A Brief Stay at the Old Darling Hotel (aka the quick hijack-bait-and-switch) By Hun Ohm Spend enough time roving around a country, and you’re bound to encounter more than your fair share of stories regarding accommodations. Here’s one of our brief cautionary tales: When we arrived in…Read More

A Brief Stay at the Old Darling Hotel (aka the quick hijack-bait-and-switch)
By Hun Ohm

Spend enough time roving around a country, and you’re bound to encounter more than your fair share of stories regarding accommodations. Here’s one of our brief cautionary tales:

When we arrived in Hanoi, we took a cab from the airport and requested the Prince Hotel in the Old Quarter. When we arrived near what looked like the Prince, a man who said he worked for the Prince shoved his way in to our cab to show us the way to yet another hotel (called the Old Darling Hotel), claiming the hotels were all related, and that the Prince was full. After looking at this one, we did decide to take it, but rather reluctantly since the whole set-up was so sketchy. It was located on the edge of the Old Quarter, so the district was accessible enough. The rooms were large, with private bathroom, but not cozy at all, kind of in a, well, bus station sort of way. Several guests we ran into had had similar experiences and were less than enthusiastic about their stay there, but we all agreed that you must roll with certain things in Vietnam.

The guys at the front desk were a bit shady and tried to make us pay an additional "tax" on the rate when we checked out, even though we had explicitly agreed upon a rate "inclusive" of tax before checking in. It’s a somewhat common ruse (or source of confusion, depending on who you ask). Either way, make sure you’re as clear as possible when discussing rates (though even then, you could run into problems as we did). The whole situation epitomized the most tiresome part of Vietnam for us, and we were glad to leave for the happier Hanoi Star hotel after only one night (see my other entry). We paid $15 for the night, but rates are very negotiable. We don’t include any contact information here because, honestly, we wouldn’t recommend this place to anyone if they have options. There seemed to be a number of "Old Darling"-named institutions around the touristy areas that may or may not be affiliated with this guesthouse. We didn’t explore those entities, because either fairly or unfairly, the guesthouse of similar name soured us on all Old Darlings. But if you’re in a real bind, sometimes you have to just take what is offered for a night or two. And, in all fairness, we slept our night, ate breakfast, and still had all of our possessions when we left, so we know it could have been worse.

One positive aspect of staying in the Old Darling Hotel is that we briefly met an older Norwegian man who had just arrived from Europe. Little did we know that we would meet him again some five weeks later in Laos during a four-day kayak trip through the northwestern wilderness. A most fortuitous reunion with a fascinating individual, and we have the Old Darling Hotel to thank for it.

So it all worked out fine for us, we're glad to say. The lesson learned? Well, just keep in mind that despite your best efforts, you can be literally "taken for a ride" when traveling in Vietnam. It can throw you off, certainly, but try not to let it ruin your stay. Good things can result from these unexpected twists and turns.Close

I discovered a spot which gave a wonderful view of the Lake. I had a few good doses of mochaccino here to chill out and hide away temporarily from the crowds and the noise. Highlands Coffee is located on the fourth floor of the tallest…Read More

I discovered a spot which gave a wonderful view of the Lake. I had a few good doses of mochaccino here to chill out and hide away temporarily from the crowds and the noise. Highlands Coffee is located on the fourth floor of the tallest block of buildings at my favourite junction! (see Hair Raising Activity 1)

Little Hanoi restaurants are dotted around the Old Quarter. The ones I had been to have comfortable atmosphere and reasonably appealing list of dishes on their menu. Not bad prices too. Certainly not the same kind of experience as having one’s meal while sitting with knees under one’s chin on a tiny stool by the side of the street.

As for the nightlife, Funky Monkey is a cool place to hang out. My favourite poison is the Halida beer, which is slightly cheaper than the old favourite Tiger. Not by much mind you, but certainly gives a fuller lager taste. Funky Monkey is a little club in Hang Hanh. A couple of other interesting night spots in Hanoi are the Minh’s Jazz Club (at Luong Van Can) and the Phuc Tan Bar on the shores of the Red River.

With limited time in Hanoi and in the spirit of ambling along absorbing the unique culture that is Hanoi – its sights, sounds and smell - the Old Quarter is definitely a good start. There is tons to do in Hanoi, like the museums, more art galleries, and the shopping, one can literally spend another few days, which I obviously have not had the opportunity to do.

