Our friends had taken the night-time trail the previous day so we were looking forward to a similar experience. The highlight for them had been a Toucan that they’d spotted in a distant tree. It was too far to appreciate with the naked eye, but…Read More

Our friends had taken the night-time trail the previous day so we were looking forward to a similar experience. The highlight for them had been a Toucan that they’d spotted in a distant tree. It was too far to appreciate with the naked eye, but as clear as a bell through the lens of the guide’s high powered telescope. We set off, with two others, to the strain of "whatever you see, please don’t see the Tree Frog". Apparently their guide had said that the tree frog was around but it was very hard to spot.

Up until that point I’d not even considered that we see such a creature, but it had become iconic of the jungle following its starring role on the cover of David Attenborough’s "Life on Earth" (published 1979). Our guide confirmed that "It would be our lucky night" if we spotted one.

We set off at a slow space with our headlamps fixed firmly to our heads. My wife had been warned about flying insects and so was well covered in "deet" and had a scarf wrapped around her head so that only her eyes were showing. She must have been baking inside but she was determined not to get bitten again. We’d only gone a few yards when I saw a spider close to my foot. It was quickly encircled by the five of us and Levy, our guide, identified it as a wolf spider. Apparently the wolf spider lives an almost solitary life and hunts on its own without even the aid of a web. Their good eyesight (two of their eight eyes are larger) and agility enables them to chase its prey over short distances. They’re not huge creatures and this one was pretty much fully grown at two inches. Indeed as we progressed on our walk we saw many more wolf spider on the ground.

Our first "spot" under our belt and we’re off again. It was sure I’d seen something near a leaf a few yards ahead so went to investigate. Knowing me it would be another leaf! There was movement again and this time Levy was on the case. He held up his hand and we all stopped. He moved forward cautiously and then turned and smiled. "You lucky people" he exclaimed "we have a Tree Frog" Sure enough there it was – a bright green little fellow with huge bulbous red eyes. It was just like the cover of "Life on Earth" and this little chap was not frightened of us. He stayed for a photo call and happily jumped onto Levy’s hand and was content to look around at us with a penetrating stare. Even my wife, who hates frogs with a vengeance, was "taken with him" and asked if she could have him on her hand. This was to be a first as Levy transferred the frog from his hand to Elaine’s. Her eyes showed no fear, but before I could fire off a photo the frog had leapt back to Levy and was clinging to his shirt with his footpads. The same footpads that enable the Tree Frog to cling to leaves in the jungle forest as they wait for insects or smaller frogs to pass by. What a great spot! We all had difficulty leaving the frog behind and I promised myself that I wouldn’t gloat when I returned back to base.

Finally we broke away from our 2 inches long Froggy friend and headed off into the darkness. As our lights shone there were hundreds of tiny diamond-like reflections surrounding us. This was the eye-shine from hundreds or even thousands of spiders. It was an incredible sight and somewhat surprising that they managed to avoid being trampled underfoot as we headed across the open ground.

Once again our guide brought us to a sudden stop as he crouched down and asked that we turn off our lights. He reached for a small stick and began, very gently to tease out the spider living in the burrow in front of us. A furry leg grabbed the stick and after some patience from Levy a Red-Rump Tarantula emerged. It’s also known as the Black Velvet Tarantula and this one looked to be huge – easily 5 inches across. We gave it the respect that the name Tarantula demands and held back from getting too close (thank goodness for telephoto lens) even though Levy assured us that the burrowing tarantula was more interested in insects, small lizards or other spiders.

We were well chuffed two great spots and just a few more yards ahead we evidenced that the Leaf Cutting Ants work 24/7. There was a procession of this amazingly hard working insect and somehow it looked even more impressive at night.

We’d now walked round to the top of the Lamanai site and Indian Church, Levy asked that we avoided touching anything. This, he explained was the territory of the Brown Recluse Spider. I have to say that the small scurrying insect that disappeared into cracks of the masonry seemed to pose no threat but as Levy stated that it was highly venomous we all visibly retreated away from the building in front of us. Having said that the spider is not "normally" aggressive but if bitten the bite can become infected and tissue irreparably damaged.

We pressed on and were told to carefully step over the Red Army Ants that, like the leaf-cutting ants, walked in procession at our feet. As we stepped over a column of Red Army Ants Levy stated that they made at clapping noise at night because they were prey for several animals and birds. One of our party, not me I hasten to add, asked if the noise was audible to humans. "Of course" exclaimed Levy. "Wow" said an incredulous tourist, "clapping ants". "No" replied an equally incredulous guide "I was talking about the Howler Monkeys". Talk about a language barrier!

