Written by mediterranean_girl on 27 Jul, 2009
The fantastic thing about Spain (especially in Andalusia) is the tapas - tasty, ready-to-eat, two-bite portions of delicious food served at bars up and down the country. We’d been told that Seville is the capital of tapas so we decided to shun restaurants and toured…Read More
The fantastic thing about Spain (especially in Andalusia) is the tapas - tasty, ready-to-eat, two-bite portions of delicious food served at bars up and down the country. We’d been told that Seville is the capital of tapas so we decided to shun restaurants and toured the tapas bars instead. There was no end of dishes to try and no end of bars to try them in. Cost-wise eating tapas isn’t that much cheaper then a meal in a restaurant, but tapas really appeals to my love of pick and mix finger food and we had a great time eating (and drinking) our way around the city.We discovered a huge range of tapas bars on the street c/Mateos Gago, just east off the main cathedral piazza. Some, like the tapas bar pictured, were clean and air conditioned but felt more like a Paris bistro then a Sevillan tapas bar. Others were incredibly traditional - TV blaring the news in a corner, sticky floors littered with dropped serviettes with bartenders literally chalking up your bill on the countertop.Our favourite tapas bar on c/Mateos Gago was by far Bar Giralda, an excellent and popular bar, recommended by locals. The fantastically patterned floor to celling tiles lend wait to the fact that it’s supposedly a converted Moorish bathhouse. Inside was packed with waiters, locals and a few tourists, families gathered around rickety wooden tables were tucking in to good, traditional tapas. We sat outside on c/Mateos Gago with an almost direct, but unassuming, view of the cathedral at the end of the road. There was an English menu as well (though we stuck to the Spanish and hoped for the best). We ordered lots of tapas to share and I can barely remember all we ordered, but I do remember the croquets had us fighting to see who would get the last one and the stuffed peppers had the delicious taste of home cooking.Helpful Tapas Tips* Surprisingly, for such a central location, the bars were on c/Mateos Gago were predominately filled with locals. Then again we did tend to stick to local eating times - 1 o’clock lunches and 9pm dinners. * Prices varied incredibly, depending on how central or chic the tapas bar was. Overall we paid 2 Euro on average per tapas, which is probably an exorbitant price for locals, but realistic, considering we were always within spitting distance of the cathedral.* Remember that a 'tapa' is very small whilst a ración is a full plate of the same dish. * Generally all tapas bars serve the same traditional fare - jamon Iberico (local air-cured ham), Manchego cheese and croquettes - but looking around at menus I noticed some tapas bars were trying to be more inventive and modern. One place I saw was advertising cheese with raspberry sauce and a separate dish of eggplant with honey. So it’s worth looking at menus (sometimes outside in a frame on the wall near the entrance, sometimes inside chalked up over the bar). Close
Written by LenR on 17 Jan, 2009
During your Seville visit, you will find that travelling from your hotel to the numerous activities and attractions in the city will be fairly easy. Seville's city layout is quite easy to understand. The town centre lies within the boundaries of the old Arab…Read More
During your Seville visit, you will find that travelling from your hotel to the numerous activities and attractions in the city will be fairly easy. Seville's city layout is quite easy to understand. The town centre lies within the boundaries of the old Arab walls on the east bank of the Guadalquivir River and this is where you find most of the city’s attractions. These walls, which are visible in parts, enclose an area where it is difficult to drive a car. Streets are mostly still as narrow as in the Middle Ages, so buses generally don’t enter this area. The most practical way to get around here is to walk, enjoy the hustle and bustle, and when you feel tired just hail one of the many cheap taxis. Outside this area, and to travel around the perimeter of the centre, buses are the best option for getting around in terms of cost and destinations covered, while for comfort and convenience, taxis provide a better option. If you’re only in town for a short time and want to see as much as possible during your stay, then the hop-on, hop-off tourist buses are by far your best option.Public bus services in Seville are provided by the TUSSAM bus company and a total of 10 different routes operate on a daily basis. For visitors, the most