There were so many old shops, and each street crisscrossed the other, traditionally selling the wares the name of the street implied. In today’s terms, e.g. Hang Trong – means the street which essentially sells drums (although I haven’t seen any), Hang Gai – sells…Read More

There were so many old shops, and each street crisscrossed the other, traditionally selling the wares the name of the street implied. In today’s terms, e.g. Hang Trong – means the street which essentially sells drums (although I haven’t seen any), Hang Gai – sells clothes/silk/shoes (traditionally sold hemp).

What I liked best about Hang Trong is that it has a number of art galleries with artists boldly in action, reproducing oil paintings by old masters. I called these the ‘reproduction factories’. Having said that, I was impressed with their skills. I eyed a couple of Dali paintings which were going for between USD 30 – USD 45. Alas, I didn’t have the luggage space to lug them home halfway around the world! What a pity. Sure would look stunning in my lounge!

The street noise was amazing. To be honest, the incessant tooting and honking of mass motorbikes on narrow streets of the Old Quarter can be annoying after a while. Sure it was daunting at first, and even exciting, but 3 days of noise, haggling and constantly saying ‘no, thank you’ to all proposals to purchase one service/goods or another, could give one nightmares for weeks.

In Hanoi, you need to be on your guard. There are several types of annoyances, from overeager postcard sellers, to insane motorists, and finally, young teenage boys with nasty ideas in mind. We ran into several of them in a single night. Post-card sellers…Read More

In Hanoi, you need to be on your guard. There are several types of annoyances, from overeager postcard sellers, to insane motorists, and finally, young teenage boys with nasty ideas in mind. We ran into several of them in a single night.

Post-card sellers and other vendors operate on the streets, especially in the Old Quarter and around Hoan Kiem Lake. They are very eager to sell you maps of the city and postcards of Vietnam. These postcards are not of the best quality, but since they are very cheap, I recommend you buy something. You are encouraging entrepreneurship and you might even have a fun conversation with the young boys and girls that do this. Unfortunately, if you've already bought your quota of postcards and are merely trying to get on your way, some postcard sellers do not take it so well. For us, the worst thing that happened is that the boy shouted very loudly in our eyes that we were fat. I thought of several clever comebacks much later.

Several people have written forums about crossing the road in Hanoi. It is indeed harrowing. You really must walk across slowly and hope you do not get hit. At the same time, the sidewalks are covered with parked scooters and street vendors. You will have to walk in the street at most times in the Old Quarter. People will even back their motor scooters into you, and my response to this was putting a hand on their back to let them know I was there. It's amazing to watch three or four people, including babes in arms, riding on a little scooter.

The only real danger we encountered was when we were taking an evening stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake. It is not very well lit, but there are many other people young and old strolling around the lake. After passing the bridge to the pagoda, a young man came up and asked our names. He told us he wanted to practice English. All seemed normal and then I glanced behind us. 5-6 young men were following us, and getting closer. I put my hand on my partner's backpack and gave them a look. Very shortly thereafter, the young man who wanted to practice English with us said very quickly that he had to go and all the boys ran off. I'm not sure what their plans were, whether to mug us, pickpocket us while we weren't looking, or maybe take advantage of us in an even worse way. I am just glad I was alert and aware.

That said, the next day, we met two lovely young college girls and had a great conversation with them about Vietnam and America. I compared Boston to Hanoi, saying it was where our revolutionary war started, when we threw off the English and declared ourselves independent. While we talked to them, some postcard sellers approached us, but other than that, I couldn't detect any scam. So don't be suspect of anyone who wants to practice English, but be aware of what is going on, particularly if it is late at night.

Hanoi Airport is a bit utilitarian looking after Singapore you-will-spend-money Airport, but after 34 hours of travel time I wasn’t complaining. Ky, Untour’s Hanoi rep, met me at the airport and we took a taxi to the bank where I became a millionaire by exchanging…Read More

Hanoi Airport is a bit utilitarian looking after Singapore you-will-spend-money Airport, but after 34 hours of travel time I wasn’t complaining. Ky, Untour’s Hanoi rep, met me at the airport and we took a taxi to the bank where I became a millionaire by exchanging $100 for about 1,500,000 Vietnamese dong. The ATM's work well, too: the instructions are in English, the rates are good, and they give you a handy-dandy account balance, which helps after you’ve done a little too much shopping. Hanoi Airport is a bit utilitarian looking after Singapore you-will-spend-money Airport, but after 34 hours of travel time I wasn’t complaining.

