If you are in need of a vacation and you are one those people that like to be kept on their toes, Athens should…Read More

If you are in need of a vacation and you are one those people that like to be kept on their toes, Athens should be your vacation destination. This is a city that does not wait for you; you either keep up or get left behind. The roads, the people, the animals, and just everyday life here is moving at a fast pace. Even though the city seems to always be going, there are many locations that allow you to slow down and take in the beauty and history of the city. Places that are worth a visit in Athens if you want to escape its fast paced way of living are its different museums and ruins and a place high in the sky that I will tell you about that allows you to see this remarkable city.
One place you must visit is the Acropolis. It is the crown jewel of Greece and arguably all of Europe. The temples located here are the most influential buildings in Western architecture. The Acropolis was constructed during the Golden Ages of Athens during the late 5th-century. The majority of the temples built were to honor the goddess Athena. If you are a person with time on your hands, you should visit each spot. But if time is of the essence, I recommend visiting the museum, the Parthenon, and the Temple of Athena Nike.
The New Acropolis Museum is built over an early Christian settlement that you can see below the glass floors. Many of the sculptures are displayed inside the museum as they would be in their respective locations. All the stories you have heard about ancient Greek are given pictures once you visit this museum. The glass windows at the museum allow you to view the Acropolis from inside. The Parthenon is one of the structures you can glance at and then actually walk and see it.
The Parthenon was the embodiment of ancient Greek Classical art. It is a temple with 46 columns on the outside standing at the top of the Acropolis dedicated to Athena. The Parthenon is the most important structure on the Sacred Rock. This marble creation is a huge part of Greek history that should be visited if you come to Athens. After visiting this place during the day, I would suggest finding a spot in which you can see it at nighttime when the lights are shining on it. A good place to see this while enjoying a meal is at a restaurant in the center of Athens called Strofi. When the lights hit it as the sun is setting, it is easily one the best experiences you can have.
I suggest a visit to the four column temple resting on a rocky outcrop with a missing roof, the Temple of Athena Nike. I recommend a visit here solely because of the influence it has had in our culture today. One of the biggest clothing and athletic chains is based on this temple. It was coincidence that I happened to be wearing Nike apparel as I was learning about this temple. This temple was placed to protect the rock where it was most vulnerable to enemy attack. When visiting the Temple of Athena Nike or the Parthenon, I recommend going early because it will be crowded with tour groups and you will also miss some of the midday heat.
After you give a day to visiting the Acropolis, you must reserve a day to visiting the ruins and museums in Delphi. The only downfall about visiting Delphi is the 3-hour trip. But the trip is worth it and if you’re lucky, maybe you will receive a prophecy from the Oracle. The Oracle of Delphi is one of the most fascinating pieces of Greek history because of their believed ability of telling the future. There are countless stories and movies that involve the Oracle of Delphi, one being the movie 300, that you can relate to. The Temple of Apollo and the Theatre are the hot spots at this location.
The Temple of Apollo is used for marking the center of the world. Apollo was able to win dominion over the Oracle, which resulted in many rulers sending offerings to hear prophecies from the Oracle. The view from this temple allows you to look out into the city and see what Apollo was able to see daily. Like many of the temples found in Greece, they are located at a higher elevation than other things.
The theatre found here which is soon about to be reopened is a must see. This theatre will place you into ancient times if you allow your mind to wonder. If you were able to sit in the theatre, you could gaze at the entire sanctuary below and the valley beyond. The theatre is one of the best-preserved theatres of ancient Greece. While watching whatever is taking place at the theatre, you are able to take in the beautiful scenery that Delphi has to offer.
Even though I believe the sites to be much more of an experience than the museum, I would suggest viewing the museum before heading outside. Visiting the museum allows you to have an understanding of what you’re taking in if you have not studied much Greek history. The museum also has actual pieces from the different sites that had to be removed because they were falling apart. So you will be able to see authentic pieces from the different sites. If it is possible for you to have a tour guide, it is a good investment. Not only do they know more about the sites, they can offer you things that you cannot get if you just read if off the internet or visit the museum by yourself. If a woman guide named Penny is available; do not let her get away! She knows her stuff! Museums can be a struggle since they tend to blend together, but if you mix them with the ruins, they complete one another.
A must visit if you want to escape the everyday life of Athens is Lycabettus Hill. When you’re up on the hill, away from dog poop and urine smells, you can really see how beautiful and modernized a city Athens is. Out of all the spots I visited in Athens, I found this to be the most peaceful location in the city. It is not heavily filled with tourists and it is up high away from the sounds of the city. When you’re walking through the city filled with pee on about every sidewalk, you are not able to experience its true beauty since you are concerned with the smell. I keep mentioning urine and poop because I had an unfortunate incident while walking the streets. Coincidently enough, it happened as I was making my journey to Lycabettus Hill. My sandal managed to find some dog poop on the bottom of it which did not make for a pleasant walk for myself or group members. But once I was away from the city streets and enjoying a bird’s eye view of Athens, things were better.
Athens is a place that everyone should have the chance to visit once in their lifetime. Not only do you get to experience life in a different place; you are able to connect with ancient Greek history. The different stories that you hear or read about as a child, teenager, or adult all make more sense once you visit Athens. From its prolific historical sites to the pee on every sidewalk, Athens is a place filled with opportunity to encounter different things. So if you’re looking for a break from your normal life, or wanting to gather knowledge on Greek history, Athens is the place to visit!
Close

Our journey in Greece made its second stop in the city of Athens. After we exited the ferries to make our way to the metro we encountered the street vendors and random sellers of goods, as we would…Read More