useful services are the C1, C2, C3 and C4 circular lines which provide connections between city centre locations. Services commence at 06:00 and conclude at 23:45. Buses in Seville are easily recognised by their bright orange colour and are generally single-decker vehicles only.Here are a few hints when you decide to ride the buses in Seville. Exact change is appreciated when paying and after 9pm it is mandatory. There are a limited number of night buses with routes that typically end around 2am. Ring the bell if you want to get off at the next stop. You may need to push a button to open the door on some buses. Route maps can be obtained in the tourist office. You can also see where most buses go by looking at the map at the bus stop itself. People generally get in line for the bus, so you should put yourself behind the others already there but realise that at some stops not all people in line will want the first bus that comes along.Visitors requiring taxis will find hailing them in the street a fairly easy and reliable option at most times. Taxi drivers on the whole are not the best English speakers in the country, so arming yourself with a map or a phrasebook is a wise course of action. If you are staying at a reputable hotel, an English speaking hotel representative will usually call a taxi and explain the whereabouts of your desired destination to the driver on your behalf. Bus services travelling between the most popular sites in central Seville are available to tourists. Sightseers can get on and off the buses at whim in order to spend time exploring key areas. Purchase a ticket at the beginning of the day and ride as many times as you like for the duration of that day.Seville's tram finally opened to the public in October 2007 after much testing. At present the tram's route is short; just connecting Plaza Nueva with the Prado de San Sebastian bus station, a total of 1.3 km. This is generally though what is otherwise a pedestrian only area. The stops, from the center going further out, are Plaza Nueva, Avda. Constitución (in front of Correos), Puerta de Jerez (in front of Hotel Alfonso XII and the University) and Prado de San Sebastian (just next to the regional bus station). You can purchase single trip tickets at any of the stops using ATM like machines. The price per single trip is 1 Euro.Seville carriages are a city institution and the romantic way to tour the city. The horse carriages are widely available around the Cathedral with an official price of €30 - 40 an hour but you will find that they ask this even for a short trip. They seat four with the possibility of a fifth passenger seated next to the driver.A great option if you are staying in Seville for a week or more are the Sevici bikes which are available throughout the city with special docking stations that allow you to easily grab a bike and go wherever you need, then drop it off at another station when you arrive. Bikes cost 5 Euro for a week pass, which allows the first 1/2 hour free and subsequent hours are one Euro each. Close
Seville can really boast about its wide variety of parks, both private and public. The city has some of the most beautiful city parks in Europe, including the Park of Maria Luisa, as well as numerous plazas and open spaces where you can happily people…Read More
Seville can really boast about its wide variety of parks, both private and public. The city has some of the most beautiful city parks in Europe, including the Park of Maria Luisa, as well as numerous plazas and open spaces where you can happily people watch for hours. For a leisurely stroll, it's hard to beat the Paseo de Colon on the banks of the Guadalquivir River which stretches from the bridge leading to the interesting area of Triana to the historic Toro de Oro.The oldest garden remaining in Seville is the Patio de Los Naranjos (Orange Tree Patio). It was once part of the old mosque, where the worshippers washed their hands and feet in the fountains before prayer. The patio is now part of the city's cathedral. Also of the same period is the garden in the Casa de Contratacion (House of Trade) in the Alcazar. It has recently been restored with the addition of some handsome American palm trees. You will also see that the Alcázar has a host of other beautifully landscaped gardens. The parks and gardens include many that were the former private gardens and parklands of the city's nobility. Whether it is just a small square with surrounding trees or a larger open space, they are all peaceful places to relax. But don’t forget the small private gardens that you can see everywhere. Some of the prettiest have been developed on the concrete in areas such as Santa Cruz. You can often see them through