The whole walking adventure took us over 90 minutes and it felt like "no time at all". We’d had a real exciting trip and we buzzed with excitement over the Tree Frog, the hairy Tarantula and the worker ants.

Did I boast about our sighting of the Tree Frog when we met up with our friends? Of course I did – who wouldn’t!
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San Pedro and Ambergris Caye are the heart of tourism in Belize. It is where the vast majority of tourists choose to spend their time in Belize. Many come to Ambergris for a week or ten days and barely even leave to see any of…Read More

San Pedro and Ambergris Caye are the heart of tourism in Belize. It is where the vast majority of tourists choose to spend their time in Belize. Many come to Ambergris for a week or ten days and barely even leave to see any of the other sights Belize has to offer. It is a resort town that is doing its best to compete with the likes of Cancun for the hot spring destination. It has cheap hotels, chic resorts and one giant strip of bars and dance clubs. If you are looking for the type of Caribbean where you either spend your nights drinking and your days sunbathing or if you are of the type who likes to hole yourself up in a resort, then Ambergris is your place. However, if you are a budget traveler, or someone who enjoys experiencing local culture, then stay as far away from Ambergris as possible.

We had not originally considered staying on Ambergris, instead we had planned on spending our time on the cayes on Caye Caulker, Ambergris’ little brother, but we decided that we should give Ambergris a shot, for at least a night. At first sight, the town of San Pedro didn’t seem to be too bad. We managed to find a cheap and clean place to stay right on the beach, Edith’s and the town seemed rather quaint. We found a great place for dinner, the Jam Bel Jerk Pit, which serves up a host of Jamaican dishes, all of them spectacular. The best part is that they will make it as hot as you want if you tell them to make it extra spicy, the will make it extra spicy…I’m salivating just remembering their jerk pork.

San Pedro during the day is fine place. It is your typical Caribbean tourist town. It has cheap T-shirt stores, hundreds of places offering snorkel tours, and plenty of beach bars. At night is when San Pedro gets into full Spring Break mode. The discos all start blaring their music and every club has the guy standing outside yelling at you to come inside. As the night goes on the streets fill with drunken tourists and things get a bit crazier. If that is your scene, then San Pedro is a great place, but if you are expecting a quieter vacation, then I’d recommend staying away. It was OK for one night, but after that I had to head out.

Probably my biggest gripe about San Pedro and Ambergris is that the friendliness that Belizeans are so famous for has been slowly whittled away by tourism. It seems people are much more out for money than to help you have a great time. For me, I came to Belize to experience the life and culture of the people in Belize and share in their beautiful country, and that is not what I found in Ambergris.

I’ve always said that if you want to have the time of your life, just buy a plane ticket to some remote place and show up without any plans. We arrived at Belize City airport in June of 96. After catching cab into Belize City we…Read More

I’ve always said that if you want to have the time of your life, just buy a plane ticket to some remote place and show up without any plans.

We arrived at Belize City airport in June of 96. After catching cab into Belize City we found a nice guesthouse along the wharf. We booked a room and began asking the locals where a nice place to eat was, we finally settled on a small restaurant in walking distance from our room.

Belize was a British colony and lacks the beautiful Spanish architecture of most Latin American countries, but has a personality of its own. Pirates made up most of the population centuries ago and the city is somewhat in shambles. We met some people at the guest house that had just returned from the islands off the coast of Belize and suggested we take a boat out to the Cayes as their islands are called.

We decided to explore around the city the following day and then catch the boat for the islands. We hired a cab for a flat rate and our cab driver gave us the tour of the city. I have found throughout Mexico and most Latin American countries cab drivers are the best tour guides as well as make good friends for the future. The following day we hired a boat to take us to Caye Caulker, one of the smaller less visited by tourist islands. What a pleasure! This small island was about two hundred yards wide and four miles long. We found a nice room along the beach and spent four wonderful days exploring, sailing, fishing and scuba diving. We had great food at local prices and made many friends.

Belize has the second longest Coral reef in the world next to Australia. There is an abundance of wildlife below water and above. Our whole trip at the time cost less than US$700.00 including airfare. Unfortunately due to American tourists I have found that the prices have gone way up and soon instead of small local owned hotels and $5.00 Lobster dinners it will be an all-inclusive tourist trap with prices and crime to match. I have plans to visit Guatemala and Honduras soon and hope to find the island paradise without the crowds.. I will keep you posted.