Our journey in Greece made its second stop in the city of Athens. After we exited the ferries to make our way to the metro we encountered the street vendors and random sellers of goods, as we would throughout the entire city. A lesson quickly learned from these gentlemen, they don’t know the meaning of no; one must be firm and somewhat rude to get them to go away. The streets were busy and filled with people, everyone rushing to get to their next destination. Entering the metro was like looking into a maze of ants, everyone scrambling rushing and carrying ten times their weight in luggage.
The metro was our main form of transportation throughout Athens; it is loud, crowded and makes you feel like a sardine in a can, but it is the fastest way to get around the city and you see some interesting characters while using public transport. One man was listening to obnoxiously loud music, tapping his feet like a drum and slapping his hands on his legs, to what he thought was the beat of the music. Our hotel was located near central Athens, and unfortunately right off a street known for drug use and dealing, Tositsa. Located near the Athens School of Architecture this is one place to avoid at night. We were warned that illegal activities are frequent occurrences there because police cannot enter the university.
Not all of the streets were as sketchy as Tositsa; most were filled with helpful friendly Athenians or street vendors. The streets in Athens were also riddled with trash; every other corner had older Athenians sweeping the streets and scrubbing them with bleach water in the early hours of morning. We started all of our tours earlier in the morning, and I would recommend doing so as well; you beat the heat and the rush of people at various historical sites.
Our first site to visit was the new Acropolis Museum and the actual Acropolis. We had a tour guide lead us around the museum and site; I would recommend this if traveling in a group; you learn a lot more and it captures your attention hearing information from an individual as opposed to a plaque under the exhibit. Our tour guide made the history feel alive and fresh, new age for a younger generation of students; she kept us entertained with witty satire and by keeping us moving around the museum. Faye was a short, older Greek lady with a fiery personality and a flare for fashion. After seeing the museum, you can venture to the Acropolis site. Sweating and feeling the heat from the beautiful cloudless day we lucked upon, we made it to the top. From the top you can see the 360 degree views of the Acropolis and the Parthenon; you can also see a panoramic view of central Athens.
The Acropolis site was in the process of preservation. The archaeologists are saving what pieces they can to put the structure back together for a more complete piece of history. The more the archaeologists excavate the site and piece things together, the more they see how the ancient Greeks created the masterpiece that is the Acropolis. Columns were constructed piece by piece and you can see this first hand in the museum and then at the site. After enjoying the limited shade and a fading breeze, we climbed back down the mountain.
Even though there are several historical sites to witness in Athens, take the time to just walk around and people watch. Walking down the crowded streets you will see how many different people are mashed into this city of complete organized chaos; it is beautiful in its own unique way. On multiple walks we had a chance to stroll through the numerous squares, each consisting of its own individual flavor. The most famous of the squares being Syntagma Square, or the people’s square. This is the square where protests, peaceful in nature, are often held; this is because Syntagma square is across the street from Parliament.
Syntagma square is one of the best places to witness the general urban and young culture of Athens. And if you are craving for some Americanized food, there is a McDonald’s located just off the square. While people-watching at a small café located just off the square we witnessed a small group of protestors, although to me they seemed ineffective with their techniques. The protestors got a bit too close to peoples’ faces and they put their signs down after about five minutes. Shortly after seeing the protestors, a younger group of individuals had a live dj play music as street performers took their stage by storm. One set of performers took the form of a flash mob; while they danced, it was like Athens took a still frame of itself; all the people stopped to watch them dance. It was the moment that had me falling for Athens’ beauty and uniqueness.
While in Athens we did see several historical sites, all interesting and well deserving of a visit while traveling to Athens. Although for me the experience of Athens is out in the city, walking down the streets, visiting the squares, haggling with street vendors, having random conversations with locals about the economy and how the US views Greece and where we are going in our lives as students. Athens it a vital culture to witness and experience firsthand, it is a nice change from the drone like museum tours that all seem to blur together after you see two.
One such conversation occurred in an eatery when a local man, round in the face, with a serious demeanor and grey in the beard, asked to take the seat next to us. He was fascinated by us as students and kept prying with questions, attempting to figure out where we were in life, age, and where we were from. After a fulfilling conversation about college and being a senior and explaining that I study business, he entered in the conversation with the topic of the debt crisis in Greece. The man was all ears on our opinion and did not try and make it seem like Greece was suffering. He seemed hopeful, which was a breath of fresh air compared to other conversations with the same topic.
The same man was kind enough to give me and some fellow travelers directions to the local shopping area. And like most Greeks, as I have discovered, he told us the directions about three times and in three different ways. Eventually, we embarked on our journey to the shopping on Ermou in Athens. The streets were lined with vendors, performers and outlet stores. The variety of stores had us bouncing from side to side on the street. There was so much to see, try on, and purchase. After entering a few stores and spending our Euros along the way, we ran into a snag; the store hours are difficult to manage when you are used to American customs. We were actually removed from a store because it was closing, which to us seemed weird; we could not finalize purchases, but simply had to leave.
After that experience some of my fellow travelers and I decided to take on some regular outings as if we were home, one being the viewing of a movie. The theaters are vastly different in Athens; they have assigned seats, and unlike in America the seats start about 30 feet from the screen instead of about two feet. Also you can drink alcoholic beverages while enjoying your film. If given the time to see a movie while in Greece, it is more than worth it. The theaters were clean, luxurious, and as a frequent movie-goer I was thoroughly impressed with the establishment. In addition to a great movie atmosphere you have a chance to people watch and take in more of the younger culture.
It did not take much to have me captured by the fast paced experience that is Athens. The streets may have been crowded, but the energy of the city and random trees in the middle of sidewalks just grab you and pull you in. Even though we had a week in Athens, I recommend spending more time there; there are a million things to see and do. We finished Athens off with a lovely dinner after sitting next to the Temple of Poseidon and watching the sun set on the sea that lay before us. Athens is infectious and a must visit destination even if only for the energy that the city manages to generate. Organized beautiful chaos and an undying spirit awaits all who visit.
Close

Athens, named for the goddess Athena, is one of the oldest cities in the world, as it dates more than 7000 years old. Located near the Saronic Gulf in Greece, the city was much smaller in area than the sprawling metropolis it is now.…Read More