the fence or gate.Here are a few public spaces which you could try for people watching and great relaxing.Parque de María Luisa - Avenida de la Borbolla, Paseo de las Delicias. This vast parkland in the centre of Seville is well planted and features an enormous amount of attractions. Named after Princess María Luisa, who donated part of the grounds from her Palacio de San Telmo to Seville in 1893, the park has been well designed and is heavily planted with trees, shrubs and flowers from around the world. The park's most impressive features are the Plaza de España and the Plaza de America.Delicias gardens - Paseo de las DeliciasThese were created during 1825-1835. In 1864 marble pedestals and busts were brought to this garden from the Gardens of the Archiepiscopal Palace of Umbrete and formally located in the Plaza del Museo. At the time of the Latin American Exhibition of 1929, the Pavilion of Guinea (which no longer exists) and the Pavilion of Morocco were constructed within extensions of these gardens. Catalina de Ribera gardens - Ave. Menéndez y PelayoThese gardens, nestling against the alcazar walls, were created in 1898 from the donation of a wide strip of the Huerto del Retiro. In these gardens is the monument to Caterina de Ribera, the work of Juan Talavera and Heredia.Murillo gardens - Avd. Menéndez y PelayoThe Murillo Gardens also stand adjacent to the Alcazar and contain many sculptures showing the artistic excellence of the Sevillian artists. The gardens were created by the cession made in 1911 by King Alfonso XIII from the Huerto del Retiro. In these gardens is the square dedicated to the painter García Ramos, which was erected on the initiative of his students. San Telmo gardensThis is the gardened area between the Avenue of Mª Luisa and the Avenue of the Rábida. The gardens originally belonged to the Palace of San Telmo and were granted to the City by the Church, the then owner of the area, to enable the construction of several pavilions for the Latin American Exhibition of 1929. They were used from 1958 to 1980 to host the Latin American Fair of Samples. Close
In the 16th century, a former branch of the Guadalquivir River was dried, and on its grounds the tree-lined Alameda Promenade was built. This vast open space near the center of Seville, is surrounded by Alamo trees, that give the place part of its name…Read More
In the 16th century, a former branch of the Guadalquivir River was dried, and on its grounds the tree-lined Alameda Promenade was built. This vast open space near the center of Seville, is surrounded by Alamo trees, that give the place part of its name – Alameda.Two marble columns were placed at the entrance in 1574. These came from a nearby Roman temple of the 2nd century. These are the oldest monuments in Seville. Since 1754 the columns in the Alameda de Hercules carry the statues of Julius Cesar and Hercules, who, according to legend, are the two founding fathers of Seville. Seville was supposedly founded by Hercules and its origins are linked with the Tartessian civilisation. It was called Hispalis under the Romans and Isbiliya with the Moors.Nowadays it is a lively neighbourhood with many different types of bars and terraces where you can enjoy morning coffee and breakfast, evening tapas and beer, or late night drinks. The area has a certain bohemian air, which cannot be found in other areas of Seville. We found it a good place to mix with a variety of people that were enjoying their leisure time on or around the Alameda. Every Sunday morning, an interesting flea market with antiques and second-hand goods takes place on the Alameda promenade.This area can be reached on a walking tour from central Seville. We started in Calle Jovellanos Gallegos, at the church of San Salvador, built in the 16th century and radically remodeled in Churrigueresque style at the end of the 18th century. It contains works by Montañés, including an "Ecce Homo", and a painting by Murillo.Some 500metres east of San Salvador by way of Calle de Aguilas, in the Plaza de Pilatos, is the 16th century Casa de Pilatos, built by Moorish and Christian architects. This is popularly believed to be a copy of Pilate's house in Jerusalem. It is in a variant of the Mudéjar style, modified by Gothic and Renaissance features. The house is laid out around a beautiful patio decorated with pieces of antique sculpture. A number of rooms are occupied by a museum of Roman sculpture.A little way north of here Pedro is the church of Santa Catalina, with a tower which was originally the minaret of a mosque. From Santa Catalina, Calle Gerona runs northwest to Seville's 15th century Palacio de las Dueñas, which has a beautiful Mudéjar-style patio.You now head almost west to the Alameda de Hércules and you will want to sit and take in the scene. Now that you are here it is worthwhile going to the west of the Alameda de Hércules to the church of San Lorenzo, with a beautiful high altar by Montañés and a much venerated figure of Christ, Nuestro Señor del Gran Poder (by Juan de Mesa), in a side chapel. Close
