Written by gorboduc on 18 Jan, 2004
Arriving at Mohonk Mountain House is a strange feeling, like arriving in another time as much as another place. It's not the journey to Mohonk that causes the sensation; the Hudson Valley is one of the most beautiful places in America, but you wouldn't know it…Read More
Arriving at Mohonk Mountain House is a strange feeling, like arriving in another time as much as another place.
It's not the journey to Mohonk that causes the sensation; the Hudson Valley is one of the most beautiful places in America, but you wouldn't know it on the New York Thruway between Albany and New Paltz. The ride through New Paltz isn't that auspicious, either--though that was partially due to the season. The gray sky crowded around the town (equal parts bohemian and shabby), blending into the no-longer-pretty banks of frozen snow that surrounded the shops and houses like ramparts.
Once you get through town and cross the Walkill River, however, things begin to change. A right turn just past the bridge takes you across the fields of the flood plain and towards the Shawangunk Ridge. By the time you get to the Mohonk gatehouse, most of the Thruway's bleakness is receding into memory, and as you wend your way up to the mountaintop and the Mountain House comes into view, ennui is replaced by amazement--you're looking at a Victorian castle, an amazing survival, carefully preserved and expanded by the Smiley family, who purchased the property in 1869.
Drive your car to the entrance and you are greeted by friendly valets and bellmen who take your car and your bags--the former to disappear until you call for it at checkout, the latter to reappear in your room.
A stay at Mohonk is nearly all-inclusive; the rate includes breakfast and lunch buffets, tea and cookies in the afternoon, and formal dinner in the evening, plus a variety of sports and programs for children and adults. In the winter you can snowshoe and cross-country ski on Mohonk's trails or ice skate in the Skating Pavilion, perched on a cliff overlooking Lake Mohonk. Equipment is provided free for guests.
Rates start at about $400 per couple per night, but Mohonk does run specials. Visit www.mohonk.com for more information. The savings can be considerable--I stayed using a midweek special that included a Victorian room with fireplace and a private balcony that overlooked the lake, dinner, breakfast, and tea, for $160, and Mohonk has several periods each year during which kids stay free with their parents.
All of this makes the resort very family-friendly. I was there several days before Christmas, and the hotel was filled with families--grandparents, parents, and children. Mohonk has special programs and activities for children, and also had a special informal kids-only buffet dinner in addition to the standard formal (jackets for men and no jeans allowed) dinner.
Mohonk's decor is warm and homey. Many of the common areas retain their original woodwork and fixtures. Comfy chairs invite you to curl up with a book or take in the views of the lake and the mountains. Fires burn in the downstairs lounges, ready to warm up chilled skiers and snow-tubers.
Rooms at Mohonk come in several varieties:
I stayed in a lake view Victorian room, decorated in warm beige with burgundy drapes, the original dark oak woodwork, and a fireplace. The room was very large; it contained both a full-size and a twin-size bed, with a sitting area at the far end. The furniture was oak, with an antique writing desk. The room would be prefect for a small family.
The bathroom was done in a Victorian style as well. I especially liked its cute curved window overlooking the lake.
Both the bedroom and bathroom were spotlessly clean and had clearly been recently redone.
The fireplace was supplied with wood, matches, and firestarters, so I had no trouble starting myself a cozy fire in the evening.
The only regret I have about my stay is that it was only one night--something I hope to rectify soon.