Athens, named for the goddess Athena, is one of the oldest cities in the world, as it dates more than 7000 years old. Located near the Saronic Gulf in Greece, the city was much smaller in area than the sprawling metropolis it is now. If you are not accustomed to city life, make sure you are aware of your surroundings at all times, especially in crowded areas near the metro stations and the ferry ports, professional pick-pockets work these areas frequently.
Athens is all that you would expect from a city: fast paced, with graffiti, nightlife, all-night raves at the college, and high-end fashion shopping. But beyond the obvious, there are the sweet spots of the city that people tend to miss. The new sprawling city is built right around the ancient site, still attracting tourists from all over. Some people think that tourism is what is keeping Athens alive in this time of economic troubles, but it is part of their culture. They want people to share their history, because it is our history as well. As much as I want to say I’m American, even Americans are heavily influenced by Greek culture. It’s not until you experience their culture that you realize the similarities and differences between the cultures. Nothing is new in the world; everything is borrowed, and built upon, from the ancient Greeks and other ancient cultures around the world.. The fusion of old and new works well in a city still developing itself. As I went shopping near Syntagma Square, I looked up and could see the Parthenon keeping watch over the city and over the fashion district, we were in. It’s a mix of old and new everywhere we go.
Greece has been all over the media recently, with so-called riots and protests over the economic crisis, but while I was there for a week, the worst that I saw (as far as protesting goes) was a small group of people peacefully protesting. They just want a better future, that’s all. Isn’t it the same back in the United States, or anywhere in the world?
Athens is as safe as any other city. Something that I noticed even in Athens is that it’s still very community oriented, with the restaurants having their seats set up outside as people walk by. They welcome you into their restaurants with a smile.
One might ask why the Greeks love olives? It goes back to the name of the city and the myth of how it goes back to its name. Athens attained this name through a legendary contest between Poseidon and Athena, as described by Herodotus, Apollodorus, Ovid, Plutarch, Pausanias, and others. They each offered the city one gift. Poseidon produced a spring by striking the ground with his trident, symbolizing naval power. Athena created the olive tree, symbolizing peace and wisdom. The Athenians accepted the olive tree and named the city after Athena. The owl and the bird, both symbols of Athena are still represented on Greek money and can be found everywhere in the city.
One thing to keep in mind when travelling to Greece is the siesta time, usually between 2:30 p.m. and 5 p.m., these times can vary from day to day as well. Shopping can be particularly frustrating if you don’t know a store closes at six p.m. on a Saturday and the associates don’t hesitate to ask you to leave the store, even if you aren’t finished shopping, something that probably wouldn’t happen often in retail stores in the U.S.
If you want to experience the best of Athens, my first recommendation is going to the Acropolis. First, go to the museum. I recommend having a guide to take you through the museum so you can see the best pieces and understand what is there and why it is significant to the site, to Athens, and to the museum. The new museum is an updated, very modern building with high tech systems and security lurking in every corner ( the men and women dressed in suits with the earpieces), and they will not hesitate to ask you to put your camera away if you try to take pictures in areas where photography is not allowed. They do allow photography in two parts of the museum, the first room with several models of Athens and the Parthenon room. The best part of the museum, for me, was the Parthenon room, where they have reconstructed pieces of the Parthenon and assembled them to show how they went on the actual Parthenon. Going here before going to the actual site is good if you want to have a good slate of knowledge before trekking up the hill to the site. Be sure to go on a holiday, and admission may be free! Then after touring the sites at the Acropolis, eat at the very charming (and not very expensive) restaurant , Strofi, where, if you make reservations, you can enjoy rooftop view of the Parthenon at night, and a lovely dinner served by nicely clad waiters and some Greek wine to drink.
My next recommendation is going to the National Archeological Museum. The first thing I want to say is that the place is massive and (according to our awesome tour guide Faye) it would take 6 months to see the whole museum correctly. Walking through the museum, you cannot take it all in because there is so much to see. Again, I suggest visiting the museum on a holiday; it may be a little crowded, but admission will be free (see below for free admission dates for 2012, also free admission on National holidays.) I had the privilege of seeing the "Antikythera mechanism". This item is considered the oldest known scientific calculator and may have been used in astronomy and mathematics. It dates to the first century B.C. This artifact was interesting to my study abroad group, especially because we are studying astronomy. This exhibit however, was only at the museum temporarily. With, many more exhibits and artifacts from all over Greece, this museum is the largest in nation and one of the great museums of the world.
Finally, a few things that disturbed me about Athens were the rampant graffiti. Some of it was actually beautiful, but regardless, it was everywhere, literally. The drug population is not hidden, people are out in the open, buying, and selling plus, and it is not as criminalized as it is in countries such as the United States. Seeing it up close was a bit unnerving; however, our hotel manager said that they are relatively harmless and they will be moved from street to street by the police. The worst part is they hang out on the streets surrounding the University of Athens, just a block from our hotel and the National Archeological Museum, the Best Western Museum Hotel. Most people seem to avoid these streets and do not seem taken aback by the large druggie population, its part of city life, I guess
Keep your eyes open and your hands on your things at all times and don’t engage beggars. They will try to pickpocket you. Walking to the restaurant Strofi with my group, a lady approached me and another member of my group, trying to give a flower to me, then asking for money for "my baby" "because you are beautiful", "for my baby". She motioned to her belly, though I’m not sure if she was actually with child or not. You have to say no and keep going and try not to feel too bad. At the same time this lady was talking to me, another was circling me, trying to find out if I had anything of value she could swipe. This isn’t something that is new in a city, just something I had never experienced myself, never having been in a large city without a large group or with my parents. It happens in all cities around the world, not just Greece--just be aware that this does happen.
Athens is, by all accounts, a great city to visit. However, the smells are less than pleasant when walking through the streets, like a mix of tar, gas, and waste. The new metro system helps to make getting around the city much easier However, if you are not used to city life, you may find the atmosphere physically and mentally exhausting. After spending a week there visiting several sites within the city and making a few excursions out of the city, it is time for some relaxation in the islands. No wonder Athenians like to get away from the city for a few days. But it’s well worth a visit to be able to see ancient history come alive.

Free Admission Days
March 6th - in memory of actress and Minister of Culture Melina Mercouri.
April 18th - International Monuments Day.
May 18th - International Museums Day.
June 5th - International Environment Day.
September 27th- International Tourism Day
Close

Seven days in Athens can be a blur if you do not pace yourself. The sheer amount of museums in Athens, sculpture after sculpture, and rooms filled with century old artifacts, can blend together if you rush through the museums. The bulk of my experience…Read More