La Macarena is a popular neighborhood of Seville. The neighborhood is best known as being home to the Virgen de la Macarena whose wooden statue dates from the 16th century and can be found in the Basilica. We stayed in this area at the Hotel…Read More
La Macarena is a popular neighborhood of Seville. The neighborhood is best known as being home to the Virgen de la Macarena whose wooden statue dates from the 16th century and can be found in the Basilica. We stayed in this area at the Hotel Melia Macarena.Besides the Basilica de la Macarena, there are a number of other points of interest in this traditional neighborhood. The largest surviving portion of the medieval city walls, built largely by the ruling Arabs prior to the city's reconquest in the 13th century, spans from the Basilica (Puerta de la Macarena) to the Puerta de Cordob. This impressive, well-preserved 400-metre section in Macarena, is near the Andalucian parliament building. These are the remains of the city walls, or murallas, dating from the 12th century. It is said that Seville was once the most strongly fortified city in Europe. It was the Romans, probably under Julius Caesar, who constructed the first city defences. But the Almoravids, Moors who ruled Andalucia in the 11th and 12th centuries, were responsible for the simple but effective 6km-long walls. They were designed to defend the city against both enemy attacks and frequent floods from the river Guadalquivir. The murallas had numerous watchtowers and various gates, with a sentry path along the middle. In the 1860s however, the great walls were razed to allow municipal growth and development. Today only three gates remain: Puerta de Córdoba, Puerta Macarena and Postigo del Aceite, while towers you can see include the Torre de Oro (Golden Tower), by the river. The Macarena Gate and church are shown in one of the photographs. Puerta de Córdoba is a typical Moorish horseshoe arch. St Hermenegildo was martyred there in 578 and his church is behind the gate. Puerta Macarena, in front of the church of La Macarena, dates from the 2nd century AD. It was rebuilt after the Lisbon earthquake in the 18th century. Postigo del Aceite was where oil and fat entered the city. It was built in 1107 and reformed in 1573.The Parliament of Andalusia is found in the modern part of the Macarena, although like a number of structures it predates the 20th Century by many centuries. The pathway leading to the building is lined with palm trees and has a real tropical feel. The actual Parliament building was built in 1546 and up until 1972 it was a grand hospital (El Hospital de las Cinco Llagas). The Andalusian parliament (one of four regional legislatures in Spain) first met here in 1992. Further down the Ronda Historica, which is the broad thoroughfare that circles the enormous historic center of Seville is the Convento de los Capuchinos. Close
One of the great sightseeing highlights in Seville is the lovely cathedral (see my Seville Sightseeing journal) but there are many other churches and religious buildings just crying out for a piece of your time. Seville's parish churches display a fascinating variety of architectural styles.…Read More
One of the great sightseeing highlights in Seville is the lovely cathedral (see my Seville Sightseeing journal) but there are many other churches and religious buildings just crying out for a piece of your time. Seville's parish churches display a fascinating variety of architectural styles. Several are converted mosques with belfries built over their minarets, while others range through Mudejar and Gothic (sometimes in combination), to Renaissance and Baroque.Although our time was limited (when is it not?) we took the opportunity to see the following and we were not disappointed that we did.Iglesia del Salvador - Plaza del Salvador, Seville, 41002 In the historic centre of Seville, the Iglesia del Salvador was constructed on the remains of a mosque that dates back well over 1,000 years. With some remains of the mosque still present, this is a famous church located not far from the cathedral. Highlights include a tall bell tower, a collection of altarpieces dating back to the 18th century, fountains and large, established orange trees.Church open: Monday to Saturday - 08:45 to 10:00 and 18:30 to 21:00, 10:30 to 14:00 and 19:00 to 20:45 Sunday and holidays.Iglesia de San