Even before the first sight, Hua Hin is intimidating. Among the Thai beach resorts it is unique because it began as a resort for Thais, specifically for Thai royalty. Even now it caters mainly to rich Thais. "Would the eternal pilgrim be able to afford…Read More

Even before the first sight, Hua Hin is intimidating. Among the Thai beach resorts it is unique because it began as a resort for Thais, specifically for Thai royalty. Even now it caters mainly to rich Thais. "Would the eternal pilgrim be able to afford drinking water there?" I kept asking myself for eons.

During my first trips in Southern Thailand, the sumptuous Klai Kangwon Palace, one of the main landmarks while crossing Hua Hin while traveling from Bangkok southwards on Highway 4, created the impression that the place was designed for royal budgets. In the end, visiting it was inevitable.

Location and Climate

Hua Hin is in the Malay Peninsula, almost 200km south of Bangkok and 25km south of Cha-Am, another popular beach resort. Such a location means it enjoys a tropical climate, hot and humid, with three seasons. The "hot and dry" season lasts from March to May, the "hot and rainy" season begins in June and ends in October, and the "cold (this is the overstament of the millennium) and dry" one runs from November to February.

History

Hua Hin's history goes all the way back to 1834AC, when migrating farmers from Phetchaburi settled there. The place became known as Ban Samoe Rieng (Rock Rows Village) or Ban Laem Hin (Stones Point Village). Faithful to its rural origins, even now it houses only about fifty thousand people.

For almost a century the place was of no consequence, until the state railway director built the Railway Hotel close to the beach in 1923; built in classical Thai style, it is called now the Sofitel Central Hua Hin.

Being the railways director a prince, the connection of the place with the royalty was done and soon, in 1928, the king built there a summer palace, naming it Klai Kangwon (Far from Worries); this is the official royal summer palace, and apparently the preferred residence of the king. The nearby beach was renamed Hua Hin, or Head Stone, and became the first beach resort in Thailand, much before Phuket and Samui.






Soon, an 18-hole golf course was added, and a plethora of Bangkok's rich and famous summer houses occupied a long strip of beach, practically reaching Cha-Am.

Shopping

Hua Hin is not a shopping location. However, it offers Khommaphat printed cotton, which is often used for Thai pillows, bags and fans. The presence of the rich and famous means colored gemstones (mainly sapphires and rubies, which are popular in Thailand), premium silk and other upmarket products are available.

Reaching Hua Hin

Air

Despite being close to Bangkok, Hua Hin features an airport, from where private charter flights can be booked.

Railway

Inexorably linked to Hua Hin's birth, the railway is still important; frequent trains from Hualampong Station in Bangkok reach the town. All the trains heading southwards reach it; the trip longs about four hours depending on the train class. A first class, air conditioned sleeper ticket costs 922 baht, while a third class fan one costs 234 baht.

Road

Highway 4, also known as Petchkasem Highway, is the main road connecting Bangkok with southern Thailand; it passes through Hua Hin. If traveling by car, take the Thonburi-Paktho Road, and after Samut Songkhram, turn left onto the highway.

Bus

Buses to Hua Hin depart from Bangkok's southern bus terminal, which has been recently moved further away into Thonburi - Bangkok's twin city across the Chao Praya River. Bus number four reaches the terminal from the Victory Monument in Bangkok; the trip costs a staggering thirty baht, as compared to the regular seven baht bus fare; to that, the transport to the Victory Monument should be added. From the bus terminal regular and VIP buses are available during the day and night, roughly every thirty minutes. The trip longs about three hours.

In Hua Hin there are two terminals. The direct buses from Bangkok stop on Petchakasem Road (the highway 4 stretch within Hua Hin) at the very heart of the downtown area. Other buses continuing to other destinations stop at a new terminal near the Market Village and Soi 96. Direct connections to Chiang Mai (in northern Thailand) and Khorat (northeastern Thailand) exist.Close

I arrived on the 4am train from Trang and so I saw Hua Hin at its most tranquil. I sat on the beach watching the sunrise until 7ish, then went to find a room. It was all very pleasant. Getting to Bangkok couldn't be easier. Air-conditioned…Read More

I arrived on the 4am train from Trang and so I saw Hua Hin at its most tranquil. I sat on the beach watching the sunrise until 7ish, then went to find a room. It was all very pleasant.

Getting to Bangkok couldn't be easier. Air-conditioned buses go from near the night market every half hour for the three-hour trip to the southern bus terminal. Tip: as you arrive in Bangkok, you pass the southern bus terminal on the other side of the road before turning back to come through the back streets. If you get off the bus before it leaves the main road and swings back to the station, you can get a taxi from there instead of wasting time and money going back out to the terminal.

Hua Hin is a microcosm of Bangkok for shopping. There are fake watches, beautiful silks, more handicrafts than you know what to do with, and more tailors than can possibly make a living. Remember they do this every day and you MUST bargain hard - it is easy…Read More

Hua Hin is a microcosm of Bangkok for shopping. There are fake watches, beautiful silks, more handicrafts than you know what to do with, and more tailors than can possibly make a living.

Remember they do this every day and you MUST bargain hard - it is easy to pay more than 10 times the fair price, but it is also easy to get a good deal with some patience, a lot of smiles, and some cultural savvy. If you haven't been in a bargaining society before look and ask prices a LOT, before you ever make an offer (once you make an offer it is expected that you really mean it and will buy if a satisfactory price is reached - it is really bad form to bargain, get your price and then not buy).

If you are going to be in Bangkok - wait to make your purchases there - you can generally beat the best price in Hua Hin by at least 20% in Bangkok (this does not apply to fixed price items like books).

We walked along the beach at Khao Takiab Bay, where we were staying, and there was a compound with elephants. We had ridden already in Chiang Mai, so we knew what to expect--it was fun, as you ride near the beach and then around near…Read More

We walked along the beach at Khao Takiab Bay, where we were staying, and there was a compound with elephants. We had ridden already in Chiang Mai, so we knew what to expect--it was fun, as you ride near the beach and then around near the fishing village.Close