Early one morning I left my hotel in Chetumal, Mexico, and walked over to the international bus station, bought a ticket for about eight dollars, and went aboard the bus headed south to Belize City. The driver was standing off to one side caressing a…Read More

Early one morning I left my hotel in Chetumal, Mexico, and walked over to the international bus station, bought a ticket for about eight dollars, and went aboard the bus headed south to Belize City. The driver was standing off to one side caressing a lovely young woman, and he motioned me onto the bus without removing his hands from her bottom.

The bus left just as the sun was coming up and we crossed the Rio Hondo River into Belize in daylight. The driver was the first into the customs shed at the border, and when the last of the passengers was off, a comely young woman who had been standing by the customs shed got aboard the bus. Since I was the first in the shed behind the driver, and I fit none of the profiles customs agents watch for, I was quickly through, and back outside. The driver gave me a murderous look because he had his hand down the front of the young woman's dress and did not remove it while glaring at me. I decided I needed a short stroll, so I walked around the area until some other passengers were aboard. The young woman left the bus and disappeared. The driver had a toothpick stuck between his two front teeth and was whistling a lilting tune, which I didn't think was possible. He probably practiced it in front of a mirror.

Soon after crossing the border we began picking up school children, many emerging from thatched huts with dirt floors, and every child that came aboard looked immaculate with their blue and white uniforms, or their freshly washed dresses and pants and shirts. They sat quietly, little ladies and gentlemen, until they left the bus in Belize City. I was told that education is mandatory in Belize but since the government can't afford schools throughout the country, many churches have established schools there.

When we reached Belize City I walked over to the tourist office, a walk of about six blocks, to get information on the country and to see if they could help me find a hotel. They had a very limited number of brochures and the only help they could offer with a hotel was to give me the name of some. No, I couldn't call from their office. Pay phones only. So I went out, found a pay phone and was in the process of finding where I was on the map when a young man came down the street, carrying an ice chest on one shoulder, wearing a shirt with no sleeves and a pair of shorts. He was barefooted and he was singing and dancing.

'Excuse me, sir,' he said, emphasizing the sir the way British soldiers do. 'You think you are on Albert Street, don't you?' I said I did because that is what the map said.
'You are not, sir. You are on Queen Street. The map is in error.'
I thanked him and suddenly all was clear again.
'Where are you going?' he asked. I told him the Bellevue Hotel. 'Ah yes, much too far to walk with that suitcase.' Then he resumed his singing and dancing and left. But immediately he came back. 'Sir, do you see those yellow coconuts? Their milk is best of all with rum. Please remember that.' Then he was gone for good.

That is the way my week went in Belize. I found lots of people to talk to, lots of things to drink with rum, and many reasons to avoid Belize City in the future. Given my choices, I would not stop there at all. The hassle factor is just too much to contend with, although some people enjoy fending off hustlers and dodging pickpockets. I am not among them.

Belize, for the uninitiated, was British Honduras for many,many years until the British Empire faded and its colonies given independence. Like so many of them, British Honduras decided to take the freedom, change its name but to keep an alliance with the United Kingdom. So now it is a member of the British Commonwealth, and Beliezans credit that alliance with saving them from being invaded by Guatemala, which has always insisted Belize is part of their country. That kind of talk stopped when England attacked Argentina in the Falkland Islands. Not long after that episode, Guatemala dropped their claims on Belize, and for the first time ever, showed Belize on its maps.   Close

We arrived on the island of Caye Caulker with severe winds and heavy rains, but the rain is warm, so it was no big deal, and our room at Tom’s Hotel was clean and fresh. The view was amazing, sea as far as you could…Read More

We arrived on the island of Caye Caulker with severe winds and heavy rains, but the rain is warm, so it was no big deal, and our room at Tom’s Hotel was clean and fresh. The view was amazing, sea as far as you could see, and only 100m away from our beach hut room, and from the roof you could see the opposite side of the island-it was really thin.

We soon found out that this was nothing like Mexico; in fact, it was more like a mini-Jamaica. It was totally relaxed-in fact, so chilled out that we were practically horizontal most of the time (in the hammocks). The island hums with reggae music, and the relaxed Creole accent is almost hypnotic. We came across the I&I bar, where rum punch was the order of the day. We soon found ourselves under the wings of two local lads who told us that nothing matters here and that you have no worries. "Why are you rushin’? You are not from Russia," was the general vibe. The main form of transport was golf carts. They are battery powered and have a maximum speed of 20 mph. Great fun! They have just one pedal and one handle to change into reverse.