Ky, Untour’s Hanoi rep, met me at the airport and we took a taxi to the bank where I became a millionaire by exchanging $100 for about 1,500,000 Vietnamese dong. The ATM's work well, too; the instructions are in English, the rates are good, and they give you a handy-dandy account balance, which helps after you’ve done a little too much shopping.

The taxi took us through the dusty, eclectic melange of colorful buildings and open storefronts, and we arrived at the townhouse (5 Le Van Huu, residential section) that was to be mine for a week. The green door in the creamy yellow building stuck a bit, but that’s just a part of this tres grande but charming place. I felt like I had gone back in time (and was an imperialist swine pig, but that’s another story) when I saw the huge mosquito net draped bed and the high ceilings and lovely touches in the study and the living room. The propane stove sent up a rather exciting but practical flame, the bathtub hot water heater worked well and noisily, and the air conditioners were very helpful . . .all the mod cons!

After settling in and taking a SHOWER (hallelujah) Ky came back and we went to dinner -- via his motorbike. Motorbikes are the main form of transport, which is a jolly good thing as that many cars would make for impossible conditions. You can find motorbike taxis anywhere, and for about $1 get to anyplace you’ve got the name of. All these motorbikes do make for interesting street crossing, but if you just keep going once you’ve started you do fine. At least, I never got hit, and that’s pretty good considering my ability to crash into things wherever I’m walking.

The dinner involved a crab soup, some wonderful spring rolls, shrimp, and a squid and veggie dish, accompanied by views of the lovely lake and by traditional music played by costumed musicians. Quite nice, and about $20 for two, not cheap by Vietnamese standards, but definitely a $50 for one meal at home! The city at night looked magical with the huge lake reflecting the lights, and the motorbike ride back stirred up a breeze that was lacking when one was standing or walking. It must be said that the weather in July is hot and sticky . . . not unlike Philadelphia during the same time. (Hot as in 90’s Fahrenheit, sticky as in enough humidity that it rained some part of just about every day, which made things feel better for about five minutes.)

Life starts early in the morning in Vietnam, and the next day I was up by 6:30am to have my bowl of pho, noodle soup that is sold in stalls all around. This one, with a beef broth, was delicious and particularly suited to the chill of being soaked from the rain while exploring the neighborhood. Everybody settled in together on the ubiquitous little plastic chairs and slurped it in. At 5000 dong it wasn’t going to break the bank either. Market ladies with baskets balanced on poles from their shoulders were everywhere, and a bicycle basket of roses tempted me to buy some more for the house. I got tomatoes and cucumbers, too -- more than I needed, but it’s hard to explain that you only need one cucumber when five of them cost about 20 cents.

In the afternoon, after visiting Uncle Ho, I ventured out in a cyclo (pedicab) for a tour of Hanoi. Let me state here, first, that you should always establish a price for this ahead of time, maybe even in writing. The drivers will, of course, spin the tour out for as long as possible, but the price per hour that they give you at the beginning becomes quite a lot more (per hour) at the end. Understandable and natural, but again, something best established up front. With this caveat done, let me say that a cyclo is a great (although slow) way to see the city. We went to a church and pagodas and Lenin (Independence) Park, but Maison Centrale, a/k/a the Hanoi Hilton, was the most interesting site to me. Although most of it was knocked down for a new high-rise, (and there is a luxe Hilton in Hanoi now) it is a sad reminder of the many prisoners who suffered there. Of course the emphasis is on the Vietnamese prisoners of the French--guillotine is still there--and on how well the Americans were treated, comparatively speaking! I went to Perfume Pagoda the next day.

Halong Bay (July 08-09) The nice man on the red motorbike picked me up and took me to a cafe from which I was put in a van to sit a bit and then into a little bus, setting the tone for the vehicle switching of the two days. (It all worked out nicely . . .just pack light.) The long ride to Halong Bay gave us agrarian views and a fairly commercial rest stop; when we finally arrived, the bus group, including four lasses from Dublin and some French folks, had lunch at a hotel. It was served family style, and it, as were all the meals, was included in the $28 price for the trip.