Seven days in Athens can be a blur if you do not pace yourself. The sheer amount of museums in Athens, sculpture after sculpture, and rooms filled with century old artifacts, can blend together if you rush through the museums. The bulk of my experience in Athens held some kind of museum or ruin. The city is a blend of old and new, with the old ruins and the new city built around it. I feel as though I missed out on the new by focusing solely on the old.
Though I spent a fair amount of time riding through the city on the metro, bus or train, I only whipped past places I would have liked to visit. The group that I traveled with had already made a strict itinerary that left little down time. Though the historical ruins of Athens are fantastic, I would suggest viewing some current attractionss such as the shopping district and Monastraiki. By the end of my journey I had made a list of places I had liked to go but was not able to make it. Often times the journey is not in the destination but how you get there, and I enjoyed getting to places more than I enjoyed being there.
The sites from the ruins are beautiful; there is no getting around that fact. There is a humbling presence that can be sensed by everyone on the premises. Once again there is the awe that people in ancient times could have the tools and the knowledge to build such artifacts. We have only tried to build and improve the objects they have already invented.
Not only did I get to view one of the most popular sites, the Acropolis, but I even had the chance to dine at a restaurant that had a wonderful view of it lit up at night. The food and the view were both once in a lifetime events. Though the food was higher on the price scale, it was worth the money to dine at the restaurant. It is not often that someone gets to travel across the globe and dine while viewing one of the greatest pieces of architecture known to man. The disheartening aspect was that for the first few days in Athens, I walked around the Acropolis from every angle but did not go inside until four days into the journey. It is best to go see the Acropolis as soon as possible because once you get used to seeing a sight the beauty and wonder diminishes, and it becomes a normal thing instead of a memory that should be cherished.
Each ruin is a museum in and of itself. It holds the history of what happened there and descriptions of how it was built. Information that was passed down from generation to generation and artifacts that were researched by archaeologists are told in informational pamphlets passed out during the entry process. It is easy to get dates and architects mixed up when the information is pushed into your brain in a short amount of time. I suggest viewing one museum every three days, just to spread out the information for retaining purposes.
The three museums I viewed within a short amount of time were the Acropolis Museum, the National Museum, and the Delphi Archaeological Museum. All were informational and intriguing. Archaeologists have dedicated their lives to finding ancient artifacts that have been buried for centuries under rocks or have been displaced in shipwrecks. Dedication in that form puts more value on the museum because their hard work is displayed. However, the frequency with which I visited the museums led to the experience being a blur. I cannot tell you what piece of information was from which museum, especially not specific details.
This is not to say that the museums were in any way boring or unimportant, or that the information was meaningless. I mean I would have retained more information and taken more from the museums if they were spread out. The tours were aspects in which I learned more about the culture from observing people. The victims of my observation were the tour guides. The guide for the Acropolis and the National museums was an older woman who spoke emphatically with her hands and had a large amount of Greek pride. She treated each person in the tour group as if they were her children, only she sugar-coated nothing and sometimes picked on members of the group. She had the perfect balance of caring yet not being too over-attentive. Her kindness did not seem fake in anyway and she was an honest woman, a traditional Greek mother. Coincidentally her niece was the guide for Delphi, and they shared similar traits. Both interacted with the group and made the tour personal. However, in talking with the younger guide, some generational differences were apparent. While the older guide was gentle yet stern, the younger guide had a fiery personality. She spoke about the financial crisis with passion and approached it as an open topic instead of a topic that should not be discussed in public. Her opinion was firm and revolutionary. The traditional Greek life and the new revolutionary Greek differences were apparent.
The adventure that separates itself from the pack was the view from Lycabettus Hill. This hill is the highest point in Athens and gives you a perfect view of all edges of the city. This was where old Athens met new Athens. The old marble from the ruins mixed with the new shiny communities that surrounded the Acropolis. Glimmering solar panels and water heaters sat on top of houses and apartments blocks away from the Acropolis. A new park was built surrounding the ruins of an old temple. A few streets away was the shopping district. The balance represented a change that was occurring in Greece. The old and the new had to find a way to coexist together, the generational gap and traditions had to make room for fresh ideas. That epiphany occurred thousands of feet above the city, above the noise of cars and loud Greek voices. Looking down at the differences in architecture and how the city was shape it became apparent that the city is still in transition and both the old and the new must come in moderation.
Close

Athens is commonly known as the home of democracy, the center for philosophy, arts, astronomy and biology. To summarize, Athens was a major powerhouse for ingenuity and creation. Now, with the economic crisis stirring within Greece, it is no surprise that a social…Read More

Athens is commonly known as the home of democracy, the center for philosophy, arts, astronomy and biology. To summarize, Athens was a major powerhouse for ingenuity and creation. Now, with the economic crisis stirring within Greece, it is no surprise that a social and political revolution is starting in Greece’s capitol, Athens.
The revolution was caused by the many austerity measures being passed by the government due to the poor economic situation in Greece. These measures were not well received and brought about some panic among the Greek people, who no longer knew what they could trust in or where to put their faith. This created a divide between the older and the younger generations; while the older generations found their hope in church, the younger generations created anarchy.
The best way to see this divide is to observe by walking through the streets of Athens and riding the metro, two common activities for the Athenian residents. As you people-watch you will immediately notice that the men and women over the ages of fifty are dressed extremely nicely. The men wear nice loafers, khakis, a long sleeved shirt and a suit jacket of some kind. The women either wear nice dresses or a fancy shirt and pants, showing that they are trying to represent themselves well, that they have not given up hope on themselves or on their nation.
While they still have hope, they also have many worries to counterbalance them. This is signified in the worry beads that they habitually swing around their fingers wherever they go. Or, by the cigarettes that never leave their fingertips as they chain-smoke. However, they make sure to add you to their worries and many will come up to you to warn about the threat of pickpocketing in various locations.
The elderly generation is the most heartbreaking, since it is they who have arguably lost the most. Now, they do not know if they will be able to receive the benefits they were expecting, or at what age they will receive them. This has caused some to try and come out of retirement or to put off retirement entirely. The lucky ones who still have their jobs have continued to work at their bakery stands, their little kiosks or in other various locations in the city. At first it surprised me to see men and women continuing to work well past the age that American seniors would retire, but then as this becomes a common sight you become used to it. The unlucky elders who have to come out of retirement must busy themselves with searching for jobs, but since they no longer possess youthful and able bodies, some resort to begging. It is painful to watch an elderly woman who has a wrinkle for every worry that she has wearing a long black dress, a black hair cloth and sensible black shoes peddling a small pack of Kleenex’s.
When the elderly can’t be found in the town, the square or at their jobs, they will be in the church. At any time the churches will be packed, with well dressed and worried seniors. They are deep in prayer, lighting candles, or listening to a sermon. They look to God to help them through these difficult times and hope that He won’t disappoint them as their government has.
The younger generation is completely different. Many of them (and since the university is in Athens, there are many of them) wear jeans, t-shirts and sneakers. Although this is typical attire for the youth, the Athenian youth bring it one step further because their clothes are generally dirty or they possess holes. They act like they don’t care about anything anymore; they want change but they have no hope that this change will come about.
The first thing that you notice as you make your way through Athens is the massive amount of graffiti located everywhere in the city. At first glance, this makes the city look dirty, trashy and almost intimidating. But once you look closer at the pictures and the words, the beauty and the meaning of this rare form of artwork comes to you. It is created by angry youth, who have much to say but feel that the government is not listening to them. While the pictures of the distorted faces of creatures in gas masks and the vulgar language is haunting, it also is deeply touching and at the end of the day remarkable. The murals of graffiti across the entire city of Athens make the metropolis into a beautiful mess. But, there is more to this free artwork than just beauty and appeal. The young artists are just as unsure about the future as the elderly generations, but rather than turning to God and turning to the church, they create their outlet through creative expression and recreational drug use.
Drug use is running rampant through the younger generations. Hoards of the youth can be seen at various times of the day doing their drug of choice. Needles can be clearly seen as they are used to do a heroin injection, and crack pipes are laid out in the open for everyone to see. The mass amounts of well-armed police officers do not really do anything to punish these drug users, and are very lenient towards them. While this is a depressing situation among the younger generation, it is also understandable. While the older adults have faith that things are going to work out, the young adults lack this faith. They have no answers for anything in their life, they might have to leave Greece to seek jobs, since there is a huge shortage of job opportunities. This could be the reason that many of the young people always feel on edge, like they were a lit firecracker that would explode at any moment.
This large amount of angry energy that vibrates through their veins could also be the reason that many protests occur in Athens. These protests occur in the streets of Athens but usually end in front of the parliament building. There are also signs that are posted throughout the city to describe the protestors’ cause. While these protests are more often than not scheduled and organized, some of them can quickly become out of control and inevitably end up on the television.
The youth disgruntlement affects the city by making it dirty; and not a New York or Chicago dirty, but an entirely new definition of filthy. There is litter everywhere, used cigarettes are strewn along the ground. The entire city reeks of urine and waste, while the streets and sidewalks always manage to have unidentified water on them. It seems as though city workers are unable to keep up with the crazy adolescents.
The blatant drug use, the disharmony between the older and younger generations and the protesting resemble the United States in the 1960s, which might interest some travelers. Although this is a scary time for Athens, and for Greece altogether, it is also an excellent time to visit this city. It is an eye opening experience, one that some people will take full advantage of by learning about the Greek people and making observations about how it affects them.
Once Athens navigates its way through this crisis period, the country can again be restored to its old title of a powerhouse country. The city needs to be cleaned, the rift between the younger and older generations needs to be mended and hopefully the economic crisis will be resolved in order to better this country. However, while this chaos and discord is occurring in Athens, the old monuments and ruins are still there strewn amongst the people, reminding them of what their country once was. These ruins give hope to the Athenians that they will survive these hardships and once again rise back as a nation.


