical of our meals in Greenland, the closest thing to vegetables being served at this buffet was potatoes. Well, at least the potatoes were served hot.

After dinner, we were treated to a mini-concert from a Greenlandic choir. Some of the members were dressed in the national clothing. The choir sounded great. They sang hymn-like songs a cappella with tight harmony. I enjoyed their performance and the opportunity to taste some local food. The Greenlandic Buffet Farewell Dinner was a great way to end our stay in Ilulissat. Afterwards, we headed back to our room to pack for our early morning flight to our final Greenlandic town, Kangerlussuaq.

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Sunday morning, we took the 8:45 hotel shuttle to town even though our hiking excursion wasn't scheduled to begin until 10:15. Although we don't speak Greenlandic, we were headed to the 9 AM church service. I’ll explain...During our city walk tour the previous day, our…Read More

Sunday morning, we took the 8:45 hotel shuttle to town even though our hiking excursion wasn't scheduled to begin until 10:15. Although we don't speak Greenlandic, we were headed to the 9 AM church service. I’ll explain...

During our city walk tour the previous day, our guides took us by Zion Church. The construction of this Lutheran church was completed in 1779. We were told tourists are no longer taken inside during the tour because people had stolen hymnals in the past. How someone can have the conscience to steal from church is beyond me. One of our guides told us about how beautiful the singing is during the services. However, when she said that some of the songs are sang in Greenlandic and Danish at the same time, the curious musician in me would not let me miss this experience.

It was a little after 9 AM by the time we walked to the church from the shuttle drop-off. The church was packed; therefore, my wife and I decided to sit in the vestibule rather than trying to find a seat in the sanctuary. Additionally, being dressed for hiking, we would have felt really out of place.

Anyway, from what I could see, the interior of the church was simple but elegant. I loved all the lighted candles at the altar and at the end of each pew. However, what was unique about being at this service in Ilulissat was that many in the congregation were dressed in the national Greenlandic attire. The men wore loose white hooded shirts with a black bowtie, black pants, and white animal hide boots. The women's clothing was much more interesting. They wore pullover blouses adorned with colorful beads. They wore fur pants and tall animal hide boots. I wanted to take pictures as families entered the church but I thought that would have been tacky to do so at the time. Besides, there was a sign indicating no photography during service. This didn't seem to stop a handful of tourists hanging out in the back of the church from snapping away.

The only word I understood during the service was Amen. The congregation sang beautiful angelic hymns to the accompaniment of a small pipe organ. As for two languages being sung simultaneously, I couldn't tell. It all sounded foreign to me. We hung out in the church vestibule for about 45 minutes and then headed to the meeting point for our hike.

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Getting Around: Nuuk is a small city. This makes it convenient for tourists since most of the attractions are within walking distance. When walking is not desirable, there are taxis and public buses. In fact, there was a bus stop across the street from our…Read More

Getting Around: Nuuk is a small city. This makes it convenient for tourists since most of the attractions are within walking distance. When walking is not desirable, there are taxis and public buses. In fact, there was a bus stop across the street from our hotel, Hotel Hans Egede. Vehicle rental is also an option but we were told by a tour guide that many of the rental vehicles are old and not in the best condition. Additionally, driving is only possible within the city since no towns, cities, or settlements in Greenland are connected by roads.

Getting To Nuuk from the U.S.: Although it was not well publicized during the planning stage of our trip, there are seasonal IcelandAir flights between Keflavik, Iceland and Nuuk. This route eliminated the need to fly to Denmark and then to Kangerlussuaq, Greenland before flying to Nuuk.

Passport Stamp: Our arrival in Greenland at the Nuuk airport was the most laid-back foreign arrival we’ve ever experienced. There were no security checkpoints or customs officers. Consequently, there was no one to stamp our passports. We were told we could get our passports stamped at the post office if we desired. We didn’t bother to do it.