Since I was sleeping on the boat, I got trotted off with another small group to a dragon boat, which was lovely and nicely taken care of, with curtains and bench covers and patterned tables down in the spacious cabin area. We stopped at some lovely limestone caves and trekked on through, discovering stalactites, stalagmites, and penguin trashcans along the way. (The penguins are ubiquitous, if not native--at least, as trashcans.) From there, we sailed through the mist and the dragon like formations of Halong Bay, watching as an exciting thunderstorm built up and rolled on in. It was great, if a bit soggy, watching it on the deck.

At Cat Ba Island, we stopped for some of the folks to get off and for some of us to transfer to another, similar boat, on which we were served dinner and given sleeping accommodations: a fan-cooled cabin with a vibrantly patterned blanket on the bed and fringe-y curtains hanging about. It was terrific for sleeping, even though the generator that provided for this and five other boats moored nearby was a bit noisy at first. Before dinner there was swimming and sunset-watching time. The swimming is probably a good idea as the shower accommodations are a bit primitive: a hand-held shower in the loo, with naught but cold water.

The sun was shining as we sailed back, making for great pictures of some of the folks who live on the bay in houseboats and of the junks that still sail the waters. We came back to Halong City, had lunch, and went back on the bus to Hanoi -- only this time with a much larger group. I have no idea how the guides sort everyone out, but it worked for me!

Temple of Literature, Wandering around the Lake The Temple of Literature is a rather lovely courtyard complex with tableted tortoises bearing the names of scholars as its major point of interest. There are also quite a number of chirping birdies in the trees and souvenir shops in the side buildings. It’s a nice peaceful wander. I walked from there to the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum grounds again, then got myself quite lost in a twisty maze of residential alleys (where capitalism is still thriving, thank you very much, in the shops and businesses on the lower levels of the buildings.) I found myself by taking a moto to Hoa Kiem Lake, where a lovely 72-year-old Vietnamese lady shared her umbrella as it had started to absolutely pour. The umbrella did, in fact, very little good as it turned inside out, but we had a very enthusiastic conversation about her children and my visit to Vietnam.

After we parted, I went across the flamingly red bridge to the N’goc (turtle) Pagoda with its charming paintings and also charming souvenir shop where I got a (you guessed it) charming metal cyclo complete with fringed awning. Even though I was still soaking wet and therefore chilly, I got some green rice ice cream as I circled the lake: interesting but indistinct flavor. Shortly thereafter was a meeting with Van the Sapa man, a super salesman who was, in fact, interesting to talk to and who thinks that it’s time for changes and who wants to go back to Sapa to be a tour guide. He sells extremely expensive postcards, which seems to be a fairly usual occupation for young men of Vietnam who have good language skills.