Close

Organized chaos: this is the only thought racing through my mind as I walk the streets of Athens. As an outsider to this city, it is next to impossible for me to find the patterns and organization I am used to seeing in large…Read More

Organized chaos: this is the only thought racing through my mind as I walk the streets of Athens. As an outsider to this city, it is next to impossible for me to find the patterns and organization I am used to seeing in large cities in the United States. Everywhere I look I see people walking in every direction, cars speeding by, and motorized scooters testing their luck by weaving in and out of the fast-paced traffic. I will be the first to admit that I was not entirely eager to pack up from the island of Aegina and head to Athens for a week, but somehow, by the weekend I had fallen in love with the city. I had come to realize this was a city caught in a constant waltz between the new and the old.
My first impression of Athens was that it was filthy from top to bottom. I wasn’t able to look past the trash covering the streets, graffiti lining the walls, and the thick smog that blanketed the city and choked me. I witnessed open drug use, public indecency, and several heated arguments, and was convinced I was never going to find beauty in such a city. As the week progressed, I found myself noticing small details I had previously overlooked. The streets, which before had looked as though they were constantly on the brink of a ten- car pile-up, started to seem more like an organized dance. The cars before looked to be driving in the middle of two lanes, swerving to miss the moving obstacles, and honking up a storm. After spending time carefully observing this, I realized that there was a system and a pattern to this driving. The honking wasn’t angry honking, but instead a simple way of communication between cars. When one car wished to move into another lane, it was not necessary to use a blinker, only to start merging. This created an understanding for the surrounding cars and they moved over to make room. The scooters seem to have their own place on the road. They whiz in and out of the cars with ease. There is an unspoken rule that they have the right to head to the front of the pack. Even though the driving seems to be chaotic, it is actually organized with a deep understanding of the rules by all of the drivers on the road.
When walking around Athens, graffiti lines the walls of the buildings in an overwhelming display of artwork, originality, and creativity. It is easy to overlook this graffiti and think that it is just words spray painted by angry youth. I took the time one afternoon to sit and observe this graffiti and discovered that there was so much more to it; it was a message from the younger generation of inhabitants of the city. The most dramatic of the pieces painted on the walls would be the black and white characters that stood ten feet high. They were strictly black and white, with detail that mimics some of the great artwork found in museums. The eyes of these characters reflected the pain and hardship that could be seen in the eyes of the people living all over Greece. The words and phrases painted on the walls also stick out in my mind; they were the words of the youth of Athens calling for change. Some of the phrases were so powerful and painted such a picture that I was able to emphasize with them, and feel their pain and struggle.
While the buildings, traffic, and graffiti add detail and character to the city, it is the people that give it life. At first, it is difficult to notice all of the diversity of the people in the city, but I found myself observing all types of life while in the metro station. With the economic difficulties that Greece is facing, there are many people struggling to get by. They walk past, begging for a single euro to grab a lunch, or sit on the side of the road attempting to sell items that hardly anyone gives a second glance at. These people look like they are living the hard life that many people in America will never experience. Their haunting eyes and pleading voices pull at my heartstrings, but they have become a part of Athens that will be there for many years to come considering that fifty percent of young adults are unemployed. While there may be a large amount of the population that is struggling for money, there is still a prominent rich population. The wealthy section of people in Athens dress from head to toe in class clothing, and carry themselves with a sense of pride. The women wear beautiful dresses, purses, and jewelry, while the men wear nice shirts, pants, and shoes shined so spotless that they could serve as a mirror. The store and restaurant owners in the Plaka stand in front of their stores with warm smiles and gesture inside while shouting how they serve the best Greek salad, or that they are positive that they have just the t-shirt you are looking for. I learned that going into the shops and having a five minute conversation helped me learn more of what life was like for these people of Greece.
One warm afternoon, I found myself in a shop filled from top to bottom with t-shirts of all kinds. The store owner, a man comparable to the size of the men in the movie 300, stood eagerly anticipating a good conversation with the four Americans that had just walked into his store. He explained to us that he had lived in South Carolina for several years. "The people of Greece say ‘God bless America’ because we love America! If people don’t love America then they have never been there. Europeans wear American, eat American, watch American, and act American, of course we love it!" He then eagerly smiled at my classmates and I, wanting to know more about our lives and who we were. I introduced myself and received a handshake more like a death grip. "You look Greek, you even have a Greek nose!" he exclaimed while tapping my nose, slapping my cheek, and handing me a penny he said would find me a Greek husband. He then greeted Katie by pinching her cheeks so hard, that mine ached just by watching. "Here is a lucky penny for you, so you can meet a nice Greek husband. I will introduce you to my son!" He then turned to Sharri and slapped her arm and exclaimed she would soon find a nice Greek man like Brandon. Brandon was his next victim, who had the look of fear in his eyes, because he knew what was coming. "This is a nice, sexy, strong man!" he exclaimed. While I may have been manhandled for a couple of minutes, I walked out of the store chuckling about the overly friendly shop owner. By making these connections, I found myself falling in love with the bustling city and all of its inhabitants.
Besides the people of Athens, perhaps the most interesting part of the city is its battle between the old and the new. When walking through the streets of Athens it is easy to get lost in the maze of apartments, stores, and skyscrapers when all of a sudden you stumble upon an ancient ruin hidden between the buildings. The shock of finding such a beautiful memory of the past tucked into the hustle and bustle of the city is enough to make anyone stop in their tracks in awe. The tall columns of the Temple of the Olympian Zeus stand in graceful silence compared to the dirty buildings surrounding it. The significance and history hangs heavy over this temple as if to remind every passerby that the ancient Greeks, who created the base for the knowledge we hold today, once walked there. The Acropolis is a divine example of this mixture of the old and the new of the city. The Acropolis can be seen from almost any part of the city, standing tall, almost as if to watch over Athens. Once on top of the Acropolis you can walk around the crumbing ruins as the great philosophers once did while also having a bird’s eye view of Athens. The simplicity of the new buildings of the city make the ruins seem that much more detailed and impressive.
These two generations of buildings play off of each other and add a dynamic to the city unmatched by any other. The people, graffiti, and bustling traffic make it a confusing city that is filled to the brim with excitement and an unmatched diversity. While it may have taken me several days to piece together my experiences in the extreme city, it was a trip that shaped my views of Greece. Close