Make Dinner Reservations Early: We were hoping to try some local Greenlandic seafood for dinner during our only evening in Nuuk. We were told that the Nipisa Restaurant would be our best opportunity to do this. Unfortunately, we did not have reservations and the restaurant was booked solid. We ended up eating at the Charoen Porn Thai Restaurant instead since they had an open table. The food was good but reservations are recommended at this restaurant as well.

CITES Requirement: Common souvenir items in Greenland are rugs and clothing made from furs such as seal, fox, reindeer, and polar bear. There were also carvings (tupilak) and jewelry made from animal bones and tusk. Some of these items such as those made from walrus, polar bear, and whales are prohibited from being brought into the U.S. unless you show proof that the animal was not poached. Therefore, if you are considering purchasing these items, ask for a CITES certificate at the shops to verify the product will pass U.S. customs. There are some items made from certain species of whale that are flat out banned. The CITES documentation can help you determine which ones.

Language: The official language of Greenland is Greenlandic; however, since Greenland is a territory of Denmark, Danish is also widely spoken. Fortunately for us Anglophones, most of the people I met spoke English well. In addition to Greenlandic and Danish, English is a required language in the Greenlandic school system.

Currency: The local currency is the Danish Kroner (DKK). There are ATMs inside the Pisifik grocery store next to Hotel Hans Egede that dispense this currency. Just be aware that the ATMs are only available during store hours. Although I used the ATM to obtain petty cash, I used my credit card for all my purchases in Nuuk.
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Ice Cap Excursion Without the Barbeque: We paid extra for the barbeque option of this tour thinking it occurred during the tour. Instead, it occurred when were returned to town. Had we known this, we would not have paid for this meal. We would have…Read More

Ice Cap Excursion Without the Barbeque: We paid extra for the barbeque option of this tour thinking it occurred during the tour. Instead, it occurred when were returned to town. Had we known this, we would not have paid for this meal. We would have gotten lunch at one of the other eateries where there are more choices.

Know The Cash-Only Attractions: We walked 45 minutes to the museum only to find out they do not accept credit cards. I did not have any of the local currency (Danish kroner) with me at the time; and thus, could not enter the museum.

Know The Plate Of The Day Before Dining At Roklubben: We weren't aware there is no menu at this restaurant - just the plate of the day. Because of the remote location, everyone is shuttled there and back at the same time. This could be a long evening if the plate of the day is not your preference.

Mosquitoes: The arctic is plagued by these pesky, biting insects in July and August. Although they were not as bad in Kangerlussuaq as they were when we were further north in Ilulissat, you should still be prepared with insect repellent containing DEET and/or a mosquito head net (especially if you plan on hiking). These items are sold in Greenland but I'm glad we bought them at home and not at the outrages Greenlandic prices. I paid $1.68 per mosquito head net at the Wal-Mart up the street from my house. Mosquito head nets were being sold at the equivalent of $14 in Greenland.

CITES Requirement: Common souvenir items in Kangerlussuaq are rugs and clothing made from furs such as seal, fox, reindeer, and polar bear. There were also carvings (tupilak) and jewelry made from animal bones and tusk. Some of these items such as those made from walrus, polar bear, and whales are prohibited from being brought into the U.S. unless you show proof that the animal was not poached. Therefore, if you are considering purchasing these items, ask for a CITES certificate at the shops to verify the product will pass U.S. customs. There are some items made from certain species of whale that are flat out banned. The CITES documentation can help you determine which ones.

Dress in Layers: We visited Kangerlussuaq in early July. It was warm enough in town for me to wear a short-sleeve shirt (at least while the mosquitoes were not out). However, as one would expect, it was quite a different story when we did the ice cap excursion just 20 miles away. The weather became cold and windy. During this tour, a fleece layer covered by a windbreaker is recommended along with gloves and a cap. Also, it is a good idea to wear boots or shoes with good traction for your walk on the ice cap.

Language: The official language of Greenland is Greenlandic; however, since Greenland is a territory of Denmark, Danish is also widely spoken. Fortunately for us Anglophones, most of the people also speak English because it is a required language in the Greenlandic school system.

Currency: The local currency is the Danish Kroner (DKK). There are no ATM machines in Kangerlussuaq but money can be exchanged at the reception desk of Hotel Kangerlussuaq.

