One of the great joys of Ubud is the nightly array of cultural entertainment available for the traveler. Most dance performances depict scenes from the ancient Hindi script Ramayana and Mahabharata; and involve tales of good triumphing over evil. Dances performed for tourists are often…Read More

One of the great joys of Ubud is the nightly array of cultural entertainment available for the traveler. Most dance performances depict scenes from the ancient Hindi script Ramayana and Mahabharata; and involve tales of good triumphing over evil. Dances performed for tourists are often abbreviated and a typical performance will consist of two different dances held normally from 7.30pm-9.00pm. Tickets are normally about $5 per person and can be purchased from Ubud Tourist Information hut on the main street. You can also buy tickets from street vendors gaily clad in traditional finery at no extra cost. Venues for the performances vary according to the season or the performing troupe so remember to ask your concierge to double check with the Ubud Tourist Information for the most current performance schedule. We almost missed a performance due to some last minute changes and if you are staying in Bali for a short time, you would not be able to make the next one! Most hotels offer a free 2-way shuttle service to the performances.

The best known of all the dances, the Kecak is a special dance that is accompanied by ‘gamelan suara’; basically no instruments are played and the music is instead provided by a choir of a hundred men who sit and sing in a concentric circle with the center of the circle as a stage. The ‘stage’ is only lit with a single torch so taking good photographs will be a little difficult here even with fancy gadgetry. If you are lucky enough to be in Ubud during a full moon, there will be a special Kecak performance only held at the Agung Rai Museum of Art or ARMA. Tickets cost about $10-$15, about twice as much as the other nightly performance. There is also a dinner and show package for this special event but it is not cheap (about $30 per person). You will need to book early as places are very limited.

In the Horse Fire Trance dance, the ‘rider’ is lulled into a trance and runs almost amok on a bed of burning coconut husks. The burning coconuts husks will literally be flying at your feet especially if you are seated in the front rows so avoid putting your back packs or more importantly, your feet! on the floor.

Other performances that are not to be missed are the Legong, an extremely graceful and stylized dance; the Barong , a battle between a huge shaggy dog-lion and an evil witch and the ‘Wayang Kulit’ (Shadow Puppet) which is more a theater than a dance performance. As most of the stages are rather small, the key to getting good photographs or a good video is basically to secure a good seat right in front of all the bobbing heads. It is definitely worth it to get to the venue at least half an hour ahead to get the best seats in the house. Close

One morning we decided to try the rice paddy walk recommended in the Lonely Planet guide to Bali. The guidebook said that it would take about 1 hour, but as we stopped to take pictures and talk to people, we took slightly more than 2…Read More

One morning we decided to try the rice paddy walk recommended in the Lonely Planet guide to Bali. The guidebook said that it would take about 1 hour, but as we stopped to take pictures and talk to people, we took slightly more than 2 hours.

The route starts along a pathway behind one of the guesthouses off Jalan Raya. As there was no map, we were a bit confused as to which path to take (there were about three dirt paths), so we did our eeny, meeny, minny, mo and randomly selected one.

About 5 minutes down the path, we hear someone cheerfully call out to us. This brown Balinese man waved and asked us where we were going. When he realised it was to the rice paddies, he indicated another path parallel to the one we were on but divided by a drain and a wall. We were going to back track when he suddenly emerged and told us to follow him. We clamoured through the drain and a smallish hole in the wall to reach the right path. He was all smiles and offered to pick us coconut. This was the start of many cheerful greetings and offers of coconut.

After about a 5-minute walk, we reached the paddy fields. It was a bright clear day, and the sky was beautifully reflected in the pools of water in the terraced fields. There were ducks following each other in neat lines and farmers ploughing the land. The most common response to us was frantic waving and more offers of coconut.

About a third of the way through our journey, we encountered a young farmer/artist. He first struck up a conversation based on harvest times and farm work, but gradually moved on to his artwork and talked about us possibly making a purchase. We politely smiled and said "later" and went on to taking pictures of this rustic scene so far removed from our urban lives.

Twenty minutes later, I saw two traditionally dressed ladies with goods balanced on their head coming our way. The lady in front smiled and said, "Take picture! Take picture!" which I did. They stopped to look at my digital picture and spoke to me in Balinese. I didn’t understand till they switched to Bahasa Indonesia and said, "Ada wang? Ada duit?" (Any money?). I pretended to be angry, but they were smiling and laughing, so I gave them 1,000 rupish (about S$0.20) just to keep up the good humour.