The closest port to Athens in Pireaus which is very close to the city itself.We purchased a full-day tour from the ship excursion desk called A Taste of Athens which is the only full day tour available. I did my online research including several…Read More

The closest port to Athens in Pireaus which is very close to the city itself.

We purchased a full-day tour from the ship excursion desk called A Taste of Athens which is the only full day tour available. I did my online research including several sites like Port Promotions and they didn’t have the full day tour available for the date of arrival. Port Promotions did have a half day tour which you get to see the Acropolis etc. but not the full day tour which the ship excursion offered.

BASIC INFORMATION: Most people do speak a good amount of English here. The currency of the city is the Euro though I hear some shops actually take U.S. dollars. As far as dress is concerned, I got away with wearing a short sleeve shorts, jeans and a good pair of walking shoes because there is a bit of walking up hill and some steps to get to the Acropolis. Greece is mostly a Christian and as far is pickpockets and crime is concerned, it is a bit of a concern so exercise the standard precautions. Nothing in the back pocket, purses zipped up and always in front of you. For guys, a good money clip with the essentials in the front pocket of your jeans was perfect for me and served me well. My cell phone on the right pocket for time keeping as well as emergencies a must.
The tour guide appropriately named Nikola for this cruise was very knowledgeable about Ancient Greek history and culture. She kept mentioning how most of the English words today came from the Greek word X and that word in Greek is the route word of X. Kind of like that movie "My Big Fat Greek Wedding" where they joke about everyone is named Nicholas or some version of that and that the father of the bride can’t stop asking people, "Give me a word, any word and I will tell you how that word originated from Greek…" Luckily, I didn’t have anyone spray me with Windex through the trip. The tour ended in the Plaka shopping district where my wife and I enjoy collecting refrigerator magnets to each destination we go to. Plaka district is very safe because it is generally a pedestrian area but once and a while a rude local will drive their car through but they tend to drive slowly enough for you to get out of the way.
Close

Athens proper isn’t a very big city, it has only 750 000 inhabitants, but one can’t notice where the city begins and ends, what appears to be one city is a conurbation of several independent cities and towns with a population of approximately four…Read More

Athens proper isn’t a very big city, it has only 750 000 inhabitants, but one can’t notice where the city begins and ends, what appears to be one city is a conurbation of several independent cities and towns with a population of approximately four million people, more than one third of the Greek population lives there.

It was only after WW2 that Athens began to grow or rather to explode as people migrated from the villages and islands to find work, this means that most of the houses in the suburbs are relatively new and not very pretty.

We had chosen a hotel between Syntagma Square and the Plaka, the historical centre, from there we could reach all the sites on foot. We set out at about 7pm, it was already dark and we looked closely at the buildings and the (elegant) shops we passed so that we wouldn’t get lost and find our way back to the hotel. It’s easy, though, to find the Plaka, one has only to stay on the main street (most of which is a pedestrian precinct) and walk slightly down, the Plaka is at the end, the Monastiraki Square is its heart.

One doesn’t have to concentrate too much on where one puts one’s feet on the pavement, I didn’t notice any dog poop, in fact the whole city was very clean, we even saw a sweep at work in the evening, a positive consequence of the Olympic Games in 2004 for which Athens was completely overhauled. Athens wanted to have the centenary Olympic Games in 1996 but didn’t get them because the environmental and infrastructure problems were too great. Should you know Athens from before the Olympic Games in 2004 and found the city ugly and un-livable then, think again or better: come again, it’s really nice now.

While walking in the direction of the Plaka we saw a bright light from the left whenever there was an opening in the row of houses. It came from the Acropolis! The Acropolis (literally: upper town, there are many acropoles in Greece) is a flat topped rock of 150 m (512 ft) of blue limestone with some temples on top, the whole sites illuminated, very impressive, we had planned to climb up the following morning.

