The Hanseatic League, also known by its Latin name Liga Hanseatica, or simply as Hansa or Hanse in the Germanic dialects of the low countries, was an association of merchant cities and trading guilds that run, and more or less dominated, the trade, particularly the…Read More

The Hanseatic League, also known by its Latin name Liga Hanseatica, or simply as Hansa or Hanse in the Germanic dialects of the low countries, was an association of merchant cities and trading guilds that run, and more or less dominated, the trade, particularly the sea trade of Northern Europe. Its member cities were either inhabited by Low German merchants or funded on the Magdeburg Law, but it also incorporated numerous trading posts (called ''kontor'') as far as London, Paris and Novgorod. As a political and trading body it was particularly influential in the southern Baltic, from Tallinn in the east to Bremen in the west, and stretched inland to Breslau (Wroclaw), Krakow and Cologne; with the main period of activity falling in the Late Middle Ages and early modern period.

The heritage of the Hansa can be clearly seen now, from the Northern Gothic and Flemish Renaissance architecture of many cities to their strong Protestant influences, long-standing commercial traditions and a certain affinity with each other.

This heritage is also still celebrated in many towns of the former Hansa, either as a historical memory to be proud of or as an official designation. Among German cities, several bear the name of the ''Hansestadt'' (the Hansacity), which is even prominent on their car registration plates with Hamburg for example bearing HH and Lübeck, HL. The latter, now the second city in the land of Schleswig-Holstein, was for several centuries the "capital" of the League and still remains a busy and prosperous port.

For a visitor, it's one of the most attractive cities in Northern Germany, small enough to be manageable and pleasant, while big enough to be interesting. It is also very beautiful, with painstakingly restored and, because of its Northern Gothic architectural monuments. It is, in fact, on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Situated picturesquely on the river Trave, Lubeck has many lovely buildings to admire and explore, of which the most interesting are all examples of the Northern Gothic.

The Holstentor (Holstein Tower or Gate) is an icon of the city; a massive brick-built gate with two round towers and conical helms; influenced by Flemish architecture and emblematic of the Romanticised version of the Brick Gothic. Inside holds a museum devoted to the history of the city, including a model of Lubeck as it was 300 years ago.

Peterkirche (St Peter's Church) has a tower that is by far the best viewpoint in the city, offering fantastic views over the monuments of Old Lubeck. The viewing platform is some 50m above ground and you can see all the iconic monuments, with St Mary's and the Holstein Gate, the canals and the cathedral. There is a lift up and the price of 3 Euros is really very reasonable for such a vantage point (and no need to climb). Highly recommended.

Other two fabulous Brick Gothic churches that add to the city's skyline are St-Marien-Kirche (St Mary's Church) and Dom zu Lübeck (the cathedral), each of these boasting sky-high towers on the front façade, with slender, copper-green pinnacles.

Heiligen Geist Hospital is also a fascinating place to visit, another Gothic building but this time not a church, but a former medieval hospital, or perhaps more of an alms-house, a combination of a care home, hospice and hospital dating to 1286. The inhabitants received bed and board, and from 18th century onwards were even entitled to eights hot baths a year! Nowadays the Hospital is a care home, but it's possible to visit a large former chapel, with interesting frescoes and generally beautifully decorated interior.

**

Picture of Holsten Torr by JonMcAlister, via flickr, under Creative Commons licence.   Close

The Hanseatic League (in Germa, simply Hanse) was formed during the 13th century by a guild of traders. However, it soon changed into a loose confederation of cities that banded together to promote trade. They were in favor of free trade; free more in the…Read More

The Hanseatic League (in Germa, simply Hanse) was formed during the 13th century by a guild of traders. However, it soon changed into a loose confederation of cities that banded together to promote trade. They were in favor of free trade; free more in the sense of free amongst members than free for all.

The Hanse was at its peak during the 14th and 15th centuries. During this period, when the German (Holy Roman) emperor and princes were constantly fighting to erode each other’s powers, the Hanse became the strongest political force in the German-speaking world. The Hanse was generally in favor of peace, as peace is conducive to trade. However, it did not shy away from war, either, when its interests were threatened. The peak of the Hanse’s economic power coincided with the peak of its military might when Denmark was militarily forced out of the Eastern Baltic Sea region at the end of the 14th century.