Julián - Plaza de San Julián, 2, Seville, 41003 The Iglesia de San Julián is a 14th-century Gothic-style church that is situated in a slightly inconvenient location south of the Alameda de Herculesl. Dedicated to the Patron of the town hall, the Virgen de la Hiniesta, this church has many beautiful features, such as a 400-year-old statue, sculptures, silver lights and an 18th-century altarpiece. The church is only open for limited hours: Monday to Friday - 18:30 to 20:30, Saturday - 18:30 to 21:00, Sunday - 09:30 to 12:30Iglesia de San Nicolás - Muñoz y Pabón, Seville, 41004The Iglesia de San Nicolás was built in the 18th century and is situated north of the more well-known Iglesia del Salvador. Highlights include five naves, a large altar, marble columns, ornate silverwork and some splendid sculptures, such as the statue of San José that was created in 1678.This church is also open for limited hours: Monday to Saturday - 19:30 to 20:30, Sunday - 11:30 to 12:30Iglesia de San Marcos - Plaza de San Marcos, Seville, 41002 This beautiful 14th-century church out towards the old city walls has much to offer visitors. Inside are several detailed, 17th-century baroque sculptures and outside, the large tower based on the minaret of an earlier mosque is an impressive feature of the chapel. In the plaza at the back of the church is the Convento de Santa Isabel, founded in 1490. It became a women's prison in the 19th century. The church dates from 1609. Its baroque portal, facing onto Plaza de Santa Isabel, has a bas-relief of the Visitation.Iglesia de San Ildefonso - Plaza de San Ildefonso, Seville, 41004 Built in the mid-19th century, Seville's Iglesia de San Ildefonso is full of numerous works of art, including paintings and beautiful, stone sculptures. The church has two impressive baroque-style towers that give the church a temple-like appearance. Situated in the historic centre of Seville, the individual Iglesia de San Ildefonso is near Iglesia de San Nicolás. Close
Written by LenR on 04 Jan, 2009
The cathedral and the Alcazar are clearly Seville’s most spectacular buildings but the city is graced with many other notable architectural masterpieces. Some are old, some are distinctive and all are worth a short piece of your time.Archives of the Indies.This is now housed in…Read More
The cathedral and the Alcazar are clearly Seville’s most spectacular buildings but the city is graced with many other notable architectural masterpieces. Some are old, some are distinctive and all are worth a short piece of your time.Archives of the Indies.This is now housed in a dignified Renaissance building adjacent to the cathedral. You will not miss the building but may be uncertain as to its use. The archive includes drawings, documents, plans of South American towns and much more. The building dates from the 14th-century.City Hall.This stretches between Plaza Nueva and Plaza de San Francisco in the heart of the commercial district. The two facades are quite different. The original Diego de Riano building from the 16th-century can be seen on the Plaza de San Francisco while the other side shows a 19th-century plasteresque front.The Bullring.This deep ochre painted building was built in the 1760s and is still used today, mainly on Sundays. It is one of the oldest and prettiest bullrings in Spain. There is an adjacent museum with English-speaking guides which opens daily. The statue of the matador outside the building is a highlight.University of Seville.Since the 1950s the University has occupied the old Royal Tobacco Factory building on Calle San Fernando. The factory was built in the 1750s and is said to have employed some 3000 female cigar makers at its peak including the mythical Carmen in Bizet’s opera. You are welcome to wander around the lower floors and courtyards.Torre de Oro.The Tower of Gold is on the banks of the Guadalquiver River close to the city centre. The twelve-sided tower was built by the Moors in 1220 as part of the city’s protection system. It is believed a chain was stretched across the river from here to another tower on the opposite bank. It now houses a small navel museum.Hospital de los Venerables.This interesting Baroque building in Santa Cruz was once a retirement home for priests. It is now often used for art exhibitions and there is a 20-minute guided tour to show you the building’s highlights. The outstanding room is the chapel where there are frescos by Juan Leal and an imposing pipe organ. Other areas of interest are the azulejo patio and the upstairs gallery.Museum of Fine Arts.This excellent collection is housed in the former convent of La Merced Calzada in El Porvenir within walking distance of the city centre. Most of the building dates from the 17th-century while the art work, including works by Leal, El Greco and Murillo spans several centuries. Close