Credit Card Usage: I used my credit card for most purchases but I normally had to warn the merchants that my purchases require a signature as opposed to a PIN required by European credit cards.

Musk Ox Safari or Not: There is no need to sign up for this tour if you are doing the ice cap excursion. Your chances of seeing musk oxen are just as good on the ice cap tour – especially in July when the weather is too warm for the animals. We spoke to several tourists who told us they did not see any musk oxen during the 4-hour safari; however, we saw several on the ice cap tour. In either case, bring a good pair of binoculars.
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Prins Christian Sund is a 55-mile channel at the southern end of Greenland. After leaving the energy and color of Reykjavik yesterday, today will bring new vistas of a totally different type and we don't want to miss a minute of it. The Captain…Read More

Prins Christian Sund is a 55-mile channel at the southern end of Greenland. After leaving the energy and color of Reykjavik yesterday, today will bring new vistas of a totally different type and we don't want to miss a minute of it.

The Captain told us due to unstable and volatile weather cruise ships only make this itinerary once a year and even then are not always able to navigate the Sund. Sometimes it’s the fog, other times ice and icebergs blocking the passage, that prevent traversing the entire channel.

Today we were lucky. The weather gods smiled on us. As we entered the beginning of the channel, it was overcast, cold, and a little breezy. We're Florida folks, not well-versed in arctic weather gear, but we did our research well. We are equipped with layers beginning with silk long johns (Land's End and a great cold weather investment)sweats, all topped off with Goretex jackets and warm woolen hats.

As we moved deeper into the Sund, we were breathless with wonder. On each side of the fjord rugged rock cliffs plunge hundreds of feet straight down into the icy waters. Greenland? There is no green in sight. Huge glaciers from the Greenland Ice Cap cover many cliffs. Waterfalls are frozen ribbons running down the crevices of the rock. The landscape is "beautifully forbodding."

Progress is slow as the Captain navigates the maze of icebergs ranging in size from small car-sized to large house-sized. As we rounded on the many sharp turns in the channel,we realized we had been shielded from brunt of the elements by the cliffs. Forty-five mph winds and blowing icy rain hit us full force, almost taking us off our feet, and forcing us to retreat indoors. Time for a cup of hot coffee…did I mention Irish coffee?

Crew members told us there are over 10,000 icebergs calved by glaciers in this area yearly. They were as enthralled by the views as we were. A few times we feel the ship shudder slightly as we brush against small bergs. Can’t help but think Titanic!

Around midday we passed a small settlement of a dozen or so buildings perched precariously on the edge of the Sund at the foot of the cliffs. When the Sund is ice-bound, it can only be reached by helicopter (weather permitting). These are hardy people living in such isolation and harsh conditions.

By late afternoon we exit Prins Christian Sund and find that we not be making our port call in Qaqortog, Greeland. Apparently Hurricane Gustav is headed our way. Yikes! It’s hurricane season at home in Florida, but we never dreamed one would track us down way up here.

An abrupt about-course takes us back east trying to outrun the worst of the weather. For the next two days we were in thirty foot seas. As the bow of the ship hit an oncoming wave, it sounded like a bomb going off. Waves hitting the bow of the ship and would wash across the entire ship. It looked like something from a movie (ie: The Great Storm). Needless to say after getting a few great photos of this, the deck was closed down and passengers retained inside. In the dining room, the windows would occasionally dip below the water as we rocked and rolled our way through the fringes of the storm. One night we had to hold on to avoid being thrown from our bed.

Fortunately we do not suffer from seasickness. Luckily our table mates were equally hardy. Through it all none of us missed a meal... or our evening cocktail hour. It was quite an adventure!

On the third day, bad boy Gustav moved on and we continued our voyage toward New York City. Friends shuddered when we reported our adventure. Were we alarmed? Not really. The ship weathered the raging seas well and the crew kept us informed and confident that we were in no danger.

The only disappointment was missing our stop in Greenland. At least we experienced Greenland from the Sund and there’s always another trip!