Our second day we went with Ragga Muffin tours for a day trip of snorkeling. I have never been snorkeling before, and it was absolutely amazing. I wore a float to start with and soon found that smiling and talking to the fish was letting water into my mask, so I had to be content with waving. There were so many fish; it is such a wicked experience being in their world. We even swam with nurse sharks, about six were ahead of Caz and I, and then, just as everyone got out, I saw a giant stingray; it was massive and flapped above the seabed below me.

We also met the Lyrical King, a Rasta from South Belize who was such a character. He sang us his reggae songs with his guitar, one about not kissing a woman until you know she can cook, kissing your fish Ed instead. And one about being from Belize, "We get our honey straight from da bees."

We were gutted to have to leave the island. Belize City was pretty grim, but I went to see the Cajal Petch ruins, which were less impressive, but still interesting, and there was hardly anyone there, so it was very peaceful. On the second day we opted for the caving expedition to the Actun Tunich Ill Muknal ancient Mayan caves. We were told we would have an hour’s hike to the caves and that we would have to swim in some parts. How exciting! The entrance alone was amazing, and the half-kilometer mission to the ancient artifacts was a really good challenge. We had a great guide who told us that the history of the Mayans and how they believed the spirits of the underworld lived in the caves. They went and made food offerings and did sacrifices deep in the caves! It must have been very spooky. He shined his torch so we could see the shadows from the stalactites, which were very freaky. We got to a huge chamber that looked like a cathedral with a giant organ (the crystal formations), and then we went to the artifacts. The cave was only officially discovered in 1986, and the artifacts are all in their original positions, not encased. You can touch the real Mayan skulls and see the carvings on the pottery that dates to 900AD. It’s incredible. At the very top is the Princess, a full-size skeleton that is lying down. It’s incredible to see; it’s in perfect condition due to the water and granite preserving it. There is a real atmosphere in the cave. The bloke said, on a number of occasions, that he has had weird experiences in the caves where he had felt something go through him.

Ambergris Caye is situated 35 miles North of Belize City. It's main city is called San Pedro. You can reach this island by boat or plane in about 15 minutes. The price to fly from Belize International is about $80, although departing from Belize municipal airport is half…Read More

Ambergris Caye is situated 35 miles North of Belize City. It's main city is called San Pedro. You can reach this island by boat or plane in about 15 minutes. The price to fly from Belize International is about $80, although departing from Belize municipal airport is half the price.

It is abundant with water related activities, among swimming, snorkeling, diving, sailing and windsurfing. You could take day trip to the mainland to go bird watching or visit some Maya ruin. The primary use of transportation is by electric golf cart. There are several places in San Pedro to rent carts. The majority of tourist hotels and crowdedness would be on the east-south side of the island. There are a good seletion of restuarants in the center of town as well as in several hotels.

Among several different hotels are:

Tropic Air
Tel: 501-2-62012

Maya Island Air
Tel: 501-2-62435 <<br>br> Ramon's Village
Tel: 501-2-62071

Mata Rocks Resort
Tel: 501-2-62336

There are boat trips near the swing bridge in Belize City or near the Bellvue Hotel.   Close

A passport is required for all visitors to Belize. It should be valid for at least six months beyond the duration of the intended stay in the country. A 30-day visa will be issued on arrival, and extensions (up to six months) may be obtained…Read More

A passport is required for all visitors to Belize. It should be valid for at least six months beyond the duration of the intended stay in the country. A 30-day visa will be issued on arrival, and extensions (up to six months) may be obtained from any Immigration Office for a fee of BZ$25 for every 30 days. Citizens of the British Commonwealth (India excepted), the United States, Canada, Mexico, Costa Rica, and the European Community do not require visas for travel to Belize. All other citizens should contact the nearest Belizean Consulate or Embassy for details on obtaining visas before travelling. The Immigration & Nationality Department in Belmopan can be contacted at telephone numbers 501-8-22611, and -22423.    Close

It gets dark in the city from pretty early at night, around 6.30pm. I used to go running in the athletics track, near the university and it’s a good way of working off the rice and beans. The Radisson is good for after dinner drinks…Read More

It gets dark in the city from pretty early at night, around 6.30pm. I used to go running in the athletics track, near the university and it’s a good way of working off the rice and beans. The Radisson is good for after dinner drinks and on Fridays they have a happy hour affairs with free food and music, often with a DJ and live music. The Princess Hotel can also be a good night out – see separate review. The cinema here has two screens with new films from America. The films change about once a month. I saw The Ring 2 here, which was hilarious due to all the Belizeans screaming at the screen and actively engaging in a ‘he’s behind you’ type style. There was a new cocktail style bar just opened when I was there next to the swing bridge, it was still quite quiet when we went but the drinks were good and the local friendly. See separate review for places to eat.    Close