Many times in the United States we hear about ranches. Usually this is heard watching a television western or movie. People think of John Wayne and Roy Rogers and other cowboy stars. However, in Mexico, the term "rancho" signifies a small village.…Read More

Many times in the United States we hear about ranches. Usually this is heard watching a television western or movie. People think of John Wayne and Roy Rogers and other cowboy stars. However, in Mexico, the term "rancho" signifies a small village. Most of these ranches are areas that would be considered slums in other countries. To the people who lve in the ranches, however, this is home.

Because of lack of financial resources, approximately 50% of all male adults in Loma de Flores have found their way to the United States to work. In this way, they are able to earn money for their families and to help build a better home for that family.

As I mentioned, in many instances, poverty is a way of life in the ranches. There is very little money, and few prospects of finding significant work to change the financial circumstances. This does not change the inner strength and spirit of the people, though. People in La Loma have a tremendous pride in themselves, their community, their schools, and their churches. I had the opportunity to visit schools of three differing levels in the village. Especially impressive was the elementary school. I observed the students in competiion in a national test of reading skills. The students from the local school won first place at five levels of twelve in the competition. The community was extremely pleased with this result.

It was amazing to watch mothers of the students come to the school at meal times to share a small lunch with their son or daughter. The group of college students that I help to chaperone worked to paint the walls and make repairs to some of the buildings at the school. When the people of the community saw us working, they came out and joined us.

On Palm Sunday, the entire community mobilized to march in a parade through the streets and into the local parish church. There was standing-room only inside the building during the local mass that day.

I believe that everyone needs to experience a trip to one of the ranches when visiting in the country of Mexico. In that way, perhaps, we can all come away with a different perspective for the struggles of other people.

I might as well start off with my favorite cantina in Guanajuato. The Clave Azul looks as if it were sculpted into one of the city’s meandering alleys. Last time I was there, a drunken mariachi serenaded the place with ranchera classics. The group was…Read More

I might as well start off with my favorite cantina in Guanajuato. The Clave Azul looks as if it were sculpted into one of the city’s meandering alleys. Last time I was there, a drunken mariachi serenaded the place with ranchera classics. The group was nearly propelled into the right pitch with everyone singing along. Because free botana snacks are served with each drink, the dining room practically floats with Sol beer, smooth tequila, and a homemade (tomato-based) Sangrita chaser.

Nearby, in the Plaza San Fernando, I had the pleasure of sipping Chiapas coffee as elderly couples danced an elegant danzón in the middle of the square. Sit long enough in one of the city’s infinite cafes and you’ll get to watch young trova artists cover Silvio Rodriguez ballads, stately provincial couples walk hand-in-hand to the Teatro Juarez, and raucous groups of young bards sing their way through a history of the city in one of the famous callejonada street tours.

If a map of Mexico is a Rorschach test, and you immediately scream Cancun… then some marketing official in the tourism bureau needs to get canned. Because nothing captures this country like Guanajuato (or perhaps other colonial gems like Zacatecas or Oaxaca), and not enough people have ever heard the name. Guanajuato has little of the crime and smog of Mexico City; none of the Cancun spring-breaking crowd; and a tradition of conservation, in the streets and buildings, that puts Guadalajara to shame.

Three highlights: (1) There are a number of old silver mines now open to the public in the high ridges above the city. Both for their extraordinary depth, and for the tales of colonial oppression whispering within, the mines are a must-see. (2) Climb up to the Pípila statute, either on foot or by funicular, and get a perfectly framed view of Guanajuato at sunset. (3) Don’t forget about the birthplace museum of Diego Rivera, with a number of great ever-changing exhibits on the upper floors. While there, check out the replica of his great historical mural Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park… if you missed it in Mexico City.

I’ll end this review on a somber note, with the Mummy Museum. Save for the yearly Cervantino Festival (I never made it), this museum on the western edge of Guanajuato is one of the city’s most talked about attractions. Some 111 mummies are on display, dug up in the first half of last century from a graveyard with overly preservative soil. The cadavers are naked, leathery, and, in my opinion, obscene. You can see the gunshot-victim mummy, the knife-wound mummy, the visibly pregnant mummy, and the mummy frozen in the act of biting her fist because she was buried alive.

The prevailing treatment of death in Mexico is described by some as detached and fatalistic, and by others as refreshingly joyous. But in either case, Mexicans impart a unique dignity on their deceased. And here’s the problem with Guanajuato’s Mummy Museum. It squeezes that dignity out of the displayed dead folk—what with their positioning behind the glass case, the nudity, and the way tourists smile and pose for pictures with them. It’s a money-making haunted house, not a museum. Your best bet is spending every last minute, and every last peso, in Guanajuato proper—and rest assured that, unlike the mummies, at least YOU can die happy.Close

Traveling throughout the state of Guanajuato was an eye-opening experience. Nestled between the larger cities were the small villages of working-class people called "ranchos." Life in these villages is difficult for the people. The roads are not paved, there is trash thrown…Read More

Traveling throughout the state of Guanajuato was an eye-opening experience. Nestled between the larger cities were the small villages of working-class people called "ranchos." Life in these villages is difficult for the people. The roads are not paved, there is trash thrown on the streets, buildings that are no longer in use are abandoned and decaying, and there is an unpleasant odor in the air due to the sewage that trickles into the nearby river. Most of the men in the city have made their way to the United States or Canada in order to work and earn some money for their families. Those who remain often work six days per week for twelve hours per day, making minimum wage. Sixty percent of the daily nutrition is derived from the tortillas that are eaten with the meals. Children are smaller in stature and become ill more frequently than in many other countries. Educational research shows that the majority of students achieve at a lower rate than students in other countries. Thus is life on the ranch.