About 1 hour and a half after we started, we reached the end of the fields and crossed a small bridge into the lush rainforest. The canopy blocked the sunlight, and it was dank and cool. We balanced on narrow concrete dividers to cross several small rivers and were thankful we didn’t fall in it. It was amazing to see how the locals can maneuver through this terrain so effortlessly, even when on a motorcycle laden with huge baskets of vegetables and other produce.

We finally emerged into civilisation at the end of Jalan Kijang, where we met out artist friend F. Malek. In his small shop he displays and sells his artwork and specialises in black-ink drawings (done with dots and short strokes) of rice fields and other traditional scenes. As we were hot and tired, we made the long walk down the road (which connects to Jalan Raya) in search of a good wayan for a well-deserved meal.

Highly recommended!

I may not be able to give you sufficient background information into the world of papermaking as this is my profession, and as such, I tend to take a lot of facts for granted. Papermaking operations that my company deals with are primitive by modern…Read More

I may not be able to give you sufficient background information into the world of papermaking as this is my profession, and as such, I tend to take a lot of facts for granted. Papermaking operations that my company deals with are primitive by modern standards, and we like them just that way. Paper is made from recycled or ecologically friendly materials, one at a time, by hand. Although the methodology is almost always the same, each papermaker adds his or her own personality to the papers they make.

This was my first visit to the facility which produces the papers we import from Bali. I was anxious to see how they process their materials, and if the conditions under which they worked paralleled those of their counterparts in other areas of the world. We met our hosts at their offices/showroom on Jalan Raya and from there, we took a ride of about 30 minutes into more rural areas. I could surmise from the frequent bounces of the vehicle that not much traffic comes through this area. When we stopped, there was a barnlike structure in the midst of a large green field; behind it were women at work. It had rained heavily that morning and we had to negotiate the wet mud on the ground without slipping. There was a freshly made stack of papers (called a post) sitting on the side, presumably awaiting inspection. Huge plastic bags of macerated newspaper were stacked on shelves undoubtedly a major component of the finished sheets we get here in the States and other parts of the world. We did not see anyone producing finished goods such as journals, greeting cards, etc.. and I assume that this work is parceled out to various artisans who make connection with the workshop.

The rear section was most interesting to me, as I got to watch women in various stages of papermaking, inserting flowers and native grasses into the paper while still wet. These papers are all the rage here for soon-to-be brides who have been ordering floral handmade papers for their wedding invitations. The women work 8 hours and receive the equivalent of US$2.00 per day. I was told by the owner that this is way above the wages a woman could ever hope to get if she chose to do anything else. This is not an easy job by any means: hands are in water constantly, whether it's lifting pulp to make new sheets from a vat, or manually wringing out old bedsheets which serve to separate wet sheets from each other. I don't know whether these folks receive any other benefits; there is no government sponsored insurance, medical plans, what we know as social security etc. and services are not free.

Banana leaf is a popular ingredient in the papers made here, as it is abundant and its use in the industry does not harm the environment. It is also a fairly strong ingredient which lends durability to the paper. There was a pile of long strands of leaves on the side; they are purposely left this way to speed the retting, or "rotting" process, so that they can be turned into pulp. Some of the ingredients added to the newspaper/banana mixture are turmeric, a popular spice, which turns the paper yellow; rose petals with and without the addition of gold glitter; pineapple, and coconut both abundantly available. The fruit itself is not used, but rather the leaves of the pineapple, and the coir (outer shell and hair) of the coconut. I discussed the use of dung with the papermakers; we had successfully marketed elephant dung from Africa and I was looking for an alternative source. The idea was taken on enthusiastically. Also, as there is a mastery in the art of batik dyeing here, I wanted to have some batik papers as well.

We were given some insight into the mindset of workers in Indonesia; on the whole, they do not like any disruption from what they "perceive" as the norm; any change is voted on by committee and it is not wise to go against the wishes of the workers. Very little here is recognized to be urgent, and that may have been one of the best lessons I learned. We also explored and were able to see a prototype of a bamboo paper rack which was made in all of three days. There is no doubt that there is superb craftsmanship that takes place on this island.

We hired bikes on Sunday morning. Before long, we had left the town and were in the countryside. Blue, tropical skies, swaying palm trees, the emerald green of the rice paddies – what can I say?   We passed through several villages, each set amongst the rice…Read More

We hired bikes on Sunday morning. Before long, we had left the town and were in the countryside. Blue, tropical skies, swaying palm trees, the emerald green of the rice paddies – what can I say?

We passed through several villages, each set amongst the rice fields. Children greeted us as we passed, people on motorcycles waved. The Balinese seemed genuinely cheerful and happy to see us.