Vietnam was fascinating and beautiful; most people are friendly and seem eager to talk to foreigners. I had a great time. The taxi took us through the dusty, eclectic melange of colorful buildings and open storefronts, and we arrived at the townhouse (5 Le Van Huu, residential section) that was to be mine for a week. The green door in the creamy yellow building stuck a bit, but that’s just a part of this tres grande but charming place. I felt like I had gone back in time (and was an imperialist swine pig, but that’s another story) when I saw the huge mosquito net draped bed and the high ceilings and lovely touches in the study and the living room. The propane stove sent up a rather exciting but practical flame, the bathtub hot water heater worked well and noisily, and the air conditioners were very helpful...all the mod cons! After settling in and a SHOWER (hallelujah) Ky came back and we went to dinner--via his motorbike. Motorbikes are the main form of transport, which is a jolly good thing as that many cars would make for impossible conditions. You can find motorbike taxis anywhere, and for about $1 get to anyplace you’ve got the name of. All these motorbikes do make for interesting street crossing, but if you just keep going once you’ve started you do fine. At least, I never got hit, and that’s pretty good considering my ability to crash into things wherever I’m walking. The dinner involved a crab soup, some wonderful spring rolls, shrimp, and a squid and veggie dish, accompanied by views of the lovely lake and by traditional music played by costumed musicians. Quite nice, and about $20 for two; not cheap by Vietnamese standards, but definitely a $50 for one meal at home! The city at night looked magical with the huge lake reflecting the lights, and the motorbike ride back stirred up a breeze that was lacking when one was standing or walking. It must be said that the weather in July is hot and sticky...not unlike Philadelphia during the same time. (Hot as in 90’s Fahrenheit, sticky as in enough humidity that it rained some part of just about every day, which made things feel better for about five minutes.) Life starts early in the morning in Vietnam, and the next day I was up by six thirty to have my bowl of pho, noodle soup that is sold in stalls all around. This one, with a beef broth, was delicious and particularly suited to the chill of being soaked from the rain while exploring the neighborhood. Everybody settled in together on the ubiquitous little plastic chairs and slurped it in. At 5000 dong it wasn’t going to break the bank, either. Market ladies with baskets balanced on poles from their shoulders were everywhere, and a bicycle basket of roses tempted me to buy some more for the house. I got tomatoes and cucumbers, too--more than I needed, but it’s hard to explain that you only need one cucumber when five of them cost about 20 cents. In the afternoon, after visiting Uncle Ho, I ventured out in a cyclo (pedicab) for a tour of Hanoi. Let me state here, first, that you should always establish a price for this ahead of time, maybe even in writing. The drivers will, of course, spin the tour out for as long as possible, but the price per hour that they give you at the beginning becomes quite a lot more (per hour) at the end. Understandable and natural, but again, something best established up front. With this caveat done, let me say that a cyclo is a great (although slow) way to see the city. We went to a church and pagodas and Lenin (Independence) Park, but Maison Centrale, a/k/a the Hanoi Hilton, was the most interesting site to me. Although most of it was knocked down for a new high-rise, (and there is a luxe Hilton in Hanoi now) it is a sad reminder of the many prisoners who suffered there. Of course the emphasis is on the Vietnamese prisoners of the French--guillotine is still there--and on how well the Americans were treated, comparatively speaking! I went to Perfume Pagoda the next day. HaLong Bay (July 08-09) The nice man on the red motorbike picked me up and took me to a cafe from which I was put in a van to sit a bit and then into a little bus, setting the tone for the vehicle switching of the two days. (It all worked out nicely...just pack light.) The long ride to HaLong Bay gave us agrarian views and a fairly commercial rest stop; when we finally arrived, the bus group, including four lasses from Dublin and some French folks, had lunch at a hotel. It was served family style, and it, as were all the meals, was included in the $28 price for the trip. Since I was sleeping on the boat I got trotted off with another small group to a dragon boat, which was lovely and nicely taken care of, with curtains and bench covers and patterned tables down in the spacious cabin area. We stopped at some lovely limestone caves and trekked on through, discovering stalactites, stalagmites, and penguin trash cans along the way. (The penguins are ubiquitous, if not native--at least, as trash cans.) From there we sailed through the mist and the dragon like formations of HaLong Bay, watching as an exciting thunderstorm built up and rolled on in. It was great, if a bit soggy, watching it on the deck. At Cat Ba island we stopped for some of the folks to get off and for some of us to transfer to another, similar boat, on which we were served dinner and given sleeping accommodations: a fan-cooled cabin with a vibrantly patterned blanket on the bed and fringey curtains hanging about. It was terrific for sleeping, even though the generator that provided for this and five other boats moored nearby was a bit noisy at first. Before dinner there was swimming and sunset-watching time. The swimming is probably a good idea as the shower accommodations are a bit primitive: a hand-held shower in the loo, with naught but cold water. The sun was shining as we sailed back, making for great pictures of some of the folks who live on the bay in houseboats and of the junks that still sail the waters. We came back to HaLong City, had lunch, and went back on the bus to Hanoi--only this time with a much larger group. I have no idea how the guides sort everyone out, but it worked for me! Temple of Literature, Wandering around the Lake The Temple of Literature is a rather lovely courtyard complex with tableted tortoises bearing the names of scholars as its major point of interest. There are also quite a number of chirping birdies in the trees and souvenir shops in the side buildings. It’s a nice peaceful wander. I walked from there to the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum grounds again, then got myself quite lost in a twisty maze of residential alleys (where capitalism is still thriving, thank you very much, in the shops and businesses on the lower levels of the buildings.) I found myself by taking a moto to Hoa Kiem Lake, where a lovely 72 year old Vietnamese lady shared her umbrella as it had started to absolutely pour. The umbrella did, in fact, very little good as it turned inside out, but we had a very enthusiastic conversation about her children and my visit to Vietnam. After we parted I went across the flamingly red bridge to the N’goc (turtle) Pagoda with its charming paintings and also charming souvenir shop where I got a (you guessed it) charming metal cyclo complete with fringed awning. Even though I was still soaking wet and therefore chilly I got some green rice ice cream as I circled the lake: interesting but indistinct flavor. Shortly thereafter was a meeting with Van the Sapa man, a super salesman who was, in fact, interesting to talk to and who thinks that it’s time for changes and who wants to go back to Sapa to be a tour guide. He sells extremely expensive postcards, which seems to be a fairly usual occupation for young men of Vietnam who have good language skills. Vietnam was fascinating and beautiful; most people are friendly and seem eager to talk to foreigners. I had a great time.