The Hanse had no formal constitution or procedures. Infrequent meeting would be called, usually in Lübeck, where representatives of the towns would debate the issue at hand and take decisions by consensus. In total, around 164 towns belonged to it at one time or another—a formal list was never kept! Although the Hanse is mostly associated with the port cities of northern Germany, especially on the Baltic Sea, many members were inland and supplied mined materials, wood, and agricultural products to trade with the Baltic region. Hanseatic cities, including Lübeck, were usually ruled by a small, rich patrician elite who generally had little scruples about suppressing the lower classes. It was not a fixed rule, but cities ruled by nobles were generally not included in the league—Berlin, for example, was forced out after the Hohenzollerns moved in. Throughout the existence of the Hanse, Lübeck was the richest and most powerful city in the League and known as the Queen of the Hanse.

The Hanseatic Leagues decline was due to the development of nation states strong enough to challenge the league’s trade monopoly. During the 16th century, the Hanse was forced out of London and Amsterdam, and by the end of the century was a shadow of its former self. The final blow was the destructive Thirty Years’ War (1618-48). Around a third of the general population in Germany died during this period—mostly of starvation. In terms of percentage of the population killed, it was the worst war in German history (possibly also in European history). The war, which started as a squabble over the religion of the king of Bohemia, involved all European powers fighting on German soil. Apart from the various German states, the war also involved Austria, Spain, France, England, Holland, Denmark, and Sweden—alliances and allegiances changed frequently. The war formally ended with the Peace of Westphalia (1648)—the treaty took four years to negotiate (simultaneously in two Westphalian towns) with considerable time spent on protocol issues. Who should enter the hall last: the queen of Spain or the king of France?

It also meant the end of the Hanse—trade routes were permanently altered, many areas were impoverished, and Sweden occupied former Hanseatic cities in the north of Germany. Although the last Hansetage took place only in 1669, the league has long been a spent force. Only six cities attended the final meeting in Lübeck.

Lübeck went into decline from the 17th century onwards. Changing trade routes meant that its access to the Baltic Sea had little advantage. The Swedish preferred to use Wismar, which it controlled until the early nineteenth century, while Prussia gave preference to Stettin (now in modern-day Poland). The Dutch sailed around Denmark, rather than unloading cargo in Hamburg for overland transportation to Lübeck. Hamburg, which played second-fiddle to Lübeck in the Hanseatic League, increasingly used its access to the Atlantic to its advantage to become Germany’s gateway to the world. Modern-day Hamburg has 1.6 million inhabitants—eight times the size of modern-day Lübeck.

Lübeck saw a minor revival in its fortunes at the end of the 19th century, when a canal linking the rivers Trave and Elbe were completed to improve trade opportunities. Following the Second World War, Lübeck doubled its population, with refugees fleeing from former German territories in Eastern Europe. Ever since, Lübeck has been a relatively rich city with dynamic industries, in addition to tourism.

Politically, Lübeck has been less successful since the end of the Hanseatic League. Lubeck managed to remain an independent city-state inside the German Empire and later Republic, but lost this status during the 1930s. After the Second World War, Lübeck attempted to regain city-state status similarly to Hamburg and Bremen, but its attempts were thwarted and it became a provincial town in the larger state of Schleswig-Holstein.

The Hanseatic city-states of Bremen and Hamburg have long included Hanse in their official names to remind of the glory years of centuries past. In recent years, former East German cities such as Wismar, Rostock, and Stralsund have also added Hanse to their names hoping to lure more tourists. Lübeck is unfazed by this. It is well-known that Lübeck is the Queen of the Hanse and a visit to these cities only confirms that notion even centuries after the Hanseatic League disbanded. Bremen and especially Hamburg are too large and modern to rekindle memories of the medieval league. The former East German cities are still a bit shabby—although the main tourist destinations are well-restored, two blocks off the center, the rot tends to prevail. Lübeck, in contrast, is in top condition no matter where in the old town you may wish to wander. It is clean and correct in a typical north German way. Three centuries on, Lübeck still is the undisputed Queen of the Hanse.

Usually, the best way to explore any city is on foot. Lübeck is certainly no exception to the rule. The city has a rich history and parts are not accessible by car at all. The tourist agency for Lübeck lists two city walks on their website…Read More

Usually, the best way to explore any city is on foot. Lübeck is certainly no exception to the rule. The city has a rich history and parts are not accessible by car at all.

The tourist agency for Lübeck lists two city walks on their website (http://www.luebeck-tourism.de/, go to Info Lübeck, then click Sights) that will take you past several of the highlights.

Lübeck is most famous for its seven church towers that characterize the skyline since the Middle Ages. But the city defense works and the city hall are also sights not to be missed.