The Plaka is the oldest section of Athens, the houses are simple and a bit run-down, the streets are closed for traffic and people just mill around. There are shops selling tourist stuff, there’s a big flea market all the year round and loads of cafés and restaurants. I read in a guide book that if you sit in one of these cafés long enough you’ll see that everyone who comes to Greece will walk down the streets of the Plaka sooner or later, the description culminates in the sentence, "These streets below the Acropolis are a major crossroads of civilisation."

We were hungry and went to one of the restaurants, to us they all looked alike, they all had tables outside and offered the same food. The menus are short, they contain only a few dishes, the typical Greek food like moussaka, souvlaki, pastitsio. The service was very quick; although it was February and there were hardly any tourists, the waiters had a lot to do, the tables inside and outside in the street were all crammed full with Greeks.

As we wanted to see Athens by day we skipped the night life and went back to the hotel, the following morning we went back to the Plaka and from there through one of the entrance gates into the area of the Acropolis (April – October daily from 8am to 7pm, November – March from 8.30am to 3pm). We didn’t stay in the lower part and look at the temple and the other buildings there but climbed up for about ten minutes, got out of the enclosed area , crossed a street and came to another entrance gate. About 50m below it is a small house where visitors have to leave their bags and rucksacks (free).

The first attraction after the entrance is the Theatre of Dionysos, we only looked down at it from above, I don’t know if it’s possible to get in. This is where all the plays of the great Greek dramatists like Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides were first performed, small as it is, it impressed me most of all the buildings on the acropolis.

At the top of the hill there is a monumental gateway called the Propylaea, behind it to the left is the Erechteum with columns sculpted as figures of women and at the centre is the Parthenon or Temple of Athena Pathenos. Why was I not impressed? The Acropolis has been a building site since 1975, the word most often used on the placards explaining what’s what is ‘dismantled’, the stones are taken away, cleaned, impregnated with chemical stuff so that they can withstand pollution and are then placed again where they belong. One tiny temple at the near right of the Propylaea, the Temple of Athena Nike, has disappeared completely for restoration – there’s simply not enough to see for me at the moment. I doubt, however, that I’ll live long enough to see the Acropolis in its full glory again.

We stumbled around a bit, tried to imagine what the site looked like when the temples were new and complete but couldn’t, looked down at the city and found it much too large and then went back out. We followed the fence until we came to the first entrance gate where we had got in in the morning, got into the site again and had a close look at the best conserved temple of the whole of Greece, the Temple of Hephaistos, imagining the Athens of the 5th century BC when it was a centre of literature, philosophy and the arts. Maybe Sophocles, Aristotle and Plato - to name but a few - walked around philosophising just where we were walking?

Had we been to Athens for the first time we would have gone to the National Archaeological Museum in the afternoon, but we had already seen it during our last visit.

We went to a café at the foot of the Acropolis instead, the sun was shining brightly, and we watched the Atheneans parading by. It was Saturday afternoon, I expected everyone to be dressed up and made up, well, maybe they were but if so, I didn’t notice it. This was Athens, the capital, but the people looked plain if anything, nearly everyone, young or old, male or female was wearing jeans and inconspicuous jackets or anoraks, no interesting hairstyles to speak of. I didn’t see dyed hair, gel, piercings, tattoos, can’t say that I like all this but I think people wearing these things just belong to a capital, don’t you?

When it was getting a bit chilly, we walked back in the direction of our hotel but went a bit further to the Syntagma Square in front of the Parliament building. By chance we were there a bit before 5 o’clock when the changing of the (two) guards took place at the tomb of the unknown soldier (the big ceremony takes place every Sunday at 11am). I’m hopeless at such occasions, I have severe probs suppressing silly giggles, pomposity always gets to me. You can’t imagine the way the soldiers are dressed! Pompons on their shoes, white tights and a miniskirt! And the choreography they perform until they’ve changed places! Hilarious.

From there we walked a bit into the Venizelou street in the direction of Omonia Square, now this is a street fitting for a capital, wide pavements, stately buildings (the National Library, the University, a church on the right) if you’re into shopping, you’ll head for Attica on the other side of the street, the largest, most complete and most modern department store of the country. As shopping is a necessity for me, not a pleasure I only peeped in, imagine a big department store in Oxford Street, London, and you’ve got it. A brochure informed me that it contains 300 shops in the shop and has 800 different brand names on offer, if you bring enough money with you, you’ll certainly be happy there.

We spent the evening in another café also sitting outside but near an electric heating system, read, relaxed and discussed what we had seen and what we hadn’t. We came to the conclusion that two days were enough for Athens, on the second day a first time visitor could see a museum or two and visit Piraeus, the city with the harbour that has merged with Athens or go on an excursion.

For us it was a short but pleasant visit, we may not wait another thirty years before we go back!


Close

Unfortunately, with the strength of the Euro, dining in Athens can prove to be a considerable expense. Although most of the restaurants in Athens are traditional Greek restaurants, there can be a wide variation in prices, and it is worth checking out the menu before…Read More

Unfortunately, with the strength of the Euro, dining in Athens can prove to be a considerable expense. Although most of the restaurants in Athens are traditional Greek restaurants, there can be a wide variation in prices, and it is worth checking out the menu before you walk in and sit down. It goes without saying that those places a little off the beaten track have to offer better food and keener prices to stay in business.

Fortunately, for those on a budget, there are many bakers in Athens, all selling delicious and cheap savoury snacks. We decided to grab a snack from one of these places for one of our meals each day, and enjoyed the cheese pastry made with feta, the sausage roll, made from traditional spicy kebab meat, the spinach and feta tart, and small pizza breads. It’s not difficult to enjoy your snack on the hoof, and it saves a fortune over a few days.

When you do go for the splurge and eat at a restaurant, it’s important to factor in paying a couple of Euro extra for the bowl of crusty bread and water served at each table as standard. On the plus side, tipping isn’t necessarily expected in Athens, and so you do not need to go overboard with leaving the obligatory 10% tip.

As you have a considerable amount of bread, you can get by with ordering something like a simple Greek Salad, or a plate of calamari for a filling meal. If you do order a main course, it is worth checking what the meal comes with; some restaurants provide chips, rice or salad (or a combination) with the main course, others will just serve a meal of meat and sauce. Of course, in those situations, that bread can come in handy, so don’t eat it all while you are waiting for your meal to arrive.

If you are anything like me, alcohol can prove to be a considerable portion of your vacation meal costs. Look out for places that serve house wine by the half litre or litre. These are wines purchased direct from a local farmer, and stored in a large barrel rather than a separate bottle. The wines are of variable quality, and it’s a very bad sign when your red wine arrives chilled! However, even the best Greek wine isn’t particularly special, so is it worth paying out extra for what can only ever be an average wine?