Hanoi is a very pleasant place to walk. The city is attractive, friendly, and safe, and the street scenes are endlessly interesting. Like my home town of Minneapolis, Hanoi is a city of lakes. Hoan Kiem Lake (The Lake of the Sword) is right in…Read More

Hanoi is a very pleasant place to walk. The city is attractive, friendly, and safe, and the street scenes are endlessly interesting.

Like my home town of Minneapolis, Hanoi is a city of lakes. Hoan Kiem Lake (The Lake of the Sword) is right in the center of downtown Hanoi. A pleasant tree-lined walking path encircles it, and there is a bridge to a little temple that sits on an island.

The European Quarter, just southwest of the lake, features wide, tree-lined streets, and big old colonial houses, most of which are embassies now.

The Old Quarter is, as the name suggests, the traditional Vietnamese part of the city, with narrow, teaming streets lined with countless small shops and restaurants. The streets are organized into guilds, and the street names reflect the kinds of goods that are sold there. For example, there is Bakery Street, and Textile Street, and one which could only be called 1960's Era Electronic Parts Street.

Most of the inexpensive small hotels are found in the Old Quarter--we, for example, stayed on Temple Street, where the shops sold exclusively religious items and temple decor.

It's endlessly fascinating to watch the traffic in Hanoi. There are few autos and the occasional small truck. Nearly everyone rides a bicycle or walks. One of our favorite passtimes was trying to spot the most outlandish load tied to a single bicycle. The guy who was hauling three full-size couches won--unfortunately, I was too startled to take his picture.

We encountered nothing but friendly, open people in Hanoi. Some of the older people will attempt to converse in French, and quite a few young people sought us out to practice their English. We could detect no animosity towards Americans. In some areas, particularly around Hoan Kiem Lake, begging children were a problem. It was hard to pass them by, but if we gave a coin to one, we were quickly surrounded and followed by 20.

In short--Hanoi is a surprise and a delight--an elegant, attractive, and open city with many interesting sites, excellent French and Vietnamese food, and friendly, helpful people.

Our hotel offered a number of tours ranging from day trips to three to four day excursions to other parts of North Vietnam. The first one we tried was the Perfume River tour--a day trip to a shrine not far from Hanoi. It was an…Read More

Our hotel offered a number of tours ranging from day trips to three to four day excursions to other parts of North Vietnam. The first one we tried was the Perfume River tour--a day trip to a shrine not far from Hanoi.

It was an eye-opener to leave the city. Anything resembling a modern road disappeared before we even reached the city limits. The traffic became increasingly outlandish--our little bus shared the road with bicyclists, foot traffic, ox carts, the occasional automobile, and home-made truck-like vehicles that appeared to be made from lawn-mower engines. Everything moved at about the same speed--maybe 4 miles an hour.

After what seemed like forever, we reached the banks of the Perfume River--a sleepy stream running through farm fields with mountains in the distance. We piled into rowboats powered by little old ladies with oars. I felt I should offer to row instead!

The trip down the river was pleasant, peaceful, and very scenic. After half an hour or so, we disembarked for a hike into the mountains to visit a temple and a shrine to Buddha located in a cave at the top of a mountain.

We were followed by a pack of little boys who tagged along to sell us sodas as we huffed and puffed our way up the rather steep slope. Lunch was provided at a little restaurant in the middle of nowhere. We also stopped at a temple that was half way up. Finally, we reached the top--and climbed into a dark hole in the side of the mountain to see an ugly statue of Buddha. It was rather anticlimactic.

Coming down was much easier! Thanks to the little boys, who were at our heels the entire way both up and down, we stayed reasonably well-refreshed. The downside all the refreshment was having to use the truly disgusting restroom facilities.

The trip back to Hanoi was much the same--we were ferried upstream by the little old ladies, then packed into a little bus for the interminable ride back to the city (which was probably only 30 miles away).

