Written by Praskipark on 31 Mar, 2009
Trogir - where is it, you may well ask? This small port and town is situated in Central Dalmatia which is in Croatia and about 30 kilometres from Split where there is an International airport. The town is well located as it is on the…Read More
Trogir - where is it, you may well ask? This small port and town is situated in Central Dalmatia which is in Croatia and about 30 kilometres from Split where there is an International airport. The town is well located as it is on the famous Adriatic Highway which links this part of Croatia to the rest of Europe. The reason I came across this beautiful spot is because we were driving from Zagreb to Split and thought I would stop overnight and see what the town had to offer. I knew the town existed but originally wasn't going to visit because I thought it would be overcrowded with visitors as I had heard it was a very popular resort. But seeing that we were doing a grand tour of Croatia and the other Balkan countries in our very old and frail camper van I thought why not, its only another night, another place. I am so glad I did stop because Trogir is actually a mighty fine place. In fact, I would go as far to say that it is one of the most stunning places in this area. The town sits on its own island with bridges linking it to the mainland on one side and to the island of Ciovo on the other. As you walk around Trogir you immediately feel that you are in the Mediterranean with its shimmering knot of orange roofs and traditional stone buildings, amongst which lies one of Croatia's most remarkable cathedrals. The well preserved old town is perhaps the most unified in the whole country, a pedestrianised oasis where pages of history are peeled back with every step. Even the many tourists fail to diminish the appeal of this beautiful town. A visit to the surrounding area of Trogir is worthwhile just to see the lush verdant vegetation which consists of heavy laden fig trees, silvery grey-green olive trees and black carob trees. Lots of aromatic herbs grow wild and when the wind is blowing you are able to breathe in the wonderful scented aromas as they waft through the blue dappled skies. Not forgetting the small islets and coves, pebble beaches and rocky promintories. But the real beauty of the town is in its historic core which is perfectly preserved and shines with churches, palaces, monuments and art. In 1997 the town was included in the Unesco World Heritage list. The fortified town with its streets, squares and a myriad of fascinating buildings has kept its medieval structure and is an important asset to Croatia. There are hotels in Trogir but I didn't stay in any because we parked the camper in the car park and slept overnight there. However, we did eat in the Restoran Fontana which is part of a hotel situated in the old town. I was told by the locals that this is the best hotel and restaurant in the old town. The restaurant has a great atmosphere and you can sit outside on the terrace where you can absorb the buzzing atmosphere of the busy riva or watch the amazing sunsets casting amber shadows on luxurious yachts moored on the waterfront. The hotel and restaurant are open all year and the restaurant specialises in seafood. My favourite - prawns cooked in garlic butter, white wine and chillies. There are many beauty spots in Croatia and I very nearly dismissed Trogir because of the tourists. The town does get exceedingly busy with visitors and there is always a vibrant atmosphere. I suppose if you visited in September or October the town and area would be very calm and really stunning but then sometimes it is nice to have some atmosphere and Trogir certainly has that. Close
Written by mfs on 16 Mar, 2001
Mali Drvenik held many special surprises for us, and our day there will always be a very warm memory for us. Our guide book said the tiny island (permanent population of about 56) boasted terrific sand beaches – we were sold! Ferries to…Read More
Mali Drvenik held many special surprises for us, and our day there will always be a very warm memory for us. Our guide book said the tiny island (permanent population of about 56) boasted terrific sand beaches – we were sold! Ferries to the island leave infrequently – your best bet for a day trip is on a Thursday, when ferries depart from in front of the Hotel Concordia at 10a.m. and leave the island later that afternoon around 6:00. Check with the front desk at the Concordia to see if there are other ferry times – we were there in late September and the tourist season was pretty much over - there may be more ferries during the summer months. The ferry is shamefully inexpensive, just about $2 for the round trip, which is an hour each way. The ride itself is lovely – the ferry passes the Croatian coastline and affords beautiful views of olive orchards and hillsides carved with intricate patterns by miles of stone walls. The water is deep blue and freezing – very refreshing when you get splashed for sticking your head out too far from the boat's railing!