We could hear the New Year celebrations at one temple soon after leaving Ubud and we arrived to find lines of motorcycles parked along the roads outside. Taking it in turns with the two sarongs we had between us, we went into the courtyards, where the people of three villages were nearing the end of a three-day celebration. More gamelan, naturally.

We made our way to a second temple that was altogether larger, and thronging with people. We were lent sarongs as we went in and asked not to go too close to the procession. We were soon lost within the crowds, and avoiding the procession as it wound its way through the courtyards proved futile.

The celebrations are altogether different from any religious ceremonies in the U.K. They appear to be quite relaxed, with most people doing their own thing in their own time. The whole community is involved, men and women, young and old, making it closely integrated into the way of life. Despite the friendliness of the people we met, I certainly felt like an intruder. What do these people think when a foreigner comes and watches them? I hope they don’t start to question this or any other part of their own culture.

Nowhere have I seen so much local culture, apparently untouched by the distractions of the modern world. Ubud is a mainstream tourist destination, but the Balinese way of life goes on apparently unaffected.   There were New Year celebrations last weekend, and the sound of gamelan could…Read More

Nowhere have I seen so much local culture, apparently untouched by the distractions of the modern world. Ubud is a mainstream tourist destination, but the Balinese way of life goes on apparently unaffected.

There were New Year celebrations last weekend, and the sound of gamelan could be heard morning, noon and night. Barong (half dog, half lion) dance troupes toured the streets, with the two men playing the beast accompanied by players carrying their instruments, and stopping to perform outside shops and houses along the way. In the temples, the players sat cross-legged with their instruments arranged in front of them. The sounds were rich and resonating, harsh, and tinny.

In the mornings, women in traditional costumes carried baskets full of offerings, often on their heads, and stopped to leave a little tray of flowers or food on statues, altars and on the ground. The flowers soon wilted in the heat, the food dried out.

Hilary suggested we went to a Kecak dance in the evening. I’ve been to several dance displays in South East Asia, all of them interesting if a little uninspiring. From the moment the Kecak started, I knew it was completely different. The actors performed scenes from the story of Rama and Sita, but it’s the chorus that gave the dance its power. Sitting cross-legged on the floor, over one hundred men form a circle around the actors, dressed in black and white checked sarongs, singing and moving with an energy and intensity that astonishes, and that defies any attempt to do it justice in words. If you ever get the chance to see it, do so. Don’t argue, just go.

I’ve always wanted to make my own silver jewellery but never had the chance to attend one of the courses in Singapore. Most courses were long-drawn affairs where you have to commit to going to a lesson a week for 3 months, and not very…Read More

I’ve always wanted to make my own silver jewellery but never had the chance to attend one of the courses in Singapore. Most courses were long-drawn affairs where you have to commit to going to a lesson a week for 3 months, and not very cheap, either.

In Ubud, I was delighted to find a little shop that would let you make your own jewellery in an afternoon or a morning. The shop, Studio Perak, is along Jln.Gautama, off Jalan Raya, and run by the friendly Ketut. (The Nirvana Studio that runs batik courses is just across from this shop.) As there were three of us that afternoon, his friend, Nyoman, who hails from a jewellery-making family in Celuk, was on hand to help.

First, we drew our designs. I decided to make a silver ring with my birthstone embedded in it. Then we chose the ring sizes and measured the silver for the ring. The next step was to heat it up with a blow torch and flatten it with a hammer. We then proceeded to the adding of imprints, design, and more soldering, and finally plunged the ring into a container of acid. After 10 minutes, we removed the ring and went on to bluffing and polishing.

It was a fun way to spend the afternoon and learn hands-on how to make jewellery. You don’t have to worry that you are not skillful, because Nyoman is always on hand to make the corrections. We were very pleased with the results and proudly showed them off when we returned.

The cost of the course, plus silver: 100,000 rupiah
Contact: 0361 945749
Website at www.studioperak.com

There are traditional dances in Ubud every night of the week. We were lucky to attend one near our guesthouse along Jalan Raya. You can check at tourist information for the dance times and venues. The cost was 50,000rp per person (about S$10). We arrived…Read More

There are traditional dances in Ubud every night of the week. We were lucky to attend one near our guesthouse along Jalan Raya. You can check at tourist information for the dance times and venues. The cost was 50,000rp per person (about S$10).

We arrived about 30 minutes before the 7:30pm performance and got good front-row seats in the open-air performance area in front of some temple-looking grounds. There was a cool breeze going, and it was magical watching the lighting of a fire in the dark starry night. Local ladies were on hand to sell drinks, bananas, and mangosteen.