There are fewer things more relaxing or enjoyable than sitting down to a late afternoon cup of tea. In Hanoi, more than any other Asian city I've visited revels in this time honored tradition, which is a good thing because it can be a…Read More

There are fewer things more relaxing or enjoyable than sitting down to a late afternoon cup of tea. In Hanoi, more than any other Asian city I've visited revels in this time honored tradition, which is a good thing because it can be a very hectic place. You'll find stalls and tables in nearly all neighborhoods of the city surrounded by small stools for sitting. For a very reasonable price, usually $1, you can partake in tea and a variety of goodies including pastries, delicious coconut candies, and individual cigarettes. This is possibly the best way to meet locals in Hanoi.Close

Ten days in Vietnam with only ME—it's not easy and not too hard to try. I start my journey by train from Hanoi to Danang and then take a public bus to Hoi-An, an old dream city that everyone said is cool! The original way…Read More

Ten days in Vietnam with only ME—it's not easy and not too hard to try. I start my journey by train from Hanoi to Danang and then take a public bus to Hoi-An, an old dream city that everyone said is cool! The original way of life can be seen everywhere. The reception girl at the Minh A guesthouse always welcomes you, but make your booking ahead of time because it only has a few rooms, but it's so worth it to stay here!

Then went to Hue by open bus tour, $6 to $7, and stayed at some guesthouse located on Le Loi St. because it has easy access to the Citadel or the Color Bridge, which open colors spot every weekend. There is also a nearby park where you can see more statues here. Take DMZ day tour! It's another place worth checking out! Far from Hue, approximately 120km, the motorbike tour is not so bad—think that you're riding a speedy horse!

After that I took an open bus to Ninh Binh, a cool, old, little city. Checked out Phat-Diem and Tam Coc, which are so famous! And you'll not regret whenever you see them, one in south and one in north. Then if possible try to get up early in the morning and go to Tam Coc, Hoa Lu, and then go to Phat Diem. Kenh Ga Floating Village is not interesting anymore because most of the people are not living in water, but not sure in rainy season. Ninh Binh people are nice and friendly, more than Hue; just because it's not as popular, I thought it may difficult to communicate with them. From Ninh Binh take a 2-hour bus to Hanoi city—not specifically only open bus, public buses are OK. They passed every minute, so any public bus will do; they're also cheaper.

Stayed in Hanoi guesthouse around Yen Thai Rd.—fine and reasonable price. And in evening in this alley enjoy fried pork with vodka so delicious and save your money! Don't miss the water puppets show; it's nice and amazing! Then take tour to Halong Bay and stay 1 night on a boat—new friends may come to you!

Back to Hanoi—take a day tour by yourself, every place here is easy to access, but I needed a compass on days the sun did not come out, which was every single day I was there! ): If you get lost, don't worry, just walk and walk and walk—finally you will find the right way!

Vietnam bread is not so bad, and the ice cream is so good!

Point: I went there alone, so no matter what, I enjoyed it and was cheerful. Laughed for my absentmindedness every time i get lost. Motorbike? NO! Walking is my life! And my bag is heavy on my back!Close

They say that first impressions matter and do get engraved in your memory. When we decided to go to Vietnam back in 2001, we did our little study primarily from the Rough Guide and other sources , but at the end of the day we…Read More

They say that first impressions matter and do get engraved in your memory. When we decided to go to Vietnam back in 2001, we did our little study primarily from the Rough Guide and other sources , but at the end of the day we were not quite sure what to expect or whether Vietnam would prove a good choice as a holiday. We knew of nobody who has been there for a holiday!!! We left Bangkok’s noisy , busy and cosmopolitan airport with an Air France flight and before we knew we landed at Hanoi’s Noi Bai airport. It was a misty, cool spring afternoon, and our plane was the only one on the tarmac.

As ours was the only flight, there was a spooky quietness at the baggage/arrival hall. When we went for the passport control, there were four uniformed officers behind wooden desks, each one with identical hairstyle and a steely serious facial expression. Their hats were placed carefully on the front right side of their desks and if you were to draw an imaginary line connecting the front part of each hat with the next, then you would get a perfect straight line! These guys have aligned perfectly their hats on their desks, their facial expressions, the hairs on their heads, and their perfectly ironed uniforms. As they were checking our passports and visas, Andreas who is about 6’4” tall bent his head on the side trying to peek on the computer screen. The customs officer was rather annoyed and promptly and firmly ordered him to step 3 feet back. Thankfully this very stern first impression was followed by one of the best holidays we ever had and the Vietnamese people proved to be joyful, hospitable, always helpful, welcoming, and friendly and had very little in common with their co-patriots on these customs desks.