For something completely different, I strongly recommend an exploration of this lovely neighbourhood. This was originally Seville’s old Jewish Quarter and was much favoured by the city’s nobles in the 17th century. Even today some of the white and ochre houses still rank amongst Seville’s…Read More
For something completely different, I strongly recommend an exploration of this lovely neighbourhood. This was originally Seville’s old Jewish Quarter and was much favoured by the city’s nobles in the 17th century. Even today some of the white and ochre houses still rank amongst Seville’s most expensive properties.There are several points of interest here but for me the highlight is just walking the twisting cobble alleyways and sitting in the delightful squares. Ochre-framed windows hide behind solid rectangular grills while at night wrought-iron lanterns cast shadows on the whitewashed walls. You can sit outside a bar, enjoy some tapas and watch the world go by, or wander through centuries-old gardens and relax on beautiful tiled benches.Wandering around the small squares lined with orange trees (especially Plazas Doña Elvira and Santa Cruz), getting lost in the maze of improbably narrow alleys, where the ancient houses lean so far towards each other that they almost seem to touch, and admiring the leafy patios of private mansions through their iron gates, will be one of the best experiences of your visit to Seville. We found it incredibly picturesque and full of history, with many old palaces, churches and hidden passageways and frankly it was very difficult to leave. If you too find it difficult there are a couple of hotels here including the Hosteria del Laurel (see my Seville Eating and Sleeping journal). Don't miss Callejon del Agua, a narrow, shaded lane which follows the Alcázar’s garden walls and is named after a watercourse which ran along here. At the end of it is Plaza Alfaro, said to be inspiration for the balcony scene in Romeo and Juliet. Stop at the outdoor cafe and enjoy the burst of colour from the bougainvillea. Next to this is the delightful Plaza Santa Cruz, with rose beds bordered by hedges and an intricate 17th-century wrought iron cross in the centre, which commemorates the church destroyed by the French in 1810. Throughout this area you are likely to stumble on guitar players either practicing or playing together with friends. Some will be looking for a tip but others completely ignore the passing crowd.Murillo, one of Spain's most important painters, was born in Plaza Santa Cruz and you can visit his house in Calle Santa Teresa where there's a small museum. In Plaza Refinadores, a small square between Plaza Santa Cruz and Calle Santa María La Blanca, there's a statue of Don Juan Tenorio, one of Seville's most famous literary characters. More guitar players can be found in plaza de Dona Elvira with its fountain and painted tile benches. You have not felt the soul of Seville until you have spent at least an hour or two here amid the flower-filled patios, mansions and palaces, whitewashed houses, geraniums and orange trees, taverns and pavement cafés. If you get slightly lost while you wander around consider it a bonus and be glad about it.There are, predictably, many tourist shops selling typical tourist fare such as inferior quality azulejos (tiles), flamenco dress-style aprons and T-shirts with slogans. But there are also some individual, interesting artisan stores. Close
Written by LenR on 15 Dec, 2008
In Spain, eating tapas is like coffee and croissant in Paris - it's a key part of life and integral to local culture, both gastronomically and socially. To go on a 'tapas crawl' - is how most Sevillanos spend their evenings out. You can eat…Read More
In Spain, eating tapas is like coffee and croissant in Paris - it's a key part of life and integral to local culture, both gastronomically and socially. To go on a 'tapas crawl' - is how most Sevillanos spend their evenings out. You can eat as little or as much as you like, and you can usually find somewhere serving food, whatever the time of day. The seafood and ham are especially good here.There are hundreds of tapas bars in Seville, on main streets and tucked away in little side alleys. In some tapas bars you have to order at the bar and collect the tapa yourself when it's ready (usually in a matter of minutes), while at others you'll have the option to sit at a table and be served by a waiter - and may be charged extra for the privilege. A tapa will generally cost between 1.50 and 2 Euros.I strongly recommend one evening of tapas eating but at other