However, there are many positive aspects to life for the people of San Jose de Marañon. Family life is the strongpoint of the community. People within the community are aware of all that occurs within their area of the town. Because everyone is poor, crime is virtually non-existent. Most people who pass through the community become life-long friends.

For me, the experience of spending of few days of my time in the ranch of San Jose de Marañon was an experience that I will never forget. Meeting and spending quality time some of the local people such as Gordo, Lucho, Chaparita, and others gave me a greater understanding for the struggles that others work to overcome. From the experience, I come away with more gratitude for what I have and a greater desire to help others.

Other than taking the opportunity to visit within the ranch, there are no tourist sites for a traveler. However, we can educate ourselves to the needs of others by taking the time to listen and find out more about how they live.

As I traveled through the state of Guanajuato, I encountered several interesting mid-sized cities (many of them from the colonial times). One of these towns was Salamanca. Perhaps the aspect of the city that stands out most in my mind is the large…Read More

As I traveled through the state of Guanajuato, I encountered several interesting mid-sized cities (many of them from the colonial times). One of these towns was Salamanca. Perhaps the aspect of the city that stands out most in my mind is the large number of churches and the religious heritage of the city.

The cathedral in Salamanca was begun in the mid-16th century. Portions of the original building remain, but a fire in the 1880s burned a large portion of the cathedral. The present building was finished in 1904 and still is one of the most beautiful sites in the entire city. The murals on the walls and in the cupola of the dome match any in the world in their splendor. One of the special features of the church is its famous "Black Christ." Originally a wooden icon in a lighter-colored material, the fire darkened and stained the image. Even after extensive restoration, the image of the Christ remained black in color. To my knowledge, this is the only one colored as such in existence. Masses are held three times daily at this edifice.

Not only is the Catholic Church important in Salamanca, but so is the Protestant faith... especially the Methodist Church. Salamanca is the location in all of Mexico for the first convert from Catholicism to Methodism. In fact, the original church built by that first convert still stands and holds weekly services. I was able to meet the great-grandson of this convert, who was once a Catholic priest.

I attended Mass in the cathedral and Sunday morning service at the Methodist church during my stay. Also, I noticed several other churches, both Catholic parishes and Protestant churches.

There are at least four major pageants and festivals honoring different facets of the religious calendar that are held annually in the city. I missed one of these because I did not have sufficient time during my stay.

Walking through the city gives the traveler a sense of awe. The people are friendly and welcome visitors. I can only hope that I can soon return.

The language school located at the university was a lot of fun. Not only were the classes really great, but I had the chance to meet other exchange students from all over the world. I had classes in grammar, conversation, and salsa dancing! They also…Read More

The language school located at the university was a lot of fun. Not only were the classes really great, but I had the chance to meet other exchange students from all over the world. I had classes in grammar, conversation, and salsa dancing! They also offer classes in literature. In my classes, there were other people from not only the United States, but Germany, Austria, Slovakia, Korea, and tons of other places. The age range was also amazing -- I was the youngest, a high school student, and there were also people my grandparents’ age. There are also English classes you can help out in and meet Mexican students. All in all, the classes are a lot of fun, the teachers are fantastic, and I learned a lot of Spanish.Close

Ex-hacienda de San Gabriel de Barrera This hacienda on the edge of town is a lovely escape from the city. The hacienda has been restored to its silver-baron era splendor. Don’t miss the painting of Mary’s special squirting talents. The extensive grounds…Read More

Ex-hacienda de San Gabriel de Barrera

This hacienda on the edge of town is a lovely escape from the city. The hacienda has been restored to its silver-baron era splendor. Don’t miss the painting of Mary’s special squirting talents.

The extensive grounds are divided off into theme gardens. Some of the gardens are tucked away behind high walls, giving off a Secret Garden kind of vibe. There’s also a café on the grounds, and an art-restoration workshop.

The Jardin is the social hub of Guanajuato. It is lined with outdoor cafes, and has a high population density of mariachi bands. You could very well be serenaded by men wearing rooster shirts. The…Read More

The Jardin is the social hub of Guanajuato. It is lined with outdoor cafes, and has a high population density of mariachi bands. You could very well be serenaded by men wearing rooster shirts.

The beautifully gaudy Teatro Juarez is just south of the Jardin. It hosts frequent concerts and performances. Even if there is not a performance going on, go inside and check out the lavish interior. The steps in front of the theatre provide an excellent vantage point for people watching.