Beer is expensive in Athens, and we were seeing some prices north of 4.50 Euros for a small bottle in the nicer bars. Obviously, the local beer tends to be cheaper – there is the slightly strong tasting Mythos and the softer and subtler Alpha generally to chose from. Look for restaurants serving large 500 cl size bottles, as these are better value.

If you like Ouzo, this can be a good choice. Many restaurants serve Ouzo in 20cl bottles, which equates to approximately nine units of alcohol – a handy amount for 2 or 3 diners. This will work out cheaper than a couple of beers will. Your Ouzo will arrive with a bowl of ice cubes and water. Pop the ice cubes into your glass, pour over the Ouzo and watch the clear liquid become cloudy. Add water to get your preferred strength. Ouzo has a strong aniseed taste, so most Greeks dilute their drink quite heavily.

While on the subject of Greek restaurants, it’s worth spending a little time discussing the bathroom, as it’s always quite an adventure!

Fortunately, bathroom standards are much higher in Athens these days, and it is quite difficult to find a dirty or unusable bathroom. However, the underground sewerage system is as poor as ever. This means that even items such as toilet tissue cannot simply be flushed away. As a result, Athens bathrooms in hotels, restaurants or anywhere else will always have a discreetly placed bin for you to put your used paper. While it can be disconcerting not to flush away the paper, many visitors soon get into the swing, and it is not as unpleasant as you might imagine.

Many restaurants are energy conscious and you may find the bathroom dark and unlit. Look out for the light switch, which are normally on the outside of the bathroom.

Another bit of fun comes with the hunt the toilet flush device. A bewildering array of methods await, be it a traditional flush attached to the water tank, a pull button attached just under a high mounted water closet, an automatic "motion" sensor (sorry!) or a foot pedal to flush. Getting water from a tap can be as equally daunting.
Close

Athens, for all its attractions, is also one of the biggest travel fulcrums in the world.From here tourists head off in a dozen directions. The famous islands seem to be the most popular destination and many visitors roll off the airplane, spend a day gawping…Read More

Athens, for all its attractions, is also one of the biggest travel fulcrums in the world.

From here tourists head off in a dozen directions. The famous islands seem to be the most popular destination and many visitors roll off the airplane, spend a day gawping at the Acropolis, then head straight for the ferries. From Piraeus you can reach the Dodecanese, the Sporades, Rhodes, Crete and even Israel and Egypt. Every traveller in the world does the Greek ferries at one point. They are part of world mythology. For many people the sunshine and sand of the myriad of islands is a lure as strong as the 'song of Circe'. And most pass through the memorable port of Piraeus.

And this is a port of the old school. Greece is all about experiences and in this age of the modern airplane it is one of the few places in the world where you can partake of a "voyage" such those which went on before the age of jet travel. You can experience the mooring rope being thrown off, the last passengers making a dash for the gangplank and that feeling of excitement in the pit of your stomach that an adventure has just started.Of course it is not all about the glamour of travelling by ship. Piraeus is a big grimy port handling millions of passengers. The peak rush hour happens very early in the morning (when the ships leave) and late in the afternoon (when the ships come in). In between it's a bustling suburb which still gets its living from the sea.

Practicalities

So you want to get to the islands?

There are ticket agents galore around the METRO station and along the quayside. But the last thing you want is to be stuck in the queue for a ticket while your ship gets ready to raise anchor. I recommend buying a ticket the day before. There are numerous travel agencies in central Athens especially around Omonia Square. But be careful - I bought one to Mykonos the day I arrived, and when I doublechecked the Polish ticket agent sold me a ship departing from Patras over 40 miles from Athens - so I had to go back and change it. Ticket prices start at about 20 euros to the Cyclades and up to 60 euros for as far away as Crete and Rhodes. Also, if you can, try and book a seat. The advantages of this will become obvious later in this journal.

OK, you are clutching your little ticket. How do I get to the boats from Central Athens. Athens' new spiffy METRO, polished in time for the 2004 Olympics, will whisk you there from Omonia, Akropolis or Syntagma. The journey takes about half an hour and the ticket is about 6 euros. There are two "rush hours" from Piraeus, early morning and late evening, and both create quite a crush in the METRO carriages. Taxis to Piraeus from Omonia/Syntagma only cost about 8 euros.

When you get there most of the crowds will be heading in the same direction as you. Head out the side entrance and to the south of here the great ships, hundreds of feet high, loom out of the darkness. Whatever you do - go by the ferry company name. If you are lucky you may have "Blue Star" or "Minoan" lit up in neon letters making things easier. The ships to the Cyclades are directly across from the METRO station. But the Argo-Saronic ships are further along the port and the direct ships to Crete are a five minute walk away. Separating the METRO station from the water is a busy road called Akti Kalimasioti - part of the refurbishment of Piraeus means there is an escalator/footbridge connecting with the other side.

The Ferries

So you have found your ship and patiently queue to be let on. Firstly, they make you stow your luggage in the hold. No one is allowed their luggage up on deck with them. Therefore your luggage will be put in a pile with hundreds of others, make sure you remember exactly where you stowed it so as to avoid any embarrassing panics when you disembark. I didn't - and I am still under the psychotherapist.

Up on deck there is no doubt the ferries have improved from the creaking rust buckets of yesteryear but these cash-cows still try to cram in as many people as possible. Every conceivable space will be full of people - families will grab tables, backgammon sets will be brought out and people set up camp in the passageways. That is why it is important to prebook seats. The reserved area has aircraft style seats with good views outside the windows. There are restaurants and coffee bars aboard the ferries but most serve snack food, not a sit down meal. Many passengers bring their own provisions.

But if you can spend as much time as you can on the upper deck. The views can be stupendous - we had the great white bulk of the 'Oriana' cruiseliner pass us by as we left Piraeus. And Piraeus itself looks impressive at night with all the buildings lit up in the darkness.. But best of all are the islands as you pass by. Before you reach your destination you are likely to stop at a minimum of two. And as amusing as the mad scramble of motorbikes and tourists up the gangplank is - nothing quite beats the sight of the islands themselves with their starkly barren brown cliffs, Mediterranean architecture, wheeling gulls, and medieval fishing villages -all washed in golden Aegean sunlight.

Truly a special part of the world.Close