times you might decide a restaurant is more your scene. I have previously recommended the restaurants in the Hotel Alfonso XIII (expensive) and the Hosteria del Laurel (cheap) but there is a great range outside the hotels.These are more expensive than tapas bars; expect to pay at least 5 Euros for a starter (primero plato) and 8-10 for a main course (segundo plato) while in the top places it'll be more like 15 and 25 Euros. Some restaurants have a menú del día, a set three-course meal, with dishes such as gazpacho to start and solomillo (pork fillet) or merluza (hake) as a main course. Menús cost from 8 Euros and are usually good value. Restaurants (and bars) generally open from about 12.30 - 16.00 and 20.00 - 24.00 - the typical time for lunch is at about 2.00pm while it appears that many Sevillanos have their evening meal at around 10.00pm. We usually ate earlier than this. Santa Cruz was my most popular neighbourhood in Seville so here are two recommended restaurants from that area.La Albahaca at Plaza Santa Cruz 12The square itself is an atmospheric dining location. In summer, you can eat outside and enjoy the exquisite square with its orange trees and rose beds; in winter, it is better to dine in the converted palace beautifully decorated with antique furniture, reproduction paintings and exquisite tiling. Prices are very high so this one is for special occasions only; there's also a set menu for 27 Euro.San Marco at Mesón de Moro 6, They have good pizza and pasta, as well as other authentic Italian dishes such as prosciutto. But the real attraction here is the setting; perfectly preserved 12th century Arabic baths, with wonderful stone arches. Spanish desserts aren't much to shout about, so treat yourself to the irresistible tiramisu, cheesecake with raspberry coulis, or chocolate marquis with pistachio sauce.One final choice is La Taberna del Alabardero at Zaragoza 20. This is not in Santa Cruz. This place is perhaps the best-regarded restaurant in town. It's actually part of a renowned hotel school. A typical starter is pastel de berenjenas y gambas de Huelva con salsa mariscada (aubergine and prawn terrine with shellfish sauce). The Salmonete (red mullet) is a big local favourite here. It's cooked with garlic, leek and black olive oil. Carnivores can try cochinillo confitado al aceite, pina y cogollo (suckling pig confit in olive oil with pineapple and lettuce hearts). The school is housed in a converted 19th century mansion and also includes a hotel and an informal restaurant on the ground floor offering a weekday lunch menú for 10 Euros. Close
Written by jaebirdypie on 14 Jul, 2003
This, my fellow travelers, is an attempt to pass along some very useful tips which can't be found in any travel book. Enjoy, take heed, and be wise!
Do NOT say or expect to see the word "baño" when seeking the restroom...it is the equivalent…Read More
This, my fellow travelers, is an attempt to pass along some very useful tips which can't be found in any travel book. Enjoy, take heed, and be wise!
Do NOT say or expect to see the word "baño" when seeking the restroom...it is the equivalent of our slang term "crapper". Instead, say or look for the word "aseo", which is far more polite!
Do not wear synthetic fabrics, even in wintertime--with all the walking you WILL roast! I tend to feel very cold year round, but in Sevilla I was sweating to death in the crisp December air. Wear natural, cotton blends and layer them as needed. That's what the Spaniards do.
Beware of sneakers and the so-called "good shoe". The streets and sidewalks are paved with a marble blend much different than what most are used to in the USA. Just add a little water and you'll take off like a rocket. I've found that the very shoes I thought treacherous were the safest to wear and basically lived in block-heeled boots the entire trip.Beware of judging too harshly the gypsy groups hanging out near top attractions. They are harmless and deserve respect, but will try to clean your shoes or perhaps sell you something at an expensive price. Often a polite "No, gracias" will do.Do not say no to a glass of wine with your tapas unless medically necessary...everyone will think you're crazy! Besides, it's very fruity and delicious!
Do not be afraid to try everything that is served to you, even if you're not sure what it is. Trust me, there's no such thing as bad food in Sevilla!Last but not least, do not eat the bitter oranges. While some may find them easy to ingest, we've been told it's better to play safe. I leave you with the words of one of my guides: "These are bitter oranges. Only the Japanese are brave enough to eat them. You may take and eat, but remember...the bathroom is waiting for you!"