Our arrival on Mali Drvenik was a non-event. The ferry dropped us off at an small, empty pier and continued on to Veli Drvenik (the larger of the two islands). There wasn’t a soul in sight, and the tiny pier, which looked like someone’s personal fishing dock rather than a dock for a large ferry, was deserted and devoid of any signs or information. We had no idea where to go, so we started following some elderly Germans who trudged determinedly off the ferry and up the hill from the dock. It soon became clear to us that these folks were as clueless as we were, so we lost them and struck out on our own, following a path littered with huge rocks (hundreds of them!) that appeared to bisect the island. Our hope was that the fabled pristine sand beaches lay on the other side, since the views we had of the west side of the island didn’t yield any sand. We walked for over 45 minutes, awed by the hundreds of olive trees and acres of hip-high stone walls. (ps – "raw" olives taste really, really bad!.) Periodically we would come upon a small stone house, but we didn’t see a soul. Finally, we came upon the crest of a hill, and down below was a cove with water so blue it looked fake! We headed down the hill, and were greeted by the most gorgeous cove. There was no sand, but enormous smooth, flat-topped rocks lined the shore. We decided then and there to give up the sand beach (after all, we live at the beach in the US – we have sand in our house let alone on the beach) and set up camp on the smooth rocks. We spent the rest of the day marveling at our good fortune to come upon such a place. We swam and snorkeled in the icy blue water (we even found huge sea-urchin shells!). We basked in the sun and slept on the warm rocks. We ate our picnic lunch. We had the entire gorgeous, secluded cove all to ourselves - it was heaven.
Since we didn’t have a clear idea of exactly how to get back to the ferry dock, we packed up and headed back up the rocky road at about 4:30. After following our noses and our instinct for about 40 minutes, we ended up right where we wanted to be, albeit quite early for our 6:00 p.m. ferry. We were in luck again, though, as the one little store on the island was about to open for a brief spell (the store apparently opens only for about 20 minutes at a time, coinciding with the arrival and departure of the ferry). Several locals had already gathered in anticipation of getting supplies and/or beer, and we waited with them. When the store opened, we were served beers on the outside patio, and struck up conversations with the locals. We had a very nice chat with three gentlemen in particular, Anton, Ivan and Josip, who told us how they came to live on the tiny island and included us in their drinking circle of about 6 men. They spoke some German, we spoke some Croatian – we asked each other questions. It was a very memorable and fun experience.
Once the ferry arrived (slightly late – but who cares?) we bade our new friends goodbye and were treated to a most amazing, bright red sunset aboard the boat. We capped the night off with dinner at Top Baloon in Trogir – a perfect end to a truly perfect day.
Trogir is a wonderful, beautiful place. The old town is situated on a small island that lies between the mainland and the much larger island of Ciovo. Trogir is connected to Ciovo and the mainland by bridges, so it is easy to stroll…Read More
Trogir is a wonderful, beautiful place. The old town is situated on a small island that lies between the mainland and the much larger island of Ciovo. Trogir is connected to Ciovo and the mainland by bridges, so it is easy to stroll over to either place. Trogir is a tiny town - you can walk the whole town in 10 minutes, if you go slowly. Cars are only permitted on the periphery of the island, and the majority of "streets" are narrow, cobble-stoned passageways that wind between medieval buildings and renaissance-era palaces.
Trogir came into its own in the 1500s, and it is said that the town maintained it's cultural identity throughout the centuries in spite of a succession of foreign rulers. UNESCO proclaimed Trogir a World Heritage Site in 1997, and it is easy to see why. The medieval splendor of the city is untarnished, and daily modern life co-exists happily among the centuries-old architecture.
The town is sleepy during the day, but has a pretty vibrant nightlife. Locals come out at night to walk along the promenade, have ice cream, and see the big boats that dock come and go in the harbor. We felt that on the whole, Trogir had the best restaurants and nightlife than all of the cities we had been to in Croatia during our month-long trip. The food was consistently excellent, the people were good-natured and happy (perhaps joyful that they don't live in dour nearby Split), the town's serene beauty is incredible. Trogir seemed to the hangout of choice for hip young Croatians. We were there in late September and the tourist season was pretty much over, yet we were impressed with the number of 20- and 30-something Croatians that we encountered in restaurants and bars, especially on the weekend.
Trogir is also an excellent "base" for exploring other parts of Dalmatia. We are so glad that we took day trips to Split (only 1 half hour away) and opted to spend our nights in Trogir. Split is nice to visit for a few hours at a time, but we can get the rough city treatment at home, thank you! Trogir was like a breath of fresh air after a day in Split - we couldn't wait to get back to our little island! Trogir is also well-situated to explore surrounding islands.