The performance began with the Kechak, one of the best-known traditional Balinese dances that features a male choir instead of instruments. The male choir was mesmerising, with their unique voice movements imitating various characters and animals. Amidst this audio-visual backdrop, costumed dancers enacted a story from the Ramayana. The dancers’ movements were delicate and expressions so well emoted that I was really absorbed in the tale, although I didn’t understand a word. At a certain point, the Monkey King dancer would even mingle with the audience. Many people found it fun, but I felt it was creepy and just wanted him to go away.

After that wonderful performance, a huge bonfire made of burning coconut husks was built in the middle of the performance area. A young man emerged on a wooden horse, and he seemed to be in a trance. All of a sudden, he leapt into the fire and on the burning husks. He did it many times until the fire burned out. It was scary. Towards the end, two men came to hold down the man, and a priest came to sprinkle holy water on him. The trance was then broken, and then the man sat on the ground and nursed his head like he had a major migraine, his feet black with charcoal.

The whole performance took about an hour, but was one of the most intriguing performances I have ever seen. It is definitely something worth experiencing.

On the menu of blessings at the Tjampuhan Hotel is in-room massage service. When we were there it was $40/hour per person, including the jasmine tea at the end. I convinced Chuck to go for it. We had already been initiated when our guide took…Read More

On the menu of blessings at the Tjampuhan Hotel is in-room massage service. When we were there it was $40/hour per person, including the jasmine tea at the end. I convinced Chuck to go for it. We had already been initiated when our guide took us to a day spa in Sanur beach and we tasted 30 minutes of bliss for $10.00! This promised to take us to even greater heights and we eagerly anticipated the arrival of our masseuses.

Two women were sent to our room with platters in their hands, presumably holding all of the materials needed for this ritual. There is no room for modesty with Balinese massage so I was told to remove my sari and lay on my stomach. Chuck was instructed to do the same, except he didn't wear a sari. They had small earthenware jars that contained jasmine oil, and when they removed the lid, the scent started to tease my nostrils. They never pour the oil directly on your skin, but rather warm it in their hands and begin the magical rubbing and kneading. They start at the feet and work their way up, the motion always sweeping toward the heart. No a single square inch of skin is left out; I had sensations in places I didn't know existed.

Aroma is an essential part of this ritual, as it has a very soothing and calming effect on the nervous system. Thirty minutes into the session, you are to flip over so they can work on the front part. They do cover the pubic area with a small towel so they can work around it. I couldn't ask them where they learned this art, or how long they had been practicing it, as they did not speak English. I think Chuck and I exchanged a word or two at most during the entire session as he was as absorbed into his sensations. When they are finished, they give you an opportunity to throw something on, and then present you with a wonderful cup of warm jasmine tea. Both women were more than happy to oblige for a souvenir photo. Whatever you do when you're here, don't forego the massage; it's addictive.

Having returned from 4 nights, 4 days at the Mansion in Ubud, I have not stopped sighing over how much I miss this place.From the moment we arrived at night, the hotel staff welcomed us with delightful juice drinks and a nice cold face towel…Read More

Having returned from 4 nights, 4 days at the Mansion in Ubud, I have not stopped sighing over how much I miss this place.
From the moment we arrived at night, the hotel staff welcomed us with delightful juice drinks and a nice cold face towel to beat the humidity of night. Upon walking into the grand foyer, the classic art work and decor makes you realize you are in one special.

We stayed at the Jasmine Villa and a huge two bedroom suite which was steps away from the breakfast terrace, swimming pool and the amazing spa. There's nothing like waking up and just stepping into luxury at ur fingertips...

The staff was very accomodating and attentive, The food was delicious especially the nasi campur and the hotel's crispy duck..Something everyone must try...
The spa is reasonably priced and the spa manager, Arty will welcome you and help you decide on what type of treatment you so wonderfully deserve...

Overall, this place is a real gem of a hotel.. and only minutes from shopping disctrict...This is one place I really really want to go back to get away from the spring break environment of Kuta...Close

We had a good laugh at the Ubud Monkey Forest when we looked over and saw a monkey lounging with a bag of potato chips. He seemed to be enjoying himself while the other monkeys were getting the usual bananas handed out to them. This…Read More

We had a good laugh at the Ubud Monkey Forest when we looked over and saw a monkey lounging with a bag of potato chips. He seemed to be enjoying himself while the other monkeys were getting the usual bananas handed out to them. This monkey had hit the jackpot!!! Close